Lisa Dorenfest

One Ocean At A Time

Suva

Monochrome Lami Bay

Monochromatic Lami Bay

After a very enjoyable sail through the Yasawas, we took up residence in Denarau to have a new bimini built.

Once we handed over the old bimini and the new Sunbrella to our very capable designer, Mohammed from Marshall Sails, we hopped a bus and headed to Suva, the nation’s capital, for a few nights.

Reflections of Lami Bay

Reflections in Lami Bay

We anchored off Lami Bay, but this time, at the Novetel rather than on Amandla. It was a good change of pace to view the ships from the shore, sleep in a stationary bed, and take long, hot showers.

While in Suva, we visited the Botanic Gardens, Fiji Museum, Grand Pacific Hotel (a landmark) and the Suva Royal Yacht Club. But my favorite bits were walking the streets of Suva and watching a parade celebrating 160 years of Chinese in Fiji.

Waiting On A Friend

Waiting On A Friend

According to a placard at the Fiji Museum, Moy Bak Ling from Duang Feng was the first Chinese businessman in Fiji:

Moy Bak Ling went to Australia as a 17 year old to dig for gold in Ballarat along with 10,000 other Chinese, but the conditions at the mines were so bad that he took off to Fiji.  He sailed solo as a 20 year old from Ballarat, Australia to Levuka in 1855. A carpenter by profession, Moy Bak Ling’s shop in Levuka was the first Chinese business to set up in Fiji.

Moy Bak Ling With Family Image Courtesy Fiji Museum

Moy Bak Ling With Family
Image Courtesy Fiji Museum

The population of Chinese in Fiji remains small (1 % of the overall ) but given the turnout for and participation in this parade, they are clearly an integral part of society here.

For me, one of the best aspects of the parade was seeing historically divided ethnic groups (Indigenous Fijians and Indo-Fijians) marching happily together with the Chinese in celebration of the anniversary. What’s driving this societal transformation?

I think that the Grand Marshall put it best when he said to me at the end of the parade ‘Fiji’s Youth Is Change’.

Before we knew it, we were headed back to Denarau to install the new bimini and make final preparations for our passage to New Caledonia.

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59 Comments

  1. brittabottle September 19, 2015

    Lami Bay looks gorgeous! Or maybe you’re just a fantastic photographer. 🙂

    The parade looks like it was so much fun, Lisa. Ah, seeing your photos is getting me so excited for my own travels!

    • Lisa Dorenfest September 19, 2015 — Post Author

      ?Trust me, the photos turned out so well because Lami Bay is gorgeous. The lighting was perfect and the bay was unusually dead calm. And it was only for a moment. After the boat passed, the bay decided to stop looking like a lake and returned to looking like the sea. I can not wait to see Thailand through your lens Britta. Only a few days now. I am certain you will find so much fun to photograph and write about. Bon Voyage!

  2. Mark Roope September 19, 2015

    How comes that where ever you go you seem to end up in a festival or parade. Are they putting them on just for you. Wonderful photos as ever Lisa.

    • Lisa Dorenfest September 19, 2015 — Post Author

      ?Either I am just lucky or there it’s that there is always something to celebrate in the South Pacific ?. Thank you for your lovely compliment. I hope you find a sponsor for your dinghy replacement soon although it would be quite entertaining to see you all commuting to shore on Wicked Wanda.

  3. Indah Susanti September 19, 2015

    The parade looks so fun! I wish to visit Fiji someday but maybe it will never happen, so I am happy to virtually visiting Fiji through your post 🙂 Thank you so much for sharing!!

    • Lisa Dorenfest September 19, 2015 — Post Author

      ? Thank you Indah! I do hope you can visit Fiji someday. Would love to see the snorkeling/dive spots captured through your lens. There are so many great spots here. Unfortunately, I was only able to get to a few (Rainbow Reef, Namena, and Naviti) but missed so many more. You can see all of them here ?

  4. Anabel Marsh September 19, 2015

    The Lami Bay pictures are just beautiful! So calming to see.

    • Lisa Dorenfest September 19, 2015 — Post Author

      Am delighted that you think so Anabel. It was unusually calm in Lami Bay the day I took those pictures. Usually, it looks more like a sea and less like a lake. Lucky shots!

  5. Frankie Beane September 19, 2015

    Great pics. Glad to hear that Fiji is moving on.I met a great many Fijians around the world who had been driven out by the problems–Fijian, Indo-Fijians, Chinese-Fijians. It was almost a joke (almost) to ask how many coups there had been in Fiji. It is such a beautiful country and the people are nice.

  6. Gallivanta September 19, 2015

    What a treat to read your post today, and to learn some more about the history of the Chinese in Fiji. I lived for awhile at Lami township. We were very close to the sea. Your photos of the sea brought back happy memories.

    • Lisa Dorenfest September 20, 2015 — Post Author

      Well I am delighted that you found this post to be a treat Ann and that it brought back such good memories. I am glad that we had a chance to sleep in Lami rather than in Suva. We got to enjoy ‘the big city’ during the day (as Suva is a close, inexpensive cab ride away) and the tranquility of Lami in the evening.It is a beautiful area. Only 3 more days until springtime is upon you. Looking forward to seeing more blooms on your page!

  7. LDG luciledegodoy September 19, 2015

    Hey Lisa! Have missed seeing you and your blissful photos on the blogosphere!
    The monochromatic photo needs to be featured! Jaw dropping…
    Thanks for letting me know so much about Fiji’s culture and sights. It’s very interesting to learn about their history.
    I heard from Michelle about your meeting! Fantastic!
    Keep enjoying and thanks for making my weekend sunnier and warmer, through these pics.
    Cheers!

    • Lisa Dorenfest September 20, 2015 — Post Author

      You have once again mede me smile from ear to ear Lucile! Thank you for your lovely compliment. Meeting Michelle was an absolute highlight of my time in Fiji! My next post will include my time with her (and is slated to be checked into your Photo101Rehab Clinic). And she also seems keen on your visiting Australia, so now it is just a matter of logistics.

  8. Liesbet September 19, 2015

    Another portion of color and culture for you, Lisa! Beautifully represented in your post, as always!! I hope the bimini is finished and you can continue your journey west soon. xx

    • Lisa Dorenfest September 20, 2015 — Post Author

      ?Thank you Liesbet! The bimini is complete and we are now preparing to go. It seems we never stop cleaning and fixing. You know the drill. The weather may keep us here until Friday or Monday. Can not wait to see your blogpost on your trip to St Petersburg. From your mail it sounds lovely (albeit jam packed). Miss you. Hugs to Mark.

  9. Mabel Kwong September 19, 2015

    That certainly looks like a heartwarming parade. So many happy faces and the kids look like they are having a great time. I didn’t know the Chinese population was so small in Fiji. In fact, i wasn’t even aware that there was even a Chinese population there. From the photos, it also looked like some non-Chinese took part in the parade too. There is certainly a multicultural and inclusive vibe there in Fiji.

    Great photos, Lisa. You captured the celebratory spirit so well 🙂

    • Lisa Dorenfest September 20, 2015 — Post Author

      This event was most definitely inclusive all around Mabel! It was wonderful to witness. But I am looking forward to the day when ‘multicultural and inclusive’ become so much a part of our reality that such moments are no longer ‘newsworthy’. Thank you so much for your visit and kind feedback.

  10. Terri Webster Schrandt September 19, 2015

    Lisa and her awesome life! Gorgeous photos and what a cool parade. Seems there are always celebrations on the islands you visit. How cool to be immersed in local culture and to record these on your blog! Nice seeing you 🙂

    • Lisa Dorenfest September 20, 2015 — Post Author

      Your ‘Lisa and her awesome life’ comment totally cracked me up. There are moments out here when that seems like the furthest thing from the truth, but in general, life is good. And the South Pacific is definitely a festive place. I am lucky to have experienced it. Thank you so much for your kind words and your retweet! It is always a pleasure to see you here!

      • Terri Webster Schrandt September 20, 2015

        Well, it looks awesome from this angle! You must be making up for lost internet time today! Hope the rest of the your day is wonderful!

        • Lisa Dorenfest September 20, 2015 — Post Author

          ? I am playing catching up. We have most of our boat work behind us now and are waiting for a weather window to depart for New Caledonia. It is raining here today (much needed) so that is keeping us inside rather than touring about.

  11. Retirementallychallenged.com September 19, 2015

    Great pics as usual. I love all of the colors and the wonderful faces. I have no idea what a bimini is, but it’s good you needed a new one so you had an excuse to visit Suva for a few nights.

    • Lisa Dorenfest September 20, 2015 — Post Author

      Thank you as always for your generous compliments! A bimini is the protective cover over the cockpit of the boat which serves us well in rain or sun. And it was definitely good to have an excuse to visit Suva ?.

  12. Retirement Lifestyle / Nomadic Adventurer September 20, 2015

    Lisa, these are great colorful photos. I love the bright colors of everyone in the parade. 🙂

  13. lexklein September 20, 2015

    I had to look up what a bimini was – I knew it only as the island where my father spent many years fishing! What a wonderful contrast to see the calm, monochromatic bay and the colorful, lively parade. Your days all seem to be visual feasts!

    • Lisa Dorenfest September 20, 2015 — Post Author

      Did you father fish in Bimini in the Bahamas? It is gorgeous there. I sailed there in 2008. The most beautiful blue water that I have ever seen. The place looks photo shopped.

      The South Pacific is also definitely good on the eyes ? but I am struggling with this week’s photo challenge to find good grids here like you have seen in your travels. Loved your submission this week.

      • lexklein September 21, 2015

        Yes, that’s where he fished for many years. He loved it there but now fishes a little closer to home, mostly off the coast of Georgia. I never got there myself, but I would love to go!

        I guess ocean scenery would be light on the grid pattern! How about some fishing nets?!

  14. Lignum Draco September 21, 2015

    Moy Bak Ling sailed solo as a 20 year old from Ballarat to Levuka in 1855 – fascinating history. Thanks for the update.

  15. ledrakenoir September 21, 2015

    Very interesting – and captured photos too… 🙂

  16. Faraday's Candle September 21, 2015

    These photos are just amazing!! Great story like always!

  17. Jeffrey September 22, 2015

    “What’s driving this societal transformation?”

    You can take the sociologist out of the academy…

    • Lisa Dorenfest September 22, 2015 — Post Author

      OMG, I do not remember the last time I laughed so hard! Your comment made me ROAR! Honestly, I find ‘sociology projects’ everywhere.

  18. rxfrazier September 22, 2015

    Great blog post. Lovely photos. The Monochromatic Lami Bay is very beautiful.

  19. Artistami.Eva September 22, 2015

    Lisa, like I said I learn so much from you and your pictures are just wonderful. Thank you so much! I loved Jeffrey’s comment. 😀

    • Lisa Dorenfest September 22, 2015 — Post Author

      Wonderful to hear from you as always Eva. And even more wonderful to see you are posting again! Yay! Thank you for your kind words and for appreciating Jeffrey’s sense of humor!

  20. Amy September 23, 2015

    Enjoyed these wonderful photos, Lisa! Thank you for the historic information. 🙂

  21. badfish September 25, 2015

    Talk about calm seas, that first shot is like a lullaby, eh. I was offline and missed this post, glad I discovered it today!

    • Lisa Dorenfest September 25, 2015 — Post Author

      I thought about you when I took that image because I remembered you liked the ‘Pacific looking pacific’ along the shores of Taveuni and in Viani Bay. How is little Duncan btw. It is always a treat to see the sea in that state. We are lifting anchor today for our 5 night sail to New Caledonia and I hope the sea is a bit more lively along the way.. but not too much. Thanks for you visit Mr Badfish ?.

      • badfish September 26, 2015

        yeah, in a motorboat, flat seas are ever so cool. In a sailboat, no, you want to see that wind slapping some life into the water, eh? But right…not the perfect storm kind of life

        • Lisa Dorenfest October 1, 2015 — Post Author

          Ahoy from New Caledonia! We had good winds for the predominance of our trip. Only experienced 20 hours of lulls and no perfect storms ⛵️

          • badfish October 2, 2015

            Sounds like the gods are smiling on you…again! Do you motor during lulls, or read Kon Tiki?

          • Lisa Dorenfest October 2, 2015 — Post Author

            I love the idea of reading Kon Tiki during lulls but we do tend to motor….mostly because bobbing in rolling seas is uncomfortable but also because, in this case, we wanted to keep up an average speed to make it to Noumea before bad weather hit….and plus, I was really craving pan au chocolate. I wonder if I will crave Kopi Luwak once I sail to Indonesia?

          • badfish October 8, 2015

            Got it. Keep moving. Sounds like the right plan. AND, be prepared to crave kopi luwak!! It’s a winner.

          • badfish October 8, 2015

            Cool. Or is it hot? Keep on keepin on!

  22. restlessjo September 25, 2015

    Wonderful fun, but my favourite photo is that monochrome. It’s a beauty, Lisa! Happy sailing 🙂

    • Lisa Dorenfest September 26, 2015 — Post Author

      Well thank you Jo. I love it when the sky and sea cooperate so beautifully as they did when I took that shot. I hope that they cooperate well (but differently) for the next five days so we can enjoy a passage of fair winds and following seas.

  23. Sue Slaght December 2, 2015

    Love the photos from the parade. Seeing your images definitely fans my excitement for our trip!

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