After a two-day sail from Karimunjawa, we pulled into the very colorful river town of Kumai in Central Kalimantan (Borneo). The skyline included beautiful mosques, wooden homes and tall cement structures for bird nesting.
Edible bird’s nests are a big industry in Central Kalimantan. βCreated by swiftlets using solidified saliva, edible nests are among the most expensive animal products consumed by humans with an average nest retailing for about US$ 2,500 per kilogram. These nesting houses are normally found in urban areas near the sea [such as Kumai], since the birds have a propensity to flock in such placesβ [1]
Rather than head into the anchorage, we rafted up with our friends on SV Tiger Lilly onto one of the ships moored in town.
It was up early next morning for a the first day of our four day tour of the area with our guide Siti. There are numerous options for tours of Tanjung Puting National Park and surrounding areas (1-12 people, 1-5 days). We signed on with Sitiβs Tanjung Puting Oragutan Tours and Klotok Trips and decided to go big (4 days with 10 other sailors).
Day one consisted of a city tour of nearby Pangkalan Bun, a visit to Istana Kuning (a former Sultan home), and the highlight for me, a trip up the Sungai Arut River via a small klotok boat to visit a local Dayak community living there; the Dayak are a local tribal group indigenous to Borneo.
The next day, we 12 sailors boarded a very large klotok which would be our home for three days. Our crew included a knowledgeable guide Andy, a skilled boat Captain and his First Mate.
We were kept well fed and hydrated throughout the entire trip thanks to the excellent team of cooks on board.
Image Courtesy Of Melian Tomsett
On the first day Tanjung Puting National Park we made our way from the park estuary into the Sekonyer River to one of four research stations. We were captivated by the magnificent landscape. ‘Tanjung Puting National Park is the largest and most diverse protected example of extensive coastal tropical heath and peat swamp forest which used to cover much of southern Borneo’ [2].
A natural wonder of the world and a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve, Tanjung Puting National Park is one of the last places in the world to see orangutans in the wild.
‘Despite being a protected national park, approximately 65% of the Tanjung Puting’s primary forest is degraded due to palm oil production, illegal logging and illegal mining. It is the loss of natural habitat that is the greatest threat to the wildlife. Friends of National Parks Foundation is an Indonesian NGO that has been working to restore the habitat since 1997’ [3]. Poaching and illegal pet trade also endanger wild orangutan populations.
‘Orangutans are the most aboreal of the great apes and spend most of their time in trees. Their hair is typically reddish-brown, instead of the brown or black hair typical of chimpanzees and gorillas. They are among the most intelligent primates using a variety of sophisticated tools and constructing elaborate sleeping nests each night from branches and foliage’ [4].
Our first visit was an hour and a half upriver to the Tanjung Harpan Research Center within the park. There was an orangutan feeding in the late afternoon in a cordoned-off area that I found far less interesting than seeing the orangutans make their way through the jungle along our way to the feeding platform.
In the early evening, a welcome dance was performed at the Research Center.
We later moored off Sungai Sekonyer Village across from the Tanjung Harpan Research Center where the local populations that once in the National Park were relocated. Sadly, limited timeframes did not allow for a village visit.
On the second day we headed to Camp Leakey where we mostly saw males traveling solo and motherβs with babies as they are known to do during the first two years of life. In one instance, we saw a family together (male, female, baby) but I failed to capture a decent image of them. I did manage to get a good view of Percy, a young male who greeted us as we were anchoring off Camp Leakey.
The original of the four research stations now in the park, Camp Leakey was founded by BirutΔ Galdikas who pioneered the study of the orangutan under the sponsorship of Louis Leakey and The National Geographic Society in 1971. She continues her field research and advocacy efforts today through her Orangutan Foundation International.
On our third and final day in the Tanjung Puting National Park, we headed back down the Sekonyer River to the Pondok Tanggui Rearch Station.
Here, thanks to my friend Tom on SV Tiger Lilly who spotted them first, I was able to capture images of a mother and baby making their way through the jungle. To spend time among the gentle giants of Tanjung Puting National Park was a humbling privilege and one I will not soon forget.
We returned home to Amandla in the evening and readied ourselves to sail onward.
Next Up: Belitung, Ketawai, and onward to Malaysia.
Submitted for Cardinal Guzman’s ‘The Changing Seasons’
Susi October 29, 2016
So glad to get a new glimpse….I was begining to wonder where you are? Great clear shots…love all the info too! ?
Lisa Dorenfest October 29, 2016 — Post Author
Ahoy Susi! We miss you. It has been a crazy sailing season so full of activity that I am way behind on social. We arrived in Malaysia 2 days ago and are missing Indonesia terribly. We head into Singapore tomorrow for a week in a hotel, a visit with my cousins and a check-up for The Captain. Hoping for good news!
Manja Mexi Movie October 29, 2016
Oooh, what a treat it must have been trying to spot and photograph one of these magnificent creatures! As for the bird nests – I admit I thought it was just the name of a dish in Chinese restaurants. π
Lisa Dorenfest October 29, 2016 — Post Author
I totally thought ‘Bird Nest Soup’ was just a name of a Chinese dish too until we sailed into Kumai. Who would have thunk? We continued to see these talk cement nesting grounds as we sailed through other urban seaside towns. And it was truly a gift to interact with and photograph such amazing creatures. Icing on the cake of wonderful Indonesia ?β€οΈ??
Debbie October 29, 2016
HI Lisa, Im behind in reading your adventures! LOVE the orang utang photos.
The boat, the river and jungle, the sleeping arrangments on the boat remind me so much of a boat trip down the Amazon i did many many moons ago!
happy travels π
Lisa Dorenfest October 30, 2016 — Post Author
Oooh how I would love to take a boat trip down the Amazon! Lucky you. With all the sailing and sailing rally festivities I’m behind on keeping up with your adventures too. We’ve now arrived in Malaysia so I hope to catch up soon. Delighted you liked the Orangutan images. They are magnificent creatures!
The Snow Melts Somewhere October 29, 2016
A delightful read! π
Lisa Dorenfest October 30, 2016 — Post Author
Thank you for sharing in the adventure. Greatly appreciate your visit
Mabel Kwong October 29, 2016
Oh my, Lisa. Orangutans. You captured them so well, and told their story in such a touching way too. I don’t know what to say π The one swinging through the jungle certainly looks fierce, and Mr Wobbles doesn’t think it wants to be friends with him. Then again, as you said in the post it was feeding time and he was probably hungry. It is sad that orangutans are getting more and more rare these days. Hopefully some of us wake up and realise we shouldn’t be destroying their homes.
Percy and the baby monkey don’t seem to mind posing for you. Very crisp, very clear portraits and I am sure you got along with all of them, Lisa. Even the angry looking one π Hope all is well and good luck with the sailing onwards. Mr Wobbles really enjoyed this post up late at night, and Mumma Wobbles is coming out to drag him back to bed π
Lisa Dorenfest October 30, 2016 — Post Author
? The one swinging through the jungle was eating a banana as he made his way toward the feeding platform. I caught him mid-chew which gave him a fierce look. Really, the Orangutans seemed very good natured. I totally agree that it is a travesty that these beautiful beasts are endangered. Ceasing use of palm oil and encouraging conservation through Eco-Tourism or donation can help stem the tide. I thought if you and Team Wobbles every time I saw an orangutan! We arrived in Johor Bahru Malaysia two days ago and are on a bus to Singapore right now. Missing Indonesia and the orangutans. βοΈβ€οΈ?
restlessjo October 29, 2016
I think I might be a little in love with Percy π Happy hanging around, Lisa!
Lisa Dorenfest October 30, 2016 — Post Author
? Percy is very easy to fall in love with! Wanted to take him home with us…but I think he is happier living free in the jungle.
Mark and Cindy - sv Cream Puff October 29, 2016
This is a fantastic post. A great story with fabulous pictures. We really enjoyed this and are anxiously awaiting to see more. Thank you for sharing.
Mark and Cindy
sv Cream Puff
Lisa Dorenfest October 30, 2016 — Post Author
Thank you for sharing the experience with me. I hope that your sailing adventures bring you to Indonesia someday. I have to say that it has been my favorite sailing ground between the Netherlands and Singapore.
garym6059 October 29, 2016
Nearest airport please? I’m flying out tomorrow, I’ll swim to your locale. Amazing pics but I would expect nothing less :).
Ladybuggz October 30, 2016
I’ll be on the same flight!! a beautiful photo’s Lisa! Just love the baby shots! I’ve always had a thing for red heads! lol.. have a good rest in Singapore, hope the Capt. checks out well! Take care and talk soon! ((hugs)) T. <3 <3
Lisa Dorenfest October 30, 2016 — Post Author
??? I am delighted that you liked the images Teresa! The baby was my favorite too! What a little charmer! We arrived in Singapore this afternoon and are slowly getting acclimated to ‘big city’ life again. Staying in a hotel definitely makes the transition easier. Thank you for your well wishes for The Captain #hopeful!
Lisa Dorenfest October 30, 2016 — Post Author
? We would love to have you come visit Gary although we are sadly now a far swim from the orangutans. The closest airport to the orangutans is Pangaklan Bun (PKN) in Central Kalimantan in Indonesian Borneo. We however have finished our magical three months sail through Indonesia and are now shuttling between Singapore/Malaysia.
Liesbet October 29, 2016
Wow, Lisa. What an experience!! I am so glad you got to live among these majestic primates for a few days. And the baby, so cute! Doing all these tours really gives you a chance to explore the country, the islands, the culture and the wildlife reserves in depth. I’m just a tad jealous. π Enjoy the luxury of Singapore and wish the Captain “good luck” with his check-up! Xxx
Lisa Dorenfest October 30, 2016 — Post Author
Ahoy Liesbet. I wish we’d had you and Mark sailing by our side for the entire season and especially for the orangutan tour. To walk among these clever, sweet-tempered creatures can only be compared to snorkeling with the whales in Tonga. I am HUGELY missing Indonesia and experiencing a bit of culture shock at the moment but I am certain to acclimate soon. Five days in a hotel will definitely help. We just checked in. Thank you for the well wishes for The Captain. He is currently enjoying a long soak in a hot tub.
Traveller at heart October 29, 2016
Such lovely pictures.
If you love food, Sinapore will not disappoint.
Lisa Dorenfest October 30, 2016 — Post Author
I am amazed at the diversity and affordability of the food that we have seen since arriving in Singapore this afternoon Corina. I can’t wait to try it all! Thank you for your compliment on the images. I am really pleased that you enjoyed them. How are your Asia travel plans shaping up?
Mary October 29, 2016
Fabulous update Lisa…..always enjoy reading about your adventures. Safe travels.
Much aloha
Lisa Dorenfest October 30, 2016 — Post Author
Thank you Mary for keeping up with our adventures and for your lovely compliment. And speaking of adventure, I wish I was hanging out you in Japan right now! One of my favorite places on the face of the earth. You are capturing it beautifully.
Jean October 29, 2016
I don’t even know what to say? The photos are amazing of the children and the furry ones too. Dorn you are really something seeing every beautiful inch of this planet. Thanks keep em coming….
Lisa Dorenfest October 30, 2016 — Post Author
Well hey there Jean! Miss you big time. I am truly lucky to be having these experiences and wish you were here sharing every one of them with me…Bora Bora was just the beginning (and I am still laughing thinking of that visit).
Our Indonesia adventure is sadly over and we are now shuttling between Malaysia and Singapore. Captain has scans tomorrow and I am starting the job search ?. Borneo suddenly seems very far away.
lexklein October 30, 2016
I.Want.To.Sleep.On.That. Boat!!!!! I keep scrolling back to those comfy-looking colorful beds all lined up under a canopy, with fresh air all around, and I just feel myself snuggling in next to all my traveling friends. Heaven. And the orangutans: what an amazing face on the first one shown, what an incredible see-through flame of hair on that last baby, and every one in between just as amazing. Your adventure overwhelms me. Can’t wait for more, as always!
Lisa Dorenfest October 30, 2016 — Post Author
Well I hope we get a chance to travel together someday! And I hope that you get a chance to spend an extended period of time in Indonesia. Touring an orangutan filled jungle on a colorful klotok filled with kindred travel spirits was definitely ‘all that’. Thank you for sharing it with me virtually and for your generous (as always) compliments.
We arrived Malaysia a couple of days ago sadly leaving Indonesia in our wake (want to go back NOW). We are staying in Singapore at the moment in slowly acclimating to the ‘big city’ again.
Anabel Marsh October 30, 2016
Absolutely stupendous – and close to my heart. We visited orangutans in Sepilok a few years ago but were only lucky enough to see one in the wild. Since then, I have “adopted” a series of “babies” who are being prepared for release into the jungle. Most have done well, but one died and I was heartbroken!
Anabel Marsh October 30, 2016
PS hope the scans go well and the Captain gets good news.
Lisa Dorenfest October 31, 2016 — Post Author
Thank you for your well wishes for The Captain Anabel #hopeful
Lisa Dorenfest October 31, 2016 — Post Author
OMG I so love that you have adopted orangutans! I can imagine how heartbroken you must have been when the baby dies but think of all the lives you’ve saved! Bless you.
ledrakenoir October 30, 2016
Very fascinating views, so inspiring as your ‘photo letters’ always are… π
Lisa Dorenfest October 31, 2016 — Post Author
I am always delighted to see you here Drake! Thank you so much for your kind words.
Latitude Adjustment: Two Wanderers in Panama October 30, 2016
Great report! Thank you!
Lisa Dorenfest October 31, 2016 — Post Author
You are very welcome! Glad you enjoyed it.
Cardinal Guzman October 31, 2016
Amazing post as always. I’m mesmerized by your adventures and always wish I could have joined.
What did you use to shoot the orangutans? A powerful zoom lens? How far away are these creatures? Are they shy? Birdsnest soup is probably something I won’t eat…
Lisa Dorenfest November 1, 2016 — Post Author
I wish you could have jointed too! You are always welcome. Thank you for thinking that my posts are ‘amazing’. Love you man! I used my Panasonic Lumix DMC-GX8 Mirrorless Micro Four Thirds Digital Camera with an Olympus M.ZUIKO Digital ED 40-150mm f/4-5.6 Zoom Lens. It is the lesser of my two lenses but has the better zoom. The first picture was taken from the furthers away at 30 feet. The second, fifth and sixth were taken from the base of the trees in which the orangutans were resident. The fourth picture was taken from three feet away and the third picture was taken on his approach to that spot. Two orangutans were curious and friendly. Others would not shy away from us but were more interested in food. However, we only saw about twenty of Central Kalimantan’s thirty thousand orangutans during our three days in the park and seven days in the area, so I would say they generally, orangutans like to stay out of sight.
Diane Taylor October 31, 2016
Wonderful wonderful. I am thrilled to have received these photos and comments from you in the midst of your ocean travels. Loved the glimpses of people, kids (not that kids aren’t people!), boats, rivers, orangutans, homes, buildings, and to hear about edible bird nests. The diversity of our planet is endlessly amazing.
Lisa Dorenfest November 1, 2016 — Post Author
Endlessly amazing indeed. I feel lucky to have the opportunity to roam this great planet so widely Diane. Many thanks for sharing it with me virtually,
Terri Webster Schrandt November 1, 2016
Your river cruise sounds so inspiring, and the photos are fab–like I was along for the ride! But the orangutans! OMG, stunning photos and the baby is cute beyond words! Glad you are living the dream, my friend!
Lisa Dorenfest November 1, 2016 — Post Author
? Walking among the orangutans was definitely a ‘pinch me, I’m dreaming’ moment Terri. Thank you for sharing it with me! And we just had another ‘dream come true’ moment…we just learned from the doctor that The Captain’s CT scan results are clear of cancer at the moment! Best news EVER!
nowathome November 1, 2016
Amazing places and photos Lisa!
Lisa Dorenfest November 2, 2016 — Post Author
Thank you Aletta! Indonesia was a non-stop amazing sailing ground and the orangutans were icing on the cake. We plan to make our way to South Africa in a year or two and am hoping to get to meet you when we sail there. Looking for work in Singapore right now. Timing of our trip across the Indian Ocean depends on the length of the role that I can find here.
Michele November 1, 2016
National Geographic’s got nothing on you Lisa! You consistently remind me of all the places in the world that I am not familiar with. Your pictures of Percy are priceless. And edible nests…really? Can’t say that I am dying to test one, but never say never!
Lisa Dorenfest November 2, 2016 — Post Author
?? Well that is just about the nicest compliment that anyone has every given me. I feel blessed to have spent three months sailing in a really great issue of NatGeo, for that is what Indonesia felt like. I have one more Indonesia post coming mid-month, but we safely made our way to Malaysia/Singapore on the 27th and are comfortably ensconced in a hotel for a few days visiting with family. I have not eaten a bird’s nest either but may try one while visiting in Singapore – they seem to be popular here.
Retirementallychallenged.com November 2, 2016
Being so close to those amazing creatures must have been magical. I am, once again, blown away by your photos. You are extremely gifted with an incredible eye for subject matter and composition. Enjoy your hotel stay, but don’t get too comfortable – we love going along on your adventure!
Lisa Dorenfest November 3, 2016 — Post Author
You always make me feel awesome Janis. Thank you for sharing the adventure virtually. Orangutan filled Tanjung Puting was magical indeed! And even though I’m back in the big city with lots of wonderful distractions, I find my mind wandering back there often. Still, there is also the side of me that is enjoying the ‘creature comforts’ of Singapore. . I guess the secret to happiness is to enjoy ‘wherever’.
blueribbonfair November 3, 2016
Cuties.
Lisa Dorenfest November 3, 2016 — Post Author
How ’bout it Karen. They may be the most adorable creatures ever!
Gallivanta November 3, 2016
How strange it must be to back in a big city again. A jungle of another kind. Hope all goes well with the job search and scans. It was such a pleasure to see your orangutan photos.
Lisa Dorenfest November 6, 2016 — Post Author
Strange indeed. The Captain’s CT scans were (surprisingly but thankfully) all clear. Hoping the January PET scans have the same result. Getting traction on the job front which is positive. Fingers crossed.
Gallivanta November 6, 2016
That’s great news, and my fingers are crossed for you.
Lisa Dorenfest November 6, 2016 — Post Author
? Thank you Ann!
Christy B November 7, 2016
I really did not know much about orangutans so that part of the post in particular peaked my interest!
Lisa Dorenfest November 7, 2016 — Post Author
Delighted to know Christy. The orangutans are special indeed.
Indah Susanti November 7, 2016
What an amazing adventure, Lisa! Love the images here – especially Percy!! <3
Lisa Dorenfest November 8, 2016 — Post Author
Percy was definitely a charmer now. After visits to Belitung, Ketawai, and Batam (post forthcoming) our Indonesia adventure has sadly come to a close. We are physically shuttling between Malaysia and Singapore, but my heart remains in Indonesia. Best sailing ground EVER!
Heyjude November 9, 2016
How lovely to see what you are up to – not all sailing π This is such a lovely post Lisa – I enjoyed seeing the orang utans. I once really wanted to visit Borneo, but that won’t happen now, so it has been very nice to visit with you and how cute is that last baby? As for eating a bird’s nest – yuk! No thanks π
Lisa Dorenfest November 10, 2016 — Post Author
How lovely to see you here. Thank you for visiting the jungles of Borneo with me virtually. Easy to be charmed by such amazing, sweet natured creatures. I miss walking among them but am blessed to have had the opportunity to do so.
Sue Slaght November 10, 2016
Lisa I am so sorry I missed this post! Perhaps we were still in Mexico. At any rate oh my goodness the photos are extraordinary! Is there a type of photography you are not excellent at? My heart melts at the sight of these beautiful animals. Sign me up for a tour. I’ll be right there. π
Lisa Dorenfest November 10, 2016 — Post Author
OMG so no need to apologize. I am horribly behind on blogs given months of non stop travel followed by the launch of a job search as soon as we arrived in Singapore. I’m just glad you were able to share the Orangutans with me virtually and I truly hope that Travel Team Slaght make your way to Indonesia someday. I think it was my favorite sailing ground to date. What a season. I still have one more post coming on my time there…but I’m behind on posting too ?. Thank you for your generous compliments with the photos. Hard to miss when one has such adorable subject matter. Especially when they pose for you like Percy did.
thelostmango November 15, 2016
Interesting! I love your photos! I just posted my London, Paris and Italy trip! Let’s keep connected! https://thelostmango.wordpress.com
Lisa Dorenfest November 16, 2016 — Post Author
Lovely to meet you! Thank you so much for your compliment on the photos. I hope that your travels bring you to Kalimantan to see the orangutans someday.
Green Global Trek November 18, 2016
Lisa I just love this post! Borneo and orangutans have been at the top of my Indonesia list of wishful places to visit. The first few photos, especially the one of the “skyline” and descriptions of arrival are really interesting. We have seen swallows nests on sale in various parts of Asia before, and I seem to remember that they are believed to have some type of medicinal value. But I have never seen or heard of building places specifically for them to nest.
Heartbreaking what is happening to orangutans, and pretty much all wildlife almost everywhere in the world. Habitat being reduced, even in “protected” areas, human consumption of products, agriculture, poaching. I had read that Dr. Oz ( tv personality doctor ) had recommended palm oil on his show which had a huge impact towards promoting sales and further planting of trees and destruction.
That said, your photos of the orangutans are absolutely fabulous. Especially the little baby. Lucky you seeing them before they totally disappear! Terrific post.
Peta
Lisa Dorenfest November 19, 2016 — Post Author
Wonderful to hear from you as always Peta. Thank you for such thoughtful feedback. I have yet to try a swallow’s nest but understand they are supposed to be delicious and good for the skin. I hope to try one in Singapore.
The destruction of the orangutans’ habit is indeed heartbreaking. Ceasing use of palm oil and encouraging conservation through Eco-Tourism and donation can help stem the tide. I wish Dr Oz would pay Kalimantan a visit.
equinoxio21 November 19, 2016
Kalimantan! Wow. Green with envy.
And Birute Galdikas (what a name!) was one of the “Leakey girls”, along with Jane Goodall and Dian Fossey. Thank you for sharing this fab trip with us.
Fair winds
B.
Lisa Dorenfest November 22, 2016 — Post Author
Gotta love those Leakey girls! Thanks for joining me virtually in the jungles of Borneo Brian. Now navigating my way through the urban jungle of Singapore …a very lovely city
equinoxio21 November 23, 2016
All those places are definitely on my TTT list. A great-uncle of mine was Chief of Police of Singapore in the 30’s. Enjoy the urban jungle, and as always: fair winds Lisa.
Kirsten Rohrbach November 19, 2016
Gots to get me some of that solidified bird saliva…NOT! That’s one delicacy I think I’ll pass on. Beautiful photos of the orangutans, Lisa! Why is it that baby apes already look like old men (and women)? I love the way the infant’s flyaway fur shines around him (her?) like a halo
Lisa Dorenfest November 22, 2016 — Post Author
Ahoy there Kirsten. Good to hear from you. Doctors appointments for The Captain (he has a hernia which is way better than having cancer) and job interviews for me have kept me from keeping in touch but you are often on my mind. Wish you’d been sailing with us in Kalimantan. Maybe you’ll come visit when we are on the Indian Ocean leg of our journey in a year or two! Hope you and Patrick are well.
twobrownfeet November 28, 2016
Lisa, you’ve captured the soul of Indonesia through your journey. I definitely know we have to make that trip happen. Loved the captures of the orangutans. The dominant male orangutan is striking!
Lisa Dorenfest November 28, 2016 — Post Author
You DEFINITELY need to make that trip happen! The orangutans were the icing on the cake of three magical months in Indonesia. Thank you for your saying that I captured the soul of Indonesia. The place captured my heart.
Klotok Tour Tanjung Puting January 18, 2017
lisa thank you very much for your visit and for sharing her story here.
Lisa Dorenfest January 18, 2017 — Post Author
I so enjoyed my time in Tanjung Puting and look forward to returning someday. Its beauty and gentle residents are forever etched in my mind.
beataaleksiejuk January 26, 2017
It looks as amazing trip ! π I really enjoy your post π
Lisa Dorenfest February 2, 2017 — Post Author
Definitely in my top 5 travel destinations #bucketlist
Bespoke Traveler February 12, 2017
Your boat trip sounds amazing…something I hope to experience one day.
The Thrifty Campers July 31, 2017
Aww, such sweet Orangutans?. A favorite of ours! Loved the details?
Lisa Dorenfest August 4, 2017 — Post Author
An experience of a lifetime. Blessed to have been able to walk among these gentle giants.
MNL February 20, 2018
Wow, the orangutan photos are amazing!
Lisa Dorenfest February 21, 2018 — Post Author
I feel blessed to have traveled among such gentle giants. Thank you for sharing the experience with me virtually.