It’s been awhile.
Three and a half months of full-on overland travel in SE Asia, followed by my mother’s unexpected partial hip replacement surgery in Bangkok, followed by extensive preparations for our next sailing passage (#IndianOcean2018) have kept me away.
But now with land travel behind us, Mom safely home and recovering well, and the crew of Amandla again under sail, I finally have the time to share some SE Asia Land Travel stories.
Let’s Start With Myanmar.
In August, the crew of Amandla spent twenty-five days touring the Shan and Kayin States of Myanmar as well as the Mandalay and Yangon Regions.
Rather than repeat all of the wonderful things that have already been said about the place, the focus of this post is to express my gratitude (channeling you Janis) for those who turned a great travel experience into an exceptional one.
The Man in Seat Sixty One
I have never actually met Mark Smith, but he quickly became our tour guide of choice, not only for Myanmar but also for all of SE Asia. Second only to my love of sailing is my love of train travel. I was hooked from the moment that I discovered Mark’s incredibly informative website ‘The Man in Seat Sixty-One’ (seat61.com).
Mark’s primary aim is to ‘INSPIRE people to do something more rewarding with their travel opportunities that schlepping to an airport, getting on a soulless airliner, and missing all the world has to offer’.
I used Mark’s insights extensively to plan our land trip, sometimes visiting places we’d never even thought of just for the transportation experience. And Myanmar was no exception.
All of our travel was overland, predominantly by train, with a few buses, mini-vans, tuk-tuks, thrown in where rail was not an option.
Riding Myanmar’s railway was like taking a step back in time, with the open windows allowing for a refreshing breeze, awesome views and an endless stream of hawkers selling a variety of goodies at each station and underway.
Our two favorite routes?
1) The train from Mandalay to Shwenyaung (for Inle Lake) with an overnight stay at the very affordable ‘Wonderful Guest House’ In Thazi. We were transported to and from the guesthouse in Thazi via horse-drawn carriage through a town that sees little tourism. The innkeepers prepared a delicious breakfast and lunch for us to take on the train to Shwenyaung. All this for the cost of a couple of lattes at Starbucks.
2) The train from Pyin Oo Lwin to Hsipaw across the Goteik Viaduct. We liked the trip so much we opted to take the return back with a few days break in between relaxing at Kumudra Hill, an inexpensive but comfortable resort that serves up delicious homemade pasta.
Unique Innlay
We were introduced to Kyaw Kyaw, owner of Unique Innlay, through our hotel in Nyuang Shwe and were so impressed with him after our first day visiting Inle Lake that we signed up for two additional days of touring.
He treated us to a mix of known highlights and off-the-beaten-track adventures, including the best meal we had in Myanmar at a local, tourist-free family home on the water.
Kyaw Kyaw also had an immense patience for my obsession with fisherman and the floating gardens and had an eye for positioning me for photographs.
While we had to work around the inclement weather in the offseason, the sun did manage to peek out at times.
You can reach Kyaw Kyaw (pronounced Jo Jo) at +95 (0) 9428327671, via email at phoeyate.py@gmail.com and on Facebook at unique.innlay. We recommended him to friends whose visit followed ours and they also gave him glowing reviews.
The Win Family
The first day that we were in Bagan, we opted to familiarize ourselves with the place by hiring a private tour guide with a car. We needn’t have bothered.
Our guide managed to familiarize us with the most touristed places at a relatively usurious rate. We enjoyed the rest of our time in Bagan traveling off-the-beaten-track via e-bike at a fraction of the cost.
On our last day out, while visiting Thaikgyi Pagoda, we met Daw Aye Sander Win. She showed us around the family Pagoda and asked if we would like to visit her village.
There was something in her welcoming smile that made me agree and I am so glad we did.
She lives in a village of craftsmen that create beautiful lacquerware for which Bagan is famous.
She and her husband U Mg Win invited us into their home, introduced us to their family, and then gave us a two-hour tour of the village.
As we were leaving, Daw Aye Sander gave me a lovely, personal parting gift of Thanaka, a fragrant cosmetic paste made from ground bark that is used widely in Myanmar to beautify the appearance, cool and smooth the skin, and protect from sunburn.
If you’d like to visit the Win Family at their village, contact U Mg Win or Daw Aye Sandar Win at +95(0)9425086445 or +95(0)9967391093. Or find your way to them here.
Zin Gyi
While passing through Mandalay on our way to Inle Lake, we hired Zin Gyi to drive us to the U Bein Bridge. He was so knowledgeable about the Mandalay Region that we hired him again when we returned to Mandalay on our way toward Bagan.
My favorites were the visits to Sagaing Hill and Inwa. You can contact with Zin Gyi at+95(0)9788503578 or find him on Facebook at Taxi Kyaw Zin
Next stop …Laos
Submitted for The Daily Post Weekly Photo Challenge: Favorites
I am OBSESSED with these photos, Lisa. I’ve always had a feeling that Mynamar is a very special place, and reading this post and seeing the magic in your photos and travel stories only make that feeling stronger. Thank you so much for sharing! I sit here basking in the warmth of your travel experiences while shivering in snowy Minnesota.
Looking forward to reading more.
? Thank you so much for the love Britta! Your kind compliments have me smiling widely this morning. Sending you warmth from Penang. Only 61 days until spring ?
You’re welcome, Lisa! I’ll be back in DC soon, and I can’t wait for the warmer weather. Granted, it’s winter there, too, but not Minnesota winter!
Dear Lisa,
THANK YOU so much for this wonderful posting. It was sheer pleasure to read. Your photos are exquisite and made me want to
book a flight to Myanmar immediately! Thanks again for sharing.
XO
Margo
? You are lovely to say Margo! I would love to see what you would do with your lens in Myanmar. Your pictures from South America were inspirational. Can not wait to visit there. Look forward to traveling with you and Steve again someday ?
Beautiful catches, especially the first one!
Thank you so much for your visit and kind compliments Yan. Lovely to meet you here in the blogosphere ?
Outstanding photos – you truly have captured this place… Keep up the great writing! Love, Lilly SV Tiger Lilly Penang Island, Malaysia
Always an angel Lilly. Thank you for your never-ending support. And speaking of Myanmar stories, Dala’s Story is one that everyone should read.
Wonderful photo’s Lisa, and I bet very memorable places and people! Your so lucky! Looking forward to your next post so I can keep dreaming! I hope your mom heals quickly!
Happy New Year Lisa & Captain! Safe Travels! <3
? Ahoy T! Lovely to hear from you. I am a lucky girl indeed. Thank you for the generous compliments and well wishes for Mom. May you turn your dreams into reality in 2018 ??
Excellent, great photos, all the best for 2018
? Thank you Adrian. Lovely to meet you here in cyberspace. Your work is quite beautiful
Three and a half month overland! Wow! Your photos are so amazing, they make me want to go to Myanmar right now. I have also used seat61.com and have found it an invaluable tool for train travel.
What a treat to hear from you here Heather! Thank you for the generous compliments on the images. Where have you traveled using seat.61? After I sail around the world I would love to train travel around the world. There are some great trips to be had out there. ??
It’s good to be back here! We were once considering taking the train from Spain to Morocco (with a ferry in there too obviously) and seat61 was a great source of information. (In the end, we went the other way and flew from Morocco to Lisbon then to Barcelona. The problem of having to fit as much in as possible in 3 weeks of school holidays…)
That is definitely a challenge. So much to see, so little time ?
Welcome back! It’s always a joy to see your name popping up in my feed because I know something wonderful will be attached. Happy New Year!
Yay Anabel!!! Thank you so much for being there whenever I manage to make my way ‘back to port’. Always a pleasure. Wishing you a joy-filled 2018 ??
This was such a detailed, fascinating post about your land travels in Myanmar. Apart from the private taxi in Bagan, it sounds like everyone else who led you and team along the way meant very well, and went out of their way to make your experience simply amazing at the local level. They all seemed to have no issue with you stopping and taking photos, and look very game posing for you I’ve heard of seat61. Definitely agree traveling by land as opposed to air can be much more rewarding. You go a slower pace but there are so many more chances of going off the beaten path and seeing the most unexpected. Every single shot from you a winner as usual.
Safe travels for sailing and traveling in 2018. Sounds like you got quite an adventure lined up. Mr Wobbles and clan wave at you and wish you, Captain and the crew of Amandla all the best. He wanted to offer you some bananas but knowing you were too far off, I suggested we make banana pancakes with them ?? Wishing you a good 2018 ???
My country for your pancakes Mabel – even sans bananas. But if I cannot have your pancakes, I will gladly feast on your very kind words. Thank you for all your love! May your 2018 be filled with happiness. Hugs all around to Team Wobbles ??.
Lol, we see you linked to our private IG and good thing it doesn’t come up public ? ? ? Very happy to cook you pancakes any time you are in town, Lisa. Or shall I come to you at some point ? We give you one big hug right back ?
? The pancake link was like a Snapchat…all gone now ?. I am certain the one I left on your site could easily morph into a Snapchat as well (with a little help from Mr. Wobbles ???). I would LOVE for you to come to us at some point. And not just to make me breakfast.
LOL like a Snapchat ? Mr Wobbles has already taken care of the link on my site. He is very fast ? We hope to see the world a bit at some point and do not mind just coming to you to make a pancake breakfast ???
Dearest Lisa, it was as worthy waiting for this post. First of all, I missed you. The photos and narrative make me happy as you clearly had a fabulous time. The trip by train, bike and off the beaten track, sounds like heaven. That’s the right way to know a country, its people and culture.
Thanks for all the tips and itinerary. Very helpful for the future.
I’m glad to learn that your mother is well and back home and that you and the Amandla crew are ready to sail.
Wishing you a happy, healthy, safe and adventurous year.
Hugs and love.
Warmly,
Lucile
You never fail to make me feel awesome Lucile! Thank you so much for your (always) supportive and eloquent observations. The SE Asia land trip definitely had me smiling from ear-to-ear. I feel blessed that I had so much time to explore here (and would have loved even more). I can’t wait to see you bring your lens here! May you have a fantabulous 2018.
Hello! Happy New Year from snowy New Jersey!
The story and pictures are stunning. It’s really a gift to all that you share your travels!
I’m reading about the Rohingya exodus from Myanmar. It seems impossible to imagine in such a pastoral place!
I hope you have a wonderful New Year!
Happy New Year Barbara! I miss snow although I don’t miss the freezing temperatures you are experiencing at the moment. Sending you and Dan warmth from Penang ???
I so appreciate your traveling along with me and your generous compliments.
This latest chapter in the tragic Rohingya story actually started while we were visiting in Myanmar. Mankind’s ability to hate so deeply boggles my mind. But I think that it is important to continue traveling there.
There is a great article from World Nomads that articulates my perspective (and my experience) far better than I can. You can find it here.
Oh Lisa, I always look forward to your posts and this one was worth the wait. You manage to capture such joy in people’s faces in your photos and as someone commented earlier, they seem to love to pose for the camera! Myanmar does sound lovely and indeed you have been busy (just sorting through your photos must be a process!). I can see why these are your favorites and so happy you shared these to inspire us as the New Year begins! Hope your travels continue to be amazing and Happy New Year to you and your sailing team!
? Happy New Year Terri. Always such a treat to hear from you here! I am so pleased that the people’s joy came through in the photos and delighted that you found inspiration in the images. May your 2018 be filled with beauty and love.
What a wonderful Christmas gift to see your post link among my emails (insert happy dance)! Your photos never cease to amaze me – not only are they composed so beautifully but they capture the unique essence of the area you are traveling in. I’m glad to know that you and the Captain are doing well and that your mother has healed from her surgery. And soon you will be off on a new adventure in 2018 – I am looking forward to feeling the wind and sea spray on my face again (virtually, of coarse). Best to you and the crew for a joyful, healthy, and wonderous New Year.
?? Honestly Janis, every time I find myself feeling grateful for something, I always think “Janis – GratiTuesday”. I’ve been grateful a lot lately so you’ve been very much on my mind. Thank you for the love, good wishes, and virtual companionship. Wind and sea spray heading your way soon ??
Hello Lisa, I continue to be inspired by your incredible photos. I especially love the balancing fisherman and the smiling girl on the bike. Such joy! Your bravery in exploring fun flung regions of the world has certainly paid off in terms of experiences the average traveler would not experience! Wishing you fair winds and many more joyous experiences in the Indian Ocean!
Happy New Year Michele! I am delighted to know that my images inspire you as your words do me! I always find myself vigorously nodding in agreement whenever I read one of your posts. Thank you for your lovely compliments and good wishes.
I like the beauty of culture your post shows:)
Thank you so much! I am delighted that the culture’s beauty came through!
I love this feeling of traveling with you and making friends all over the world. May your days be full of love in 2018. Good health and happiness always, Lisa.
I love having you by my side for the journey Jo! Always a pleasure. Hope you had an amazing Christmas. Wishing you a happy, healthy, and fun-filled 2018. (And thank you for your most recent post that allowed me use my favorite phrase ‘Yo Ho Ho And A Bottle Of Rum’ in a comment)
Brilliant, beautiful tour and thanks for the seat61 tip.
OMG Hilary, Seat61 had me thinking of you and your book “Surviving The Death Railway” the entire time I was traveling SE Asia. The one train trip that I so wanted to take was over the Bridge On The River Kwai . Sadly, circumstances kept me away on three different attempts. I’m still in Thailand but off the rails and back on the sea, so I might just have to wait until my next time around. Wishing you a Happy New Year. Thank you for your visit and kind compliments.
I still haven’t been myself and fear age may get there before I do. Circumstances are also keeping me from making such plans. Maybe one day…
I am hopeful that you feel fantastic again soon. Sending love and healing vibes your way.
Hi, Lisa – Your photography is breathtaking. I have greatly enjoyed virtually traveling with you. I look forward to continuing to follow your adventures in 2018! Wishing you a happy and healthy year ahead.
Happy New Year Donna! I so enjoyed meeting you in 2017 and look forward to sharing more adventures both here and on your pages in 2018. Thank you for your very generous compliments on the photography! Big hug from Malaysia.
Fabulous! Just FABULOUS! Your photos are spectacular…and did I mention fabulous? Looking forward to seeing you somewhere on the Indian Ocean. Cheri and Jeff SV Grasshopper
Feeling the LOVE Cheri! Thank you for your very kind words both here and on Facebook. I adore receiving comments on my blog so I thank you for leaving such a lovely one here. Cannot wait to share an anchorage with SV Grasshopper again. We should catch up to you by Chagos if not before then. May the wind fill your sails (gently) in 2018. Love from Langkawi! Hugs to Jeff ?
However many months you’ve been gone, this post made up for times a thousand! You have outdone yourself on the photos, and what a great way to highlight the people that helped make Myanmar so special. I wish I could have done each and every second of the trip with you, but the next best thing would be duplicating this someday myself. Fantastic, amazing, and all those other overused words that can’t even get close to describing this post! ??
I wish you had been there with us. Myanmar would have never been the same ? I cannot wait until we have the opportunity to travel together. I’m still totally gutted that we couldn’t meet up in Vietnam. Thank you so much for all the love on the images. It was lovely to have you by my side virtually ??
Wonderfull Myanmar … And wonderfull AMANDLA team !
??? Just had a walk through your lovely Myanmar posts. It was great to see Myanmar through your lens. Hope that we will see you in an Indian Ocean anchorage or two this season.
Breath-takingly wonderful photos as ever, Lisa. It’s good to hear from you again
Great to see you here Tish. Always a pleasure. Thank you for the warm welcome back and kind compliments.
Lisa your photos are incredible as is your journey. I have followed your site from my early days (3-years-ago).
My Journey has taken a similar track as I return to Southwest Florida to reboot so I can travel the world.
You and a couple of others bloggers have inspired and shaped my retirement tremendously.
I wish you and the captain continued smooth sailing and wonderful adventures into 2018 and beyond.
Ahoy there Marty! I am delighted to know that I can count myself among your influencers! Its been a pleasure watching you find your voice through your creative writing and to see your wanderlust take you on out on the roads of North America. Super excited to hear that you’re planning a world-wide adventure. Its been a pleasure traveling with you and am excited to see where your heart takes you next. Thank you for the well wishes and very kind compliments.
What a great adventure, and NG quality shots to boot!
The highest of compliments Allan. Thank you very much ?
You do great work with the camera Lisa, really capturing the people going about their regular routines. I’m a big train lover myself and it looks like you have found some interesting lines. Thanks for sharing all your adventures.
Ahoy from Langkawi, Malaysia Dan! Thinking of you and Barbara in your ever declining cold temperatures. It seems that the warmth I have been sending your way just can’t break through. I hope it gets to you soon. Thank you so much for your kind compliments and for traveling along with us by rail and by sea.
I have missed you, Lisa! In person and as a story teller, traveler and photographer through your blog. These images are stunning as always. They provide such a fantastic representation of the experiences, sights and people you encountered. You really went local everywhere in Myanmar, creating very unique moments and new relationships not often had by the “regular” tourist. What an enjoyable post to read and look at. I know you truly enjoyed your time on land, but I’m glad you are back where you really belong: on the water and sailing around the world. Have a fantastic 2018. May it be a joyful, healthy and Western progress making one.
We miss you bigtime and wish you and Mark were here alongside us in the Langkawi anchorage Liesbet, but am also glad that you were closer to home when Mark’s mother fell ill. Wishing her a speedy recovery and looking forward to hearing that you’ve completed your second draft of your manuscript. Thank you for your extremely complimentary feedback and never-ending support. We hope that your 2018 wishes for us come true and that we are heading westward by mid-February. Big Hug.
A somewhat unusual one, that U Bien Bridge (no ‘railings’ whatsoever)
…with lots of foot traffic and a long way down ?
I didn´t know much about Myanmar… Such a fascinating trip, dear Lisa!… Thanks so much for sharing this post and photographs with us… wishing you an excellent 2018 ahead. Sending love!
Happy New Year to you Amalia! Wishing you a 2018 filled with joy, light and love Thank you for traveling with me virtually to Myanmar. It is always lovely to have you by my side!
Safe and wonderful travels in 2018, Lisa. These photos are superb, and your joy in Myanmar’s people and countryside shows in every one.
Thank you so much for the well-wishes and lovely feedback Amanda! It is always a pleasure to see you here. Wishing you joy-filled (not to mention the flowers and poetry 2018
Wow! Fantastic post!
Happy New Year!
Great to see you again John and Susan! Delighted to know you enjoyed the post. Wishing you a health and adventure filled 2018!
Oh, Lisa, I’m so glad to see that happy people and sights keep happening to you. Most excellent! Safe travels in 2018 and beyond.
I am blessed to be able to travel to so many beautiful places filled with such beautiful faces Manja! Thanks for traveling there virtually with me. Look forward to sharing more fun with you here and on your pages in 2018
Your post brought back wonderful memories of our special time in Myanmar. Your photos are absolutely stunning. I love that first photo particularly and as well the one with the woman with the scarves and the laundry hanging on a line. But truly they are all spectacular. Oh yes and the one of U Bien Bridge is amazing….!!! Worth the wait for your post
peta
Just took a another trip though marvelous trip through Myanmar, this time on the comfort of our boat through your lens. What a delight. I am especially envious that you happened upon the processing for the monk ordination ceremony in Bagan #jealous. Thank you so much for your visit and generous compliments Peta. So hopeful that we will be able to meet in person in Sri Lanka in the March/April timeframe! Should have scan results back at end January and when we get the all clear, we are heading your way (via Thailand and The Andamans)
Oh great. It is so much fun to see other countries through each other’s eyes and lens and “pen”. Looking very forward to meet you in Sri Lanka soon!!!
Peta
Just got the all clear on The Captain’s scans so we will be heading your way soon. March-ish. Will let you know when we have a firm schedule.
Lisa your photos are eye popping, gob smacking and stupendous. Nat Geo should be knocking on your door. I feel as if I am transported to walking beside you. The images of the fisherman are etched in my mind.
Wishing you all the very best in 2018. I hope to deliver a hug and good wishes in person. On arrival in Krabi we will do our best to find a boat to bring us together. Fingers crossed.
Am happily enveloped in all your love Sue! Thank you ?. Amandla and her crew are very hopeful that we will see you all in Ko Rok before you take off on your cross-SE Asia ? tour. We look forward to cycling along with you virtually on your madcap adventure from the comfort of our couch ?
HAPPY NEW YEAR, LISA TO YOU AND THE CAPTAIN. Love your photos, Lisa. They are just so colorful, full of life and positive energy. Everyone looks so happy and full of Love, As I pray for the world exactly all that I see in your photos. Much blessings and great health to you.
Love Eva ((xoxox))
Ahoy from Langkawi, Malaysia Eva. How wonderful to see your smiling face here this morning. Thank you for your warm wishes, generous compliments, and especially for your prayers of love for the world. Wishing you a happy, healthy and art filled 2018.
Beautiful captures, Lisa! Great stories behind these photos. Thank you for the fabulous tour, Lisa!
Thank you for traveling with me to Myanmar Amy and for your very kind compliments. Wishing you a 2018 filled with happiness and adventure ?
Wonderful photos, Lisa. What an adventure you’re having. I so enjoyed traveling vicariously with you through Myanmar. The people there look so happy and at peace with their way of life. Thanks so much for sharing your journey.
Thank you so much for joining me on the adventure Sylvia and for your kind compliments. Wishing you a joy-filled, healthy 2018 ?
Your travels never fail to amaze me, Lisa! Myanmar has been on my list for a while. I absolutely loved the pictures of the Inle Pagodas and Bagan Sunset. Thanks for taking me there virtually. <3
Oh I do hope your travels take you to Myanmar Cheryl! I’d love to see the place from your perspective. Thanks for sharing my journey and for your kind words.
Your lovely wide grin speaks volumes about your time in Myanmar. I love your portraits for this part of the trip, especially those fishermen ones. Looking forward to your adventures in 2018. Happy New Year!
? Joy was most definitely radiating from every cell in my body. Travel brings out the best in me. I’m delighted that you liked the portraits…my favorite type of imagery to capture. May we both spend much more time living the adventures we dreamed of as children in 2018 ?.
happy new year Lisa..
outstanding culture rich photos here. I found myself going back to slowly find more details.
and how nice that Kyaw Kyaw helped position you for photos – it also shows that you are so amiable and likely pull that from others.
and the ebikes – yeah – my kind of touring – and what a cool place.
Ahoy from Ko Muk, Thailand Yvette. Great to see you here! E-biking is definitely an awesome way to tour a place. I wish more destinations had such freeing transportation options. Thank you for taking time to soak in the details within the images. Greatly appreciated. Wishing you an amazing 2018.
So many wonderful photos ? This is exactly the type of trip we like, meeting people, seeing what they do and eating their food.
? …and the food was A-MA-ZING. If The Captain was writing this blog, it would be all about the food. He does all the cooking onboard and is the true foodie of the two of us. Meeting the people is by far my favorite aspect of traveling. Thank you so much for sharing the experience with us virtually and for your very lovely feedback.
Thank you for the virtual journey Lisa. Beautifully captured.
Thank you for sharing the journey with me virtually and for your very kind compliments ?
Beautiful photos. I’ve been considering a visit there but the current political situation there makes me uncomfortable. I’m torn between going and not going.
I hear you. We happened to be visiting there when this latest chapter in the tragic Rohingya story started. Mankind’s ability to hate so deeply boggles my mind. But I think that it is important to continue traveling there.
There is a great article from World Nomads that articulates my perspective (and my experience) far better than I can. You can find it here.
Thank you for your visit and your very lovely compliment on the photography.
We spent 3 weeks in Myanmar and loved it. Your wonderful post and fabulous photos make me want to go back and do more exploring!
Alison
I just did a quick drive-by of your Myanmar posts and they are absolutely magnificent. Little has changed in the five years between our visits there …and really, in that last 70 years. I look forward to further travels with you. Thank you for your visit and lovely compliments!
Such a detailed post and a great read, Lisa! Myanmar seems like an exceptional travel destination.
Thank you so much for traveling to Myanmar with us virtually Agness. We might follow your suggestion and visit Kawthong before we sail from Thailand to The Andaman Islands ?
Amazing photos. Nice read!
Thanks for you visit and kind compliments Syam. Delighted that you enjoyed the post ?
There’s beauty in everyday life and rituals, being able to capture that, there’s the real magic?and you master that skil to perfection….stunning photography and great storytelling!
Ahoy from Penang Ingrid.Thank you so much for your visit and very generous compliments ?
Just stunning. I love the color, the green and the scenery with these.
I am delighted that you think so. Thank you for the love ?
Wow! I love the photos in your Myanmar travelogue. You get a wonderful sense of the people. I love the one of the guy leaning out of the train window to buy food for his trip.
I am delighted that you love the images. The one with the guy leaning out of the train window was one of those lucky shots that make me smile ??
I have a hard time with taking people in situ photos as I am not quick enough on the fly. Might be easier now though since my camera is all automated–although I do miss my manual but not the slides. I think your skill with taking people photos is more than luck. you capture a sense of warmth that a lot of people miss
? You have made my day with your lovely compliments. Thank you ?