On The Way

Last night In Marsden Cove, Whangarei, New Zealand....much of the fleet has already headed out
Last night In Marsden Cove….most of the fleet having already sailed out

How felicitous was it to arrive in Fiji after a 12 day offshore sailing passage and learn that the topic for this week’s photo challenge is ‘On The Way’? The premise of the challenge is that the ‘in-between moments can be just as memorable as grand finales’

Exiting Marsden Cove
Exiting Marsden Cove

Well that premise certainly held true for the crew of Amandla en route to Fiji.

After a lively sail from Gulf Harbor,  we had planned to relax for a few days in Marsden Cove before checking out of New Zealand. But the weather had other ideas and so we departed 24 hours after arriving.

Our Last Sunset In New Zealand
Our Last Sunset In New Zealand

The first few days out were cold with light winds and cross seas but it still felt fabulous to be on passage again.  The Captain held up remarkably well.  You’d never have known that he’d had liver surgery 47 days before this passage. He was charting a course, hoisting (and trimming) sails, cooking yummy meals, standing watch, doing boat maintenance and ‘barking orders’ as if the surgery had never occurred.  On Day 2, he reeled in his first catch. A small tuna, but enough for three yummy Poke Bowls.

Catch of the day .... enough for three Poke Bowls
Catch Of The Day

We were fully into the rhythm of a passage by Day 3 and started to enjoy blue skies and a bit of warmth by Day 4.  Unfortunately, the winds COMPLETELY died and we had to do a bit of motor sailing on Day 5 and 6.

I missed this beautiful sunrise because I headed straight to bed after my 0400 - 0600 watch  Image Courtesy The Captain
Sunrise Underway
Image Courtesy The Captain

But we enjoyed warm indoor showers courtesy of the engine and the boys managed to tempt a Mahi Mahi onto our lure while motoring along.

Captain Selfie With Mahi Mahi
Captain Selfie With Mahi Mahi

In the middle of Day 6, near the end of my 0400 to 0600 watch, I was greeted with the welcome site of South Minerva Reef light on Amandla’s port and the beginnings of a sunrise on her starbord side.  So excited!

South Minerva Reef Light To Port Sunrise To Starbord
South Minerva Reef Light To Port Sunrise To Starbord

We arrived at the North Minerva Reef pass a few hours later (giving me enough time to enjoy a nap after my watch).

A Boat Entering North Minerva Reef Pass
A sailboat entering North Minerva Reef pass in front of Amandla

North Minerva is a circular reef in the middle of the South Pacific that is approximately  2.5 miles around with one entry.  It’s a volcano that never made it to the surface, but just a few tenths of feet below.

Walking North Minerva Reef (1)
Walking North Minerva Reef (1)

Eventually, the caldera collapsed forming a lagoon and a reef grew along its rim.

The Captain And Steve On Minerva Reef
The Captain And Steve On Minerva Reef

Due to up-thrust of the earths’ crust, the reef has been pushed near enough to the water line enough to be exposed at low-tide.

Walking North Minerva Reef (2)
Walking North Minerva Reef (2)

Unfortunately, on this visit, low-tide occurred near sunrise and sunset, limiting our time walking the reef.  (If you want to get a full taste of how amazing this place can be, check out the photos from our November 2014 visit here).

While daytime walking of the reef was limited, we managed to find other ways to entertain ourselves.

Friends And Kite Surfers
Watching Kite Surfers with our friend Phil from Silhouette

We visited with old friends and made a few new ones and on the second evening, The Captain and Steve set out with a few other yachties in search of lobsters.  The boys managed to bring home two.

Return From The Hunt
Return From The Hunt

On Day 8, just when we were starting to get comfortable, the winds clocked south (earlier than expected) so we departed Minerva and continued on toward Fiji.

Far enough North to enjoy a sunrise at the end of my 0400 - 0600 watch
Far enough North to enjoy a sunrise at the end of my 0400 – 0600 watch

The remainder of the trip was quite lovely with beautiful skies and dolphins to welcome us to Fiji waters.

Dolphin!
Dolphin!

We spotted our first Fijian island, Matuku, on Day 10 of the passage.  We left her to starboard and were treated to a purple sky at nightfall.

Land Ho! Matuka At Sunset On A Cloudy Day Actual Color - Not Photoshopped
Land Ho! Matuka At Sunset On A Cloudy Day
Actual Color – No Filters

On Day 11, we continued on to Savusavu, and arrived after sundown, dropping anchor near to the commercial wharf.  We were up early on Day 12 and headed to the Corpa Shed Marina to check in with Customs, Immigration, and Biosecurity.

Pulling Into Savusavu
Pulling Into Corpa Shed Marina

I entertained myself by photographing a local fisherman while waiting for the officials to arrive for clearance.

Fisherman In The Anchorage
Admiring a local fisherman  while waiting for clearance

The officials were thorough but efficient and completed the clearance a few hours after our arrival on the ‘Q’ dock.

Hoisting The Courtesy Flag After Clearing Into Fiji
Hoisting The Courtesy Flag After Clearing Into Fiji

It is great to be back in the tropics!

69 comments On The Way

Paula says:

I bet. One can’t look at your photos without getting the travel itch. There are some breathtaking landscapes and captures in this post, but everything posted is so beautiful.

You are lovely to say so Paula! I am thrilled to hear you liked the images 🙂

Margo says:

Great job on documenting the trip, Lisa. Photos are fantastic! Glad you had an enjoyable trip. Enjoy Fiji. Steve said it is beautiful there.
Margo

Thank you Margo! So wonderful to hear from you 1st thing this morning. We are thinking of kidnapping Steve…but you can secure his freedom by coming to Fiji for a visit :-).

Incredible photos! Even of the fish! 😉 I was just looking for a new post from you last night, too! So interesting about the tide pools being thrust up due to volcano activity! Looking forward to more!

😉 Thank you Terri! I thought of you and Leisure Thursdays when we saw the kite surfer enjoying a ride in Minerva Reef.

TRB says:

Spectacular…just spectacular.

You are very kind Mr. TRB! It was a fantastic trip! Can’t wait to go exploring 🙂

Wonderful photos Lisa!

🙂 I am so pleased you think so Kathy!

Gorgeous pics! I am jealous. I have a major weakness for rainbow images and once again you have a great rainbow image.

We are blessed with so many gorgeous rainbows out on the Ocean – a little gift from Mother Nature to make up for some of the crap weather she throws our way occasionally :-). Thank you so much for your compliment.

So glad to hear you are doing well and that you made it safely to Fiji. Been missing you in the blogosphere but it looks like you’ve had such wonderful adventures away from the interweb. 🙂
Beautiful pictures, as usual, Lisa. Absolutely loved looking at the pictures of the reef and I agree with Terri–I never thought I’d be thrilled to view pictures of recently caught fish, but even those were fun, too. I’ve never seen what Mahi Mahi actually looks like (though I’ve eaten it plenty), so I particularly enjoyed that!

It is nice to be missed Britta. I’ve missed you too! It has been taking me longer than I’d like to reconnect to the world. We are sailing right now to Namena for a few days of snorkeling and I am hopeful we will have connection so I can catch up! I hope (and imagine) that you are enjoying post-College life. Thank you for kindness.

badfish says:

Still being lucky, I see? Such gorgeous photos…all of them. Love the lobsters.

You are very, very kind to say so Mr. Badfish! The lobsters were incredibly yummy! And yes, I am still a lucky girl. Sailing to Namena right now for a snorkel.

badfish says:

Fiji? What’s the weather like there this time of year. You are making me want to hop a flight and hang out in a bungalow over water and wait for you guys to sail in with lobster. Did you guys go to Easter Island?

The weather varies by location (some places have more rain than others) but generally sunny, warm and humid with little variation throughout the year. I find it more comfortable here than in French Polynesia (not as hot or humid). You DEFINITELY want to visit! Friendly people, reasonable prices, and totally gorgeous on land and sea. So far, I am in love with the place.

We did not sail to Easter Island. Weather patterns made it impossible when we crossed from The Galapagos to French Polynesia in 2013. Plus, the anchorage is not sheltered, the weather changes a lot, and local regulations require than someone be aboard the yacht at all times while in local waters (which is a challenge when there are only two on board). Most yachties prefer to sail to French Polynesia and then fly to Easter Island for a visit. I have not yet had the pleasure, but someday…..

badfish says:

Yeah, I’m feeling like truly sorry for you right about now. Only two onboard. Galapagos to Tahiti. Are you traveling the world for years? I always thought that would be cool. But wouldn’t trust myself to captain a sailboat…no roadside fixit shops, no AAA to bring you gas or give you a tow.

🙂 I am traveling the world for years with some breaks in between to replenish the ‘cruising kitty’. Keeping a boat operational is one of the most challenging aspects of the cruising life, especially when traveling in remote places. My secret… I travel as crew on other people’s boats Captained by a knowledgable skipper that is adept at fixing things.

I particularly like Sunrise Underway, the sailboat passing in front on Amadla and the fisherman sitting. Glad you guys have had mostly good sailing and are seeing such amazing things.

Ahoy there Karen! Thank you for your compliments. And a huge congratulations to Thurmanovich Photography on the One Year Anniversary of On Your Doorstep. I look forward to being a part of it for many years to come!

Wonderful to read, sounds like a great trip!

🙂 It was great fun. I am delighted to know that you enjoyed the post!

Esther says:

Gorgeous pictures Lisa and glad to see you go their safe and sound!

Cheers to you Esther. I think that you need to come join me in Fiji with your camera and your paints. You would be completely inspired here. Miss you. Work less 🙂

lexklein says:

Would you believe I actually thought of you when they posted the photo theme this week? I wondered how you were faring and thought an “on the way” theme would be perfect for you if you happened to be anywhere to see it! Beautiful photos with a real sense of serenity.

Well aren’t you lovely to have thought of me Lexie! I am truly pleased that you think the photos are beautiful. And the trip was serene so I am glad that feeling came through in the photos.

I love your pics. They took my breath away and transformed into the sea for a little while. Then I awoke and realized I was at my kitchen table. Oh to be on vacation. Thanks for sharing, Lisa.

What a lovely compliment Eva. Nice to know that my images were able to transform your kitchen into a sailboat on the open ocean, even if only for a moment.

PS I am so very sorry to hear that your Aunt Rosa passed away but glad to know you created so many beautiful memories together during her lifetime.

Pretty amazing! your photos are stunning and I can’t imagine sailing around the world like you are doing! Unbelievable!

You are wonderful to say so Nicole! I am very fortunate to be able to follow my dreams.

Liesbet says:

I”m glad that you made it to Fiji safely and happily! Enjoy the tropical islands and the nice climate. Missing you… xxx

Thank you Liesbet. So far, Fiji is AMAZING! Missing you and Mark as well.

Great post!

Thank you Josie! Looking forward to seeing your family head out to sea #2MTG

Amazing photos Lisa I’ve really enjoyed looking through them and reading about your adventures. Sounds like you are enjoying Fiji. Wishing you safe and happy travels

Fiji rocks! Thank you so much for your compliments and well wishes Rosemary.

Kirsten says:

Hi Lisa! Happy to hear you and the Captain made it safely.

We are glad to be here Kirsten! Generally had fair winds….but with cross seas which made it a bit of a bumpy ride. I’ll be sending more information your way via email soon!

So fascinating… 🙂

Well thank you Drake! Glad you think so!

Amazing photographs as usual Lisa. The trip is not in the ending but in getting there and this part of your journey looks amazing.

You are lovely Mark. Thank you! And Fiji is AMAZING so far. BTW, I managed to download your ‘Guns on Boats’ post as we were pulling out of Marsden Cove and laughed all the way to Fiji! I totally agree with your wisdom and love your humor as always.

Amy says:

What a fascinating trip! Great photos here, Lisa! 🙂

I am glad you enjoyed the photos Amy! Thank you so much!

themofman says:

“. . . the ‘in-between moments can be just as memorable as grand finales’.”

Absolutely true, and I love your great adventure shots.

Thank you Allan! I have to say that your entry for this week’s challenges was my favorite!

themofman says:

Very much appreciated.

Hi Lisa, It is great to have you back on the blogosphere. You have been missed.
And then you return….makes us happy and bring awe inspiring photos. These photos are exceptional without exception. These sunrise and sunsets are not from this world. The colors are amazing. Purple sky, finesse, lobsters. fiends, kite surf..and the Minerva reef! What a treat! Thank you so much.

Believe it or not, even though we’ve never met in person, I’ve missed you as well. I love your images, insights, and endless support. Its always a treat to hear from you and I hope to meet you face-to-face some day. In the meantime, thank you so much for your wonderful, complimentary feedback. I look forward to hanging out here with you more. And really, I am still playing catch up given intermittent Internet access depending upon where we travel. Best!

I’m overwhelmed and grateful for your comment. Lisa. This virtual world has been too kind to me, by letting me meet such a special person like you. I feel like you’re an old friend. Some day we will meet face-to-face, I’m sure, either in between your travels or in any of our countries.
Intermittent internet access is not helpful at all, but we have patience to wait for your beautiful narrative and photos.
Take good care and all the best.
Lucilexx

These are really beautiful pictures!!

Very nice of you to say so Oscar! Thanks

The photos are incredible especially the purple near the Fijian Islands.

Thank you so much Marty! I am so glad you liked them.

Wow, wow, wow, what an exciting adventure!!

Thank you 😉 It is great fun!

prior says:

Lisa – the assortment of photos here was a visual treat – the blue in the dolphin one, the land ho purple (with no filter too)- and the variances… the large version of the last sunset in NZ was an unexpected delight – I accidentally clicked on the larger render of it – and I am glad I did because the full size really made the photo come to life even more.

Oh, and the “sailboat entering North Minerva Reef” reminds me of a painting – or would be a a good one to paint! 🙂

You never fail to delight me with your ‘read’ of my posts Yvette. I am so pleased you liked the images. I wish I had a talent for painting. Would love to paint the sailboat entering North Minerva (and so many other sights I have seen along the way).

prior says:

well painting is something to look forward to later (you know – if you ever decide to dock on dry ground again) but anyone can learn to paint – how it unfolds for each of us is a different story – and then our artist side mixes with what we convey thru our media – and I think you will find you have a lot more skill than you think (most people do not realize that painting is very doable and all that – and again – not everyone enjoys it and not everyone finds consumed with it – or has certain extra gifts with it – but I think in years to come you might find that you take it up and make some pieces you like… I guess we shall see – but right now enjoy the “sea” and those photos will be there) 🙂

So glad to share the excitement with you! The photos are beyond fabulous 🙂 Having a ‘wish I was there’ moment 🙂

You are very kind Jo. Delighted to be traveling with you virtually. I am hoping to find a good ‘Monday Walk’ somewhere in Fiji to share with you soon….

dunelight says:

What an amazing experience. Thanks for sharing. 😀

You are most welcome :-). Thank you for sailing with the passage with me virtually!

Wow, even though your walking time was limited you still got some fab shots, love that one of the beach with the reflection of the sky, just beautiful!

Minerva Reef is such a magical place. Glad to know that its beauty came through in the photos! Thanks you Laura.

Stunning photos!

I am delighted by your compliment. Thank you so much.

BTW – I am just starting Jack’s Wager. Thanks for the tip

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