June was a month of repairs and more repairs with a bit of hope to carry us through.
At the beginning of the month, while waiting for spares to arrive in Airlie Beach, we sailed over to Nara Inlet off Hook Island for a few days of respite.
Image Courtesy The Captain
We enjoyed a hike to the Ngaro Cultural Site, dinners with friends, and frequent visits from a flock of cockatoos who seemed to have a lot of experience with sail boats.
Mr June
We returned to Airlie Beach two days later to pick up our provisions and were underway to Hook Reef by 7 June.
Along our way, our primary auto pilot and water maker stopped functioning. We dropped anchor in at Butterly Bay off Hook Island to assess the situation and considered heading back to Airlie Beach for repairs.
In the end, we decided to continue onto Hook Reef and postpone repairs until we reached Townsville.
Butterfly Bay
We are so happy we did. The light winds made for a comfortable couple of days in the Hook Reef anchorage.
Hook Reef
The visibility in Hook Reef was less than optimal, but the Reef was lush and we did manage to see a turtle, a white tip shark, and a HUGE lobster.
Hook Reef
The first pictures with my new camera were also less than optimal given that I really didn’t know how to use it. Lesson learned…read the instructions and play around with a new camera and case before entering the water. It is hard to focus on learning the basics underwater while simultaneously keeping an eye out for sharks.
Hook Reef
On our second day, we decided to head over to nearby Bait Reef where the water was much clearer. The snaps however remained less than optimal. I have some studying to do before getting back in the water.
On 10 June, we set out for Townsville for repairs and to wait for a weather window to return to the Reef.
When we arrived on 11 June, our bow thruster and port side winch failed while docking. But no worries..The Captain had successfully fixed these before. We would just add these to the ever growing list.
The next morning, we headed to market for fresh fruit and veg and saw some really cool street art along our way. In the afternoon, The Captain successfully repaired the primary auto pilot and water maker.
Roa
As The Captain was preparing to fix the bow thruster and winch, we noticed the smell of diesel coming from my cabin. We opened the floorboard, and found diesel in the bilge. The fuel tank had sprung a leak. The continuation of our sailing voyage was in jeopardy.
For ‘The Changing Seasons‘ – June 2016
After a good night’s sleep, The Captain sprung into action. He arranged to have the fuel pumped out, removed the tank, cleaned the bilges, and had a plastics company assess the source of the leak. Initially, the thought was that the leak could be stopped by resealing a drain bolt plug which The Captain did.
After resealing the drain bolt plug, The Captain reinstalled the tank, but it started to leak again while refueling, so he suspended the operation, had the tank re-emptied, removed the tank again, and sent it to the plastics company for repair. The leak was in a different place than originally believed. The second time around was a charm but the process was lengthy and painful.
Still, we had our health, our sense of humor, and a sailing voyage to Darwin, Indonesia, and Singapore in our near future.
Townville
The Captain finished the remaining repairs (bow thruster, winch, throttle, hatch handle) during our last days in Townsville. And I got to enjoy watching a new piece of street art be created.
We left Townsville on 22 June and sailed for two days to Cooktown where we are now. We leave in the morning and start making our way around the top of Australia through the Torres Strait and onto Darwin.
Endeavour River
Once we leave here, we will be off-grid for 2 weeks but will be sending periodic position updates via satellite phone along the way. You can follow our voyage updates on Farkwar or on Twitter . I will respond to comments when we arrive in Darwin.
Submitted For Cardinal Guzman’s ‘The Changing Seasons’ And For The Daily Post Daily Prompt: Voyage
😮 Never a dull moment, eh? Wishing you much luck with “bow thruster, winch, throttle, hatch handle” and any other word I might not know, and happy sailing!
Never a dull moment indeed. I am happy to report that we have remained fully operational during our sail to Darwin but we’ve experienced some high winds and uncomfortable seas. We tucked in at Lloyd Bay last night to get a bit of rest. Underway again now with a spot of Internet as we passed Portland Road – the only inhabited spot between Cooktown and Cape York (written at sea 30 June)
Exciting to get your ship log in this way. 🙂 Reminiscing of old times. Happy journey!
Thanks for sailing with me. The journey was a happy one indeed. On this passage, we bid farewell to the Pacific and hello to the Indian. Were you a sailor?
Ohh, no no, absolutely not! All I did was one week in south Adriatic in October, with 9 guys on board and they soon realised that one needs more than one hand for sailing. And since there was beer in the other and not much wind – or it was too strong – we motored most of the time. It was still excellent. I was dressed for the Arctic, but spent evenings on deck without socks. 😀
Well that is indeed an adventure at sea …even if you motored ?⛵️?
Oh my goodness!…..There’s more to sailing than just steering the boat in the right direction. Well done to your Captain for sorting out all the problems you’ve had. He must be very level-headed to cope with all the repairs and still keep his sense of humour. Wonderful photos, Lisa. Love the amazing street art. It must have been so fascinating to watch it being created. That’s a stunning sunset image, and I think anyone who can take photos underwater whilst keeping a lookout for sharks, is an absolute wonder. 🙂 Hoping for smooth sailing for you from now on. xx
Thank you for you generous compliments on the photographs Sylvia. We had another opportunity to snorkel Lizard Island, but crocs had recently been spotted on the Reef there, so I took a pass ??
The Captain’s problem solving ability never ceases to amaze me. I am happy to report that we have not had to leverage it so far during our sail to Darwin, but we have had a bit of weather. We tucked in at Lloyd Bay last night to get a bit of rest now have a spot of Internet as we passed by Portland Road – the only inhabited spot between Cooktown and Cape York (written at sea 30 June)
Wonderful captured – so fascinating views… 🙂
Thank you very kindly Drake. Have seen many boats along our way that you would have photographed beautifully. Will be by your place for a visit as soon as we have a stable internet connection. (Written At sea 30 June)
Beautiful shots Lisa and as you say, you have your health and a wonderful sense of humour! Wishing you smooth times around the top!
Thank you for your support and kind compliments Patti. No repairs required since leaving Cooktown although we’ve had a bit of squally weather. Anchored last night for a bit of rest and underway again now. Will be by to enjoy your latest street shots
when we have a stable internet connection (written at sea 30 June)
Really nice rainbow photo. I swear the Pacific has the best rainbows in the entire world. Man–that is a bunch of repairs–the positive side–you will be super shipshape for the trip to Indonesia. Te underwater shots were fine. So jealous of you getting to see art being made! Great pictures of The captain–got a great feel for his intensity. Keep safe.
So true! No one does rainbows like the South Pacific! What made seeing that mural come to life even cooler was that the artist @Jon_Electros_Avocado was friends with a Tahiti street writer @Sajmeonerocker that I’ve been following since our time in French Polynesia. It’s a small world here in the Pacific. Happy to report no incidents since leaving Cooktown. We have had a bit of weather so spent the night on anchor in Lloyd’s Bay. Underway now with a faint internet signal from Portland Road – the only settlement between Cooktown and Cale York. Will be by to check out your latest street art finds when we have a strong, consistent signal (written at sea 30/6)
Sounds like The Captain did well! Again. Wonderful rainbow (and all other images). Seeing Cooktown made me sad – we went there but I was in plaster up to the knee and couldn’t really enjoy it 🙁 .
Not easy to travel while you are sporting a plaster Anabel. I can appreciate your disappointment. Cooktown was such a delightful place with such friendly people… and spectacular views. The Captain did well indeed. We’ve been ship shape since our last repair in Cooktown (ego be fan gave out so we installed a friend’s spare). The weather was a bit rough so we stopped a night in Lloyd Bay for some rest but are now underway again. Managed to pick up a signal near Portland Road but only briefly. Will be by for a visit to see where you’ve been traveling lately when we have consistent Internet. Thank you for your compliments on the photos (written at sea 30/6)
What a beautiful collection of shots in this post Lisa. I may be biased because this reminds me so much of home. The Cathy Freeman mural is wonderful! I love your rainbow and cockatoo and the Hook Reef photos. But oh that sunset over the marina! So beautiful. Have you been to Darwin before? I’m sure you will love it.
You may be biased but it is no wonder…this area of Queensland is brimming with natural beauty and artistic talent. I could have spent an entire season cruising here and never tired of the place. I am just sorry that boat repairs kept us from visiting Magnetic Island and more spots on the outer Reef. We had a chance for more snorkeling at Lizard, but there were crocs spotted on the Reef so we opted for a hike instead. We are now sailing to Cape York and managed to get a fleeting bit of Internet as we passed Portland Road. I have not been to Darwin and am totally excited to go there. We hope to leave the boat for a few days and take a trip to Kakadu (boat maintenance permitting). Thanks for your kind words on the photography (written at sea 30/6)
Ah yes, best to avoid the crocs! Cape York will be beautiful and Darwin such an experience. I wonder where you are now…. Happy travels X.
We have safely arrived Darwin with no ‘incidents’ along the way. The most magical bit was sailing through the Endeavor Strait and onward to the Indian Ocean. We arrived here with enough time to take a side trip to Kakadu (via 4wd) for four days before we have to hunker down and prepare for our departure to Indonesia on 23 July.
Sounds marvellous! Did you enjoy Kakadu? How is Darwin? X
We are wrapping up our visit to Kakadu and returning to Darwin via Litchfield National Park tomorrow. Amazing country up here. And a few days in a hotel has been wonderful ?
Awesome snaps Lisa! and Kodo’s for the Captain for being so handy! I don’t know how you guys do it!! take care and be safe! ((hugs)) T.
? There is no stopping that Captain Teresa! No repairs needed since Cooktown! We’ve had a bit of weather as we’ve sailed toward Cape York, but it is sunny and the wind feels good on our faces. I managed to download some comments while sailing past Portland Road – the only place with Internet between Cooktowm and Cape York . Thanks for your compliments on the images (Written at sea 30 June)
Hope for a smoother sailing with minimal engine trouble. I have never to Australia. Lovely shots. Thanks for the share.
It has been smooth sailing since leaving Cooktown albeit with some strong winds. The east coast of Australia has been amazing to sail and I would love to spend more time here…but there are so many other places to sail first. Maybe next time around. What are the top three destinations on your list? (Written at sea 30/6)
Just fabulous, Lisa.
Thank goodness we have the natural beauty of Australia and talented, friendly Aussies to keep us happy in the face of multiple boat repairs Tish 🙂 (Written at sea 1/7)
I am in awe of your photographs and The Captain’s maintenance and repair abilities! Those street murals are amazing! Safe travels ahead and best wishes for no mechanical issues.
Thank you for the lovely compliments on the photography Janis. And you made The Captain quite happy with your ‘awe’ of his mechanical abilities. Luckily, he has not needed to wow me with his mechanical abilities since leaving Cooktown. I am hopeful we can make it all the way to Darwin without further incident. Internet is extremely spotty here in Northern Australia but I look forward to visiting your blog when we arrive in Darwin. (Written at sea 1/7)
Wow, that list of repairs just never stops. Chapeau to the determination and abilities of the Captain. Good you were able to remove the fuel tank without cutting extra holes in the boat! Have a wonderful trip around the top of Australia and I’m sure you will become a pro with your new camera as well. Looking forward to more amazing photographs, Lisa!
Ahoy there sailing sister. We are totally lucky the way the fuel tank turned out as well as it did. I really thought that leak was going to be the end to our sailing season. We thought we were going to have to cut out the tank, replace it with a new, smaller one and a fuel bladder. Thank goodness it was easier than that… although easy is of course relative. I am happy to report that we have not had further breakdowns since leaving Cooktown. We just arrived at Mt Adolphus east northeast of Cape York, which is the northern most point in the mainland. Getting a bit of rest before braving the Torres Strait and Gulf of Carpenteria. Internet is very spotty in Northern Australia, but I’ll be by for to visit you and Mark when we hit Darwin (written at sea 1/7)
Master Hubble wishes he could be right with you on your underwater photo expeditions- he would keep you safe??? glad to hear that all worked out and we look forward to. Your next update! Safe travels Lisa!
I would so love to have Master Hubble along for a snorkel or two….and he would be mesmerized by the variety of sea life ???. And speaking of mesmerized. Your photo of Master Hubble was a big hit with my friend Sarah and her family…the perfect gift. They had not yet decorated the baby room walls and we’re delighted to have something so adorable for his first artwork. (written at sea 1/7)
You’re very brave! I would not be swimming with sharks!
I’ve heard it said many times that the chances of being attacked by a shark are very slim. I’m thinking that if you put the majority of the human population in the oceans on a daily basis, the chances of sharks attacking people will be bound to go up considerably!
I am brave to a point Allan. One, I will sail comfortably in the open ocean for 21 days without sight of land, but a 45 min commuter flight from NY to DC would have me white knuckles the whole way. And while I’ve grown cautiously comfortable swimming with reef sharks, I draw the line at swimming with crocs. After Cooktown, our first stop up the coast was in Lizard Island which is supposed to have spectacular reefs. But when I’d heard that a croc had been spotted the day before our arrival, I opted for a hike instead. ?? (written at sea 1/7)
Oh my gosh….the list of repairs. Give Fabio my best and a big hug!!! He is really a handy man!! Hopefully when you read this you guys will have had smooth sailing and nothing in need of repair! Your photos are fabulous! You are in supreme parts of the planet few of get to see let alone explore as you both are. Think of you both often and I applaud you for sharing all of this. Aloha
Ahoy Susi – we were delighted to get your note, hugs and all, when we had a spot of Internet while passing Portland Road, the only town between Cooktown and Cape York. We’ve enjoyed a repair free, albeit squall filled sail up the east coast and made it to the top this morning. We are on track to get to Darwin by 9 July and hopefully can take a bit of shore leave and visit Kakadu National Park. We also have a CT scan scheduled for The Captain before we leave for Indonesia and are hopeful that they will remain clear. (Written at sea 1/7)
Very nice and thorough description of the mishaps as well as of the beauties and happiness of being a free sailors. Enjoy your next leg of sailing and as we say in Italy “Buon Vento”!
Ahoy Adriano – what a treat to receive your lovely comment when we had a spot of Internet during our sail up the coast. We are now in Mt Adolphus Island east north east of Cape York where we are getting a bit of rest before we journey across the Torres Strait and into the Gulf of Carpentaria. So far, our journey from Cooktown has been repair free but squally. We are looking forward to our arrival in Darwin and perhaps a few days of shore leave in Kakadu National Park while we are waiting for our Indonesian visas. Hoping you will come visit us while we are sailing Indonesia!!! (Written at sea 1/7)
So many repairs, one thing after the other but good to hear everything was okay in the end. In the end, everything really will be okay The Captain is certainly good with his hands and I’m guessing there have been kind people along the way to help all of you 🙂
Beautiful shots all around. That sunrise one is absolutely magnificent and it must have been worth waking up for. I don’t know what you are talking about your underwater images. They are stunning close-ups and they came out very bright too. Haha, it looked like you scared the turtle there – it’s swimming away! But maybe it was just shy 😀
Best wishes for the journey, Lisa. Mr Wobbles and his mother are waving at you and crew and wishing you a fun-filled rest of the way. If they can, they’d send some bananas along to all of you <3
Like you, I am an ‘every cloud has a silver lining’ type of gal and believe that in the end, everything really will be okay. Just think about it. If we weren’t in Townsville for repairs, I would never have never found Mr Wobbles mother. And I am happy to report that we’ve had a repair free sail to Cape York! Thank you for your kind words and encouragement on the images. I will be by your sight for a visit after we make our way through the Torres Strait and Gulf of Carpentaria and have a consistent Internet connection again. (Written at sea 1/7)
I have so many random comments to make here, but I’ll start by marveling over the photos – my favorites are the sunrise in Townville and the Cooktown anchorage shots, but every one is a winner! Now, to cherry pick the things that grabbed my attention: (1) the 501 Spanish Verbs book (the reader of this book is automatically a friend of mine!), (2) the underwater camera (at least you’ve mastered the regular camera … I am trying with limited success to teach myself all about a new lens I got for my Mongolia trip, but at least I don’t have to breathe underwater and avoid sharks while learning!), and (3) Mr. June (is he one of a calendarful of sexy cockatoos, the antipodean alternative to firemen?) Hope the sail to Darwin is entirely uneventful from a mechanical standpoint!
I adore your sharp eye and sense of humor. The Captain is the proud owner of 501 Spanish Verbs. He is fluent in Italian, Spanish, French and English and thus, a great travel partner. I am conversant in English (my native tongue) and fluent in nods and smiles. I speak a wee bit of French, Spanish, and Japanese, but only the kindest native speakers of those languages actually claim to understand what I am trying to say. Once, I was asked by a French woman to please stop trying to speak her language ?.
Mr June is indeed one of a set of cockatoo images that I though would comprise a nice calendar…but even I would prefer to hang firemen on my wall…if I had one. Who knows – this year I am photographing cockatoos, maybe next year I’ll get to photograph firemen ???.
I am so excited to hear you are going to Mongolia and can’t wait to see the pictures. We have had practically zero Internet since leaving Cooktown and were too busy playing fixit beforehand so I am WAY behind on blogs. Looking forward to catching up on your world when we have consistent Internet in Darwin. We’ve made it to the top of Australia ‘repair free’ and start heading west through the Torres Straits tomorrow. Thank you for the love. (Written at sea 1/7)
I feel honored to have received a response from sea! Nothing to miss on my blog unless you want to read about my meat worries pre-Mongolia … not quite as fun as underwater wildlife, verb conjugations, and firemen/cockatoos! Glad to hear the boat is cooperating and hope it continues!
Happy to report that we’ve arrived in Darwin after a repair free sail. Into the Indian Ocean now with so much to see. Heading to Kakadu National Park for some shore leave in a few days. Life is good
We can relate with all the repairs! Your attitude sounds great.It;s not about the repairs it’s about the adventure! Good for you guys!
Adventure indeed ?. I am happy to report that our ‘adventures’ since Cooktown have been limited to a nice hike and lovely sailing though the Great Barrier albeit with a few squalls. We’ve made it to the top of Australia without requiring further repair and head west tomorrow through the Torres Strait. Let the adventure continue ….hopefully with minimal repairs going forward …but then again, this is the sailing life we are living… ⛵️
Testing time! You seem to be coping admirably and I love the photos.
Laughing is far superior to crying in the dark times Hilary ? And I am happy to report that we’ve made it all the way to Cape York without further incident. We’ve picked up a bit of Internet here as we head west to the Torres Strait and Gulf of Carpentaria. Will be by your place for a visit when we have stable internet again. (written at sea 2 July)
Thank you for all the updates Lisa! Hoping that all is now strong and leak proof. Sending our positive energy to you and the Captain. Enjoy!
Positive energy received and welcome Sue. I am happy to report we’ve made it to Cape York without incident. Had a spot of Internet here and was able to download some news in our most recent anchorage (Mt Adolphus Island). There was an article I the NYT about the Canadian approach to refugees (Welcome) and it made me think of you. Canada rocks. You rock. Off to the Torres Strait now. Will be by for a visit when I have a stable Internet. (at sea 2 July)
Lisa what an interesting life you lead. These photos are magnificent. I love the sunset and underwater photos and the bird and tge dramatic mural. Wishing you safe journey in calm waters. Hope your repair troubles are behind you!
Peta
Thank you for your supportive words and kind compliments. We have made it as far as Cape York incident free and I am hopeful that I will be able to report the same when we arrive in Darwin. Will be by your blog for a visit when we arrive there and have a more stable internet connection (at sea 2 July)
Always an amazing journey, Lisa! Awesome photos!
? You are lovely to say Terri. I did have an opportunity to go paddle boarding in Townsville but I heard a croc had been spotted in the area so I totally wimped out. My first SUP experience will be croc free ?. I will be by your blog for a visit when we have a more stable internet connection. Only on bar here as we round Cape York. (written at sea 2 July)
Wow!! What an adventure!!, not to mention gutsy, swimming with sharks, WHAT!?! Now I can brag “i know someone who swims with shark” LOL. Your photos, a visual spectrum of your outstanding awesome journey. I LOVE IT! Lisa, I could go on and on about how thrilled I feel about your journey. But, heck you’re living it. lol.
Always a pleasure to hear from you Eva! Thank your for your generous compliments and love. And I am not completely brave . I opted out of snorkeling the Reef at Lizard Island (1st stop after Cooktown) when I heard that a croc had been spotted there the day before. Sharks are one thing but crocs are another. ???. We are rounding Cape York as I write this and making our way through the Torres Strait to the Gulf of Carpentaria. Life is good (written at sea 2 July)
Wow, this reminds me that sailing is more than beautiful rainbows and gorgeous wildlife. Think about all of the great stories you will have to tell about your adventures. I sincerely hope that you are experiencing smooth sailing after so many troubles. Your photos may be with a new camera, but they are pretty impressive none-the-less!
Ahoy Michele. Delightful to hear from you as always. Lucky for us, this passage has been more about beauty than repairs – we’ve made it to Cape York without incident. But you are right, the challenges that we manage to survive make for the best stories ?. We are under sail again now and making way through the Torres Strait under sunny skies with a favorable current. Will be by for a visit when I’ve got a more stable Internet connection. Thank you for your compliments on the photos ?
Absolutely fabulous. Thank you for sharing. And fair winds to you guys.
Yours truly, Brian.
Thank you so much Brian. All good so far. We’ve made it to Cape York without further repairs and are currently sailing through the Torres Strait. It’s a beautiful day and we are ‘flying’ with the strong, favorable current. Will be by your blog for a visit when I have a more stable internet signal. One bar here that is certain to disappear as we head into The Gulf of Carpentaria ⛵️
It’s a lot of things to fix and to know on a boat. Stuff I have no idea about, like navigation at sea.
I can do coastal navigation with and without a GPS but can only navigate the Open Oceans with a GPS and charts. Fixing things…totally hopeless but the Captain can fix most anything. And I assist. Today’s fun filled project, installing a new radar. This includes hoisting The Captain up the mast ☠
[…] http://lisadorenfest.com/2016/06/25/passage-notes-the-whitsundays-to-cooktown/ […]
Fascinating update, Lisa! I envy you for traveling our ocean and visiting interesting parts of the world. It’s like a dream journey! Sail safe and I will follow your update via instagram and twitter!
? Indah. Am happy to report we’ve made it safely for Darwin and will be setting sail for Indonesia on 23 July. How funny that you are enjoying my home country and now I will get to enjoy yours. So excited !!!
Wow – super glad to have visited you Lisa ((miss ya)) and sorry about all the repairs ;( – but sounds like it is expected and part of what you all do –
Congrats on the new camera – and how fun to see the new photos you will gift to the world – I can’t even imagine how complex it is to learn – whew – but maybe during some of the repair waits you can read and explore….
Peace
Ahoy Yvette! Good to hear from you! Am glad to report that we have arrived safely in Darwin without further repairs required. I can’t wait to get back in the water with the new camera, but I will have to wait until we get to Indonesia at the end of July.
Gosh Lisa you do have some adventures! Your pictures always look so calm and peaceful in spite of any dramas that may be happening! The underwater photos are still very impressive even if you were getting to grips with your new camera! Hope all is going well at sea! 🙂
? for your kind words Rosemary ? We are happily tucked i at Darwin and headeed out on a 4 day 4WD tour of Kakadu tomorrow. So excited ?
Sounds amazing Lisa – have a fabulous trip to Kakadu! Have never been myself so will look forward to seeing your photos! Must be lovely and warm up there – it’s been so cold here but I do like the contrast in seasons and we have plenty of heating including a wood burner! Enjoy your 4WD tour! 🙂
We are wrapping up here in Kakadu and headed back to Darwin through Litchfield tomorrow. It has been quite a beautiful experience. Photos coming soon. It seems like your weather has been particular crazy there in Perth so I am glad to hear you are safe and warm ?.
[…] the burgeoning art scene in Townsville, I was never without a color […]
Wow, marvellous!
Thank you for your visit and lovely compliment Roberta! Greatly appreciated.
It’s not all roses in your bit of paradise, is it? But, oh the sights you have seen! Always a pleasure sailing with you, Lisa. 🙂 🙂 Wishing you a happy weekend!
? Thank you Jo. The pros of this lifestyle continue to outweigh the cons and so we soldier onward. ⛵️Heading to Indonesia tomorrow. So sad to be leaving Australia but adventure awaits ??
That’s a lot of repairs. Are you sure it wasn’t sabotage by someone who didn’t want to leave Australia? 🙂
Great shots of a wonderful part of Australia. Hope all the woes are over.
Perhaps our sailboat, Amandla fell in love with Australia as much as we did and kept on breaking down so that she could extend her stay ?. Thank you so much for the compliment on my shots of your wonderful country! I’ll be back ??
I love the underwater takes.
Thank you Karen! The Great Barrier Reef is an underwater paradise. I only wish we could have spent less time fixing things and more time snorkeling, but such is the sailing life!
awesome post
Awesome place