I’ve always wanted to see Victoria Falls.
But The Captain said, “We are never going there. I’ve been, and I don’t want to go again. It’s too far. It’s too expensive. No, absolutely not. Final word. Don’t bring it up again.”
So we were woefully unprepared when we ferried across the Zambezi River from Botswana, arriving at the Kazungula border checkpoint in Zambia shortly before noon.
An organized day trip with a tour company from Botswana to the Zimbabwe side of Victoria Falls cost $100 pp, but two wayfarers we’d met earlier in the day told us the visa cost on the Zambia side was only $20 pp. The price was right, so we decided to go for it on our own. Internet access was unavailable to check for border crossing information online, and I was too distracted by the excitement of getting my way to refer to the Lonely Planet guidebook for additional details.
Still embroiled in the lengthy 2+ hour check-in process at 13h20, the Immigration authorities strongly advised that we opt for the US $50 per person single entry visa as opposed to the US $20-day pass. And then came several other unexpected fees (carbon tax, council tax, insurance, and so-on) totaling an additional US $110 payable in a combination of USD and Zambian Kwacha.
ATMs were not working, so we paid a ‘fixer’ in Botswanan Pula, and he, in turn, paid the Zambian officials in Kwacha. We’d been warned on the Botswana side against using ‘unofficial agents,’ but the fellow we met on the ferry seemed to be the least shiftless of the bunch and actually turned out to be very helpful. We never gave him our papers. We simply let him guide us from desk to desk (and there were many) for a minimal, well-earned tip negotiated upfront.
From the border, we drove 60 km to the comfortable Victoria Falls Waterfront campsite in Mosi-Oa-Tunya National Park and celebrated the start of our seventh year sailing the world together.
Sadly, clouds coupled with intermittent rain greeted us at Victoria Falls the next morning. My desire for blue skies and rainbows had blinded me to the full force of nature rushing over towering cliffs; twice as high as those at Niagara.
Surrounded by magnificence, I could only feel the lack. Rather than delight in the misty spray and marvel at this “scene so lovely [once] gazed upon [only] by angels in their flight,” I chose to mourn the loss of a few Instagram-worthy photos that I would never make here.
Circumstances did not allow us to linger beyond 12h00. The Captain, anticipating delays departing Zambia, wanted to leave with enough time to catch the last ferry to Botswana. We exited the park just as the sun was breaking through the clouds.
It was blue skies and sunshine (everywhere but in my mind) all the way back to Kazungula. The exit from Zambia being expeditiously faster than the entry, we were back on Botswanan soil by 14h30.
We were lucky to find self-catered accommodation at the exceptional Senyati Safari Camp on the Botswana side of the border in Kasane. It cost half of what we’d paid for a patch of dirt at the spartan, in-park campgrounds of Moremi and Savuti we’d visited earlier on our 7000 km road trip. And it had more elephant traffic than anything we’d seen elsewhere in Southern Africa.
As soon as we’d unpacked our bags, the elephants started to arrive. First, there was one, then two, and then three, gathering at the watering hole.
After that, herds of elephants came toward us as they made way onward seeking water to drink.
More came as the sun began to set and continued onward into the twilight with over a hundred making way through our backyard. You can find the parade in action on Amandla’s YouTube channel.
As night fell, the elephants were joined by herds of impala, zebras, and giraffes but their distance and the fading light allowed them only to be captured in my mind’s eye.
In life, I’ve learned that some of the best experiences can be found just around the corner from some of the biggest disappointments. However, in this case, my foolish malaise at Victoria Falls resulted from too much time spent consuming (and yes, sometimes creating) filtered reality on social media. In truth, any day that one finds herself strolling Victoria Falls and/or living a life aligned with her intentions is a good day indeed.
That’s a great video of ‘The Smoke That Thunders’. I’m so glad you made it there, Lisa. I tried to imagine just how overawed Livingston must have been when he suddenly cane upon this amazing sight.
Whether Livingstone first saw it in the rain or the shine, I imagine it would have been like discovering heaven. I was delighted to experience Victory Falls in a whole new way when I discovered your post when we arrived in Brazil. Your aerial image has my mouth agape every time I look at it. I may never view the place from a helicopter, but next time we visit, I am definitely going to river raft the place. The Captain thanks you for your kind words on the video.
David Livingstone was such a brave pioneer in his day and I think you and The Captain are also in the same category. Your seafaring adventures amaze me. What an exciting life you live. 🙂
Awwww… you are lovely to say, Sylvia. To have us referred to in the same sentence as David Livingstone is the highest of compliments.
I was telling hubby about you both and he thinks you’re very intrepid.
😊🙏
OMG, the elephants! The falls looked pretty good to me – I’m glad you got to see them even if you weren’t 100% satisfied with the experience. I almost missed the arrow on your Year 1 picture, and would have thereby missed a good laugh. No you DON’T look like that!
I am tickled that you enjoyed a laugh at our hippo doppelgängers. The elephants were such an unexpected treat. And in hindsight, getting to experience Vic Falls was a treat too, even if the weather didn’t allow me to capture rainbows dancing on the water’s edge and time did not permit an adventure raft trip down the Zambezi.
Fantastic post. Its on our bucket list. Sounds a bit of a hassel with the border crossing. Did you rent the truck?
Fair winds on your next passage to Grenada!
Do it! You will love it. The border crossing was mostly a hassle because of the ‘unexpected’ …but if we’d been better informed on this one, we might not have traveled to Vic Falls at all, so it was all good in the end. We did rent the 4×4 but wouldn’t recommend the provider. Luckily, there are many others to chose from. The Tracks4Africa App was invaluable on the road. Thank you so much for your lovely compliments here and on Twitter.
I enjoyed every minute of this immensely, Lisa, clouds or not! I loved seeing the shot of you and the Captain and completely understand how the elephant parade (and the zebras, for me), could cure your disappointment or at least make you realize how blessed you are. 🙂 Looking forward to the next round.
janet
😃Blessed indeed. A pleasure to have you here, Janet. Delighted that you enjoined the experience.
The old ‘be careful what you wish for’, Lisa, but didn’t it end well? 🙂 🙂 Magical scenes with the ellies! I sometimes have to give myself a slap. Everything in life can’t be the fairytale, but yours comes pretty close. 🙂
It ended very well indeed, Jo. And it could have been so much worse. I could have arrived at Vic Falls in the dry season when there was no water on the Zambia side (an experience Tish Farrell recounted for me when I touched upon my ‘tragedy’ here in an earlier post, I could have never made it to Vic Falls, I could have failed to ever lift anchor from my desk, etc, etc. It was a good lesson in blessings and I have many to be thankful for. Hugs from the other side of the Atlantic.
PS – …and the elephant parade was the icing on a very big cake
🙂 🙂
What another wonderful adventure and I loved the photos of the elephant parade. So many baby elephants – magic.
I never tire of elephants. We would have missed this experience altogether if I’d been able to convince Fabio to spend the night in Livingstone so I could photograph Vic Falls against that emerging blue sky. In the end, my photos would have been mediocre at best and duplicative of so many others. The elephant parade, on the other hand, stumbled upon completely by chance, was the highlight of our road trip. Thanks for joining me there.
I LOVE this post, and your photos. So glad that you got your way…and the Universe got her way as well! 🙂
The Universe definitely (over) delivered on this day, Donna. Can’t wait to see what she’ll reveal to you and Richard on on the trail to Rome. Thank you for all the love. Hugs from Brazil.
Carbon tax? Seriously? The world is ruled by the Global IRS. 🙂
Seven years on the sea? Congrats.
And fair winds.
🙂
It has been a grand adventure so far. Looking forward to more sea miles …sadly the Taxman can be found in almost every port although some are more reasonable than others.
Strangely enough, after so many years, Mexico is not bad. France is a catastrophy. (Which explains the current state of the country)
Bons vents. On the 20th, right?
I kind of feel the same way about my home in the US (catastophy). It will be interesting to return there next year after such a long absence. I don’t think I will recognize the place.
Quite possibly not. That man is the worst news for the world in the last 20 years. He thrives on conflict. Which bothers me considering the number of n*clear w*rhe*ds he has at his disposal. But don’t worry. Happy winds.
I thought I had answered that. The world taxman is Big Brother. I don’t give it 5 years before all taxmen are connected. The French IRS is already trying to know my Mexican income. Which – no way! – I pay my taxes in Mexico and in France but until I’m obliged by law I am not telling.
Today is the big day.
Bons vents Lisa.
US taxpayers are required to report and pay taxes on income earned internationally. Sounds like France is now moving in the same direction. Thank you for the well wishes. We have delayed our travel by a few more days due to inclement weather. The good news is that we are totally prepared for the passage. Now we just relax while we wait.
Yeah I know about the US requirements. A growing trend. (Politicians all copy each other)
The good thing is that you are in no hurry, are you? The freedom of sailing. What about the moon? It’s waning now isn’t it?
Welcome to the club of unmet travel expectations; much as I want to tell you that just being there is good enough, I know sometimes it can be a big bummer to not get to have the experience you crave whether it sounds whiny or not. It’s OK to be disappointed, especially if you have the wisdom to acknowledge the overall good fortune you have once you take a step back.
The elephants are a magnificent consolation prize! Such amazing photos of them – honestly I’d rather see living creatures under the sun than the falls! 🙂
You know you were top of mind for me during my Vic Falls meltdown with visions of your rain-filled disappointment at Quito swirling in my head. Actually, thinking of us laughing together (virtually) at the silliness of it all helped get me through the moment. I appreciate your love and sympathy here today and hope its all unicorns and rainbows (created from brief rains crossing otherwise sun-filled skies) when you visit us in San Blas later this year.
What? Lexie will visit you in the San Blas!? Incredibly awesome!
That is the plan!!! Hope we can make it a reality 😍
This post is very timely for me, Lisa! Like you, I couldn’t be more disappointed these days. I usually don’t look forward to excursions, but when I do (as in this current case), it never works out and leads to disappointment. I should know better. That’s why I try to avoid anticipation.
The North Rim of the Grand Canyon opens May 15th every year, after being closed due to snow for seven months. We planned around this event and drove hundreds of miles to be there, yesterday… to discover that only the visitor center and one viewpoint could be reached. The scenic roads were closed because of environmental issues. We stayed an extra day (today), as they didn’t know when the road would open. Same scenario. We came all this way for one view into the canyon. And, it was cold, cloudy, and windy! I was more than bummed. We gave up this morning and left.
Are we too spoiled? Maybe. But, these events happen and in those situations, I tell Mark (who is now Mr. Positive himself – believe it or not – after quitting The Wirie) that it’s OK for me to be bummed. I’ll get over it. Not a lot of people get to peek over the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. Not a lot of people get to witness the Victoria Falls. You and I both couldn’t enjoy the moment (we strive for perfection), but I’m so glad the elephants made more than up for it. No elephants here, unfortunately. Only rain, storms, and cold weather… in Southern Utah. What’s wrong with our climate? 🙁
That border crossing into Zambia sounds horrendous. And, the more I read your African adventures, the more I doubt Mark and I could ever afford traveling there…
I so feel your pain. And yes, we are very spoiled. It is okay for us to be disappointed by unmet expectations even when we have so many blessings to luxuriate in. I am delighted to hear of Mark’s positive transformation sans the Wirie. A good reminder to shed the crap that isn’t working. I still have a feeling that you’ll find your way to Africa someday. The border crossing into Zambia made for good laughs in hindsight …if we’d know what we were getting ourselves into, we’d have never gone, so I’m glad that we ventured into Zambia on this foolish journey and came back with many good stories to tell. I’m certain that your ‘elephants’ are waiting for you just up the road with plenty of sunshine to follow.
Is there anything cuter than a baby elephant?
😄Nope. I don’t think there is 💙👶🐘. Hope you are celebrating spring with more time on the water ⛵️
Oh I so understand the disappointment that can come when we’ve wanted to see a place for a long time and it doesn’t meet our expectations in one way or another. For me it was at the travertine terraces of Pamukkale in Turkey. Every picture I’ve ever seen of them showed the terraces filled with beautiful turquoise water. For the 2.5 days we were there there was no water at all in the natural terraces, only in the man made terraces down the bottom where visitors are allowed in the water. I was so disappointed. I kept asking when the water would be released in the natural terraces and nobody knew or cared except for one day when they said today not at all!
But the ellies! How amazingly wonderful. I would love to have seen that, and all the other animals. This world is a wonder indeed, and I get a little vicarious pleasure reading your story of the water hole and looking at your fabulous photos.
Alison
Delighted that you enjoyed the elephant extravaganza. And your beautiful post on Parmukkale was yet another consolation to my ‘expectation’ fueled disappointment at Vic Falls …and really drove home the point. Like Don, having never seen your Pamukkale Terraces filled with water, I truly enjoyed the views that greeted you there. To me, the landscape was extraordinary without water, but if I’d shown up expecting water, I’d probably have been disappointed too.
Before I became an active social media user (and traveling with a partner who needs a bit more detail to encourage his traveling to a place) I used to show up at a destination with my only knowledge of the place being the suggestion that ‘you should go to X’. I’d arrive with a first night’s hotel booking, directions on how to get there, perhaps a few phrases to exchange pleasantries, and an unopened travel guide’. The next morning, I would wander the place on foot or by public transport, trying to figure out what single phrase best defined it. Once I had that concluded, I’d open up the guide book, and see what they had to say. I can’t remember EVER being disappointed on such an excursion.
While the benefits of traveling with social media far outweigh the negatives for me, I just need to remember to keep ‘expectations’ in check in order to see the beauty in the ‘now’.
Oh I love that idea of going to a place knowing almost nothing about it and taking the first day just to be there and take it in. Because of the Internet we’ve too often I think pre-planned a little too much, and gone to a place with a list. Even so we’ve had amazing experiences and very little disappointments, but the idea of going in with virtually no expectations really appeals to me. The mystery definitely appeals to my sense of adventure.
Alison
I miss traveling like that and hope you give it a go. We could start a new trend 🙂 You certainly have a lot of experience where failed plans have resulted in the most delightful of adventures.
Wow, wow, wow!
Elephants! 😀 😀
😊🙏Elephants are pretty awesome. Thinking of another land of elephants, did you make it to Thailand Tattoo convention this year?
Unfortunately I can’t afford to travel anywhere. I work in a pre-school now and the pay is shit.
Luckily you have your music to keep your spirit afloat …and my guess is that it will take you to many places in the long run 🎶❤️
I am so glad you got to see the Vic Falls, Lisa. I had a good giggle at The Captain’s words at the start of the post, as years ago, when I went with my husband (then still only dating) and a group of friends and family members on a fishing trip, first on a houseboat on Kariba and then on the Zambezi near Kasane, I begged him to stop at the Vic Falls for me. The answer was a resolute no, as he had this long-winded explanation of no time and border crossing before dark. Some other members of the party stopped without encountering any of the problems he envisioned, and to this day, when he wants to rush from one destination to the next, I remind him of how I could hear the thunder and feel the spray of the falls as we zipped past . . . . I’m not sure I’ll ever see them, but I will also never allow him to forget. 😉
Your version of our ‘shared experience’ had me laughing out loud. I have a feeling that you will find your way to Vic Falls someday to complete that story. And maybe I will get lucky enough to return to the area someday via houseboat 😍.
On another note, stunned to read of your perforated appendicitis. Thank goodness you are on the mend.
I hope we both get our wish, Lisa! At least those incidences when one’s travel plans don’t quite work according to plan, usually make for great stories. 🙂
Yip, one never plans for these little health glitches. I am giving myself the grace and space I need to heal, indulging in daily naps, smoothies, and podcasts – things I often don’t include in my daily rituals.
i hope this experience has you maintaining such indulgences in your daily rituals post-recovery. Love naps, smoothies and podcasts.
I love these falls. Glad you got there.
I was the navigator on this trip and by the time we found ourselves at Chobe, it just made sense to travel those ‘few extra miles’ to Vic Falls. Funny how that worked out 😉
Incredible, just incredible!
If time allows, a popular book is now available The Old Drift by Namwali Serpell. The story begins at Victoria Falls.
Your pictures are gorgeous!
I’m off to Uganda in July to help out in a school in Madera. 1,000 kids!
Be well, and thanks for the wonderful story and narration!⭐️
Your book recommendation is very timely Barbara. I needed an engaging read for our upcoming passage to Grenada and have just added ‘The Old Drift’ to my library. Sounds like a fantastic book. I am seriously impressed with your upcoming trip to Uganda. Where is the best place for me to follow along as your stories unfold there? Thank you so much for your lovely feedback on the post. Best to Dan.
Loved this post and the photos are beautiful!
I visited Victoria Falls back in 1985 whilst solo-backpacking Africa for 2 months and fortunate enough also to have gone on a Flight Of Angels in a tiny 4-seater plane over the falls, simply stunning! I wonder if the area has changed much in 30+ years.
Back then, this flight was the only touristy activity you could do around the falls but I’ve seen now that there’s whitewater rafting, chopper rides, treks, 4×4 tours, and much more, so maybe it’s easier to travel there and need to get back at some point…
Oooh, I would love to see your aerial images if you have any from that time. Had a look at your Portfolio site but couldn’t find any there. However, I did delight in your Peru images and can’t wait to make my own there soon. “Time – Arequipa” is a masterpiece.
The Captain rafted Vic Falls in 1995, 10 years after your visit and said that the only difference for him was a big increase in tourism. But I guess one could say that about any world wonder these days. Still, I hope you find your way back again soon.
That’s because I launched my new photography site in December and haven’t finished selecting photos to upload yet. Not sure if my aerial images are good enough for my site but will let you know as I only had a 35mm camera at the time, so a lot of movement in the plane.
Yeah, that happens and sometimes I’m disappointed when revisiting places, but that’s “progress”.
Thank you for your kind feedback on ‘Time’ – a piece I’ve sold and also hung in my exhibition last year in Italy. 🙂
I can see why that sold. I’d want to hang it on my wall if I had one.
Awww…thank you 🙂
OMG Lisa, We can actually hear Fabio (your captain) saying to you, “No Lisa, I (me, me, me) have been there before and I (me, me, me) am not going again. No, absolutely not, it’s too far, it’s too expensive, and do not bring it up again.” Best part, HE (your captain) always lets you win in the long run. A stunning photo that YOU took of him (your captain) with the beautiful elephant so close. If HE (your captain) is not praising your photography as of yet – FANTASTIC PHOTO’s once again Lisa and your writting just keeps getting better and better with every new experience you get to do. We love you both. Lilly and Tom S/V Tiger Lilly Dar es Salaam, Tanzania, East Africa
They could hear me roaring all the way in Rio when I read your comment. You certainly know this ‘dynamic duo’ well. I am happy to report that Captain Fabiolous LOVES the photo I took of him with the elephant and has been effusive in his feedback. We miss you guys and I can honestly say that I wish we were there with you in Tanzania right now. We could have used another year in Africa. Thank you for leaving a comment on the blog. I adore comments on the blog and I’ll be laughing about this one for many days to come.
Lisa I can understand your disappointment. Even before the days of social media I think we all wanted bright blue sky days in our travels. Still Victoria Falls is incredible. in high water or low water season, sun or clouds. I do think that the universe was making a peace offering when a bizillion elephants showed up and paraded around for you to take some of the most extraordinary photos I’ve seen. Safe travels ahead. Seems like you are getting closer to North America!
Our desire for travel days filled with blue skies definitely pre-dates social media …as does the setting of our expectations. During our road trip, I learned of an accommodation run by the San people just outside of Ghanzi in Botswana. I’d been longing to meet these Bushmen of the Kalahari since reading about them in a National Geographic …about 45 years ago. Obviously, time had marched (far) along since the article had been published but my childhood perspective had not. I inanely expected the San to wander out of the bush donning a traditional dress, banging drums and chanting. Instead, I found them dressed in modern attire, grocery shopping at the local ShopRite and maintaining a contemporarily equipped lodge/campground. For all my travels and interaction with people around the world, I was somewhat embarrassed to have expected anything different. Sure, while some people I’ve met continue to live in traditional ways full-time, most only do so on special occasions.
The whole trip was a good lesson in managing expectations, ‘right-sizing’ disappointments and being seriously grateful for the moments I am experiencing on the road, rain or shine. The elephant parade was the icing on the cake. Thank you for enjoying it with me virtually and for your lovely compliment on the photos.
We’ll be in the northern hemisphere by the end of the month, getting ever so closer to Canada.
Oh but those elephants! That’s worth every other frustration along the way. Have you read the elephant whisperer?
Those elephants were the top highlight of the entire road trip. I’d heard Lawrence Anthony’s story when we were in Kwazulu-Natal but did not realize there was a book!. I need to add the Elephant Whisper to my shelves.
To be able to experience the beauty of Victoria Falls AND elephants in one single day is perfection itself. Despite the clouds (and maybe because of them), your pics of the falls are outstanding (wanna go)! That photo of the elephants at sunset is mind-blowing… I feel a need to share it, if I can (with full attribution and blog link, of course) figure out how. It brought tears to my eyes. Loved the 1 Year and 7 Year photos of the two of you (my how your months have grown)… too funny!
Well, it tears all around here today as your super-positive, heartfelt comment has made me a bit weepy. I’m honored simply by the fact that you felt a need to share that elephant at sunset photo. And how lovely are you to consider my VicFalls photos outstanding? I’m pretty certain that I’ve set your expectations low enough that you will be amazed at what you see when you go there. And go there you must. It can be surprisingly affordable and accessible. Glad our hippo doppelgängers gave you a laugh …and my how our wastes have grown too ;-). I hear from Donna that you will be visiting Vancouver Island in July. Wish I could be there for that meet-up.
As they say, Lisa, you could photograph the phone book and make it look like art! Gorgeous images of water and wildlife! The elephants are so regal!
I will cherish that phone book compliment for years to come, Terri. Thank you for your kind feedback. Felt blessed as I enjoyed your Sunday Stills photo challenge theme for the week. It was awesome to be able to say truthfully that ‘The World is My #Playground’.
I can relate to being sad about less than ideal conditions at world wonders. Lately, I haven’t been concerned with taking photos of the iconic sites since there are already billions of photos from those places and have instead tried to focus on unique moments like people, weather, and animals. It looks like you had some pretty great animal encounters afterwards at the waterhole. That is crazy all the hassle you had at the border. We traveled by bus and didn’t have to deal with any of that.
I too have found unique moments to be far more rewarding and compelling to photograph than icons. And as an art love, such moments are also my favorite to consume. Loving your Instagram.
In hindsight, the border crossing made for good laughs and a good story…if we’d known what we were getting ourselves into, we’d never have gone to Vic Falls …and we would have missed those awesome elephants on the return.
Fantastic post, Lisa. Thanks so much. I don’t know if I’ll ever get to Africa but if I do I want to stay in that safari camp.
I do hope your travels bring you to Africa someday, Coral. Would love to experience those elephants through your lens.
Seven years of sailing together, wow. How long have you been gone this time?
Instagram can both encourage and destroy dreams by presenting places in their « perfect » state. Bali is another example of this. Hard to not have high expectations when you see so many incredible images. I went to Bali in the rainy season so kept expectations relatively low, but was still disappointed that it’s pretty much impossible to get a photo of any temple without having mobs of selfie takers in them.
Your photos, as always, are magnificent. The parade of elephants at sunset made my eyes water. Just sublime. Africa is still so magical, so wild. I feel so fortunate that I’ve been able to experience this while it still exists.
Happy Sails to Grenada! I was there in 1992. Sailed from there through the Grenadines to Mustique.
Much love to you,
Julie
Thank you for the love on the elephant parade photos. I feel exactly as you do, that we are fortunate to experience it while it exists.
Fabio and I left Florida together in February 2013 and sailed to Hawaii by the end of that crazy year. Haven’t stepped foot on US soil since leaving Hawaii in April 2014 (unless you count entering the US Embassy in Hanoi for passport renewal and dining aboard US flagged vessels)
I sailed into Bali with very low expectations given stories I’d heard of pristine beaches having long-ago given way to resorts and drunken revelers …and then I unexpectedly fell in love with the place. Interestingly, the experiences I felt most positively about in advance (e.g. drinking Kopi Luwak, visiting Ubud) turned out to be my least favorite. And so it goes with expectations. But one place where my high expectations are always exceeded is your website; your Bali post was no exception.
Thanks so much, Lisa ❤️❤️❤️
Thank you 😃
It’s kind of hard to envision being disappointed by Victoria Falls, but I can relate. A recent highly anticipated excursion to the Isle of Skye in Scotland ended up being mostly a bust. But although there were no elephants to pour salve on our disappointment, we did enjoy dramatic views the next morning on the way out. All in all I think I’d have rather had your experience, but either might qualify as a fantasy for much of the world. Even our busts had silver linings.
We are both blessed to being having such experiences, rain or shine. Rainbows are the elephants of Skye in my opinion. Every one of your rainbow pictures made me gasp and smile. But that is easy for me having no other expectations of the place and getting to enjoy it virtually from the confines of my sailboat.
Hi Lisa, I admire the both of you for going to Victoria Falls on your own. A great reminder on expect unexpected fees:)I cannot imagine Falls twice as high as Niagara. Your photos are stunning! I agree with some of the above comments, where some of the best photos are taken on a cloudy day. My family enjoys taking many photos and we are all amateur photographers. Sometimes it isn’t feasible to capture a photo, so we have a saying “Take a mental pic”. Thanks for sharing your memorable adventure:) Erica
Thank you for joining me on the road Erica and for your lovely feedback on the images. I could have definitely benefited from a Pyt Button when visiting Victoria Falls. So enjoyed your entertaining reminder to be grateful for the present moment.
I just love following your amazing adventures Lisa! Good sailing!
It is a pleasure to have you along on the journey Nicole. Hope our travels find us wayfaring in the same place someday soon.
Dear Lisa and Fabio,
I am so happy that you got to see such wonderful sights – the awe inspiring falls, the wonderful group of elephants, makes me want to hug the baby elephants they are so cute, and your adventures getting there and back. You both are getting to be good at making deals. Happy and proud at all the wonderful thrills and lessons you are learning going on 7 years of adventures.
Love,
Mom
Those baby elephants would be blessed to receive your hug. Nothing in this world beats a hug from my mother. Fabio is a good teacher at negotiating deals. Sometimes it is better for me to just keep my mouth shut and let him negotiate our way across the border. But other times, my smile and friendly demeanor works better …and I learned that from you.
You may not have gotten that rainbow shot, but you did get the sunset ad elephant shot. Good job.
Victoria Falls is one of the places I’d love to go. Thanks for the view.
My favorite moment of the entire road trip were those elephants at sunset …and in hindsight, I can tell you that VicFalls is worth the trip; rain or shine. I hope you find yourself there someday soon. Thank you so much for visiting there with me virtually.
I just learned that Victoria Falls are the largest in the world. Makes them even more awesome.
..and makes my malaise experienced when visiting them just that much more silly. A valuable ‘reality check’ 😉
We’re all there at one time or another.
What a vicarious experience you and Fabio are giving your friends. You just have one adventure after another for us to enjoy. I am so happy you both are living your dreams. The photos you were able to get of Victoria Falls and those of the elephants and zebras were beautiful. Keep on living your dream and keep on sharing them with us. Safe sails to Grenada!!
Love to you and Fabio,
Margo
Having you and Steve aboard was a top experience for us on this circumnavigation and one we would love to repeat. Current plans are Grenada > Bonaire > Curacao > Colombia (Peru, Ecuador) > Panama (San Blas) > US if you are so inclined. If we don’t see you beforehand, we definitely have a US rendezvous to look forward to. Thank you so much for visiting us on the blog. Miss you both.
Oh my goodness, that herd of African elephants is GORGEOUS. You’re absolutely right that the best experiences often come after disappointment. They certainly come when you lease expect them! Though I still think your photos of Victoria Falls are breathtaking. 🙂
I see you’re setting sail today, so I wish you safe travels!
Ahoy, you! Sailing plans have been delayed due to inclement weather further up the coast. Looks like we will be here until Thursday. The good news is that we have the boat fully in order for departure so we can just sit here and enjoy ourselves for the next few days. And enjoy myself I did seeing your latest update. I am so proud of you for getting into graduate school. You never fail to amaze me. Thank you for your kind words on all the photography. I hope my images inspire you to work less and travel more …even if it means traveling in your own backyard on that day off you are going to give yourself over Memorial Day Weekend (next year, I hope you will grant yourself the whole weekend ;-).
Best of luck with your Thursday departure date! Glad you emjoyed seeing my update. 🙂 Aw, your kind words make me blush. 🙂
Well, right now I’m focusing less on spending money on traveling and more on saving for grad school. But I do want to travel more in my future! I’m planning on traveling to the local pool on Memorial Day, weather permitting.
The best adventures start in your own backyard …have fun and don’t work too hard
Travel always offers us the opportunity to revel in the unexpected. Who wouldn’t want to see Victoria Falls? And yet, the expected highlight was the elephants. Those pictures are spectacular and unique and very “you.” Maybe there are enough photos in the world of the falls. Nat Geo needs your elephant photos!
Also, good for you for expanding your website with video and sliders. The hippos are hysterical!
You are spot on. Even in perfect conditions, it is difficult to capture iconic sites in a way that stands out against the crowd. The best images are created in unique moments. Am delighted that you think the elephants are Nat Geo quality 😊 …and heartened to know that we share a sense of humor.
Glad that you enjoyed the addition of The Captain’s videos. We need to do more of those. The sliders are a feature of the new WordPress Gutenberg editor. This was my second attempt to create a post using Gutenberg. My first attempt was a miserable failure and I ran back and hid in the comfort of the classic editor for a few more posts. I finally decided to face the fear and am pleased with the result.
Hugs from Brazil. Delayed in port until tomorrow due to inclement weather up north.
We all fall prey to chasing those perfect Instagram moments and I love how you have articulated your feelings about this. While I loved Victoria Falls (and will rub it in by saying we had perfect weather…though long before Instagram days) your ferry crossing description most resonated with me. We too got tangled in the bureaucratic chaos and spent hours there. I have some wonderful photos of people patiently waiting to cross that I really should gather into a post.
Your elephant photos, especially the sunset one, just about brought tears to my eyes. I remember the complete sense of awe I felt on a sunset excursion in Chobe National Park watching the elephants against that magnificent pink-blue sky.
I am proud to say that I have fully made my peace with VicFalls and can truly celebrate your having enjoyed the place in perfect weather. I do hope you publish those photos of people waiting to cross the Zambian border. Even though our crossing was a lengthy process, the wait for the ferry was not. We managed to get on at our first attempt in both directions. Being there during the shoulder-season definitely worked in our favor. And luckily the water was running …I learned later that the Falls are bone-dry on the Zambia side at the off-season. I roar (now) at the idea of showing up then and finding no water there at all.
I am touched that my elephant photos left such an impression on you and evoked great memories of Chobe. I never managed to convince The Captain to take me out on a river tour in Moremi or Chobe (although we did spend a few hours with our 4X4 stuck on a water-covered track in Moremi …not exactly the experience I was seeking 😄. But the elephant parade at Senyati Safari Camp more than made up for it.
omg Lisa, I can so relate to that feeling of malaise that sometimes sets in when we let our expectations for the ‘perfect’ event override the magic of the real moment. Why do we do that to ourselves?!! Oh right … we’re human.
I was ooohing and ahhhhing all over your photos from Victoria Falls and then I got to elephants. Squeal! Baby elephants!!! 💕💕💕
…. and I forgot to say safe and smooth travelling on your way to Brazil!!
It is difficult to be upset by anything in the presence of baby elephants. I swear that they laugh, skip and smile. Am heartened that you oohed and aahed over my Vic Falls photos and by your gentle reminder to forgive myself for being human. Ahoy from Cabedelo, Brazil. Delayed here in port a few days due to inclement weather up north. Should be throwing off those dock lines tomorrow …Caribbean here we come.
woohoo! You’re heading into the heat 🙂
Ha! It will actually be ‘more of the same’ at these tropical latitudes; hot and humid with a chance of rain every day. Am looking forward to experiencing the changing seasons when we sail to the US in 2020 …of course, ask me how I feel after my third snowfall…
shhh – It’s still too soon after winter. We shall not speak of the white stuff yet 😉
Ahoy from the Northern Hemisphere! Just arrived in The Caribbean. Getting closer to the ‘white stuff’ with every mile (although I don’t think they get much of it here in Grenada). I hope that you are having a wonderful (almost) summer. Will be by your pages soon for a catch-up
Congratulations on making it back! Enjoy your well-earned rest in the Caribbean!!
Interesting how life teaches and shows us things just when we need them, n’est pas? Those elephants… life could hardly choose something bigger to teach you a lesson. 🙂 And so many of them there were! I saw the video, amazing! Now you get a few days relax time, I see. Great, no? And that photo of you two… just <3.
Ha, ha, ha. Loved your comment regarding the size of the teachers that life sent my way. Delighted that you enjoyed The Captain’s video of the elephants on parade.
Our plans to relax have given way to the The Captain’s desire to do a few last minute jobs ‘as long as we are here’. He is currently rebuilding a spare refrigerator compressor. The boat is in a bit of disarray at the moment but I’m lucky to have a Captain who maintains her ship-shape.
Thank you so much for sharing this post on Twitter.
😀 Oh Captain your Captain sounds like my amore. No rest for the wicked when some more work can be done. 😉 But yes, we’re lucky. All well to both of you!
😂🤗😘
Wow! the elephants are amazing. That sunset parade photo is glorious. I can understand your disappointment after having anticpated it for so long. It’s best to travel some place with no expectations but sometimes expectations happen. I still think you were very lucky and hpe some day to go. Now I want to go to Botswana too to see the elephants — something I’d never thought of doing before.
Delighted that you found inspiration in the sunset photos and video. I sure hope you have a tour of Botswana in your future.. Would love to revisit the place through your lens. Experiencing the place is a blessing indeed.
What a treat…in essence you paid for an impromptu safari! Happy sails and trails!
…and it was a bargain. With the average Africa Safari costing >$1,000 per day, the price for this one was relatively nominal. And I have since ‘right-sized’ my disappointment with my Vic Falls, now being incredibly grateful for the opportunity to visit the place. Ahoy from Grenada, a world away from Africa.
Another adventure! The Vic Fall, Wow… Thank you for the fantastic video, Lisa!
Love, love these elephants, great captures!
Ahoy from Grenada, Amy. Sorry for my delay in responding. Have been offline for a couple of weeks as we’ve made our way here from Brazil under sail. Greatly appreciate your visit and lovely feedback.
Hi Lisa – What an adventure and beautiful photos! I love that photo of the elephants in the sunset. Victoria Falls looks incredible. It’s on my list to visit if I ever get a chance to go there. I wonder if you visited or plan to visit Iguazu Falls while you’re in Brazil. I visited Iguazu Falls when I was in Argentina. It was heavy rain and thunderstorms the day I was there. I didn’t get any blue sky photos (disappointment) but the sights, sounds, and the power of the water are unforgettable. I look forward to seeing more of your adventures.
Oh, I do hope you get to Vic Falls Natalie. Sadly, our time in Brazil was limited to the northern bits so we did not make it to Iguazu Falls. Your pictures look A-MA-ZING. No blue skies needed. Apologies for my delay in responding. We’ve just arrived in The Caribbean after a 2100 nautical mile passage from Brazil and are slowly getting acclimated to life ashore again. Hugs from Grenada.
What an adventure!
Feeling blessed to be on this journey.
Life is about collecting experiences and that is what you had getting to and being at Victoria Falls. Was the border experience typical for that area?
A shame about the photos you didn’t get but you were there and I hope that is good enough. I’d love to see and hear the Falls for myself one day.
I’ve since read of others having similar experiences when trying to cross the border on their own. But most go with a tour group and miss the fun ;-).
I have truly come to terms with the experience I got and feel blessed to have walked there at all. I’d like to return someday, not so much to ‘shoot it in sun’ but to savor The Falls over a number of days from every angle.
Ooh those elephants!!! So many and babies too. Waterholes are the best for watching wildlife and I miss it all sooo much. Can’t wait to get back one day soon.
Wonderful photos Lisa. And so glad you got to experience all of it…!
Peta
My inner 5 years old was filled with glee at that watering hole. How lucky are you to have had a childhood filled with elephants growing up in Southern Africa? I wish we’d stayed a year longer; another reason for a victory lap. Maybe we will get back there at the same time.
Awww no. So sorry to hear you didn’t get the sunny day you wanted at Victoria Falls. But you are so right in saying that any day there – and also any day we get to travel – is a good day. It could be the one day ever you get to spend at that place. To be hones I thought your cloudy photos were great, capturing a peaceful sight. Amazing how you and The Captain managed to get so close to the elephants in their natural habitat, and an amazing pastel sunset shot in the foreground. A great shot in the end <3
Awwww, you make me feel GREAT with your lovely compliments on photos :-). I laugh at myself now for thinking that there was any bit of this day that was less than perfect. I am blessed to have had this journey around the globe and to have met wonderful people like you along the way.
As the saying goes, it is the journey that counts. And a lot of us do appreciate you sharing your journey with us, Lisa. Congrats on Best Travel Blog on Blogger’s Bash, reader’s choice 😎😊🎆 🎇 🎉 🎊
😊🙏Everything is possible with the love of good friends Mabel. Thanks for sailing along with us virtually ⛵️🐒💙
I JUST booked a trip to Victoria Falls, Okavango Delta, Cape Town and Kruger!! I love the year 1 photo and the year 7 comparison 😂😂😂. And I agree, on trips like this, every minute of every day is spectacular…even if you haven’t showered for days and the only option for a toilet is one of a pit variety!!
PS. The elephants are u-mazing.
If you have an opportunity to stay at Senyati Safari Camp during your visit, I highly recommend it!
We actually booked it through REI adventures! I have asked where we are staying. I’ll let ya know 😊
OMG so excited to hear this news. When will you be headed there! Can’t wait to visit there again. MAGICAL.
We will be there next August. It’s going to be the longest year of my life. Haha
You have soooo many awesome plans for 2020. It is going to be an amazing year.
It is!!! 😊😊😊
Amazing trip! You were really courageous to go on your own. Cloudy skies are usually not a problem for photos, they add more definition to other colours. I would worry more about the equipment in the humidity and spray, hahaha. Lovely, those elephants, aaaaa!
While we missed the colorful rainbows with the cloud cover, the awesomeness of the falls, the adventure in finding our way there, and the elephant parade that followed more than made up for it. Gaining perspective was the icing on the cake.
Isn’t nature amazing! You certainly jumped through hoops to get to your destination, a shame it was disappointing for you at the time because the ideal conditions weren’t on your side, but I’m sure looking back at it the memories will stay with you. What a wonderful end to the day, this elephants are worth their weight in gold. That is a special moment.
😁 It is all great memories now, filled with lots of humor, perspective, and elephants!!! I feel blessed to have had every moment of that day. Nature is amazing, indeed.
What an adventurous trip! Yes, it has happened more than once to us that it is cloudy at the destination we want to photograph. Also, we try to avoid the peak travel time like summer – when everything is sunny and clear, but hot and humid! Love those pictures of elephant parade and the zebras. 🙂
Thank you for joining me for the adventure virtually. We tend to travel in the off-season too …I’ll take clouds over tourist masses anytime. And everything is better with elephants and zebras 🐘🦓
oh my, what a magical adventure, I am greeeeeen with envy!
The meeing with the elefants must have been on the bucketlist, huh?
Love the parade image 🙂
Seeing elephants in the wild changes everything. So majestic. A blessing, every one.
Sometimes it’s such a headache travelling independent. Crossing land borders in Africa was the most exhausting bit of travelling there. I never knew who was official, who was not lol. But you got to Victoria Falls and you ended the day with elephants. What a fab adventure!
😂Crossing borders in Africa was exhausting at the time but made for great stories later! I would do it all over again if given a chance, and then some. How lucky are we both to have traveled this beautiful continent?
“I chose to mourn the loss of a few Instagram-worthy photos that I would never make here.” this part of your post really resonated with me. As a photographer/travel blogger – I go to a destination with a vision of the “perfect shot” I want to capture… sometimes forgetting that the weather/circumstances are not always ideal. My partner does a great job of reminding me to appreciate the beauty of where we are, and that even though i didn’t get “the shot” we still were able to get great photos, and more importantly – the memories made from the photos 🙂
😄Always a pleasure to meet a kindred spirit. Your partner is wise, indeed. Making memories and gaining the perspective to ‘appreciate the moment’ was the best part of this day … and the elephant parade was balm for my soul.
Oh it is sad that you encountered clouds and intermittent rain greeted you at Victoria Falls you have captured beautiful photos of Victoria Falls. Herds of elephants approaching you must be the beautiful experience you must have faced. You have taken stunning shot of Elephant herd with sunset.
I am delighted that you enjoyed the images. I smile widely now recalling this day, laughing at myself for failing to see the beauty that surrounded me at Vic Falls. The Joni Mitchell song Both Sides Now rings so true for me now!
WOW! What gorgeous falls! I feel your pain in the disappointment of not having perfect weather for a once-in-a-lifetime visit, but even in the cloudy weather, the falls are still beautiful and those elephants! Amazing! To be able to see so many and the little ones are just so cute. What a treat that must have been. I can only imagine how many pictures I would have taken if I had seen them. Thanks for sharing!
😁I took over 500 pics of those cute little elephants, eventually culling them down the 15 I kept. And the Falls are gorgeous in any weather. One of my blogging friends topped my story, showing up at the Falls in the dry season when the Falls weren’t running. We had a good laugh over that one. Even then, she made the best of it, exploring areas that are inaccessible during the wet season. Another good lesson about gratitude and making the best of any moment. Thanks for joining me here virtually.
It sounds like quite a hassle to get to Victoria Falls, with all of the fees and visas! Even though the weather wasn’t on your side at the falls, I agree that you had a good day 🙂 All those elephants and zebras coming up so close must have been an awe-inspiring sight.
At least the odyssey at the border made for great storytelling at the end :-). Still in awe of those elephants and zebras.
Love your adventures, Lisa. Victoria Falls may not have turned out as you imagined but you captured what you could beautifully. Love the video. You captured the elephants and the zebras…how I wish to experience. Thoroughly enjoyed your post.
Thank you so much for traveling here with me virtually and for your very kind feedback on the post. I hope you find yourself in Botswana someday (and at Vic Falls no matter what the weather :-). Awesome beyond my wildest dreams.
Hey how can you say your Victoria Falls weren’t Instagram worthy? And how come the Captain needed to be convinced? You guys became spoilt after 7 years sailing around the world!!! I’m at home watching this incredibile video and it makes me shiver.. Arghhh and no countries will give me a Visa for a while!!
Awww, thank you so much for the kind feedback on the Vic Falls pics. The Captain needed a bit of prodding given he’d been to the Falls before, and it was quite a ways away. Luckily, a good time was had by all in the end.
I am devastated to read of COVID-19’s impact on Italy. I had no idea that Italian citizens were having trouble securing travel visas. The Captain has plans to travel to Milan in May, and I am hopeful that he will be able to do so.