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July 19, 2015 by Lisa Dorenfest ~ One Ocean At A Time

Wailagilala, Viani Bay and Paradise

The Captain On Wailagilala
The Captain On Wailagilala

We left Nabavatu Plantation on 7 July and set sail for Wailagilala.  As we were approaching the anchorage, we were hailed on the VHF by our friends on SY Mersoleil.   Apparently, a boat had gone up on the rocks just outside the pass on Vanua Balavu and they were concerned that it was SY Amandla.  Luckily, that was not the case.  A bit of confusion ensued as we could hear SY Mersoleil but they could not hear us.

Duncan Dreams of Wailagilala
Duncan Dreams of Wailagilala

Finally, after we had dropped anchor, we were able to send a radio relay via our friends on MV Domino to let SY Mersoleil know we were not at risk. Whew!  Now it was time to relax. But while we enjoyed a sprawling, empty beach in Wailagilala, we were also treated to a lively anchorage.

Procuring Fresh Produce At The Paradise Resort
Fresh Produce In Paradise

After two days of rolling, we decided to lift anchor and take an overnight sail to meet up with our friends on SY Exit Strategy in Paradise…a wonderful, very yacht friendly resort on the southwest tip of Taveuni Island.  Unfortunately, the forecasts had changed so we only stayed in Paradise long enough to procure some fresh produce from their garden of eden.

Motor sailing from Taveuni To Viani on an unusually calm day in the South Pacific
Motor sailing from Taveuni To Viani Bay on an unusually calm day in the South Pacific

But we were hooked and knew we’d be back when the weather was right.

Viani Bay
A Glimpse of Viani Bay

After a two hour sail from Paradise, we picked up one of Jack Fisher’s mooring balls in Viani Bay and immediately went to sleep. We had just done an overnight passage and were in need of a few winks.

Jack Fisher with Ken of SY Silver Ruffian
Jack Fisher with Ken of SY Silver Ruffian

After we awoke, Jack, the patriarch of Viani Bay, came over and introduced himself.  Jack is legendary for his knowledge of dive / snorkel spots in the area and for his wonderful tales.  Jack also acts as the intermediary for the chief of the region, so we did an informal Sevusevu with him on SY Amandla and enjoyed his many stories.

Viani Bay - July 2015 - Fishfarm (1)_Copy
Fishfarm (1)

We were then treated to two days of inclement weather although we were very comfortable in the anchorage.   On the third day, we finally set out with Jack and Ilene and Ken, the crew of SY Silver Ruffian, to the Fishfarm for our first of three Rainbow Reef snorkels.

Viani Bay - July 2015 - Fishfarm (2)_Copy
Fishfarm (2)

It was just a small part of an expansive underwater nirvana.

Sargent Majors (I think?)
Feeding Frenzy

One could spend multiple seasons here and many do.

Fishfarm (3)
Fishfarm (3)

My burgeoning photography skills don’t do it justice.

Shark!
Shark! For Cardinal Guzman

The next day, John from MV Tiger joined our group and Jack took us out on the Long Boat to do a drift snorkel along the Pass to the Mini Cabbage Patch.

Snorkeling The Pass
Snorkeling The Pass

We were out again the following day, this time Dean and Sabina from SY Local Talent, Margy and Monty from SY Whistler and Sergio and Johanna from SY Spirare joined the growing group of snorkelers.

Viani Bay - July 2015 - Cabbage Patch (2)_Copy
Mini Cabbage Patch

After three days of snorkeling, it was time for some land based fun.  I signed on with the crews of SY Silver Ruffian and SY Whistler for a trip to the Tavoro Waterfalls in Taveuni.

Long Boat to Taveuni
Long Boat to Taveuni

Jack Fisher arranged everything.  He ferried us over to Meridian in Taveuni where we procured some very inexpensive vegetable and chicken Roti (FJ$ 1.2 a piece) for lunch and then took ah hour long taxi ride to Bouma National Heritage Park.

Water I
Waterfall  I

The trails to the Tavoro Waterfalls in the Park were somewhat steep but wonderfully maintained. And we were rewarded with a swim underneath the falls after the ascent.

Ascent To The Second Fall Was Easier Than The Ascent To The First
…..and the ascent to the first Waterfall was more difficult than ascent the second

We hiked to the first two waterfalls. There was a third section with three more falls that were supposed to be AMAZING (and also swimmable) but we had to get back to town for some provisioning and so we missed them.

Waterfall II
Waterfall II

After returning to town and provisioning, we headed over to an International Dateline landmark in Meridian.

Family living on the International Dateline
Family living on the International Dateline

It was my birthday on the ‘Today’ side of the Dateline.

My Birthday - Today Side Of The Dateline Image Courtesy Margy Krause
My Birthday – West Side Of The Dateline
Image Courtesy Margy Krause

And the great thing about being on the Dateline was that I got to celebrate my birthday two days in a row.

Dinner At Paradise Resort on Taveuni Island
Dinner At Paradise Resort on Taveuni Island

For Day 2 of the birthday celebration, we returned to the Paradise Resort to dine with our friends Dean and Sabina.  The celebration included a large chocolate cake courtesy of the Resort.

After enjoying a few wonderful days in Paradise, we are lifting anchor at midnight to sail onward to Suva via Makongi, Ovalau, and Beqa.

Sunset On The Paradise Resort
Sunset On The Paradise Resort

I don’t know if we will have internet over the next 10 days but I am certain we will enjoy many beautiful sunsets.

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Lisa Dorenfest ~ One Ocean At A Time
I am a circumnavigating sailor and visual storyteller. My travels have taken me across 360 degrees of longitude to 72 countries. I completed my first sailing circumnavigation on November 2019 aboard SY Amandla and am currently wandering ashore.

82 comments

passionatelybored says:
July 19, 2015 at 08:46

great pictures and fun… ❤️

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Lisa Dorenfest says:
July 19, 2015 at 22:01

Thank you Jane. I’m delighted you liked the photos. And ‘Twas fun indeed

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Manja Mexi Movie says:
July 19, 2015 at 09:29

Family living on the International Dateline is one excellent photo and this is a lovely account. Thank you.

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Lisa Dorenfest says:
July 19, 2015 at 22:20

☺️ That was my favorite photo of the set so I am very pleased that you liked it and enjoyed the narrative as well! Than you for your comment

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badfish says:
July 19, 2015 at 20:25

Just freakin lovely! I think you were very lucky to see the Pacific so Pacific!!! Those photos on glass water are remarkable, and probably rare. Tell me…what does SY stand for in front of ship names. And do we call it a ship or a boat?

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badfish says:
July 19, 2015 at 20:54

Oh…and “Duncan” looks very cool. RED legs. But it looks like your Duncan needs a newer, bigger shell. He doesn’t fit inside the thing. thanks for the ping…

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Lisa Dorenfest says:
July 19, 2015 at 22:38

Where does your Duncan find his upgrades

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badfish says:
July 23, 2015 at 21:46

I buy him shells from a crab site. There are a bunch lying around on the floor. His “cage” is the master bedroom/office in my apartment. He has the run of the room. I also have many other kinds of shells, and two big buckets of sand, one wet, one dry for him to walk a planck up and down out of…he’s a hoot.

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Lisa Dorenfest says:
July 28, 2015 at 02:20

Your Duncan has got it really good. Perhaps it is the Wailagilala Hermit Crabs that are dreaming of having Duncan’s life.

badfish says:
July 29, 2015 at 00:53

All his needs are pretty much taken care of. Though, I understand they are very social, and he’s all alone, with no partner. I may fill a bit of the void?

Lisa Dorenfest says:
July 29, 2015 at 01:36

He is lucky to have you as his ‘wing-man’ but I think he needs a Duncanette 🙂

badfish says:
July 29, 2015 at 21:31

Is something wrong with your blog? I tried to reply to previous comment a number of times, and it “failed to send”??? If you get this, let me know!
Right…a Duncanette with red legs

Lisa Dorenfest says:
July 29, 2015 at 21:40

? Got it

Lisa Dorenfest says:
July 30, 2015 at 23:40

PS . Definitely a Duncanette with red legs. I think the one featured on this post was trying to attract him with her ‘mini-skirt’ ?

badfish says:
August 1, 2015 at 22:38

Yeah, real mini. That girl needs a new dress, a bigger one!

Lisa Dorenfest says:
July 19, 2015 at 22:29

Well thank you so very much Mr Badfish! I’m glad you think so! SY stands for ‘Sailing Yacht’. And we call it a sailboat, a sailing vessel, a boat, a ship, or a dream. Take your pick ⛵️

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badfish says:
July 23, 2015 at 21:39

A Dream come true, eh? I wonder how long people plan on doing that…taking off and sailing the world? First, you gotta get real good at sailing. Then, fixing stuff. Then finding a Lisa for company. So much to do…

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Lisa Dorenfest says:
July 28, 2015 at 02:18

?

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barrydjd says:
July 19, 2015 at 21:20

Does that mean double the presents too? Happy Birthday

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Lisa Dorenfest says:
July 19, 2015 at 22:44

unfortunately not, but then sailing Fiji on one’s birthday is kind of like getting double presents. Thank you for the birthday wishes

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nelkumi says:
July 19, 2015 at 23:57

Happy Birthday!

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Lisa Dorenfest says:
July 27, 2015 at 03:57

Thank you so very much for the birthday wishes Nelkumi. Sorry for the delay in responding. Have spent several days in an anchorage without internet.

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Frankie Beane says:
July 20, 2015 at 01:16

Happy Birthday–twice.

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Lisa Dorenfest says:
July 27, 2015 at 04:07

Thank you for the wishes x2 :-). Sorry for the delay in responding. Spent several days in an anchorage without internet.

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Frankie Beane says:
July 27, 2015 at 12:06

No worries. I figured you had no internet.

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Kirsten says:
July 20, 2015 at 04:29

Happy (belated) birthday, Lisa! I’ll write you a proper note soon! Kirsten

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Lisa Dorenfest says:
July 27, 2015 at 04:09

Ahoy from Viti Levu Kirsten! So wonderful to hear from you. Hope you are having a lovely summer. Thanks for the b-day wishes. Was in the anchorage at Makogai (the former leper colony and now marine reserve) and there was no coverage. It was nice. Miss you!

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restlessjo says:
July 20, 2015 at 07:51

Loved your happy captain on the beach, and your burgeoning camera skills! 🙂 🙂 Oh, what a paradise, Lisa! Very belated birthday wishes. I think they all came true 🙂

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Lisa Dorenfest says:
July 27, 2015 at 04:13

Thank you for your kind words and birthday greeting Jo! Fiji is indeed Paradise. Definitely a dream come true. Sorry for my delay in responding once again..internet connection was lacking in our last (wonderful) anchorage in Makogai.

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goldenchild31 says:
July 20, 2015 at 08:37

I absolutely LOVE that last photo. Simply beautiful!

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Lisa Dorenfest says:
July 27, 2015 at 04:28

I am so pleased that you liked the photo Olivia! Fiji definitely delivers on sunsets!

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Gallivanta says:
July 20, 2015 at 08:38

Fiji, the way the world should be. 🙂 Happy Birthday.

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Lisa Dorenfest says:
July 27, 2015 at 04:40

Indeed :-). Thank you so much for the birthday wishes. Apologies for my delay in responding. I have spent the last week in Makogai (former leper colony and now a mariculture reserve) without internet. Are you familiar with it?

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Gallivanta says:
July 27, 2015 at 05:27

Indeed, but not as a mariculture reserve which I am pleased to learn. I haven’t visited Makogai but my father visited there often, especially when it was being used as a research island for livestock (sheep, I think.)

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Lisa Dorenfest says:
July 28, 2015 at 00:12

Well how cool is that! There is a man on the island who was brought there as a child during the leper colony days (his parents worked there) and remained as the island transitioned. I bet your father met him.

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Gallivanta says:
July 28, 2015 at 00:47

He probably did!

themofman says:
July 20, 2015 at 10:12

Glad that you’re safe and sound.

That fourth picture is beautiful.

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Lisa Dorenfest says:
July 27, 2015 at 04:48

Thank you Allan! It was unusual to see the Pacific Ocean look like a lake.

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Janice says:
July 20, 2015 at 10:54

Lovely, lovely, lovely on all counts. Happy Birthday, my friend! So good to see you in that “dateline” photo!

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Lisa Dorenfest says:
July 27, 2015 at 04:56

Ahoy from Viti Levu Janice! Thank you so much for the birthday wishes and sorry for the delay in responding. Have spent the last six days in an anchorage sans internet. ‘Twas lovely! Miss you!

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oopsjohn says:
July 20, 2015 at 11:35

Looks like everyone else has said it before me, but Happy Birthday!

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Lisa Dorenfest says:
July 27, 2015 at 19:17

Thank you so much for the birthday wishes John! Greatly appreciated 🙂

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Karen Thurman says:
July 20, 2015 at 12:53

Chocolate cake. Yum!! I missed your birthday 🙁 so happy belated birthday. Looks like you had a wonderful time!

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Lisa Dorenfest says:
July 27, 2015 at 19:36

What a wonderful treat for me when I returned to the land of internet and received your birthday wishes and advice on the photography competition. Will have a read this afternoon and am certain send some follow on questions. Thanks to Mick as well.

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Retirementallychallenged.com says:
July 20, 2015 at 14:52

Your photos are so beautiful and inspiring! You truly are living the dream. Happy birthday!

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Lisa Dorenfest says:
July 27, 2015 at 20:22

Well thank you Janis! I appreciate the compliments and the birthday wishes. I am a lucky girl.

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ledrakenoir says:
July 20, 2015 at 20:25

Maybe a little late but Happy Birthday… 🙂

Amazing captures, so fascinating… 🙂

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Lisa Dorenfest says:
July 27, 2015 at 20:30

Thank you Drake for your birthday wishes and lovely compliments :-). Greatly appreciated!

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littledogslaughed says:
July 20, 2015 at 21:24

Happy Birthday Lisa from everyone at Little Dogs Laughed ( especially Master Hubble)!!!

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Lisa Dorenfest says:
July 28, 2015 at 00:17

Thank you Meg to you and the whole Little Dogs Laughed family!

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lexklein says:
July 21, 2015 at 00:59

Now THAT’s the way to spend a birthday (or two)! Oh, that placid water in Taveuni and Viani Bay is incredible – so inviting and cool-looking. I am so glad I followed this blog a while ago; I am getting a taste of something I never imagined I’d see through a “regular” person’s eyes. My interest and curiosity level in that whole watery world has grown tremendously thanks to you. 🙂

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Lisa Dorenfest says:
July 28, 2015 at 00:25

Well thank you Lexie! I am delighted to be traveling with you virtually here and on your blogs. When I sail homeward someday, I look forward to meeting you in person in Chi town 🙂

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Steve says:
July 21, 2015 at 01:54

HAPPY BIRTHDAY LISA,
WHAT GREAT SHOTS

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Lisa Dorenfest says:
July 28, 2015 at 01:25

Was thrilled to receive your birthday wishes and wonderful compliment when we returned to internet land….and even better was to Skype with you this morning! Miss you. Fancy a sail to Australia?

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Faraday's Candle says:
July 21, 2015 at 01:56

To witness such beauty!! Thank you so much for sharing!

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Lisa Dorenfest says:
July 27, 2015 at 05:01

Thank you so much for saying so AND thank you for the birthday tweet with the lovely picture! Sorry I didn’t respond earlier. Was in an remote anchorage without internet.

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Faraday's Candle says:
July 27, 2015 at 10:16

That is so awesome! Not many people can say they were in a remote area! Enjoy your life and journey!

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Terri Webster Schrandt says:
July 21, 2015 at 04:00

Stunning photos, Lisa! The waterfall ascent photos look incredible!! And happy, happy birthday, girlfriend!!

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Lisa Dorenfest says:
July 27, 2015 at 05:10

Thank you so much for your lovely and welcome compliments and wonderful birthday wishes. I had wanted to enter this one in The Leisure Link but was afraid I would be without internet (and I was) and couldn’t fully participate (e.g. enjoy the blog posts of others). I look forward to returning to the link- up when it is back on in September and I have sufficient connectivity. Cheers!

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Terri Webster Schrandt says:
July 27, 2015 at 21:13

No problem!! You can still link up through 8/1, if your internet holds out, but no pressure, as you sail the high seas!!

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tgeriatrix says:
July 21, 2015 at 05:53

Happy Birthday! I guess you will take the good wishes even it is late! I enjoy following your travels. And the blue image is just gorgeous! Happy sailing!

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Lisa Dorenfest says:
July 28, 2015 at 01:08

Thank you so much for the birthday wishes and lovely compliment! Birthday wishes are welcome whenever they come!

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brittabottle says:
July 21, 2015 at 14:07

Happy, happy birthday, Lisa! How special to celebrate two days in a row. 🙂 So glad to hear you are doing well and your adventures sound so wonderful. I especially love your last picture of sunset in Paradise. Absolutely gorgeous…looks like a painting.

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Lisa Dorenfest says:
July 28, 2015 at 01:57

Well thank you Britta for your birthday greeting and for your compliment! Always a pleasure to hear from you ?

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brittabottle says:
July 28, 2015 at 20:05

Of course! So good to hear from you, too, and hope all is well out at sea. 🙂

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Latitude Adjustment: Two Wanderers in Panama says:
July 21, 2015 at 22:38

Happy Birthday!
Your photos are eye catching and warming to the heart!

We had our boat for 6 years and covered 7800 NM. Now me thinks time to escape dirt world again and continue where we left off on our adventure.
July 19th your BD? I celebrated my BD yesterday, July 20th.

Kindred spirits I suspect in many ways.

Fair winds and following seas!

John & Susna

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Lisa Dorenfest says:
July 28, 2015 at 02:01

??? Happy (Belated) Birthday! Kindred spirits indeed ⛵️. Six years on-board is very impressive. Would love to see you out here again although it seems like your land adventure is wonderfully fun as well! Really pleased you liked the photos.

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Cardinal Guzman says:
August 1, 2015 at 21:11

Hehe. Celebrating your birthday two days in a row. Sneaky you! 😀

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Lisa Dorenfest says:
August 1, 2015 at 21:20

😉

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LDG luciledegodoy says:
August 2, 2015 at 07:36

Happy belated birthday, Lisa. That was a great celebration in paradise. I wish you continued health, happiness and many more adventures circumnavigating the world.

This post is enticing and kept me reading it and looking at all photos countless times. Stunning photos! What a calm water and magic scenery.
Although the pacific is not sweats like that, it can only have been a birthday gift for you from Neptune. Well deserved.

Your friends were really anxious about the bad news and what a relief to fear that it was another boat. Friendship is a precious gift too.

My dearest, keep enjoying paradise. I’m grateful for your kindness to share it with us. You have so much beauty surrounding you.

Greetings from Amsterdam.
Lucile

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Lisa Dorenfest says:
August 3, 2015 at 04:36

I think you are a birthday gift from Neptune Lucile :-). A welcome friend in the virtual anchorage. I am encouraged by your kindness and transported by your artistic talents.

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LDG luciledegodoy says:
August 4, 2015 at 07:22

Lisa, your words are heartwarming and I’m grateful and honored to deserve them.
It’s so fascinating to have met only virtually and yet feel connected to you like an old soul and friend.
Contrary to the believers of the malefic effects of social media, here on the blogosphere we bloggers are experiencing how we can truly connect on a human level, and build friendships virtually, which surely will extend to meetings in person.
I’ve already met Desley, Mara, Justine, Andy and Veronica, all fantastic human beings and
Bloggers.
One day I will have the honor to meet you too! That’s in my must do list. ?

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Lisa Dorenfest says:
August 4, 2015 at 08:42

Likewise ;-). Looking forward to that day.

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LDG luciledegodoy says:
August 5, 2015 at 11:10

?

dunelight says:
August 4, 2015 at 00:59

I have been so busy learning sailing that I haven’t been on WordPress for almost a month. Happy Belated Birthday(s).

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Lisa Dorenfest says:
August 4, 2015 at 06:40

I am delighted to know that you are honing your sailing skills and are preparing for your first cross lakes race (per your latest post)! So excited. Can’t wait to hear the results. Thanks for the birthday wishes 🙂

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rosemaylily2014 says:
August 8, 2015 at 04:11

What an incredible account of an amazing journey Lisa – I’m spellbound by your stories and the wonderful photos you’ve taken! Paradise is an apt name for the resort you briefly stopped off in I’m sure! Also belated “Happy Birthday” greetings! Great that you could celebrate 2 days in a row 🙂

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Lisa Dorenfest says:
August 8, 2015 at 04:29

? Thank you so much Rosemary for the birthday wishes and wonderful compliments ?

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The Boss Book Club says:
August 16, 2015 at 10:07

Wow, those photos are gorgeous! I loved that one of the fish nibbling at the cabbage underwater. It looks amazing, wish I could go there! Thank you for the post

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Lisa Dorenfest says:
August 16, 2015 at 23:17

I am so pleased that you liked the images. Thank you so much for your lovely compliment! Greatly appreciated ?

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Carrie Ann | Should Be Cruising says:
March 6, 2020 at 13:16

The snorkeling here looks absolutely amazing! I’m always underwhelmed by my own snorkeling photos. They never seem to quite capture the brilliance and beauty that I saw with my own eyes. Thanks for writing about this place – Paradise is now going on my snorkeling bucket list!

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Lisa Dorenfest says:
March 7, 2020 at 18:52

Snorkeling pictures are seriously tricky. My skills have gotten better over time, but I still take mostly horrible shots. What was good about Fiji was the shallow reefs and walled drop-offs that allowed closer proximity to the subjects. Also, the waters did not seem overfished at the time. The fish were abundant and more curious than scared. And the coral was super healthy. I highly recommend a visit to Paradise (or Namena Island). Great people. Amazing underwater world.

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