South Africa Highlights

South Africa. It’s complicated.

It would be folly for me to claim to understand the place after three months. South Africa’s challenges can make it unsettling at times.

But I’ve loved our visit here far more than I ever imagined and would recommend it to any traveler.

We’ve enjoyed it so much that we’ve decided to return here after a bit of land travel in Namibia and Botswana rather than sailing onward by the end of January as originally planned.

Let me share some of the highlights as we make way on our road trip.

The passage from Durban to Cape Town – A Notoriously ‘Treacherous Coast’

After waiting over two weeks for a decent weather window, we finally departed Durban for Cape Town on 14 December. Sadly, our beloved friend and crew Lucio had to return home to Italy and wasn’t able to join us for the last leg of the Indian Ocean.

I’d like to boast of a swashbuckling passage around the southern tip of Africa, telling tales about how ‘we were barely hanging on as we faced storm-force winds head-on with waves crashing over the bow in raging 12-meter seas’ …but in reality, we motored most of the way in flat calm conditions under moonlit skies having timed the weather for comfort and safety well (with many thanks to Des Cason – if you are sailing the Indian Ocean, you want to include him on your virtual crew).

It was somewhat boisterous for the first 28 hours as we sped along under sail on a 4+ knot current in 3-meter seas with a strong breeze (albeit from stern), but far from our toughest passage. The weather was favorable enough to make it from Durban to Cape Town in two hops, anchoring only at Mossel Bay long enough for a short system to pass.

But even if it wasn’t a wild ride, it was still a momentous one. I was euphoric as we passed Cape Agulhas before dawn the morning of the summer solstice, remaining on watch an hour longer just to savor the moment. And the celebration continued as we sailed around The Cape of Good Hope later that day, arriving in Cape Town before the sunset.

7 years ago, I transited The Atlantic for the first time. 5 1/2 years ago, Captain Fabiolous and I left her shores aboard Amandla to sail across the Pacific and Indian. With this passage, we’d returned to The Atlantic once again.

‘Behind The Scene’ Tour with Mapanya Sogoni

Possible. That is the word that comes to mind when I think of Mapanya Sogoni.

A former gang member of the 26s and a one-time inmate at Helderstroom Prison in Caledon, Mapanya now dedicates his time to social change and giving back to his community, in a way where young individuals can be prevented from walking his previous path.

Mapanya gave us a local’s view into Township culture through his Behind The Scene tour with visits to his home base in Guguletu and the surrounding areas of Nyanga, Crossroads, Barcelona, and Heideveld. The tour gave us a deeper understanding of South Africa’s history and life for some here today.

My friend Cheri and I so enjoyed spending time with Mapanya that we took the tour twice! You can watch his sold-out TEDx talk here and learn how he overcame his gangster legacy, transforming himself into an agent for positive change.

Cape Town Street Parade

Good luck found us in prime position for the annual Cape Town Street Parade or “Tweede Nuwe Jaar” (second new year).

This Minstrel Carnival started in the mid 19th century when slaves were given one day off a year (2 January). It continues today to celebrate culture and freedom for all people.

Photographing beautiful people is my thing, and they were here in abundance draped in a rainbow of color, so it was a day of heaven for me.

The Captain was a good sport as I took us on a wild goose chase to get in prime position for pictures.

Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Game Reserve

Within the 30-minutes driving from the reserve entrance to our self-catered cottage, we spotted rhinos, elephants, giraffes and impala grazing along our route.

It just got better from there the next morning when we saw more of the same along with buffalo, lions, zebra, nyala, wildebeest, hippos, warthogs and baboons.

Most of the animals were within 50 meters of us and not at all skittish. Only the lions and hippos (thankfully) were viewed at a greater distance.

I was beside myself with glee at every turn. Even The Captain managed to enjoy himself in spite of his richer experiences photographing wildlife across Tanzania while living there over a two-year period.

My favorite was a very large male elephant who seemed to seek out the cameras, greeting us on three different occasions near the divide between parks.

The only animal missing was the leopard, but I had the good fortune to glimpse one in Sri Lanka to round out my ‘Big 5.

Hiking in Krantzkloof, Central Drakensberg, and Cape Town

Life at sea, often surrounded by blue, beaches, and palm trees had me craving for long walks in verdant mountains and South Africa delivered. The Captain and I spent a few glorious days hiking in Central Drakensberg.

Unfortunately, I accidentally deleted the most awesome pictures (argh!) but the pain of that loss was mitigated by the opportunity to experience the place.

Nearer to Durban (an Uber ride away if you don’t fancy renting a car) I hiked twice at Krantzkloof Reserve. First with my cousins who delighted us with a four-day visit in Durban (Umhlanga) and then with Jan and Rich from SV Slip Away to celebrate Jan’s birthday.

But my favorite ascent was up the somewhat challenging Table Mountain in Cape Town with the crews of SV Wakanui, SV Tehani Li and SV Slip Away where we enjoyed a combination of mountains and sea with resplendent 360 views of Cape Town to savor once we reached the top.

Walking The Bo Kaap

Second only to bluewater sailing, my favorite thing to do is wander the streets with a camera, energized by the awesome people that I meet along my way. Cape Town’s historic Bo Kaap provided the perfect stomping ground with its colorful houses, cobblestoned streets and very friendly residents.

My most enjoyable morning there was spent in the company of Faldie Kalam who shared with me his family’s history in the neighborhood and his continued love for the place today.

The Comfort of Cousins and Condominiums

Every other year, my cousins Penny and Peter circumnavigate the globe (the fast way via air) and delight us with a visit en route wherever we are sailing at the time.

The timing for this go-around had us meet up in Umhlanga, about 20 minutes north of Durban. It was a great excuse to take a bit of shore leave in an affordable apartment near my cousin’s swanky Oyster Box hotel.

The Captain sprung for a studio at The Capital Pearls using points and we were upgraded to a two-bedroom, two-bath with full kitchen and washer/dryer. After months at sea, I found great comfort in a visit from family …and in the glorious confines of four walls with two balconies.

Meeting Fellow Bloggers

Brita Siepker – Life is Water

I met Brita virtually in 2014 when I was crossing the Pacific and she was planning to start a life at sea. After years of sharing virtual anchorages, we finally had the opportunity to meet in person both in Richard’s Bay and in Cape Town where she was sailing as crew on Blue Pearl.

She has left me in her wake, sailing onward with the World ARC fleet to Brazil via St Helena and is on track to complete her first circumnavigation in St Lucia in April 2019. I look forward to sharing an anchorage or two with her again in my future.

Aletta Crous  – Now At Home

A shared love of photography and travel brought Aletta and me together virtually as well in 2014. Visual stories from her doorstep in South Africa have had me excited about journeying here ever since. It was a real treat to finally meet up with her and her husband over the holidays in Cape Town. Our meeting gave me additional insight into life in South Africa today.

I’d hoped to see them again for a Braai when we hauled out Amandla in Saldanha near their home, but we will likely defer the haul out until we reach Trinidad.

Wine Country

With delicious, affordable wines in abundance, South Africa has been the perfect place to restock Amandla’s wine stores.

And the wineries are just a hop, skip and a jump from the center of Cape Town, so I had the pleasure to visit a few.

The HoHo Bus ferried us to the closest ones with our friend Cheri Slotta.

A ‘Rent A Cheapie’ helmed by designated driver Captain Phil Tenney brought us to a few more in Franschhoek.

I would love to find our way to Stellenbosch before we leave here…but just for a visit as Amandla’s wine stores are brimming at this point!

African Penguins

Loved them! To learn more, you can read about them here

Whew! Sorry for the super long post. I could go on and on but I think I’ve taken enough of your time already. I hope I’ve encouraged you to visit South Africa if you have not done so already. And if you have, I hope you’ve enjoyed visiting her once again through my lens.

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I’ll close here with a shout out to the awesome person who nominated me for the 2019 Annual Bloggers Bash ‘Best Travel Blog’ Award. Seriously honored!!! Thank you whoever you are. You rock!