Amandla crossed the equator for the fifth time as we made our way south from Thinadhoo toward Gan to exit The Maldives. Initially, it was a lively passage, but when the seas calmed, the starlit sky was so bright that I could see reflections of the Milky Way on the water. Pure bliss.
I’d hoped that we would enjoy some last minute snorkeling in the surrounding Addu Atoll before departing The Maldives, but our time in Gan was filled with preparations for our next big leg to Madagascar via Chagos.
We would need to be 100% self-sufficient until we checked into Madagascar 40+ days after departure. Maldives exit paperwork? Check. Chagos Mooring Permit update to reflect a two-day delay in arrival due to inclement weather? Check. Fuel? Check. Cooking Gas? Check. Groceries? Check. More Beer? Not without a license in the Maldives ☹️
A quick read of the US news the day we departed Gan spoke of a rising tide of diplomatic controversies, advice for provisioning $10,000 sneakers, and reflections about life in the world that Klout built. Seemed like a great time to set sail where the headlines we would write on the Laccadive Sea were Sulas! Dolphins! Rainbows! with a gentle breeze under partly sunny skies.
Image (and GIF at end of this post) Courtesy SV Grasshopper
Made me want to establish an independent country aboard Amandla and travel onward forever.
We sailed most of the 281 miles from Gan to the Chagos Archipelago, British Indian Ocean Territory (BIOT), arriving as planned on 17 May.
Salomon Atoll
Chagos is a Marine Protected Area. Tourism is prohibited in Chagos and access is restricted. But mooring permits are issued to yachts in transit. Permit in hand, Amandla was set to anchor in Salomon Atoll for up to 28 days while waiting for a weather window to continue on to Madagascar.
Upon arrival, we were greeted by a variety of friendly birds (noddies, white terns, red-footed boobies), endless, resort free beaches, giant, tree climbing coconut-crabs, and crystal clear waters that were just begging to be snorkeled.
Salomon Atoll
I’d intended to spend a good portion of my time in Chagos cleaning the boat from top to bottom and catching up reading, writing, training videos and other such stuff that I’d been putting off.
Ile Boddam, Salomon Atoll
But it was ‘beach, snorkel, sundowners, repeat’ for the crew of Amandla in Chagos. Paradise found!
Sadly, our paradise was once another’s home and remains another’s heartbreak.
The Chagossian population was forcibly removed by the United Kingdom between 1968 and 1973 at the request of the United States to make way for a military base Diego Garcia in return for a multimillion-dollar discount on a Polaris submarine missile system; a mission accomplished by misleading Congress, Parliment, and the United Nations. It was an eviction whose necessity is questionable and execution indefensible.
Ile Boddam, Salomon Atoll
It is a story of canicide, ethnocide, fideicide, suicide, and facticide. A story of rendition planes carrying ghost detainees and conspiracy theories regarding the fate of Malaysian Airlines Flight MH370. A story of disputed sovereignty and ulterior motives behind the establishment of a marine reserve. It is an ongoing fight for citizenship for the Chagossian families in exile.
You can read the BIOT perspective of events here and the Chagossian perspective here. For a deeper dive, click on the highlighted words in this post that link to informative articles, watch John Pilger’s Stealing a Nation, and/or read of David Vine’s Island of Shame.
In the end, our time in Eden was short-lived due to our error when amending the arrival date on our permit before departing the Maldives. Our original permit had us arriving in Chagos on 15 May and departing on 12 June. The Captain, busily preparing for departure, submitted the request for an amendment, intending to delay our arrival by two days to 17 May given inclement weather experienced along our way. I failed to check the amended permit.
After one blissful week in Chagos, we were discussing departure dates with our friend Jeff on SV Grasshopper. I was certain our latest date to depart was 14 June. The Captain recalled 15 June. He went to check the permit and was mortified to find an arrival date of 17 June, rather than 17 May as intended, and departure date of 15 July.
When we realized the mistake, we alerted the BIOT Authority who promptly motored their patrol vessel into the anchorage the following morning and very politely directed us to leave given we did not have a ‘valid permit’.
We plead for an exception with the BIOT Administration in London that afternoon; even sharing The Captain’s cancer story and his dream to remain in Chagos for the 28-day duration, but no exception was granted. As a consolation, the BIOT Administration kindly agreed not imprison The Captain (up to three years), fine us (up to £10,000) or seize Amandla.
We were heartbroken but our spirits were buoyed by friends in the anchorage who brought us baked goods, books, and smiles, as we prepared to leave Chagos on 26 May, blowing horns and firing crackers as we departed.
Although it was early in the season, we were fortunate to have a decent enough weather window for the 1600+ nautical mile passage to Madagascar.
And nothing cures disappointment like a long sailing passage where watch routines, lively seas, and system failures dictate that life is to be lived in the present moment. No time to spend in the past crying over spilled coconut milk. Perhaps a few minutes between breaking waves to dream about the exciting new port that awaits in our future.
And for me, the open ocean is its own form of paradise with its sense of freedom and endless possibilities. My sorrow turned to celebration as I crossed my 40,000 nautical miles sailed mark as we made way to Madagascar.
But the words of this Chagossian song remain etched in my mind. Will you sing it with me?
When I was living on Diego I was like a beautiful bird in the sky. Since I’ve been in Mauritius, we are living a worthless life. Help me, my friend, help me to sing to send our message to the world.”
Ahhh, what a beautiful chunk of life story, despite the mistake in dates. “Made me want to establish an independent country aboard Amandla and travel onward forever.” In a way you did just that, together with the visiting birds. 🙂 I’ve saved the link to the film to watch with much interest. Thank you for sharing their story, and yours as well. And a special thank you for linking to me from this gorgeous post. <3 Happy Amandla!
Thank you so much for your tweet of support as we were sailing from Chagos to Madagascar and for all your love here again now. We are blessed to have enjoyed nine days in paradise and to be able to sail away on our lovely Amandla. Thank you also in advance for watching Stealing A Nation. It is a compelling film that packs quite a punch in 56 minutes.
And I thank you for putting the Madagascar flag into my world map of visitors to my blog. Looking great! 😉
????
Is there ever a reckoning? Probably not, but I always find it interesting how events unfold into the next. I would happily apply for citizenship to the lovely country of Amandla. What gorgeous photos you’ve taken of paradise. The water, the birds, the climbing crab (!) seem out of some other planet.
Citizenship granted! You are welcome anytime. Delighted that you found the images other-worldly. The Salomon Atoll was idyllic and I am privileged to have spent nine days there. I have faith that in the end that at least some of the wrongs will be righted, but sadly, its been a long, painful, senseless journey.
“Citizenship granted! You are welcome anytime.” Hooray!! (That was painless and easy.) Thank you. ?
As it should be ☮️
Honestly, the mistake with the dates sounds really stressful to me. Your photos are stunning as always.
It was stressful indeed. But we are thankful for the gifts of nine days in paradise, good health, and the means to sail onward. Thank you so much for your lovely compliment on the photos!
Some of that post made me smile. Some of it made me cry. And some made me feel so frustrated for you (but very pleased neither of you are in jail or without your beloved Amandla. Thinking of you with much love. Trish
Thank you so much for your loving support Trish! I hope you and Andrew get to experience Chagos someday once you’ve finished circumnavigating your own bit of paradise. The pictures in your latest newsletter had me repeating OMG over and over again. There is definitely a part of me that wishes I’d slowed myself down some and spent more time in your neck of the wood. Next time around
So many mixed emotions here, Lisa. In fact I think you covered all of them! What a beautiful world we have, and how utterly disgusting is the behaviour of our so-called democratic governments – US and UK – covert, clandestine and vicious, serving the interests of the few. I wish you well on the Independent Nation Amandla. Am sailing with you in spirit.
I truly thank you for your supportive words Tish. I hope that at a minimum, the UK will find an affordable path to citizenship for all members of Chagossian families in exile. And you are always welcome to sail on the Independent Nation Amandla.
If it wasn’t for your stunningly beautiful images, this post would be heartbreaking. So much of history – both ancient and recent – is appalling, and the lack of human consideration for what amounts to a simple mistake … and one that was self-reported.
I would imagine that time has a way of being almost irrelevant when on the open sea like this. I keep thinking back to your comment ‘the starlit sky was so bright that I could see reflections of the Milky Way on the water’ and it reminds me of how grand the universe is when we actually stop to notice it.
As always, safe travels and happy adventures.
The universe is grand indeed. And time does become irrelevant on long ocean passages where days merge into nights merge into weeks with the only difference being our source of illumination. I was devastated when we were asked to leave Chagos but it became abundantly clear as we left her beauty in our wake how privileged I am to have visited there and even more to have the means to sail onward safely and comfortably when required.
I had a lump in my throat when I read about your departure from Chagos. The circumstances were beyond disappointing. I can only hope that one day you might get that rare chance for a do-over ?
I so thank you for sharing my pain and for your good wishes. Initially, I was so heartbroken when we were banished from paradise on a technicality that I had a crisis of faith. But the sea soothed my soul quickly and it is all good now. I have nine days of memories to look back upon and a bunch of awesome awaiting in my future. Time to go tackle that sink full of dishes calling for my attention at present. Hug from Madagascar
“A bunch of awesome awaiting in my future” – that’s the attitude!! I think I will make that my rally call for the rest of the summer!!
Sounds like it has been quite a ride over the last month, Lisa. Chagos looks every bit the warm paradise place, and don’t blame you for beach and snorkeling as opposed to catching up with the rest of the world. The confusion with dates departing Chagos sounded like a nervy moment, but luckily it was no more than a slap on the wrist and leaving when you really had to. Close one but it all worked out in the end. What will be, will be. That photo of the bird flapping over the rocks is one heck of a shot. Perfect timing, amazing clarity. Jeaolous of the sunset shot too. So is that last shot. Spot on. Mr Wobbles waves his monkey arms and wishes you well for your adventures ahead ??️???
I thank you and Mr. Wobbles for all of your supportive love Mabel. I actually thought of Mr Wobbles recently. We were visiting a small island off Madagascar’s mainland called Mamoko where Lemurs run freely. The Captain brought over some bananas to share and one Lemur jumped out of a tree and into my face as he made his way over to the bananas in The Captain’s hand. Luckily he was light and soft and felt just like a little sock monkey I know..but a furrier version.
Mr Wobbles is humbled you thought of him. He waves. That is very generous of The Captain and sounds like the lemurs enjoyed the kindness from you way ?
I am glad you had a glimpse of this paradise but what a tragic history it has.
Always a pleasure to see you here Amanda. Thank you for your lending me your understanding ear.
So many creatures in mid-flight here – amazing shots – and I imagine you felt the same after being booted out of paradise and launched into rough seas for your earlier-than-expected passage to Madagascar. The video of the boat listing and lurching struck fear in my landlubber heart – none of those choppy rides for me next month, please! 🙂
I’m so sorry your stay was shortened and even more chagrined to know the history of this place. I wonder how many Edenic places in the world have these tortured histories, unbeknownst to me? It’s sobering. But to end on a more upbeat note, how wonderful that you get an extra month to explore Madagascar, and how thrilling it is to think that I will get a shot at it, too! Very happy to see you back here with an update for all; I miss your incredible photos between posts!
Thank you as so much for your supportive words here and for those you provided while we were underway to Madagascar. Your response to my sat phone email shortly after we were banished from Eden put things into perspective and started me on a trajectory out of the depths of despair. And now I have your Madagascar visit to look forward to in my near future. I am 99% sure you will not experience anything like the rollicking ride pictured in this post. We are now comfortably island hopping on the tranquil west side of Madagascar. The turtles and lemurs are anxiously awaiting your arrival.
Huge smile here! Maybe even some excited squealing.
Just lost a long comment because WordPress threw me out and was very reluctant to let me back in. Short version: good to hear from you!
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3rd attempt at a comment, shorter every time. WP keeps throwing me out. Good to hear from you.
Oh well, 2 and 3 have appeared, who knows where 1 is! Still struggling to see your images (on iPad) so will save to read on pc later.
Always a pleasure to see you here Anabel. I am sorry to know that WordPress threw you out as you tried to post your long comment. I appreciate you coming back for a second and third attempt.
Nice job!!
? Lovely to see you here in the virtual anchorage and looking forward to sharing one in Madagascar with you again soon. Fabio is going on a road trip with Jeff from Grasshopper, so I will be on my own until 14 July. Luckily I am armed with your handy video (created in Chagos) on how to survive on coconuts just in case I run out of food.
Hello Lisa, this post was alternatingly heartbreaking and beautiful. It never ceases to amaze me of how ignorant we can all be regarding the not so pretty picture of the behaviors of our people and our government in the past. Some of it comes from the lack of public documentation of atrocities, but some of it also comes from our unwillingness to believe that there are terrible things happening all around us. Sometimes it hurts to face the truth of what we see in the world and we lack even a basic comprehension of what we can do about it.
On the other hand- oh, that glorious sea and sky stretching out in front of you and your glorious photos taking it all in! I hope you find your next Eden soon and in the meantime enjoy your independent nation Amandla.
P.S. This puts it all in perspective- no use crying over spilled coconut milk! What a great expression!
Heartbreaking and beautiful was definitely my experience of it.
And your comment now has me waxing philosophical. I think there are people in government who operate globally and make decisions with the benefit of humanity in mind. I think that there are many others who try to do the right thing by their constituents but may act more ‘locally’ than ‘globally’ to accomplish those goals. And finally, I think there is a third group that thinks only of themselves and will step on whoever they have to in order to further their own agenda. Are our governments just representations of ourselves? Anyhow, I blather on and don’t know the answer to my own question.
The good news is that there are people in the UK government
trying to do right by the Chagossians and I hope they are successful.
And as for me, I am happily sailing in Madagascar where I have met many wonderful people, lemurs, and turtles and am sharing anchorages with many great friends. I even have a friend coming to visit me in August. Life is grand again.
Thank you as always for your insightful and supportive words. Looking forward to the day we can hang out together in person.
Thanks for an interesting and informative look at a place most of us never get to visit and a people whose history remains largely unknown to us. The story of the Chagossians’ forced eviction and their living conditions on Mauritius is so very saddening. While tens of thousands across the United States are marching to protest the forcible separation of immigrant children from their families, caging the children in jail cells away from their parents with aluminum space blankets for bedding, and the deportation of their parents with no plan for reunification of the families, your quote from Julius Lester bears repeating: “History is not just facts and events. History is also a pain in the heart and we repeat history until we are able to make another’s pain in the heart of our own.”
Ahoy from Madagascar Kirsten. Thank you so much for your read and thoughtful comment. It seems that we never learn. I used to believe that we were becoming more enlightened but social injustice is on the rise again and it looks like we are headed toward a doozy of a history repeat. Made me think of a favorite childhood book of mine, The Last Flower where the only survivors of the final war are a man, a woman and a flower. Did you read that book as a child?
No clues about the Chagos history and thanks for the references. I will check it out. Beautifully written and great vids saling at sea, so few of them and hard to organize. Thank you
Thank you so much for your read and very generous compliments. I greatly appreciate your having a look at through the references. I see you will be heading Fiji way in July. Will you return to New Zealand for Spring/Summer 2018/19 or will you continue westward? Either way, it’s all good.
What an extraordinary story, Lisa. How dare governments implement and condone such procedures? You really cannot trust a politician, can you? How much more is covered up? You can’t imagine this happening to your home and family. Were you aware of the situation before sailing there?
My knowledge of the Chagossians was limited before I traveled to the place. But our visit to the ghost village on Ile Boddam galvanized me to learn more. I remember the moment. I was enjoying a post-tour potluck with a few other boats in front of the makeshift yacht club at the island’s entrance. We were all laughing away, having a grand old time when I overheard one yachty tell another ‘well you know, they killed all their cats and dogs before they evicted them’. That statement silenced me. I had to know ‘was that really necessary?!?’. I went back to Amandla and started devouring the information I had downloaded (but had not read) before we set sail from the Maldives. I supplemented that with everything else I could find on the subject when we arrived in Madagascar.
An injustice with open wounds. Almost as if a harbinger of things to come, Chagos was named Chagas by the Portuguese meaning ‘wounds’ in reference to the Holy Wounds of the crucifixion of Jesus. May redemption be forthcoming.
Oh my gosh Lisa…What a world you guys are living, each moment! I cried twice reading this segment and your prose (lovely and clear) and your telling photos give such depth to the wonderful letter I received from the Captain. You see both sides as few have the opportunity to do and life on the sea does keep you often in the now. Looking out at our crystal waters here, with few boats in our bay…So calm and fresh. I am in theocean every day….blessed to start my day with that ritual. Happy to hear from and of you both. Thanks for continuing your journal for all of us to share a taste of your adventures. Alohas from the active isle.?
I am truly touched by your experience of my words and images Susi! I think of you often and how the Isle of Big has wildly awoken from its temporary restful sleep. It is good to know that tranquility remains at the Beach House. We look forward to visiting you again and hope that someday you will come to hang out with us on Amandla.
PS. I have so enjoyed following Daniel and Shell on IG and Daniel’s blog as they toured the world. I believe they have just completed their year. My guess is that this is just the beginning. Fabio and I just met a young couple in Madagascar last week who relocate to a new, exotic location every two years, supporting themselves by managing eco-hotels. I could so see Daniel and Shell doing something similar. Would be glad to make an introduction. Just a thought.
A post punctuated with incredible images, good times and bad, Lisa! The idea that you can see the Milky Way reflected on the water sounds wonderful! I’m glad the authorities did not arrest you or impound the boat, I’m sure your honesty was refreshing. Huge congrats for crossing the 40,000 mile mark!
Always a pleasure to see you here Terri! Thank you for your supportive words and share. And thank you for sailing the last 15,000 nautical miles with me from New Zealand. PS.that Milky Way moment was sublime.
So good to hear from you, Lisa. This is the stuff of dreams: the reflections of the Milky Way on the water, a little boat sailing the infinite ocean,even the far flung islands with tragic history and the paperwork frustration. True adventure, and it’s so inspiring to read someone living it now. I especially love learning about places I’ve never heard of. Just when I thought I knew them all.
The feelings of ‘stuff of dreams’, ‘true adventure’, and inspiration are mutual Julie. I adore your stories. They always leave me wanting for more.
I hardly know where to start. Fabulous photos that along with the narrative, helped me be there, wish I *was* there though I’ve never been much for long voyages across vast oceans in tiny boats. (Bigger boats yes please!) Perhaps that’s what makes your story all the more compelling. So much joy and sadness in Chagos. Too bad about the mix up with the dates but your time there sounds serenely idyllic. And such a tragedy about the Chagossian people. Rich powerful white men basically do anything they please. It makes me sad over and over.
Alison
Thank you so much Alison for visiting Chagos with me virtually, for your generous compliments and for sharing my joy (nine days in paradise was a gift) and my sorrow for the Chagossians who have been treated with such utter disregard. Big hug from Madagascar.
Lisa, thank you yet again for an erudite introduction to a part of the world we know little about. The disappointment of an early departure is palpable, yet as you point out, it sure beats the alternative of jail, penalty or yikes, seizing your home. Your positive outlook yielded a fabulous sentence which had us both chuckling out loud “no point crying over spilt coconut milk” ~ we will have to plagiarize this one!
We love your photographs of the birds that greeted you, especially the red footed baby booby! Sure looks like bliss.
The history is pretty horrific, to think that a whole community of people were forcibly removed, but sadly this does not surprise us that much because it has happened so often in different parts of the world. Here it is because of a perceived case of “national security” whereby the U.S. navy wanted to secure a mid pacific base. Other cases are more typically around mineral mining rights, oil exploration etc etc. The history of forced removals is shocking in its many facets and of course one needs not look so far to see that play out. Just last year, U.S. military and police forces had the very same mindset to forcibly remove Native Americans from their territory in order to facilitate the construction of a pipeline network that would directly go through ancestral burial lands.
Interested to see the documentary you mention and will watch that soon.
We are curious to learn if the current upheaval in the Maldives with the president jailing his brother etc. was something that was palpable when you were there?
Such an interesting post, and looking very forward to reading about Madagascar, a place that I (Peta) heard much about, while growing up in South Africa as my dad had some business there.
Peta & Ben
I typically tend to focus on the positive aspects of the countries I visit, steering clear of politics. My rationale has been to share a place as I personally experience it (which is usually awesome 24×7), to give my readers a bit of good news in a world that seems wanting, and to maintain the confidence of locals I meet who may not share the political views of those in power. My ‘guest’ status in these countries is also a deterrent; who am I to judge their politics given the exponentially worsening political circus in my home country.
But when a social injustice in the place that I have wandered is so clearly perpetrated at the direction of my countryman and purposely hidden from representatives in my government, I feel it okay to speak up.
The argument that Chagos needed to be cleared of residents for military purposes was a weak one given the US did not require expulsion of populations from the other locations where we house military bases on foreign soil. And ’The Navy official, Stuart Barber, who authored the original plan for Diego Garcia, admitted in a 1991 letter to Alaska Senator Ted Stevens that the expulsion “wasn’t necessary militarily.”
Sure, the UK are responsible for the horrible execution of the US directive but given their seeming abject willingness to do so, I didn’t feel a need to ‘look the other way’ as a yacht transiting through their Territory.
Now getting back to awesomeness, yes, Madagascar is fantastic. I thought of you last week when visiting a lovely eco-lodge just off Russian Bay that I think you would both adore. Lexie Klein is coming for a week aboard Amandla 14 – 21 August. When are you coming for a visit?
PS – Thank you as always for the love and for your interest in watching the Chagossian documentary “Stealing A Nation’.
Some of life’s best experiences are also the shortest ones! The pictures give a sense of how amazing the place is – how lucky you were to experience it. I hope you find Madagascar as enjoyable. I’m still so incredibly jealous that you’ve beaten me to the place that’s #1 on my top 10 list of places to visit.
Nine days in paradise is certainly better than zero. We have our good memories and are now creating new ones in Madagascar. OMG, you have to visit here. A-MA-ZING. We’ve swum with tame sea-turtles, rubbed the necks of a few land ones, mingled with wild lemurs, and gotten to know some incredible people scattered through the villages and city here. Do whatever you can to get here as soon as you can. It is awesome.
So good to hear from you, Lisa. Thanks for sharing the history and your beautiful time and photos of Chagos. Sadly, there are still a lot of hurts in our world. Wishing you safe travels.
Ahoy from Madagascar Natalie! Lovely to see you here. Thank you for traveling to Chagos with me virtually and for your kind and supportive feedback. Very much enjoyed visiting Warsaw with you this morning. Thank you for taking me back there for a visit.
One of the things that I am so inspired by is how everyone just goes with the flow-you have to it seems to be able to meet the challenges. I love the last two images-to me they symbolize the “amazingness” of your journey-Safe travels Lisa!
Before I set sail, I was the opposite of ‘go with the flow’. A Project Manger by trade, I knew it was time for a change when I started planning my life using Microsoft Project. Now my plans are ‘lines drawn in the sand in a rising tide’ as the salty sailor saying goes. Sometimes I miss the comfort I find in plans but mostly, I find this life freeing #blessed. Ahoy from Madagascar. I had fun catching up with your adorable crew today.
Heartbreaking history and date screw up! Such a beautiful place, I can’t believe they are so strict in the laws!
Here’s hoping you have safe travels to Madagascar ! Take care of yourselves! ⛵⛵⚓⚓??
Ahoy from Madagascar T! Thank you for your love and good wishes. You’ve been a bit silent on your blog lately. Everything okay with little Bugzz?
Lisa, yay! Congratulations for your achievement! Crossing 40k nautical miles and more to come. I’m so proud and inspired by you. Your life choices, and steps taken are a constant source of encouragement, inspiration and reflection. Thank you!
This post is pure bliss. The photos are otherworldly.
Although the captain’s dream didn’t come true to spend more time on the island, which was also sad for you, you took the right approach to move on and not spoil the beautiful experience you had . That’s you, my friend. All the way!
We got the gift of sharing the experience and to know of the facts leading to the fate of the Chagossians. These are sad and unacceptable decisions taken by ruthless world leaders which don’t make to the front page of the media.
All in all, an outstanding post. Nobody in jail, no fees paid, a taste of paradise and a deeply beautiful tale to remember.
Enjoy Madagascar!
Love from Anstwrdam.
Oops typo: Love from Amsterdam!
”No point crying over spilt coconut milk” simply brilliant!! Will adopt it and quote you forever!
Feeling the love Lucile! You always know how to make me feel awesome and understood. Thank you for sailing with me for the last 15,000 nm of the circumnavigation and for buoying my spirits so often along the way. Looking forward to the day we meet in person either in Amsterdam or some other amazing port along the way. Lexie Klein is coming to spend a week on Amandla in Madagascar. I think you should follow her lead ??
I have to agree with you that Chagos looks and sounds like paradise. Nobody lives there anymore (what a sad, unfortunate story), yet there are patrol boats; quite bizarre. Sorry about the messed up dates that reduced your stay. So much goes into preparing for a long voyage (and the one to Madagascar is extremely long!) that it is basically impossible to think about and check everything. I hope your time on the water during these passages was agreeable and enjoyable. A mix, probably. Such amazing experiences, Lisa!
And, I recently heard the fantastic news that you will get a visitor in Madagascar! I’m so excited for you and Lexie about this meet-up. Have fun, and keep enjoying your journey around the world. 40,000 miles. Wow! You’re almost finished. 🙂
The patrol boat, SV Pacific Marlin, is there to police illegal entrance to and occupancy of the islands as well as poaching as Chagos is a ‘no-take’ marine reserve. Yachties can line fish for sustenance purposes only. SV Pacific Marlin is also used to conduct scientific research of the reserve. Everyone we met from the vessel.
The sail from Chagos to Madagascar was incredibly lively. Force 5-7 winds on the beam in up to 5-meter seas most of the way. Water leaks due to constant swamping. Batteries mysteriously draining (now solved), auto-pilot failures due to poor wiring issues (now fixed), etc,etc, etc. But I am proud to say that helming is just like riding a bike and I had a blast rocking it in the high seas without the auto-pilot. And sailing is like having a baby. The painful memories of a rough passage disappear with arrival and all that is left are the great stories which grow into tall-tales overtime and desire to get out there and do it again.
Your love and virtual visits are greatly appreciated by we so wish you and Mark would come to visit us in person someday. We miss sharing an anchorage with you. Fancy a passage from SA to Brazil?!? I’ll complete a full circle traveled on the way. Would be great to celebrate it with you on board.
That makes sense about the patrol boat. For some reason, that passage to Madagascar doesn’t sound too appealing. And, I have a slight feeling that the one to Brazil will be similar, so I think we will pass. 🙂
We are both not too fond of passage making. I think my sea sickness has gotten much worse since being back on land. My whole trip to the US yesterday (9 hours of planes, theee hours in cars, and four hours in lines), I was nauseous for some reason. Weird. But, I had to think a lot about being sea sick, which was similar, yesterday. As I said: not appealing.
But, we’d love to see you guys again, of course, and will keep your destinations in mind. If we are not too far away at some point, hopefully a meet-up could be arranged.
Oh it’s all in the details. Thankfully no fines are prison?! Good grief! I’m sorry it didn’t work out as you planned but thankfully you had some time in this paradise. Is that video of your sailboat? i think I may need some anti-nausea medication just watching. 😉
It is difficult to tell from that sailing video (taken en route to Chagos) what a nice day at sea it really was and how comfortable it was onboard. How I wish our friends had been sailing alongside us shooting videos as we made our way to Madagascar. The 5-meter seas experienced on that passage would have made this one look like a voyage on a tranquil lake. Ahoy from Madagascar!
Great report and photos. Sad story about Chagossian!
Safe passages!
Ahoy from Madagascar! Thank you for your kind compliments and supportive words. So excited about your upcoming move to Medellin!
I’m going to repeat myself again! Your travels amaze me and make me want to overcome my fear of water. 🙂 I loved the birds flying, the hues of the evening sunset, jumping dolphins, and everything! Your sailing trips create a different world. Thank you for sharing such a wonderful side of our planet, Lisa! xo
Thank you as always for sailing along with me virtually Cheryl and for your very generous compliments. Everyone has their fears. I do just fine in a 47 ft sailboat in the wilds of the open ocean, but put me on a commuter airliner from NY to DC and I will white knuckle it all the way :-). Hugs from Madagascar.
Lisa it was fantastic to take a little time to live your adventure through reading your blog. thank you so much and Birgit and I wish you and the captain safe passage and blessings. Love Dave
? I so adore comments on the blog and greatly appreciate your visit and well wishes. I look forward to crossing paths with you and Birgit in some far-away port one day. Is Africa in your near future. Hugs and Kisses from Nosy Komba.
How tragic. I how you find your way back to paradise soon and I hope the people of Chagos follow and sing like the beautiful birds they once felt like they were. Godspeak to all.
Ahoy from Madagascar Cristina! Thank you for your wonderfully supportive comment. I hope the same for the Chagossians.
My first visit to your blog gave me quite an adventure Lisa. What an amazing journey you had/are having! The island evacuation story is heartbreaking. One wonders how many other disgraces are out there of which we have no knowledge. Made me think of Lennon’s Imagine lyrics. Thank you for a wonderful read filled with gorgeous photography!
Thank you so much for your visit and words of compassion Tina! ‘Imagine’ was the song that came to mind for me as well. Appreciate your encouraging words on the images as well and am looking forward to participating in your new LENS ARTISTS photo challenge.
Hi Lisa, These are wonderful pics. I can’t make up my mind as to which one of them I love the most. Wonderful adventure. God Bless! I’ve been trying to leave you a comment but have been having problems posting them. For whatever reason it will not take. )-: I hope this one reaches you. I am sadden for you about the beer, but maybe on your next stop.
Thank you so much for your persistence. This comment reached me and I am delighted to receive it. Your visit and lovely compliments are always welcome. And I am happy to report that we have again found beer in Madagascar ?.
Considering what happened to the Chagossian population, you were lucky, not to be imprisoned, fined or seized. You’re living a great adventure, despite the occasional setback.
Lucky and blessed. Nine days in paradise is better than none and having the good fortune to depart safely, free and clear was the icing on the cake. Thank you as always for your visit. Always a pleasure to see you here. Looking forward to more from your travels.
Paradise, indeed! Thank you so much for taking us along. So glad every went well and be able to continue your adventure. A lot of works involved and can be complicated for the Captain. 🙂
Thank you for sharing the adventure with me Amy! Captaining a ship is complicated and involved indeed. But The Captain has been floating my boat for over five years now and I am lucky to be sailing with him. When I first started corresponding with him in July of 2010, he wrote “I know what I am not: I am not your average couch potato or your average MBA & BMW. But I can show you the Southern Cross and I can be there for you if you can be there for me in times of need…”. He did and he is #blessed
Request to permanently board the Independent Nation of Amandla. As the world around us gets crazier and more distressing, I guess I shouldn’t be surprised that there have always been assholes and con men in government. Forcibly evicting the rightful inhabitants of an island in order to build another military base – how is that even remotely defensible? Like others have commented, I wonder how much other lying, cheating and stealing has been done in our name that we don’t – and probably never will – know about.
Now for the good stuff… your pictures and prose are stunning as usual. I hope you are able to return to Eden one of these days (just make sure to double and triple check your paperwork). Your ability to find grace and gratitude in your unhappy situation is inspiring.
Btw, I think that I’ll re-subscribe to your blog so I can be sure to receive your posts. I’m not sure where the notice for this one ended up but I don’t want that to happen again. ?
Citizenship granted. You are welcome aboard any time. Thank you as always for your visit, kind compliments and very supportive words. Needing a ‘gratitude‘ booster shot as we exited Chagos, I channeled you once again. Four days of asking myself ‘What is the best thing that happened today’ got me through my disappointment at an early departure. Ahoy from Madagascar where we are hanging with lemurs, turtles, and beautiful people.
Living the life! Wonderful post Lisa. 🙂
Lucky and blessed! Thank you so much for your visit and kind comment.
Wow there is a lot here. Love the reflection of the milky way — sounded wonderful. I didn’t know crabs could climb trees. The fauna and flora there looks amazing. It’s incredibly sad that a whole island of people were ejected just because another country wanted the spot for military reasons. I hope they can get their home back. It’s too bad about the dates on the permits and that there was no space for negotiation to fix things. Bureaucracy in motion I guess. Safe sailing to your next port.
Delighted that you enjoyed the post. I didn’t know (nor would I have believed) that crabs could climb trees either until I saw it for myself. Apparently, it is only the coconut crab (Birgus latro) that can do this. I understand that they can grow as larger than 3 ft but none of the ones we came across were that large. Our friends Patrick and Rebecca on SV Brickhouse made an interesting video of the Chagossian coconut crabs while we were visiting there that is worth a watch
In the end, I was grateful to have enjoyed nine days in this island paradise and exit safely and comfortably when required. I am hopeful that the upcoming case in front of the High Court in the UK will create an affordable path to citizenship for all Chagossians in exile. Thank you for your supportive words.
I see John already commented but I finally got a chance to read your wonderful post — filled with the twists and turns that make the cruising life so unpredictable and, ultimately, fulfilling! Could we please emigrate to your country of Amandla? It must be bliss to be able to tune out the news headlines and focus on sulas, dolphins, and rainbows! (What IS a sula??).
So sorry to read about the sad history of the Chagossians and that, once again, the U.S. had a part. Disgraceful. It’s getting harder and harder to go anywhere without having to hang our heads in shame over the actions of our politicians. But I digress . . .let’s hope the UK high court will make things right. And I hope you get to return there someday. Those sunset and beach pics are spectacular.
BTW, while you’re in Madagascar, if you happen to run into a Dutch man named Silvard Kool, he is a friend of some our Panama friends who is there right now doing mollusk research. Wouldn’t it be a small world if you connected?
– Susan
You are always welcome aboard the Nation of Amandla. And we may be able to have our first ‘summit’ with you at your new home in Medellín in 2019. I told The Captain about your upcoming adventure as we are currently considering ‘what’s next’ for Amandla post-South Africa. He says he would be interested in taking Amandla to Columbia so it is a possibility.
I’ll keep an eye out for Silvard. Read his bio online. Seems like a very interesting, multi-talented man.
And thank you as always for your support. Today is the day Dominique Elysee’s case is being heard in front of the UK High Court which could provide a pathway of citizenship for all Chagosians #hopeful
PS. Sulas are boobies.
What a through and informative update, Lisa! I love all of the pictures of wildlife you’ve provided in this post. And what a history lesson! I have never heard of the Chagos or their displacement. I love the Julius Lester you quote–what truth! Thanks for sharing this little known (at least in the U.S.), but tragic and IMPORTANT part of very recent history.
p.s. I’d happily become a citizen of Amandla. 🙂
Citizenship granted! You are welcome to sail with us anytime Britta! I am delighted that you enjoyed the post and thank you for all the love. Admittedly, I was only vaguely aware of Chagos before we started sailing and didn’t fully appreciate the extent to which the Chagossians were (and continue to be) mistreated until I visited there. Sadly, they lost a recent court case that would have paved a way for affordable UK Citizenship for all Chagossians in exile. Hopefully, a legislative amendment will be passed soon to address the citizenship issue.
Oh you do have bliss – and every time i visit I feel as if I can share in some of this bliss.
and the photos here are varied and vibrant –
peace to you both as you journey
Thank you so much for your kind words Yvette. Loved having you share the idyllic anchorage in Chagos with us virtually. I am sorry for my delayed response. Your comment sadly ended up in my spam queue and I have only now just found it there. You are the opposite of spam and I am delighted to see you here.
This is the first time I’m hearing about Chagos and it’s a place I’ll definitely add to my bucket list, Lisa. Your pictures whetted my appetite and I’d love to sail like you one day. Safe travels!
Would love to see you experience the world under sail. Lots of opportunities for people looking to crew. Catch a ride with a boat transiting the Indian and you may just get lucky enough to drink in this idyllic Paradise ⛵️?
That really sounds like an exceptional trip to make, Lisa! Thanks for the suggestion and keep inspiring. 😉
I hope you have the good fortune to sail here someday Lydia
wow– I enjoyed your adventure !
???Thank you for sailing with me virtually
It was well done, so thank you !
Sorry about the calendar mishap. Darn.
I looked it up, I did think it was Diego García, I’d never heard of BIOT before…
Well, you did have a few days there, and Madagascar sounds lovely.
Fair winds.
Our time in Chagos is now a cherished memory and we are continuing to savor ever moment in Madagascar ?
Take your time. It has become rare to find peaceful places. I was surprised by the lemurs. They look quite friendly, while their remote cousins, the monkeys tend to be aggressive.
Lemurs are truly soft and tame. They don’t seem to have the thieving qualities of monkeys either ?
Used to be fascinated by lemurs as a child in Africa. (We only had monkeys)
Now lemurs could be an incentive to go to Madagascar…
Hmmm.
Another excellent post from you!! Such beautiful wildlife and pristine beaches galore!! You are right it looks just like paradise. How happy I am no body got arrested or fined and wow, 40,000 miles! Jeez-laweeez, I think that officially makes you a PRO.
Ahoy from Mayotte ??. It feels like forever and a day since we were banished from paradise. All that is left now are the good memories. Blessed to have been able to visit there.