April in Phuket

Sailing By Ko Sire in Phuket

April found us in Phuket for the first round of Amandla’s refit. We are so happy with our choice to bring her to Phuket Boat Lagoon for repairs. While initial cost estimates were higher here than in other dockyards we’d considered in Malaysia and Thailand, our very positive experience compared to that of fellow sailors who opted for the ‘less expensive yards’ lead us to believe that our total cost, in the end, was lower.

Assisted Entry In The Shallow Boat Lagoon Channel Due To Engine Issues

Every delivery was on time to specification. The list of repairs was a long one, but shorter than originally anticipated including:

  • Fuel Tank replacement fabricated in stainless, windlass back panel, and anchor chain roller by Precision Shipwright
  • Yanmar engine maintenance and turbo cleaning  by C&C Marine
  • Yamaha outboard maintenance and cleaning by Yamaha Marine
  • New plexiglass for hatches and new wooden instrument panel by Phuket Interwoodwork (they also did an amazing job painting our friend SY Grasshopper’s hull)
  • UV replacement with Sunbrella ™ by Rolly Tasker
  • Freezer by Ao (+66 (0) 810 839 743)
  • Boat cover repair by Canvas Creations 
  • Alternator Repair 2x and electrical connection for the windlass by Octopus Electrical Service
  • Bottom cleaning and general handyman support from Wat (+66 (0) 86 503 789)
  • New Lofran Tiger ™ anchor windlass installation by The Captain
Captain Assessing New Genoa UV At Rolly Tasker

Amandla was in total disarray during the refit, so we stayed at our friends, Cheri and Jeff from SY Grasshopper for a week while they traveled Thailand and subsequently rented an apartment at the marina. When wanderlust is a lifestyle, a stationary existence with air-conditioning and endless supplies of running water is a vacation. I barely left the place except to assist The Captain as needed.

Residential Outback – Boat Lagoon

While most of our time outside the marina was spent visiting hardware stores, auto parts suppliers, sail makers and the like, we did manage to get out for a day of touring with the crew of SY Grasshopper. On our way to see Phuket’s famous Big Buddha, I suggested a detour in order to view Phuket from atop Radar Hill. Unfortunately, there were no views to be had as the fog rolled in just as we were nearing the top …and some in our touring party were put off by ‘no trespassing signs’ lining the roadway (even though the radar is on a military base, the top of Radar Hill is WAY before the ‘forbidden zone’) and didn’t want to go further.

Inside Wat Silsuparam Temple

But all was not lost!

As we made our way from Radar Hill toward the Big Buddha, we happened upon Wat Silsuparam and stopped to take a few photographs of the beautiful temple.

Dancers At Wat Silsuparam
For Cardinal Guzman’s The Changing Seasons ‘April

While we were walking the grounds, we noticed an early morning celebration was underway.

Apparently, we had wandered into a young monk’s ordination ceremony during the part of the ritual where family and friends cut pieces of his hair and bless him for a prosperous future.

Blessed

Following the ceremonial haircut, the candidate’s head and eyebrows are shaved as a symbolic renouncement of worldly goods. But we missed that part of the rite and all those that followed.

Rite of Passage

Although the welcoming family and friends invited us to stay, ‘time’ did not permit us to linger for the remainder of the extensive ceremony. If I had the opportunity to do it all over again, I would let time wait.

Phra Puttamingmongkol Akenakkiri Buddha Up Close

We continued onward from Wat Silsuparam and completed our journey to the famous Big Buddha (Phra Puttamingmongkol Akenakkiri Buddha). We first spied the Big Buddha from far away while sailing into Chalong and have wanted to visit ever since.

Big Buddha Viewed From Sea

This revered landmark was built in 2004 of reinforced concrete covered with small white marble tiles and funded primarily by donations. While the Buddha image is complete, small tiles are still being painstakingly applied at its base. Messages are written inside the tiles that can be purchased by visitors for a small donation.

From the Big Buddha, we headed into charming Old Phuket Town for a lunch and a wander.

With this portion of Amandla’s refit primarily complete, our time in Phuket (and our life as apartment dwellers) is coming to a close. We plan to set sail on 2 May and hand steer our way back to Penang where we will have our instruments replaced (we lost our two autopilots and several other instruments in an electromagnetic surge in Port Dickson, Malaysia back in February). Then it is onward to Pangkor where we will put Amandla on ‘the hard’ (dry dock storage) for six months so we can enjoy a bit of land travel in the region before finishing the refit and heading out across the Indian Ocean in early 2018.

Broom in hand, I’m heading over to Amandla for one last thorough top-to-bottom cleaning before we get underway.

Broom Vendor On The Streets Of Chalong

Submitted for Cardinal Guzman’s ‘The Changing Seasons‘ and the Daily Post Weekly Photo Challenge ‘Wanderlust

85 comments April in Phuket

Britta says:

Oh my gosh, Lisa, what an amazing cultural experience, watching the monk’s ordination ceremony. I know nothing about monk’s ordination, so thanks for teaching me something new today. 🙂
I never made it to the White Buddha in Phuket, but I was able to see a similar structure in Pai, which is in Northern Thailand. Best of luck as you continue with boat repairs and the rest of your travels! Enjoy your remaining time in Phuket. I eagerly anticipate more pictures!

Stumbling upon this young monk’s rite of passage was definitely the number one highlight of our time in Phuket. I am still kicking myself for sticking to our original schedule and not staying for the whole ceremony ?. Opportunities like that don’t often present themselves.

I just looked up your Pai Buddha. Quite serene. Am hoping our travels take us that way. We are strongly considering a road trip from Malaysia to Myanmar via Thailand in June. So much to see here. Any ‘don’t miss’ tips you could give us from your experiences would be greatly appreciated.

Stage one of our boat repairs are complete and we are now furiously cleaning Amandla so she is ship-shape for our sailing journey southward.

Britta says:

oh my goodness, a road trip through those three countries sounds amazing! A couple of my Thailand friend road from Thailand to Malaysia via motorbike and from what I know, they had an incredible experience. I have so many places to recommend. If you have the ability to, I recommend going to every region of Thailand (North, South, Central, Isan). Each is so culturally rich in their own ways. My favorite region is Northern Thailand (perhaps because it’s where I started out in my TESOL course–I HIGHLY recommend Chiang Mai), but it’s worth checking out all of them.

Britta says:

Nakhon Pathom is where I lived and taught. It’s forty-five minutes away from Bangkok, off the main tourist path, and a cultural treasure trove. Highly recommend.

It looks like a place I don’t want to miss ?

Adding it to the list! It looks magical.

Britta says:

So happy to hear that! It’s a special place.

Margo says:

Steve told me about your encounter with Mother Nature. I am so sorry you lost all your instruments. It sounds as though you went to the right place to get your repairs done.

Your photos are so colorful and full of life. The photos of the Buddas bring back memories of our trip to Thailand where we saw Buddas in every position and in every material. We never made it to Phuket, however.

Have a safe sail to Penang!

Fondly,
Margo

The good news on the instruments is that now we will have brand new ones to shepherd us across the Indian Ocean next year. Our old ones would have gotten us there, but new ones make us feel that much more secure.

Buddhas (and color) are definitely plentiful in Thailand…and so far, we have only been to Phuket :-). We hope that your and Steve’s travel adventures find you somewhere along our route in the next year or two. Would be great to see you both again.

??

Phuket seems quite beautiful. I had no idea. (I really need to start planning a serious Asia trip).
Penang? My great-uncle got married there in the 30’s before he became Chief of Police of Singapur.
(My family was soooo British Empire!) 🙂
I have a fellow blogger from Penang, on whose illustrations I have written two short stories.
Definitely want to visit.
Fair winds, bon vent to you on May 2nd.
Brian

You really do need to start planning a serious Asia trip Brian! You would LOVE it here – especially with the family history.
I first enjoyed your ‘Night In Penang’ while still docked in Sydney before I had made my way to SE Asia. I just had a look at it again the words about Stéphanie’s history as well as Tiffany’s pictures have so much more meaning for me now that I have visited. Before the story seemed to be set in a far away foreign land…now it is starting to feel a bit like home. Can’t wait to go back to Georgetown. Love it there.

Thank you for the bon voyage wishes!

Terima kasih. (Merci)
Yes, I do have a great curiosity about Georgetown. Now that I’ve written the story about a place I’ve never been, I really need to go. 😉

YES!

Glad everything is on the upswing for you! Love the temple images–I have seen them in many shows about Thailand. Thailand looks amazing–with all the color. I am following your adventures and hope you get to see some great street art in Penang. Can’t wait to see images of you land travels too.

?? Thailand is definitely colorful. I look forward to seeing more of it on our June road trip and when we sail back here in December. You’ve reminded me that I want to post a Penang street art gallery …have some good ones from Melaka and Phuket as well.

[…] April in Phuket […]

nowathome says:

Lisa, you are really having a wonderful experience wherever you go!!! Glad you had a bit of a holiday as you say!! Enjoy the time that lies ahead!! Can not wait for next year!!

?? I look forward to next year too Aletta and am hopeful we can meet in person when I get to South Africa ??

Ladybuggz says:

Great Post Lisa! Wonderful Place…glad you got a bit of time to be a tourist! Be Safe my friend! Happy Sailing! Send my regards to the Captain! <3 T.

Ahoy there Teresa! Always a pleasure to hear from you! Thailand is beautiful indeed. Can’t wait to see more of it during our land travels and when we bring the boat back here at the end of the year.

What an April you had, Lisa. I read the entire post rapt with attention. Good to hear Amandla has gotten repairs and hopefully she will is right and ready for future sails. It does look like a long list of repairs, but then again you and crew have been on the road, or rather sailing the waters for a while now. Sort of like moving house, and you are upgrading 😀

What a great experience enroute to the Big Buddha. The locals sound so welcoming and even the guy who sells brooms gave you such a friendly thumbs up. Nothing but kindness and hospitality your way. This sailing adventure was meant to be 🙂 Hope you have a good time in Malaysia and the rest of Asia. Indian Ocean and beyond for next year. So, so, so excited for you. Mr Wobbles and crew down here in Melbourne wishes all of you bon voyage. The monkey waves at you furiously and wishes he could give you some of his too-many bananas 🙂 ?????

Ahoy Mabel and First Mate Mr. Wobbles ?⚓️⛵️! Thailand has definitely been welcoming, fully living up to its tagline #landofsmiles. I recently read that Thai’s have 13 different smiles. I am so looking forward to returning here to experience more smiles during our land travels and with Amandla at the end of the year. And we are certain to have a great time on our return visit to Malaysia. Thank Mr. Wobbles for the virtual bananas ?

Such a wonderful article, and thank you so much for sharing. A smile may not be all that it seems, just as your sailing life is not all smooth but you hit waves every now and then. I am sure you and crew will have a wonderful time on land, and land travel will be fun – I remember you told me you don’t like planes 🙂 Mr Wobbles is flattered to be given the honour of First Mate. But he is a bit insulted that you called his bananas ‘virtual bananas’. He wanted to package and send you and Amandla crew the real deal – he is a monkey that doesn’t do things half-hearted ???

Well, Mr. Wobbles is most certainly a generous monkey to offer to share his actual banana stores with me. I wish I had a permanent home where he could ship them ??. But we set sail tomorrow and it will be awhile before we are anywhere permanent for awhile ??⛵️.

Abby Caedo says:

I’m so happy the Amandla is getting some TLC and that you and the Captain had some land time! I always look forward to hearing about your travels. Otto ? and I miss you dearly.

I so miss my baby boy and wish I was enjoying a lovely Spring walk/game of fetch with you both in Riverside Park today (or maybe a subway tour as the weather looks a bit wet ☔️?). Amandla is as good as new! She requires a few more repairs and a fresh coat of bottom paint but that can wait until November. Come visit! Your berth is waiting.

Liesbet says:

Glad the refit was successful and you made the right yard choice. That ceremony sure was a unique experience! But, when you travel in a group, it is much harder to follow your instincts and stay in or go to the places you would like to focus on, personally. I’m glad you managed to have some play as well, this month, and that you got to soak up the comforts of land life. I know exactly what you mean there! 🙂 Here’s to a successful refit part 2 and happy land travels!!

You more than most would totally understand what a treat it was for us to revel in creature comforts for the month and how lucky we were to have had a ‘dream’ boat refit given how often these things can turn into a nightmare. All systems look ‘go’ for 2 May and while I will miss land life, I am looking forward to our upcoming adventures. Thanks for the good wishes. Big hug to Mark.

lexklein says:

You saved a treat for the end: that photo of the broom man! I loooove that image. I did not realize you guys were going to be spending six months gallivanting on land and totally dry-docking the boat, but that is awesome! Is this the time period in which you might go to Tibet? I know you have lots of other considerations and decisions to make about life in the next year, but how exciting to have this sailing hiatus in any case. More free-flowing water for you! 🙂 You are such a trooper with all the boat work, and I’m glad you got out for some cultural exploration (love the rite of passage ceremony). Great to see your update here today!

I am delighted you like my broom man. I saw him the day before I wrote the post (the universe again throwing me a bone). He perfectly depicts the heart and soul of Phuket and makes me look forward to returning to this place again soon. I totally want to go to Tibet, as well as Nepal, Bhutan, Laos, Vietnam, Cambodia, Myanmar, and China. The ultimate for me would be to take the Friendship Highway from Tibet to Nepal, but it is still closed at the Nepal border. We are thinking land travel in Thailand and Myanmar in June, back to Penang for The Captain’s scans in July and then onward to ??? thereafter. Still planning. Watch this space.

Mark says:

We always really enjoy the pictures associated with your posts.

Mark and Cindy
sv Cream Puff

You are lovely to say so! Thank you so much. And congrats on your recent catch ⛵️??

Mary says:

Wonderful update and love your photo’s! Sailing is surely an adventure that you and the Captain have embraced.
Heading to Tahiti today for a week, will be on the island of Moorea. Have camera bag packed!
Safe travels & much aloha,
Mary

OMG so excited to see your Moorea pictures! We loved it there. Thank you for the love and support. Have I mentioned to you that our goal is to make our way back to the Isle of Big under sail? It will be a few years but we are coming your way. Big hug to Bill and Baby Ava

Hi Lisa. Amandla will be a new boat by the time you are finished. She wont know herself. Our trip to Thailand was brief (a week), by plane and in a group with major timelines and whilst the Buddha’s we saw were amazing, we eventually got sick of them and temples (the itinerary the choice of the local guide). As usual great to read your travels and I agree with an earlier comment, the photo of the broom man is terrific. It should be inspiring me..we are heading back to Sengo today to start cleaning her up after The Wet. Much love to you and The Captain. Xxx Trish

Ahoy Trish (and Andrew) – so great to hear from you! My what an adventure you have been having. But as I said on your blog, I am so glad that Sengo was comfortably tucked in Darwin while you were land traveling in Queensland. I can’t believe it has almost been a year since we met you in Australia – times flies way too fast. Your recent post brought back many fond memories of Australia (and added many places to the ‘visit’ list next time around). May you be able to bring Sengo back to life quickly and be out on the water sailing again soon. Thank you so much for the lovely compliment on Broom Man 😉

Great photos! And that ending photo of the brooms…unexpected and wonderful image!

Thank you so much for your visit and kind compliment Sue!

Those Buddhas are incredible! I thought the gold ones were beautiful, but the one covered in tiles is so lovely – and thank you for providing a idea of its massive scale with the picture shot from afar. I’m glad the refit went well – “on time, to specification” is worth every penny. I am looking forward to posts and your beautiful pictures documenting your upcoming land travel.

They really are magnificent Janis! I am so looking forward to seeing the Big Buddha from the sea when we set sail from here on 2 May. And we have so many Buddhas in our future! I am so pleased that you will be joining us virtually on our road-trip. Do you all have any trips coming up?

Marjorie Moeling says:

Phuket is my favorite place on earth! When I went there for a medical meeting, I was enchanted and returned for a vacation. If you haven’t seen them yet, the Elephant Sanctuary and Ko Phi Phi are two memorable places. Maybe not so much with all you’ve seen, but I thought I’d mention them. Have a wonderful stay!

Ha! I had heard of The Elephant Jungle Sanctuary in Chang Mai and it is on our list of places to go when we land travel Thailand. But I did not know they had a sanctuary in Phuket as well! I’ll have to visit there when we make our way back to Phuket under sail at the end of the year. Our first stop after we sail out of Boat Lagoon Marina is Ko Phi Phi. We passed it on our way here and it was breathtaking. Looking forward to stopping there on our way out.

Gosh Lisa, where do I start, that hasn’t already been said in the comments! First, glad to see your post and read about your adventures, and of course to be inspired by your lovely photography! Life at sea seems wonderful, and to be able to share your journeys must feel amazing. You really should include these posts and photos into a book of some kind. Glad you enjoyed being a land lubber for a few days. Cheers to you and bon voyage , until the next time ?

??? Thank you for the love Terri! How awesome would it be if your ” target=”_blank”>’lust for travel’ brought you our way for a visit (hint hint). Life at sea is wonderful indeed.

themofman says:

If you were in the northern hemisphere right now, I’d call that a major spring cleaning.

It may not feel like Spring here in Phuket with the intensity of the tropical heat, but we are now 7° 57′ 6.84″ North of the equator. We’ve crossed four times during our circumnavigation (South to Galapagos in May 2013, North to Hawaii in November 2013, South to French Polynesia in April 2014 and North to Singapore in October 2016). Our plan is to cross four more times before we are done with this journey…and I am certain we will have a few more Spring cleanings along the way.

Mark says:

Lisa, yet more wonderful photographs to bring your stories to life but I may avoid some of the young monks hairdressers as they only seem to know one style.

?✂️? Honest to goodness Mark, I thought of you when we happened upon this Monk’s ordination ceremony. Back in 2015 when we were in Fiji, you left a comment on my blog …’How comes that where ever you go you seem to end up in a festival or parade. Are they putting them on just for you’? Every time I get lucky enough to unexpectedly happen upon a celebration, I remember that comment and smile.

Your posts are always so breathtaking, Lisa, but this one is extra-special somehow – being set against the context of the boat repairs. So much to mend. It was probably that list that indirectly conveyed to me a great whooshing sense of your wayfarer spirit, and all of life’s experiences that wandering involves. And the marvels you encounter, whether by happenstance or design. Magic. And as Brian says: ‘bon vent’ for your onward travels.

I am moved by your eloquence Tish. You’ve just made me feel sensational with your words. Thank you.

Gorgeous photos!! I got to finally visit Phuket through your post. Last year I had to drop out of a 1000 km bike tour from Bangkok to Phuket after I broke my collarbone while training. I’m still bitter :/

I read with interest your comments about the young monk’s ordination ceremony. That occasionally happens in travel when we have to juggle the original plan against something unexpected encountered along the way. I too have had a few regrets along the way, however it sounds like your time here was very full!

Wow! I am totally impressed that you were signed on to do such a bike journey! Very sad to hear about your collarbone. I am glad to have traveled Phuket with you virtually and hope you make it here in person someday.
The monk’s ordination was my third instance of trying to rush something ‘Buddhist’ that really needed to be savored slowly. Perhaps the universe is trying to tell me something…while I’ve ‘slowed’ down significantly from my former lifestyle in NYC, I think I still have a way to go :-).

I know what you’re saying about slowing down. I think I’m world’s apart from my former career self, but I’m still definitely an adrenaline junkie with a shaky grasp on the idea of going slow.

The only time I really ever fully ‘chill’ is when we are on long, multi-day sailing passages. Nothing to distract me but the waves, birds, and dolphins

Skipah says:

When I grow up I want to be like you!!!!! Amazing, just amazing, I’ve learned more about far east culture through you than in any history/college course I ever took!

Ahoy from Thailand Skipah! We’ve just left Ko Ha Yoi and are sailing to Ko Rok Nai. Thank you for your lovely compliments and RT Gary. Big hug to Sloane and the Miss Madisons

mkvosberg says:

This is so fascinating. I always love your adventures. How serendipitous to wander into a monk’s ordination. How often will that ever happen in your life? I hope your ship is as good as new and you have smooth sailing until your next docking.

Ahoy from Koh Lipe Michele! We’ve made our way down here with a series of day sails from Phuket. It is so lovely we might stay an extra day before sailing onward to Malaysia. Wandering into the monk’s ordination was most definitely serendipitous and a very good reminder from the universe that I need to slow down and savor those special moments when they happen.

I think this is fabulous. Soo good to read your adventures again and sounds like you have some exciting travel coming up soon. Love your photos. The broom guy is classic!

Peta

Delighted by your every word Peta! Thank you. We are in Koh Lipe now having daysailed our way here from Phuket. One more hop to Langkawi, but we like it here, so we think we will stay another day. And I am getting more and more excited to visit Sri Lanka in early 2018 with every one of your posts!

Ohhh wonderful. We look very forward to meeting up with you here! We might be gone January and February, but to soon to tell, so do keep me posted once you know when you might arrive… how very exciting.

Peta

I hope you will get your boat repaired soon. In the meantime staying in Phuket with its charming culture and unique tradition is certainly not bad at all 🙂 Best wishes..

Ahoy There Indah! Phuket was certainly a nice place to stay put for awhile. We ‘threw off the dock lines’ again on May 2nd and have slowly been making our way back to Malaysia. We are in Koh Lipe now and it very pretty so we think we will stay an extra day before heading onward. I absolutely loved your latest post on diving the Big Island of Hawaii and look forward to making our way back there again someday.

Every post is an adventure with you, Lisa! So sorry to be so late to this one, but you sound like you have yourselves well planned for the foreseeable future. My life has been like a seesaw just lately but I think we’re entering calm waters again… 🙂 🙂 What a wonderful experience with the young monk. I have had Thailand on my list since the beginning of time. Thank you for your generous shares and for lugging a barrelful of hugs halfway around the world. 🙂

Thank you for your barrelful of hugs and absolutely no need to apologize Jo! I know you are always close by and visit when you can. I am glad to hear that you are seeing calm waters off your bow! We are in Koh Lipe now heading back to Malaysia, but will travel Thailand by land in the coming months and will bring the boat back this way again at year end before heading out across the Indian. Maybe I will get lucky and you will check Thailand off your list before we leave ?

That amazing thought will see me through the day 🙂 🙂

Another great report. Ahh the adventure of cruising, sunsets, new anchorages, new people, and adventures. And oh yea those darn boat repairs and upgrades! Hope they are speedy and inexpensive..!

Ahoy John and Susan! As you know, cruising means ‘fixing the boat in many exotic locations’. Lucky for us, Phuket was the right place to refit Amandla. The quality (and extent) of the boat repairs have allowed us a SLOW, headache free return to Malaysia through Thailand’s endless blue waters. We are in Koh Lipe now and looking forward to a snorkel this afternoon. Off to see how life is treating you both in Panama now.

Paula says:

Gorgeous images and experiences, Lisa. I am glad to see that you guys are fine and heading on with your plans.

? Thank you for the love Paula! Happy to report that we are enjoying a lovely, incident free sail back to Malaysia. Sad to leave Thailand but we will be back.

I’ve never been but this sound like a great experience.

I hope you visit one day. Would love to see your photographs of the place.

Amy says:

What a fabulous adventure, Lisa. I love to visit Phuket in the future!
I, too, had a great experience traveling Thailand. 🙂

I remember seeing some Bangkok images and just went back for a quick visit to more of your Thailand posts. We will be back in Malaysia today, but will return to Thailand for more touring by land and by sea. Good to know I have your blog as a reference for planning our future travels.

Wonderful post. Thailand is just a brilliant place.

Ahoy from Pangkor, Malaysia Max! We had a slow sail down here, lingering at a few Thai Islands along our way. Now we are closing the boat for six months to travel by land with plans to visit Thailand again a couple of times before we head out across the Indian Ocean in January 2018.

Such amazing adventures Lisa! The big Buddha is astonishing. I am hopeful all the boat repairs are holding steady as you sail on toward new adventures. Sending hugs across the miles.

Ahoy from Pangkor, Malaysia. Hugs received and welcome. The boat repairs held steady and got us here worry free. We lingered a bit as we made our way back south from Thailand to Malaysia, but we’ve really only just scratched the surface of the place. Look forward to exploring more deeply during our upcoming land travels and again by sea later this year. Hope to see you and Dave traveling in SE Asia next year!!!

Phuket is always spectacular, in every season! You had a great adventure, Lisa!

We did indeed! Phuket is an amazing place to have boat work done and offerest so many visual delights for those that manage to take time off from boat work to see the place.

Welcome onland. For six months, you say – one gone already – imagine that. It is firm, remember how that is like? 😉 Do the walls still appear to be spinning when on the toilet? I remember that the most, and I was only on the sea for a week. Happy travels, the sea will wait.

We’ve gotten over the ‘land-sickness’ and are looking forward to some travel. Just got the good news that The Captain’s latest cancer scans are clear. SE Asia here we come.

MNL says:

I like how Buddha’s face changes from country to country. this one looks a lot different from the other’s I have seen in Japan.

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