The Yasawas

Rush Hour Yasawas
Rush Hour Yasawas

The Captain, cousin Mary Lou and I set out for The Yasawas after a two-day, rain soaked stop over in the Denarau anchorage.  Our first stop was in Yalobi Village, Waya.

Donning sulus, we joined another boat (SY Tangaroa) that had recently arrived and headed to shore, kava in hand, for Sevusevu with the Village Chief.

The Chief's Grandaughter
The Chief’s Granddaughter

Following the ceremony, The Chief indicated that the ‘women were waiting for us.’ We headed outside, and seemingly every woman in the village had something on offer (jewelry, shells, cloth, woven mats, carvings) with enough available to supply a cruise ship.   I do not do well in these situations and felt compelled to buy something from every vendor. The Captain intervened when I was half way through the marketplace. I need to toughen up.

The Yasawas - August 2015 - Yalobi Village Vendor

We returned to Amandla, and finding the anchorage a bit rolly, lifted anchor and headed to the eastern side of the bay. Unfortunately, we were now anchored off a different village (Namara).  Our ‘drive-by’ Sevusevu in Yalobi Village did not offer us respite here, so we remained on-board and left at sun up the next morning.

Village Girl
Fiji’s Future

Our next stop was the southwest side of Naviti where a school of manta rays are said to make a visit with each high tide. We’d arrived too late to snorkel so we joined a few other boats in the anchorage for a sundowner on the beach.

Starfish
Starfish

Next morning, we did a drift snorkel but failed to see any manta rays. As a consolation, we were treated to blue starfish and a few schools of small tropical fish.   Early next morning, it was anchors up again.

Ship Along The Way
Ship Along The Way

After a four-hour sail, we arrived in the Nanuya Island anchorage, home of the famous ‘Blue Lagoon’. The lagoon is beautiful and the adjacent to the yacht friendly Nanuaya Island Resort, so we decided to stay for a few days.

Creature From The Blue Lagoon
Creature From The Blue Lagoon

We enjoyed some good snorkeling off Savuti Point and were able to purchase fresh produce from farmers that were selling it ‘farm-to-boat’ in the anchorage.

Farm To Boat
Farm To Boat

Initially, we had planned to sail from Nanuya back to Denarau so cousin Mary Lou could catch her flight home. But with air and ferry transportation readily available in the Yasawas, we decided to (sadly) disembark Mary Lou in Nanuya at the end of her visit.

Amandla And The Puddle Jumper Image Courtesy The Captain
Amandla And The Puddle Jumper
Image Courtesy The Captain

From Nanuya, we headed to Yasawa Island, making it as far north as Namataya Bay, an off the beaten track, comfortable anchorage.   We snorkeled off nearby Vawa Island and met the grounds keepers. In the evening, we enjoyed a few rounds of Mexican Train with our friends Nona and Steve from SY Corvidae.

Sunset
Sunset

The next morning, The Captain and Nona took a provisions package including sugar, rice and canned goods to the very appreciative Vawa Island grounds keepers.  The Captain and I then started our return sail southward, stopping first in a good anchorage off Somosomo Bay, just west of Narewa Point.

The following morning, we took the dinghy to shore at what we thought was low tide and set out on a mile long hike to the eastern side of the island in search of a WWII plan wreck that could be snorkeled.

The Captain With Snorkel Gear
The Captain With Our Snorkel Gear

It wasn’t easy to locate the wreck, but some local villagers who were out on the reef harvesting sea grapes told us we could find it next to a mooring buoy in the center of the lagoon.

WWII Plane Wreck Cockpit Front
WWII Plane Wreck Cockpit Front

The water was very murky so I couldn’t see it until I was directly above it

WWII Wreck - Tail Section
WWII Wreck – Tail Section

When we returned to the beach at Narewa Point, we found out that now, it was truly low tide and our dinghy was about 20 meters from the water on the beach. We had to remove the engine so that the dinghy was light enough to drag to sea and then carry the engine to it.

Low Tide Image Courtesy The Captain
Low Tide
Image Courtesy The Captain

Boating 101 should have given us enough sense not to leave the dinghy where we did when we did.  But it wasn’t too serious and we were back on-board Amandla in no time and sailing back to Naviti for a second chance at finding manta rays.

Manta Rays
Manta Rays

This time, we were lucky.  At least I was. The Captain, who had snorkeled previously with giant manta rays in the Galapagos was kind enough to drive the dinghy and spot mantas while I snorkeled and snapped.

Manta Ray Lead By Tropical Fish
Manta Ray Lead By Tropical Fish

The images didn’t turn out so great given my nascent photography skills and the uncooperative light (high tide was at 0700 hours and the skies were overcast).   Still, I loved the experience.

Manta Feeding On Plankton
Manta Feeding On Plankton

After the snorkel, we sailed back to Denarau where we will be resident for the next couple of weeks having a new bimini built.  The old one has stood up to all kinds of weather over the past 10 years.  Hoping the new one is just as good!

69 comments The Yasawas

Lisa I read through your post in awe. In awe of your lifestyle, in awe of your experience, in awe of your photos. I am left speechless and that is a most unusual state for me.

? It is I who am silenced Sue! Given how awesome your own adventures are and how beautifully you share them with us, I was absolutely thrilled by your compliment ?

You warm my heart Lisa.

Hi Lisa. Have missed your photos and adventures. But you always come back with the most amazing ones which give me so much inspiration, so I ‘forgive’ you for not posting everyday or having an online webcam so we follow you in real time!
What’s that for privacy? Kidding you!!
It’s rare not to see the people of Fidji smiling! Amazing!! The problem might be to say no to them when shopping, right? Luckily the captain helped you. I’d be like you.
The snorkeling adventure delivered stunning photos. This manta ray is so gorgeous! It must be big. The blue lagoon shot is fab.
I’m looking forward to more stories and shots of paradise! Have a lovely week!
Cheers!

Yes it is impossible for me to say ‘no’ to the beautiful people of Fiji! Thank goodness for The Captain or I’d be broke.

The mantas were big and very majestic but the ones that The Captain swam with in Galapagos were twice the size.

Thank you for your continued encouragement Lucile. Better than a webcam, I wish you would come for a visit! What an adventure we’d have. I will be in Australia from November to May and I know you have a few other friends there ?. Think about it.

Wow, Lisa, going for a visit would be fantastic.
Indeed, I have a few Aussie friends and we could all meet there.
I will seriously think about it! Yay.
?

? Yes!

Debbie says:

Hey Lucille, we meet in all the right places!! 🙂
Are you still considering going to Australia?
I will be home for Xmas 🙂
Pop on over – we can have a Teaparty 🙂 xoxo

Now that would be a wonderful Xmas gift ???

Hey you! We seem to have good taste with our friends! That’s why we meet.
I’m not yet sure if I can go because of work.
I’d love to, but mainly my husband is a bit tied up with work.
Thanks for thinking of that idea. I’d love to meet up. We’ll do that one day!
Xoxo

I loved it when you said,”I am not good in these situations.” I can sympathize–neither am I. I don’t want to slight anyone.
I love Mantas. When they swim it looks like a dance.Maybe someone should do a ballet or modern dance called Manta??

Mantas are the perfect inspiration for a ballet! Their underwater ‘dance’ is sublime. And thank goodness for The Captain or I’d be broke ?.

The islands look very dry. Is it also dry around Denarau?

El Niño has been wreaking havoc here. The majority of Fiji had below average rainfall in July according to the Fiji Met Service with most of western Viti Levu and the Yasawas recording less than half of normal rainfall. The drought seems to have continued in August into September. We are still getting ‘water conservation’ warnings in Denarau.

Oh dear! 🙁

I know! Not good

steve says:

Lisa,
what a great write-up and as always the picture are outstanding.

You are very kind to say Steve! Hope you are feeling better…there is still room for one crew to Australia ?

Hacky says:

yes – really great!!

Am glad you think so! Do you know that the first time I ever snorkeled was with you in Bermuda? I was TERRIFIED! I don’t think I went more than 5 feet from the boat. Have come along way since then. And the first time I sailed anything larger than a dinghy was with you in NYC. Remember how the land seemed to be moving after that first day of sailing classes? Hope you are well

Wow!!

Well thank you so much! You are lovely to say ?

Lisa, I have one expressive word for you ‘WOW’. You are awesome!

It is you who are awesome for saying so Eva. Thank you so much for your kindness!

lexklein says:

The Fiji’s Future girl I want to squeeze, she’s so adorable. Shipwrecks hit me the opposite way; I find them freaky – do you? I guess they grow things on them that are of interest to snorkelers and divers, but the tail photo looks like a scary yawning mouth covered with frightful diseases! Haha – I’m off on a negative comment binge here and you know I don’t mean that at all! The ship along the way is stunning, as are the fish, the rays, the water, the people, the starfish (have I compensated yet for the shipwreck photo comment?! …)

You know, the wreck kind of freaked me out too. The Captain stayed ashore (also harvesting sea grapes) and so I snorkeled the wreck by myself. When I was above it, I thought for a moment of an arm reaching up from below to grab me. Guess I’ve seen one too many horror movies. Then I thought of the poor men that might have lost there lives there and felt very sad. Anyhow, enough maudlin from me. Really, thank you for all your words, kind and honest. It’s always a pleasure to hear from you ?

Wow, Lisa, the trip sounds amazing and the photos? No words. Loved the blue sea star, then OMG! the mantaray feeding. What a life you live! The colors of the water is such an amazing aqua blue!

? Thank you Terri. How lucky am I??!?. I thought this post was suitable for your Leisure Link and plan to share it there when you restart the link-up ?

Definitely! I will look forward to it!

I really appreciate you hanging out with me here Terri and for your very generous compliments!

I wish I could hang out with you in person!! 🙂

Ashley says:

Such beautiful pictures! Thanks for taking me on a virtual journey here 🙂

http://reasyume.wordpress.com/

Thank you Ashley. Delighted you enjoyed the sail. And thank you for showing me Florence through your lens.

Amazing – so impressive capturers… 🙂

Very interesting to follow… 🙂

Thank you Drake! I am so happy you think so. Wonderful to be traveling with you virtually here and on your pages. Every time I see a large ship pass along mine on the sea, I think of you ?

Amazing stuff. Those Rush Hour Yasawas, Manta Ray Lead By Tropical Fish, the WWII Plane Wreck. Wow! Amazing sights. I wish I could have seen it myself.

I would LOVE to see the images you would capture underwater Max (do Cardinals snorkel?) I’ve been looking out for a shark to snap just for you this season but unfortunately (or maybe fortunately) I haven’t seen any. Nothing like Bora Bora in that respect but still beautiful here ?

OMG, I am such a moron. I was referencing an earlier post in response to Mr Badfish today and saw an image of a shark that I had snapped earlier this season in Fiji at the Rainbow Reef. I had actually been alerted to his presence by another snorkeler and swam after him to get this shot. Had totally forgotten about it. Anyhow, I have now dedicated this ‘shark’ to you. Maybe I will see more when we get to New Caledonia. We lift anchor today.

MythRider says:

Amazing photos.

Thank you so much! I greatly appreciate your compliment!

MythRider says:

;0)

One word: stunning! You make me want to learn how to sail… or maybe just be a great crew team member… or galley cook. Anything to get on a boat and explore the world like you are doing. If you ever get up the western US coast, let me know, I’d love to meet you in person!

? you are very kind
Would be wonderful to see you set sail!!!’ Given that you are on the western U.S. Coast, you might look here for crew opportunities http://www.latitude38.com/index.lasso. ⛵️
And it would be delightful to meet you in person the next time I’m in your part of the world!

Amy says:

I agree with Sue… I’m in awe with your adventure! Thank you so much for the tour, Lisa, These photos are priceless.

Thanks so much for sailing with me virtually Amy and for your very generous compliment ?

fabiobrunazzi says:

It’s far worse to leave the dinghy on the beach suring at very low tide and not tying it anywhere!

Very true. Better to tie up than to swim after it when the tide comes in. The dinghy was very secure – anchored, tied up and an outgoing tide…that dinghy wasn’t going anywhere ?

kirsten says:

Can I just say that you know how to live life!! I always get nostalgic when reading your posts! In a good way. There is nothing better than yachting…nothing I say! I think my favorite trip was when we sailed through Desolation Sound in British Columbia. I’m glad you were able to see the Manta Rays, they are such graceful creatures. And by the way, you and I should never go to a market place together. We’d be broke by the time we left! I’m just like you when it comes to buying from the local Venders!! Thanks for sharing your trips with us!

⛵️ Thanks for sailing with me virtually Kirsten. If you ever want to sail with me really for a bit (and teach me all of your post processing tricks in person) you are always welcome! We’ll just steer clear of the marketplace. And talk about sailing ground envy…I would love to sail through Desolation Sound someday. I’ll say it again. The sea is calling you to return.

kirsten says:

I love to take you up on your sailing offer, but I think we are going to miss each other in Australia. I think I saw that you will be there until May and I don’t come until June. Desolation Sound was the most amazing place. Untamed and untarnished – simply gorgeous. I wish I had been into photography back then. I was only 18 though and into other things :-). I think you might be right that see is calling me!! And any time you have any post processing questions, please feel free to ask!

Damn! Well who knows what the future holds. If I’m still in Australia in June, we are going sailing! I know what you mean when you say that you wish you wish you had been into photography ‘then’. I didn’t really get into photography until after I’d been sailing the Pacific for a year. I think of all the moments that I failed to capture (like the predominance of my Atlantic sailing adventures or my 13 years in New York with few photos to show for it). But at least I have my camera now! I’d be lost without it. At least you had the experience of sailing Desolation Sound even if you didn’t get to memorialize it.

And I may be drowning you in post-processing questions very soon

Amazing virtual tour and thanks a lot you taking me there! So far and exotic for me. Bye. Kamila

Well I am so pleased that you enjoyed it Kamila. Thanks for sailing with me virtually. Would love to see you add Fiji to the long list of amazing places that you’ve visited to date.

Thanks for the virtual tour.

Thank you for your visit.

Michele says:

The manta rays are amazing- I have never seen one in person. i also loved the farm to boat delivery! Very mid-western approach- just pull up your old red pickup filled with corn wherever there are people! I guess all farmers are kind of the same- go to your customers!

Thank you Michele. Wish I’d been able to get better images of the mantas but the current was strong and the mantas were swimming fast (rather than playing like they did when The Captain swam with them). Still, it was a wonderful experience. They are beautiful creatures. And being a mid-western girl myself, I know exactly what you mean ?

dunelight says:

Excellent post..those fish in the top photo, I’m silly tired but they look like they have matching masks..with big eyes and a little off set wry mouth. The variety of sea life never ceases to amaze me. That farmer’s boat is cool too. When I worked on a cruise ship there would be the tender for the passengers on one side of the ship while on the other side was a separate hatch for the crew who did not have shore leave and farmers/fishermen in canoes would pull up to the ship and sell their wares to the crew.

?That fish photo was an unexpected treat. The expression on their little faces is almost surreal. The variety of sea life never ceases to amaze me either! I can’t get enough of it.

I didn’t know you worked on a cruise ship. How cool is that. What routes did you sail?

Wow. On so many levels. Do you mind if I use this GORGEOUS sunset photo as the inspiration for a watercolor painting? I’m not very good with watercolors yet, but I have to try this. I love the manta ray photos, too.

Well of course Jeanette! I am glad the photo was an inspiration for you. Looking forward to seeing your interpretation in watercolor! Thank you.

Those rays are amazing, Lisa. It must be an incredible experience to share the water with them. Your photos make them look very graceful and peaceful. Beautiful Fiji! I guess your two weeks is almost up by now.

? The Bimini has taken longer than expected and so we think we’ll remain in Fiji until the 23rd ?

Impressive travel experience, Lisa. I love manta so much and you capture their best moments 🙂 well done!!

Thank you Indah! I still have a long way to go before my underwater photos look as beautiful as your, but I am having so much fun along the way.

Debbie says:

Lisa – the starfish is gorgeous, the blue lagoon and its creatures blue like only the tropics can be, and those manta rays. Need i say any more. Like Sue right up the top, I am almost speechless. And that is a rarety for me too. Manta rays! Manta rays! I saw some once from the top of Moreton Island, after walking most of the day along the beach to the headland to see the whales. Missed the whales, but those Manta Rays! I’ve never forgotten the vision and felt an instant kinship with Manta Rays ever since.

Thank you thank you thank you for sailing the seven seas and bringing all these glorious pictures back for us to see. Manta Rays! 🙂

?Thank you for sailing along with me virtually Debbie! There is so much to love about the sea. I didn’t start snorkeling until I left on my Pacific journey, and since then, I have had the pleasure of swimming in many underwater gardens and with many majestic creatures including Mantas, Stingrays, Dolphins, Sharks, and Whales. I hope to visit the Barrier Reef while in Australia as I’ve been told that is the most beautiful place to snorkel in the world ?

I’ve decided to go through all your past posts. Amazing!

You are absolutely lovely to do that. Thank you for your kindness. I have been a bit quiet on the blogging front lately…life in transition from the remote tropics to the big city has kind of silenced me as of late…but I will be back soon. Peace, Love and Carl Sagan!