![Cowboy leading horses down the streets of Guadalupe](https://lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Leading-Horses-Throgh-The-Streest-of-Guadalupe-1024x768.jpg)
With an endless passion for adventure, culture, and history, I’ve longed to wander back through time since my ‘tween years. But with wormhole travel still yet to be perfected, I’ve opted for the next best thing: timeless travel …and Colombia has got it in spades!
![Cowboy looks downward to street below from wooden window in whitewashed building Villa de Leyva, Colombia](https://lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Watching-The-World-Go-By-1024x768.jpg)
On The Heritage Trail
![On Colombia's Heritage Trail | Lisa Dorenfest ~ One Ocean At A Time class=](https://lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/My-Post-10.jpg)
Visits to 9 of Colombia’s 17 famed Pueblos Patrimonios or Heritage Villages brought us to the heart of Colombia’s traditions that are still very much alive today.
![Devotees celebrating in the streets of Villavieja](https://lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Villavieja-Devotees-Parade-1024x819.jpg)
And venturing further afield to the small towns bordering unique landscapes such as Las Gachas in Guadalupe and Desierto del la Tatacoa in Villavieja brought us even closer.
![Las Gachas Volcanic River in Guadalupe. Algae lend to the magenta tones](https://lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Las-Gachas-Volcanic-River-Guadalupe-1024x683.jpg)
Accessed from paved roads that wind across mountain ranges, giving way to cobbled streets, then dusty trails, passing by flower fincas (farms), coffee plantations, wheat-filled plains and rice fields along the way.
![Andes Mountains view on the road to Aguadas](https://lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/On-The-Road-To-Aguadas-1024x459.jpg)
Each village was a treasure trove of colonial history, Colombian culture, and distinctive architecture fanning outward from the church in its central square to majestic rural landscapes beyond.
![Aranzazu On The Road To El Jardin](https://lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Aranzazu-On-The-Road-To-Jardine-1024x745.jpg)
I developed an almost groupie like adoration for the Silleteros (flower farmers), Arrieros (muleteers) and Llaneros (cowboys) donning brimmed sombreros, Carriel Campesinos, shoulder scarfs or ruana wool ponchos (depending upon the altitude), a machete at the waist, and long trousers.
![Silletero Joachín Emilio Zapata Amariles Outside His Finca Los Girasoles](https://lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/Finca-Los-Girasoles-1024x683.jpg)
More of his story to follow in Part 2 of this series.
I would grab my camera with glee every time I heard the sound of hooves clip-clopping down the road.
![Three cowboys at a diner in Santa Fe](https://lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Santa-Fe-Cowboys-1024x768.jpg)
These were my culture rock stars.
![Cowboy riding horseback with his canine companion riding horseback](https://lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Canine-Caballero-1024x819.jpg)
Nestled between the Atlantic and Pacific and bordering Ecuador, Peru, Brazil, and Venezuela, Colombia offers an impressive variety of landscapes from rainforests to deserts, mountains to grasslands, and seacoasts to offshore islands.
![Poncho wearing cowboy on dirt road riding past giant cross](https://lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Road-to-Mongua-1024x683.jpg)
As our home is on the sea and we’d been advised that the remaining drug lords, neo-paramilitary groups and splinter-guerilla forces were still operating along the borders and deep in the rainforests, we spent the predominance of our time in the central Andes Mountains (shuttling between 1500 to 3300 meters) with a quick trip to the desert for an additional bit of diversity.
![Golden Sun on Desierto de la Tatacoa](https://lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Tatacoa-Desert-1024x668.jpg)
We felt so comfortable where we did travel that we opted to self-drive rather than go with a tour group or bus and are glad that we did; a surprisingly affordable alternative.
![Paved road headed into blue skies along flowering trees](https://lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Road-to-Tatacoa-1024x768.jpg)
But we quickly discovered that Google Maps was often inaccurate here. We navigated using Waze all the way; downloading the route on WiFi before departure. It was 98% accurate, offering time-saving alternatives and identifying road closures and speed traps ahead.
![Work on the road to San Felix, Colombia](https://lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Road-To-San-Felix-1024x768.jpg)
Traveling Reservations Free
And as a result of a kerfuffle with Booking.com at the beginning of the trip, we also opted to travel ‘reservations free’ for the remainder of our visit.
![View of The Andes From Campestre Paraiso Tropico in Aguadas](https://lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Paraiso-Tropical-Aguadas-1024x330.jpg)
We used blogs and a multitude of search engines to identify properties but did not lock ourselves into a room/destination before qualifying it for ourselves in person.
![Sun shines on accommodation at Finca El Ocasa](https://lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Finca-El-Ocasa-1024x768.jpg)
This approach allowed us to identify top-quality properties and weed out a few duds. We were able to linger longer in areas that we really enjoyed rather than racing to the next reservation. There were no hidden surprises. We were always able to book at the best-advertised price and were often able to negotiate a better one.
![](https://lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/Mongui-Plaza-Hotel-1024x683.jpg)
Came For A Night ~ Stayed For Four
The properties were never sold-out (regardless of the ‘only 1 left’ claim made widely on search sites). There was only one case where we booked on-line, this time directly with a property; one that we would have never discovered if we’d limited our search as I had done historically to Booking.com. It was an enjoyable way to travel.
My Favorites?
Monguí, Boyaca
![Lilly filled river front with Puente Real de Calicanto in background](https://lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Puente-Real-de-Calicanto-1024x509.jpg)
Just over four hours northwest of Bogotá, Monguí is a place I would love to live in for six months or more hiking numerous mountain trails, exploring the culture deeply and creating for the joy of creating.
![Man in poncho in front of Basilica de Nuestra Señora de Monguí](https://lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/unnamed-file-1024x822.jpg)
In spite of its beauty, few tourists visit here and most that do are weekend day-trippers.
![Cobble-stoned streets lined with Christmas color buildings](https://lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Mongui-Street-1024x768.jpg)
The population is welcoming with some opening their doors and inviting us in for coffee (twice!) during our stay.
![](https://lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/Juan-Pardo-1024x819.jpg)
Every day is Christmas here with town painted red, white, green and gold. And the place is filled with cowboys!
![Mongui Cowboys with horses outside local pub](https://lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/Mongui-Cowboys-At-The-Local-1024x683.jpg)
At 2919 meters, Monguí’s average temperature ranges between 6 degrees C to 13 degrees C with highs up to 17 degrees C; my kind of weather.
![Garden Inside The Convent Of The Franciscans](https://lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Inside-The-Convent-Of-The-Franciscans-1024x621.jpg)
In addition to its architectural, cultural and natural beauty, Monguí has been included in the network of Pueblos Patrimonios for its tradition of hand sewing soccer balls; supplying commercial leagues, satisfying 25% of the nation’s demand, and exporting an average of 300,000 balls per year.
![Aerial view of Monguí](https://lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Mongui-Town-1024x768.jpg)
Monguí is also the gateway to the legendary Páramo de Ocetá, which, unfortunately, inclement weather and a bad knee kept us from ascending. Next time.
![](https://lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/How-To-Explore-Mongui-And-The-Worlds-Most-Beautiful-Paramo-_-Above-Us-Only-Skies.png)
Jericó
![Man sits in front of statue and street art reflecting Colombia's heritage on road to Jericó](https://lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/On-The-Road-To-Jerico-1024x819.jpg)
Jericó was our first Pueblo and we were delighted to have the place practically all to ourselves.
![Man walking along coloful Jericó, Colombia street was women meet at nearby windowsill](https://lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Jerico-Streets-1024x683.jpg)
Just over three hours south of Medellin, it receives far less tourist traffic than nearby Jardin …perhaps because it is not found in the Lonely Planet Book …yet.
![Woman smiling from frame of colorful green, yellow and orange windowsill in Jericó, Colombia](https://lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Jerico-Smiles-768x1024.jpg)
We found out about it from Medellin Guru, a great source of information if you ever find yourself in these parts.
![Santuario de Santa Laura Viewed Through Colorful Building in Jericó](https://lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Santuario-de-Santa-Laura-1024x768.jpg)
Home of the típico Carriel Campesino (muleteer bag) used throughout rural Colombia, Jericó is another off-the-beaten-track destination that shouldn’t be missed.
![Cardboard cutout of Pope Francisco donning Tipico Carriel Bag in Jericó, Colombia](https://lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Pope-With-Tipico-Carriel-768x1024.jpg)
People that do visit here come to see the birthplace of Colombian saint, Laura Montoya, who was canonized by the Pope in this town in 2013 or to participate in extreme sports.
![Aerial view of Jericó Colombia](https://lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Jerico-Town-View-1024x572.jpg)
We chose to remain on the ground to enjoy the breathtaking town views rather than join the paragliders who consider this area as one of the best places to take-off from in Colombia.
![Horse drawn cart in front of Jerico Weekend Marketplace](https://lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Jerico-Weekend-Market-1024x768.jpg)
Cowboys abound in this Pueblo, bringing their goods to the weekend market or stopping off for a cool one in the without dismounting.
![Cowboys In Saddle At Pub](https://lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Cowboys-Having-A-Cool-Beer-1024x768.jpg)
It is totally worth navigating the steep streets and escalas to enjoy the colorful architecture kept in pristine condition by the residents.
![Jericó Calle de las Ochenta Escalas viewed from top](https://lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Jerico-Calle-de-las-Ochenta-Escalas-1024x768.jpg)
Coffee Culture
Okay, so this is a way of life rather than just a single Pueblo but…
… the Eje Cafeterio (Coffee Axis) has been designated a UNESCO Heritage site and we fell in love with this region and it’s bordering coffee-growing departments.
![Tourist in hat admires coffee beans](https://lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Captain-Coffee-1024x819.jpg)
The National Federation of Coffee Growers of Colombia, popularly known for its “Juan Valdez” marketing campaign, was founded in 1927 and currently represents more than 540,000 producers, most of whom are small, family-owned farms.
![Woman and Man Selecting The Best Coffee Beans At Finca El Ocaso](https://lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Selecting-The-Best-At-Finca-El-Ocaso-1024x768.jpg)
Colombia is currently third in the world of coffee producers after Brazil and Vietnam but second only to Brazil in the production of Arabica coffee beans.
![Coffee beans and sacks of coffee line the road in Colombia](https://lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Preparing-The-Shipment-1024x683.jpg)
Distressing to note that the production of Colombia’s 100% Arabica coffee is on the decline due to rising temperatures and significant variations in average precipitation over the last few years.
![Shipping Coffee In Colorful Bus To Market From Aguadas](https://lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Shipping-Coffee-To-Market-From-Aguadas-1024x683.jpg)
But pride remains high in the Zona Cafetera. We spent over a week drinking in the region and feeling welcomed…
![Two women chat window-side on streets of Salamina, Colombia](https://lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Good-Friends-Salamina-819x1024.jpg)
…with visits to the Pueblos Patrimonios of Jardin in Antioquia, Salamina, and Aguadas (home of the Aguadeño hats) in the Caldas and at El Finca Ocaso just outside the village of Salento, Quindio.
Barichara
![Barichara Street with Catedral de la Inmaculada Concepcion In Foreground](https://lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Catedral-de-la-Inmaculada-Concepcion-2-1024x768.jpg)
Aptly described as the ‘prettiest town in Colombia’, Barichara is a great place to relax.
![Barichara Pizza](https://lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Barichara-Pizza-1024x768.jpg)
There is not much to do here but wander the cobblestoned streets lined with tile-roofed, whitewashed buildings, tour the sandstone churches, linger in the cafes, and admire the magnificent views.
![Cobble-stoned streets of Barichara Streets](https://lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/Barichara-Streets-1024x768.jpg)
That was good enough for me. It is similar to the more popular Pueblo of Villa de Leyva but with far fewer tourists.
![Interior Catedral de la Inmaculada Concepcion](https://lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Interior-Catedral-de-la-Inmaculada-Concepcion-1024x902.jpg)
The ‘adventure capital’ of San Gil is nearby, but we opted to chill instead. I do wish we’d hiked through the mountains to nearby Guane, but that was not meant to be on this trip.
![Barichara Panorama with Guane In Distance](https://lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Barichara-Panorama-with-Guane-In-Distance-1024x607.jpg)
Bogotá
Not a Pueblos Patrimonios, nor even a village, but our time in Bogotá was all about history and heritage.
![](https://lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/Indigenous-Street-Art-Colombia-1024x768.jpg)
We stopped here for about 36 hours on our road trip to visit the famed Museo del Oro.
![Anthropomorphic Mask](https://lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Anthropomorphic-Mask-1024x683.jpg)
Middle Period 150-900 A.D.
So enamored with all the bling at the museum, we spent an entire day exploring it.
![Golden Amulet Representing Time Colombia](https://lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Time-1024x819.jpg)
Sadly, much of the intricate handiwork of Colombia’s indigenous civilizations were melted down in a greed-filled frenzy by the Spanish colonizers.
![Helmut Museo del Oro](https://lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Helmet-1024x768.jpg)
But that which remains is to be savored.
And while taking pre-departure wander the next morning, we unexpectedly found ourselves in the middle of a massive parade commemorating 200 years since ‘El Libertador’ Simon Bolivar triumphantly marched into Bogotá to establish the independent Republic of Colombia (now Venezuela, Colombia, and Panama)…
![Simon Bolivar Parade Bogota 2019](https://lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Simon-Bolivar-819x1024.jpg)
… a delightful array of marching bands and costumed performers recalling Colombia’s history and celebrating her traditions.
![Girl dressed in historical costume carrying Colombia Flag in Simon Bolivar Parade 2019 Bogota](https://lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Girl-2-1024x640.jpg)
Love when that happens!
![Image of two lovely Senoritas at Bolivar parade in Bogota 2019](https://lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Senioritas-683x1024.jpg)
~~ Next Up: There Will Be A Future: Colombia Part 2 ~~
This series of two posts is dedicated with gratitude to our friends John and Susan Pazera, former cruising sailors turned expats who encouraged and shaped our Colombia travels.
![Lisa Dorenfest and Susan Pazera](https://lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/Lisa-and-Susan-c-John-Pazara-1024x768.jpg)
Image Courtesy John Pazara
They relocated to Medellín a year ago (after a few years living as expats in Panama) and helped us feel immediately at home here.
![](https://lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/About-This-Blog.png)
Whether you are considering an expat lifestyle or simply love to travel, their blog Latitude Adjustment: A Tale of Two Travelers is well worth a read.
![](https://i2.wp.com/lisadorenfest.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Screen-Shot-2019-11-06-at-1.04.08-PM.png?fit=800%2C338&ssl=1)
Final note: We are slowly making way through the San Blas Islands to Shelter Bay in Panama where I will sail across my outbound line. Internet connection is limited here, so I may be delayed in responding to your welcomed comments.
What a wonderful post – fantastic colours and great photos as usual. I was wondering where you had got to so am happy to see that you’ve had an inspiring time.. the place looks beautiful.
Ahoy There Trish! I was so pleasantly overwhelmed by all the awesomeness in Colombia that I had to leave the country (and sail onward to rain-drenched Panama) before I could reemerge in the blogosphere. Delighted that you enjoyed the post. Hope you will find yourself in Colombia someday. Best to Andrew.
Hi, Lisa – Your ‘passion for adventure’ combined with your exceptionally talented photography skills, make your posts a delight to read every single time. This post is absolutely stunning. Your keen eye, love for colour, and ability to capture people’s emotions so naturally have stayed with me long after I finished reading and viewing!
You have brightened my otherwise overcast and rain-drenched November with your generous compliments, Donna. Just what I needed to perk up my spirits today. Thank you so much for traveling along the Heritage Trail with me and for all of the love.
Your words and photos bring back some great memories, Lisa. Although we explored the country by bus last time, I think we’ll take your advice and rent a car when we return. Which can’t come soon enough! Looking forward to Part 2.
Thank you so much for all of your wonderful recommendations that took us far off the tourist track. I am just sad that we didn’t have time to do them all. Particularly sad to have missed Mompox or having at least one go on those colorful buses (the round trip ride to San Felix would have been a perfect opportunity had the roads been open. Next time.
I am really enjoying your monthly newsletters (a very nice perk for your subscribers) and was delighted to read of your ‘ridding out’ experience in the most recent one. I did the same when I set sail in 2011 and never looked back.
Looking forward to seeing where adventures take you both next. You’ve already inspired our future visits to Peru, Bolivia, and Patagonia #someday
What a glorious time you had in Columbia. Now I need to go back. By the way, we don’t make reservations online. Better to explore and more rewarding.
Oh, I do hope your travels bring you back to Colombia Peggy …and me as well. I loved it there. As a recovering Program Manager, it is always difficult to let go of ‘plans’ but incredibly freeing when I manage to do so. Traveling reservations free was definitely a more rewarding way to explore. Lovely to see you here. Thank you so much for your visit.
Wow! Stunning photos and great commentary too, Lisa. Thank you for sharing!
Deb
Thank you for traveling here with me virtually, Deb! Honestly, Colombia was initially not even on my radar …just somewhere to sail through on our way to the finish line. But meeting John and Susan Pazera in the blogosphere changed that and traveling here cemented my love of the place. Can’t wait to come back. Hugs from The San Blas where the sun has finally decided to show herself.
Oh, Lisa, what a time travel you take us on. A proper dream world with unknown but inviting names, faces, landscapes, colours. You do it how it should be done: with on-the-spot planning away from the masses. That’s where the smiles are. Such a happy travel. Amazing photos, architecture and most of all – that riding dog. <3 Thank you and let it last.
What an eloquent comment Manja. I am grateful for your thoughtful feedback and delighted that you enjoyed the journey. Seeing that Caballero come trotting down the street with his canine sidekick was the absolute highlight of my whole visit. I smile every time I think about it. I did record a little film of their entry but thought it was was too short to include in the post.
Hihih, brilliant!
Oh, also: https://www.aboveusonlyskies.com/ is inaccessible here. Only temporary, I hope.
Google Above us only sky. Fantastic bloggers!
Yes, I wished to open their page with the above link but it doesn’t open for me, I don’t know why.
Thanks for letting me know. So odd. I put two links to Above Us Only Skies (must read!) blog and they both seem to be working on my end. The first link titled ‘Above Us Only Skies‘ is to their Colombia category which is a treasure trove for people visiting here. The second link titled ‘Ian and Nicky Mackenzie‘ is to their about page. When I click on them in the post, they seem to work. Are you still having issues with the links?
Interesting. I tried Chrome and Microsoft Edge and no page from their blog worked, but on Opera everything is okay. Well, happy end! 🙂 Thanks!
So great to really see what you’ve been up to. The mention of San Blas and Panama in general makes me sad; I was sure we would meet you there, but life has other plans for us, I guess. We could have never gotten away right now; I am almost frantic with family plans and travel.
The self-driving odyssey around the country looks heavenly to me, in no small part because of your fantastic photos. And I’ve always wanted to try a no-reservations trip for all the reasons you note, and your success here is encouraging. Really enjoyed hearing from you! Have fun in Panama, and congrats on your imminent crossing of that well-earned line!
On the one hand, I am happy that your frantic schedule has kept you away. Much of our time in the steamy hot San Blas has been spent with hatches shuttered given torrential, often lightning and thunder filled rain showers. But during those moments when the windows are open, when we are swimming the (relatively) lush reefs, meeting the Kuna, or dining on fresh seafood in the cockpit, I wish you were here for a second bumble-bee convention to share it all. Hopefully, we have Mexico to look forward to, and regardless, I will definitely pop through Houston as I make my way eastward. I also hope that the family frenzy is joy-filled and am certain you are keeping on top of it all.
Colombia was heavenly indeed and far exceeded my expectations. I would put the experience on par with Vietnam (although certainly different) and long to return there to explore even more deeply (not to mention the rest of South America!!!). I will proudly be donning my ‘adventure skort’ as I cross that line May we both have a full victory lap and lots of reservations free travel in our futures. Stay sane. Love from Panama.
Enjoyed reading about a world unknown to me
Thank you for joining me on the heritage trail Indra! Greatly appreciate your visit.
Am all round astonished at how stunningly beautiful are Colombia and its people. As always, very special photos from you, Lisa. Thank you for keep posting world wonders into my in-box.
Ahoy from the San Blas Tish! Thank you for your love in my in-box 🌞. Honestly, Colombia wasn’t even on my radar (except as a place to sail past on our way back to Panama) until my blogging friends John and Susan suggested we have our cancer scans there. One of the top reasons they’d chosen to relocate to Colombia was the world-class medical system (who would have thunk?). I’m glad we listened. We celebrated the ‘all-clear’ with this road trip, mouth agape the whole way around.
Oh now that is even more marvellous. Well done both of you on the ‘all clear’ reports. And how fabulous to find a nation with ace medical care and where you least expect it. It’s so brilliant the things one discovers from fellow bloggers. The gold star aspect of the internet.
😃🙏#blessed.
Allow me to join my dear Memsahib Tish’s congrats on the “All-clear” report. 🙂
(I normally don’t “barge” into comments, as I feel they’re more private lines of conversation).
A happy communing, I should say – a virtuous circle of well-wishing.
Absolutely. Bon week-end mon amie.
Ahoy to you from Cristobal, Panama Tish!
Ahoy back, me hearties!
Love it #Arghh
You are welcome to ‘chime in ‘ anytime.
Haha! Will do.
The road less traveled, for sure. It has an unreal quality to me, Lisa. I’ve never seen, nor expect to see, cowboys riding down the road, but the landscape is glorious. One thing stopped me in my tracks- 6C is a long way from my comfort zone. But then, you’re up high, and everyone is smiling. How can that be bad? 🙂 🙂 Hugs, darlin!
Hugs back at you from the San Blas!!! The Andes altitudes offered me a welcome respite from the tropical climates in which I now find myself. I grew up in a place that seemed to have winter nine months out of the year and still long for those cooler temps. What was most amazing about Monguí was how few places had heat .. and the restaurants and shops left their doors open to let the cool air in. Needless to say, we spent a lot of time in layers ;-). Luckily, the hotel had heat and cozy linens. The smiles got even wider in Monguí when the sun was shining here.
I wonder, do you miss England’s rainy days in The Algarve?
Continuous dreary rain is hard to miss, Lisa, but I did find endless heat in the summer hard going. It’s much cooler now and people dare to complain! 🙂 🙂 That’s people for you…
😂Well, we are having a bit of England here in the San Blas at the moment with continuous, dreary rain (which makes the heat even worse as we have to close the hatches to keep the boat dry). I just looked up your temperatures in the Algarve and want to sail there now.
Hurry! There’s a light installation show in Faro this weekend, and a few of us are going 🙂 🙂
OMG! Sun and the annual light installation show! I’ve loved your previous light-instillation posts and look forward to seeing what you see in Faro
(virtually of course as we would never make it on time aboard Amandla 😉
Next year then 🙂 🙂
I so enjoyed your jaw-dropping photos and descriptions, Lisa. My first thought was, “I want to go there,” so it was a job well done. 🙂 How amazing that you have friends now living there who were able to advise you on your travels through Colombia. We had next door neighbours here in Florida who were from Colombia and they very kindly brought us back some delicious coffee beans from one of their trips home. They have since returned to live there. I’m looking forward to part two of your Colombian adventure. Safe travels onward. xx
Yay! Mission accomplished. Colombia is one of those places that I fell so much in love with that I want everyone to visit there. While traveling in Medellín and in the nearby Zona Cafetera, we met many locals who’d become US citizens during the violent days and were returning to visit family or moving back permanently to their beloved Colombia. I hope you will find an opportunity to visit your former neighbors in Colombia and see where the world’s best coffee comes from ;-). Delighted that you enjoyed the post. Thank you so much for your kind compliments
😘🤗
Great to see a post popping up from you! And packed with interest and fabulous photography as usual. Hoping to hear more in due course.
Awwww! Delighted to see you here with such generous compliments on the story and images! I hope to post Part 2 before we leave Panama. Just not sure which side of the Canal I will be on when I do! Ahoy from the San Blas.
Ahoy! Happy sailing.
The colors. Oh my goodness – the colors!!! Just amazingly beautiful! Oh, and the cowboys and the mules and the dog! Lisa – you so vividly bring the world into my view. Your writing and your photography is exquisite. I love the wide-eyed wonder and joy you bring to your explorations and then your telling of the experience. Thank you!
Your writing and your photography ARE exquisite.
Making me blush! Love you.
Awwww 😊Miss you and your endless positivity big time. Looking forward to seeing you in 2020 when I find my way back to NYC to replenish the cruising kitty. I laugh that my ‘wide-eyed wonder’ comes through as I confess that I traveled across Colombia in awe, mouth agape for the entirety of the visit. That horse-back riding pup was the highlight of the trip and brings a smile to my face every time I think of him. I made a video of him riding into town but had to trim it to 4 seconds due to poor quality caused my running towards him and then sadly aiming the camera groundward as I greeted him with glee. But I will cherish this 4 seconds clip forever. Big hugs to Richard.
What a thoroughly enjoyable posting, Lisa! Your photos are only surpassed by your prose. I laughed at the dog on horseback. Keep the postings coming.
Love,
Margo
I am grateful for your enthusiastic feedback Margo! Thank you so much. That dog on horseback was the # 1 highlight of my visit to Colombia. I smile every time I think of him riding into town. I took a video of his entrance but had to seriously trim it because of poor quality. At least I was able to salvage 4 seconds of the film :-). Ahoy to Steve. Looking forward to seeing you both when we return to the States in 2020.
Oh my goodness. What a luminous post. The photography and your storytelling are, as usual, fantastic. And THANK YOU so much for the mention 🙂 We can’t wait to get out on the road and explore these pockets of Colombia ourselves, and your blog is the perfect roadmap. Can’t wait to see what Part II holds in store!
OMG, it is I (or we) who should thank you, over and over and over again. Your blog inspired us to visit, your recommendations deepened the experience, and your endless hospitality made us feel right at home. I can’t wait to see you travel to every Pueblo on the trail. I am sad that we only hit 9 and hope we can come back again to see the other 8 AND the Desfile de Silleteros. Thank you so much for the retweets, reblog and endless love. Cheers from the rainy San Blas.
I know you’ll be back! And take your time there – we might just be able to line handle for you yet 🙂
Love it! And you never know, that December 9th date may work out just yet.
Hey, just tried to leave comments on a few of your posts and don’t see them there – perhaps they’ve found their way into your spam folder 😱
I think I just fixed it. For some reason WordPress was showing you as an unapproved visitor. Now you’ve got the seal of approval!
Totally weird. Thank you for getting it sorted so quickly, Glad to be in your innter circle again 😉
Lisa!! So nice to hear from you again … and I almost missed it because your post when to spam. Outrageous!
There is just so much in here to comment on. I’ve never been to Columbia. Your photos and stories show a spectacular country. I wish I could go there RIGHT NOW. I like your kind of travel – slow.
I am relieved that you were able to retrieve my post announcement from the spam folder and come by for a visit Joanne! Always a pleasure to see you here. I’ve missed my blogging buddies but full-on travel, mouth agape the whole way, has kept me away. Delighted that the post left you wanting to venture to Colombia. Such a beautiful country, but given its dark history, many are still hesitant to travel here. On the one hand, I want everyone to visit Colombia because I loved it so much …but on the other hand, I savored the abundance of tourist-free moments. Thank you so much for traveling here with me virtually. Hugs from The San Blas.
That is a big problem. Its reputation for being unsafe is certainly an inhibitor for many travellers. How lucky for you though!!
Lisa! I am glad to see you on line again! I have been wondering what you have been up to. This trip looks amazing. I am encouraged to see that driving around is a good option – same with the lodging tips. I have a friend who would be the best travel companion for this….now – when to actually fit it in. Great images as well – they completely enhanced your story.
With all your upcoming adventures, I’d be amazed if you could squeeze in Colombia in the short-term 😄…but I do hope you will find your way here eventually. Colombia was an unexpected delight in so many ways and definitely one to add to your travel bucket list. All the awesomeness kept me away from the blogosphere. Rainy days in the San Blas have brought me back. Thank you so much for your kind compliments on the images.
I know, not sure when this can fit in! But it’s staying high on the radar. Retirement is around the bend…it can’t come soon enough. 😊
I can’t wait to retire …again, once I’ve replenished the cruising kitty
Great to hear from you Lisa. Thank you for sharing your adventures and discoveries on the Heritage Trail with us. Your photos are stunning as usual. I have Columbia on my list to visit and will refer to your post when I plan my trip. I hope the weather improves and you’ll get some sunny breaks in Panama. I look forward to reading your next post.
Ahoy there Natalie! Thanks for traveling the heritage trail with me virtually and for finding the images stunning. Looking forward to seeing your lens on the place. I am happy to report that we’ve had a few (partially) sunny days this week and are moving to a brand new anchorage later this morning with a reportedly rich reef 🐠🦞🐙
Fab photos my friend! You caught it all!! I know my husband would love to go back (he was born there and moved away when he was 6). If we weren’t retiring to Spokane, WA in 2021 (Yes, all true), we might consider Colombia as a place to live. Keep up your amazing work with your wonderful images, Lisa! Always a treat to see your blog post pop up in my e-mail 🙂
Ahoy from the San Blas Terri! How exciting to hear that you are retiring to Spokane in 2021! What a lovely place to live. I do hope that you find your way to Colombia for a visit though. I can promise you both that you’d be in awe of the place. I was so agog that I practically disappeared from the blogosphere during our travels. Has Hans been back since he left there? Thank you so much for feeling treated when you receive my blog emails and and for your encouraging compliments on the images.
That is nice to hear about lovely Colombia, Lisa. Hans hasn’t been in Colombia, but has made 3 visits to Chile over the years.
Hans is a lucky duck to have visited Chile 3 times. Would love to go there. I hope you both find your way to Colombia soon :-).
Lisa – Fantastic tour through Columbia! I especially love the way you captured the people looking out the windows of their homes, hanging out at the store and dancing in the streets. Your pictures made me feel like I was there with you (wish I was!). Safe travels, be safe and keep on sailing and posting!
Mike Diggity Dog!!!! What a treat to see you here on the blog and with so much love. Thank you so much for hanging out with me on the heritage trail. I hope I get to see you in person at some point when I am back home in the USA in 2020. We are sailing the boat up to the Pacific Side of Mexico, meeting up with Cago, Jean, Nancy and a few others in Puerto Vallarta for a welcome (almost) home reunion in late Jan. Then we’ll store the boat in Puerto Peñasco and head homeward for a time to replenish the cruising kitty.
Well, hello there, Sailor. I’ve been wondering about you a lot lately. All of your posts make me dreamy-eyed with wanderlust and a strange sense of nostalgia, but this one in particular got me tingling. The thought of self-driving such a place is so appealing. I’ve very much been in a loner voyager mood. I imagined that Colombia is very diverse in landscapes, but I had no idea that it has a desert, too. It seems to be the new trendy destination, but it seems like you were off the beaten tourist path. I am definitely picking your brain before I go there. Happy Sails to you in Panama and beyond. So delightful to hear from you.
Ahoy from the San Blas! You’d be amazed at how easy it is to get off the tourist track in Colombia. There are definitely tourist ‘hotspots’ but they are easy to avoid (or cling to depending on your preference ;-). We seriously discussed relocating here; Medellín for the ease of living and even more so, Monguí to nurture my creative soul. Something about that place really spoke to me. In the end, we decided to keep on going for a variety of reasons, but I could easily be persuaded to return here someday for an extended stay. To me it was like Hanoi. Great expat community but easy to disengage from it all and disappear in to the mist. And it is also a gateway to South America …the possibilities are endless. Feel free to reach out anytime you find yourself planning a trip there. And I may reach out to you in the coming months for some Julie wisdom as I am now 100 nautical miles away from crossing ‘my line’ and feel like sailing in the other direction 😉
I can imagine the mixed feelings about The Line. The urge to take off keeps tackling me, then dissipating. Almost 2 years back here already. You can reach out whenever you wish, my dear.
Well if you urge to take off hits again, I sure hope it brings you my way. And I look forward to seeing you as I make my way eastward across the USA in 2020 if you manage to stay put. That you’ve remained resident in your childhood stomping grounds for 2 years is pretty amazing. A testament to your inner healing. Thank you in advance for your ear!
2 years now? OMG. 🙂 I was just telling Lisa about that beer we have in mind. Somewhere… or somewhen…
Take care ,you 2. (Sorry, 3 with the Captain) 😉
Hugs
Brian
Yeah, time flies, comme on dit. 😉
Ouiiii. But it seems to have done you good. I’m happy for that. Bon week-end ma grande.
I hope to join Julie for a beer in 2020. Any chance you will be in the States then?
Hope shared. 🙂 Not sure when you will be “home”. (Chicago, right?) Do you have an approximate ETA? Normally our summer travel plans are France in July. My wife has 3 weeks in July. Then I stay 3 more weeks until mid-August. We don’t have plans for the US yet, but who knows? Maybe, depending on dates we can arrange something. That would be fun.
Home is where the anchor drops (or in land-based terms – wherever I can find work). I will definitely be coming through Chicago to visit family sometime in April or May. I hope to be employed somewhere by July latest. Let’s watch this space and see if we can meet up! It would be a blast.
It would be. Let’s see when and where. 🙂
What do you do for a living? If I may be so bold? Is it compatible with sailing? 🙂
Program Manager (primarily in Financial Services). It is compatible with sailing in that it funded the last lap and hopefully will fund the second one ;-). I would welcome paid opportunities to write as well, but so far, those have been few and far between.
Financial services? What does a Programme manager do? Is that like a Financial adviser?
I can imagine it is more flexible than other jobs. But you need good wi-fi.
Paid to write… LOL. I did get that for years. Paid to write Market research reports… 😉
Now the second lap? Are you already planning to go out sailing again when you “arrive”?
As an FSPM, I facilitated large-scale transformation programs, delivering business process, organization, and technology change to enable the trading business. If I take a role similar to the one I left, I will go back to land for a time and sail onward after the delivery of the Program.
I am happy to report that we have ‘arrived’ at the outbound line and started the victory lap. We are through the Canal and back in the Pacific preparing to sail to Mexico where we will store the boat while I work.
Wow. I am impressed. Both at what you do, and at crossing the Canal. Where and when will store the boat in Mexico?
Your photos and accounts of the pueblos patrimonios make me want to visit and follow in your footsteps. I have met a newly-wed Colombian couple here in Ontario who say that Colombia is fairly diverse now because people who visit like it so much they don’t want to leave. I think that would be me. Glorious colours, vibrant culture, visible indigenous roots. The European melting down of all the gold objets d’art makes me want to weep, but so glad you got to see the ‘remnants’ at the museum, and so glad to know they exist and are valued in this way. Love your blog, intrepid ocean sailor.
Ahoy from the San Blas! Love that you love my blog! Your friends are spot on. Colombia is incredibly diverse and felt surprisingly inclusive. At least I didn’t see the flagrant levels of racial division that I have experienced in some other countries in the region. Perhaps the population has so exhausted itself in the long, violent past that they now prefer to just try and get along. The country is so lovely that we seriously considered relocating here, but in the end, for a variety of reasons, decided to sail onward. Perhaps some other day. I do hope you find yourself in Colombia in your future and I thank you so much for visiting here with me virtually.
It’s so great to see your post Lisa. I’ve been wondering where you were. This is a completely different and refreshing version of Columbia from what I’ve read elsewhere. What a great adventure, and I love that you did it as a self-drive and with no pre-bookings. I can relate to what you say about Booking.com. We got frustrated with it at times on our recent trip to France and were happy to discover a French site featuring small town B&Bs (more on that in an upcoming post).
Your photos are gorgeous.What beautiful variety of colourful towns, interesting characters (I can see why you were captivated by the cowboys) and gorgeous scenery. Your hotel in Aguadas looks amazing. The Pope photo made me chuckle. What a treat to happen upon the parade in Bogota…yes, great when stuff like this happens.
Looking forward to more.
Ahoy from The San Blas Caroline! I am so looking forward to your upcoming post on exploring small towns in France. I adore staying at real B&Bs and am excited to learn more about the travel site you’ve discovered. And I am salivating at the thought of the delicious baked goods you consumed.
Hopeful that your future travels will take you Colombia way. The place has landed a coveted position on my “Top Five” favorites list (although I have a feeling if I were to ever actually sit down and write a Top 5 Favorites post there would be 15 or more countries on it ;-). We seriously thought of relocating here but decided to sail onward for a number of reasons. I cannot wait to visit here again!!! The photo of the Pope was actually The Captain’s idea. At the time, I was too busy admiring all the cowboys to notice the scene. The Captain said ‘take a picture of this’ and I was like ‘yeah, whatever’, snapped it to make him happy, and went back to chasing cowboys. I didn’t realize how much fun the image was it was until I awoke from my cowboy crazed stupor. I should listen to The Captain more often …but don’t tell him I said that.
That’s high praise for Colombia! I would find it almost impossible to do a top 5! The site that came in handy for authentic French experiences was Gîtes de France (great spots and good for being fully immersed in the language… I had to pull out all my old (poor) French.
Ahoy from the Caribbean where we are making way to the last port on my first circumnavigation (Shelter Bay, Panama). I hope you don’t mind, but I updated your comment to add a link to your recommended site. Gites de France looks like it has some amazing properties. Can’t wait to see that post.
Thanks…I was in a rush and forgot to add the link.
What an amazing place! I love your photos and the stories of the people there! You have really taken me on a tour that I will never be able to do myself! Hope you and the captain are well! Take care dear friend!
Colombia was tremendous and I am delighted that you enjoyed the road trip. Thank you so much for your kind words on the images and tales. Hard to believe that a year ago we were moored in Durban discussing plans to meet up with you in Cape Town over the holidays. Looking forward to returning your way again someday. Always a treat to see you here. Best to Dave
Cannot believe that a year has almost past since your visit here. We would love to see you again! Best wishes to the Captain too
Let’s plan on another visit ⛵️💞🌍
Great!!!
Hi Lisa, I think you have found a wormhole. Your adventures into “the past” remind me much of my experiences in Ecuador and some of the scenery looked familiar- the same mountains from a different view. I remember always being so surprised by the combination of past and present. People would be with a donkey, dressed in traditional garb, going about their work in a remote village in the mountains- and then answer their I phone!
Alas, I did not get any amazing photos such as yours. I lack a developed eye. I love the cultural icons- that dog!!! Also loved the parade photos- talk about being in the right place at the right time!
I am off to Jamaica for my daughter’s wedding. We’ll talk when you have crossed the line. Enjoy the moment!
Ha! Colombia was exactly like that with the past and present so intertwined. Amazing that the traditional ways of life can be maintained alongside modern technologies. Thank you so much for your lovely feedback on the images. So excited to hear your daughter’s wedding is upon us. Congratulations to the newlyweds. Have a wonderful time in Jamaica. We’ll be over that line Sunday. 90 nautical miles to go!!! Looking forward to speaking again soon.f
Oh this whole post is so lush, and makes me want to go back to South America. We missed Colombia! Gorgeous gorgeous photos. Thank you for this lovely journey.
Alison
I do hope your future travels bring you Colombia way. I would love to see your lens on the country and I think the place would capture your heart exactly as it has captured mine. Thank you for joining me here virtually and for your lovely compliment on the images.
What a great post! I love the photos of door and shutters in the buildings that open up in segments.
Ahoy from the San Blas Karen. Delighted that you enjoyed the post. If I ever find myself land based again, I would love to live in a colorful little hacienda with those segmented shutter doors.
And great billows of bougainvillea spilling everywhere!
😍Totally!
Really enjoyed this blog and your writing. I appreciate how you talk about the people and the cultures…my favorite part of travel. I’m intrigued and would love to visit too!
So happy to meet another kindred spirit in the blogosphere Lareen. Your shared passions for traveling and exploring cultures deeply had me sign right up for your blog after reading your recent post on Bagan. Looking forward to more and do hope you manage to find yourself in Colombia someday. I think you’d love it. Thank you for traveling here with me virtually.
Great article and great images! Love learning about new, unknown places to me. Will definitely including Colombia to my must-visit list.
Ahoy Slavka! Thank you so much for your lovely compliments on the post. I do hope you manage to find yourself traveling Colombia someday soon. Truly a magical place.
How beautiful! I’ve only been able to have a tiny glimpse of Colombia – one day in Cartagena on a Panama Canal cruise – but I fell in love with what I was able to see in that brief time. I’d love to go back and spend more time there. Thank you for the practical tips on navigation and booking hotels, and your gorgeous photos! Looking forward to part 2 😀
Cartagena is a very special city and I am really happy that you were able to visit on your Canal cruise; a transit that I think everyone should experience at least once in their lives. I do hope you find your way back to Colombia to explore it more deeply. Thank you so much for your comment and lovely compliments on the images.
What an incredible Colombia adventure (so far), Lisa! Your experiences and photos are a delight as always. That first one looks like a painting. So nice that you opt to do some land travel once in a while, feeling and seeing and experiencing a country or island in depth. And, it seems like you had a good time with John and Susan Pazera, who – surprise – have shown up in my world recently as well – blog and Instagram-wise… Is this a coincidence??? 🙂
Enjoy the marvelous San Blas and Kunas! One of our favorite sailing memories were made there! Hugs to you and the Captain as well. xx
No coincidence about John and Susan showing up in your world. I told them all about you and your wonderful writing, wandering, housesitting, dog adopting ways. Am I correct that the San Blas was the last place that you sailed before we met you in the Gambier? I am so delighted to have finally made it here and wish we could linger much, much longer. But we want to cross the Canal before rates go up, and The Captain is having some worrisome troubles with his jaw/throat (that I am hopeful is just a nasty infection that can be cured with antibiotics) so we are leaving Cambobia now and sailing onward to Shelter Bay.
PS. Thank you as always for all the love
Hi Lisa!
I figured you had something to do with us connecting with John and Susan. 🙂 Sorry to hear about the Captain’s throat… You have us worried now, so please let us know how it goes!!
We spent about a year in the San Blas in 2012, with short jaunts to the mainland of Panama for shopping, errands, and to help friends through the Canal. Our last stop before the Gambier was the Galapagos and before that Las Perlas, Panama.
The love is always there!
Ahoy from my outbound line!!! Fabio’s nasty tooth infection and a potentially chronic condition have hopefully been resolved with some fancy dentistry. We should be transiting the Canal (for the 3rd time) on Sunday of all goes according to plan. Your time in the San Blas probably stood out in my mind because of the length of time you spent there and the fact that I had not been there (as I had been to Las Perlas and Galapagos). You are lucky to have experience the San Blas when you did. It was already starting to get crowed by the time that we left and we were here before the seasons really started. We hear that it has been overrun with tourist boats that were previously operating in the BVIs and Puerto Rico.
Hi Lisa, I scrolled through your post a couple of days ago. A huge WOW! I wanted to reread and check out the photos more closely. This is an area I will likely never visit in person. Your photos are unique and exceptionally interesting. I love how you capture the people going about their daily lives. I continue to go back to the table where the men are sitting. I wonder whether they are drinking milkshakes? They don’t seem to mind being photographed.
First time I have heard of “Waze.” Your sentence “Came for a night and stayed for four” says it all. I also love your phrase “creating for the joy of creating.” You make a good point on how some places have less tourist traffic because the information is not found in guide books.
I have difficulty finding words, Lisa, to describe how much I loved everything about this post. Your love for the people, the scenery, the adventure is evident in your prose and in the photos. You are an exceptionally talented woman. Thank you for sharing with us!
Ahoy from Shelter Bay in Panama Erica. Thank you so much for your loving comment on the post and generous compliments on the images. You made my year by finding me to be an ‘exceptionally talented woman’! The cowboys sitting at the table in Santa Fe were wonderful to agree to my making images of them while they were enjoying their milkshakes.I rarely was refused my request to make photographs of the people I met in Colombia and those that did refuse seemed more shy than angry at the request. All the people we met here were so welcoming and friendly. Sorry it took me so long to respond. We were making way to Shelter Bay and upon arrival have been busily reading for our 3rd trip across the Canal (our second on Amandla). Looking forward to being back in the Pacific.
Colombia has been since long on my radar… but where to go, what to do, what to see? This post really made the difference. So glad I found your blog.
Thanks Lisa!
Fabrizio
Ahoy from Panama Fabrizio! Apologies for my delayed response. We were making way here from the San Blas Islands and have been busily readying the boat for another Panama Canal crossing. I so appreciate your visit and kind words on the blog. Delighted to have met you here and look forward to traveling together virtually. Cheers!
My pleasure Lisa, love the blog and really jealous for your lifestyle!
🧜♀️💙✨ Thank you! I am a lucky girl indeed
Oh my, this is such a beautiful, heartwarming post, Lisa! All these years when people talk about Pueblos Patrimonios I only think of the ones in Mexico, which of course look very beautiful. But the ones in Colombia, this is actually the first time I learn about them. The weather seemed glorious when you explored these pretty towns, which adds to the beauty. Speaking of Google Maps, four years ago I did a road trip across Java with three other friends. We relied on the map, but at one point it took us through a village road which was in a bad condition — only trucks or 4×4 vehicles could go, definitely not my cheap, city car. Luckily we survived and arrived at this incredible plateau safely.
I’m bookmarking this post of yours, so when I plan to go to Colombia one day I know I should spend some time in these towns as well. Thanks Lisa!
The weather in Colombia tends to be glorious 2/3s of the year with the exception of rainy seasons in March-April and October-November. Even during those periods, the cities remain comfortable, but the outback can become quite a mud bath with many backroads becoming un-passable. I do hope you manage to find yourself in Colombia for a visit. So many amazing places to visit from the mountains to the sea and still much left untouched by mass tourism. How I would love to do a cross-country road-trip across Java. Next time around. Thank you so much for your lovely compliment, your retweet, and for finding the post valuable enough to bookmark. Always a pleasure to see you here.
Hello.
Your post is one of the best posts which I have read! I loved especially these:
First: Interior Catedral de la Inmaculada Concepcion. You took the picture as I have done the many times, when shooting photos in my country of our medieval churches – in a squatting position. It gives a great perspective.
Second: Music. You had small video “Dancing in the street of Jardine ”. Its style was not Cumbia and I love Cumbias, which origins are Colombia! Cumbias are happy tropical music, which are widely spread all over the western coast line of South America and Central America. Not only there but to U.S.A. also. I have hundreds of them and I started to buy them already in the 70s. I could have given one Cumbia music link here, but I didn’t without permission.
Thank You.
Happy and safe travels!
Delighted that you enjoyed the post. What a treat to meet you here. We seem to have a shared love of photography, music and travel. How I would love to visit Finland someday. Thank you for traveling along the heritage trail with me virtually.
I loved visiting the small towns of Colombia! Each, so different and with their own vibe. Lovely overview!
Colombia is a magnificent country, isn’t it! Wish I’d been armed with your travel tips when we visited here. Many things to look forward to next time around.
So good to hear from you, Lisa! I’ve bookmarked this post for a few days now to find a good time to read and savor it fully. As always, your pictures are incredible. Colombia looks gorgeous–I know a few people who have traveled throughout Colombia, and have heard so many things about it. It is so lovely to see a detailed post about it (with more to come, it seems!), highlighting its many beautiful parts rather than the crime and lack of safety. A few months ago, I read a blog post about someone getting robbed in Bogota, which made me feel wary about ever visiting the country. However, you have reaffirmed that Colombia is truly worth the visit if you plan well and look for the right places. One day!!
And I just read that you crossed your outbound line in Panama today! Congratulations, Ms. Circumnavigator! I’m looking forward to seeing where your journey takes you next. 🙂
Ahoy from Cristobal, Panama Britta! Always a treat to see your smiling face here. And speaking of smiles, you brought a big one to my face with your thoughtful comment and heartfelt congratulations. Amazing to think that we’ve been sailing along together virtually since I was in New Zealand and you were studying in Minnesota. That is 25,990 nautical miles that we’ve shared together. Now I’ve completed my first circumnavigation while you’ve completed your undergraduate studies, taught in Thailand, established a career stateside and started at graduate school. Wow. Where has the time gone? How are you finding the graduate school?
I do hope you visit Colombia some day. I think you’d love it …and they’d love you.
Graduate school is going well! Tiring, but my coursework is satisfying overall.
Crazy how many nautical miles we’ve shared…and how time flies! What a wild few years its been since we first crossed paths. 🙂
Happy Thanksgiving weekend. Sorry for the delayed response. Was crossing the Panama Canal and making way down to San Carlos. Thrilled to hear that graduate school is going well and looking forward to seeing where that degree takes you!
I really enjoyed reading this. Your photos are wonderful as usual, giving a real feel for the area.
Always a pleasure to see you here Amy! Thank you so much for your lovely feedback on the images and for your post-processing insights that have helped me to improve my image-making. Apologies for my delayed response …I’ve been granted only moments of ‘virtual shore leave’ (internet time) as we are readying Amandla for her second Panama Canal transit on Sunday!
Yes, I’ve seen on your Twitter feed as well that you are off and on the internet. I do enjoy catching up with you when that is possible 🙂 Safe travels to you.
I have to admit I’ve never really thought of Columbia as a place to travel, but your post has proven that it has a lot to offer. Lots of great pictures in there. I was also struck at how clean the air seems to be, it a appears that on a clear day you can see forever. I doubt we’ll ever get there, my wife isn’t that adventurous and would be put off by rumors of drug lords.
Honestly Dave, Colombia wasn’t on my radar either. I thought of it as just someplace to sail by on our way back to Panama. I feel so lucky that John and Susan Pazera encouraged us to visit here. And there is so much more that we missed here including great snorkeling, diving and whale watching on the coast and the famous Lost City Hike inland from Santa Marta. The weather was generally picture perfect every day. I can appreciate your wife’s apprehension as I had a bit of that before we disembarked here. I was surprised by how safe I felt traveling Colombia. Ahoy from Cristobal, Panama.
I suppose that’s an advantage to having friends scattered all over the world. Who knows what it’ll lead to?
Probably the best thing about the internet is the friendships it allows you to forge and maintain on the road
Hi Lisa. Was wondering where you were, no posts in a while. I see you’ve been busy. Exploring the beauty of Colombia. I’ve known the country for 40 years and am still amazed at its beauty and variety.
Your post is a great tribute to the Beauty of Colombia and its people.
(Sadly I can’t help regretting the sorry state of Latin America despite its Beauty and the charm of its inhabitants. Something is definitely wrong there. Human nature?)
Now the fact is that a few years ago it had become almost impossible to travel. Uribe (whatever many will tell you has pacified the country. Which may have a cost, but there it is. And his successor, Santos, has made peace with the FARC, no small feat. My in-laws in Colombia seem to have mixed feelings about Duque the new president. Let’s hope the positive trend continues.
Look forward to part 2.
Fair winds
Brian
PS. We’ve been talking about that beer with Julie Riso. 😉 I told her I still see you sailing for a while. Let’s see when and where we may – all – coincide.
(Bons vents)
Ahoy from Cristobal, Panama where we are readying Amandla for her second trip (our third) across the Canal to the Pacific side. Always a treat to see you here and looking forward to that time when you, Julie and I can get together for a beer. My Colombia Part II post touches upon the history that you mention here. I share your hope that the positive trend continues but I am worried at the fragility of the peace but discontent seems to be moving from a simmer to a boil. We’ve been following the recent protests against Iván Duque and hope that the social change can be achieved without more violence. If I’d known your wife was Colombian, I would have reached out to you both for some ‘don’t miss’ insights on the country. Do your inlaws live in Bogota?
Look forward to part II. Always interesting to read “foreigners'” views. My apologies: I confess I sort of skipped a beat about tips in Colombia. In my defence, I didn’t think you’d stay that long. But you did well in your choice of places. (We also went to San Gil a good while back). Truth of the matter is, when we go to Colombia we tend to move around two places: Bogotá and Tolima. Not much more.
Best of luck in maintenance of Amandla. Cheers.
I LOVED Mongui! Glad you felt the same as me. Really really wanna go to the Tatacoa desert next time in Colombia! Amazing piece you did here
Thank you Eric! Lots of Colombia inspiration on your blog with some incredible drone shots. Hope we both have the opportunity to find ourselves in Colombia again someday. So many awesome places to revisit and so many new ones to see
Wow, such a feast of colour! Lovely post as always Lisa!
Ahoy Richard! Always a pleasure to see you here. Thank you so much for your lovely feedback. Apologies for my delayed response. We were transiting the Panama Canal and are now happily back in the Pacific!
Fantastic vibrant colours!
Loved following this trail with you and your photos are wonderful – brought back a flood of SA memories…
Ahoy from the Pacific side of the Panama Canal! Delighted that you enjoyed the post Nilla. I could have stayed a few years in these parts but need to return to work to replenish the cruising kitty. Sailing the boat (slowly) up to Puerto Penñasco, Mexico, putting her in storage, and returning to NYC for a year or so. Then onward across the Pacific again! Life is grand.
Wow, what a plan! I wonder if you’ll find it difficult settling on land after being on the boat for a while – I did.
Will you be heading to Australia at all?
I hear Karel is getting ready for a stint in Patagonia – should be fantastic.
Life is definitely grand.
So envious of Karel! I would love to sail those waters. I just had a WhatsApp from her today. They are in Argentina waiting to sail south. Land life is definitely going to be surreal, but I think it will be an interesting chapter in my story and the cruising kitty is screaming for a little love. Definitely headed Australia way again! Love the place. Any chance you will be Mexico or USA way in the coming months?
Waiting for the right wind.
As long as you know it’s only for a certain time until you take off, then think it’s not so bad.
No, Brian from Equinoxio asked me the same question. Headed for Oz in Feb to renovate until early April, then back to UK for a wedding before returning to Italy. If we’re invited back to volunteer then it’s Glastonbury Festival in the UK last weekend in June, back to Italy in July. After that it’s visa time and that palaver – busy year. 😉
Sounds like a quite a full-schedule, but then I am not suprised. You strike me as a kindred spirit who likes to keep moving! Our paths may not cross in the short term, but I have a feeling we will meet up someday in the future. Looking forward to it.
I think we’re both kindred spirits on the move.
I’m sure our paths will cross somewhere in the world, hope so anyway. 🙂
Forgot to mention, thrown into that is 3 weddings (not just the 1) over 6 months, first one is here just after Christmas…should be fun.
😲Oh my!
Your new profile pic is great! 😉
🥰Awwww, making me blush. Thank You!
Lisa what a joy to wander Columbia with you in this colorful and captivating post. Although I have never been brave enough to travel reservation free it sounds like it was the perfect way for you to journey through the country. Should we ever plan a trip to Columbia I will definitely be coming back to your article as a reference.
It was a joy to have you along for the ride Sue. Although we’ve traveled onward, my heart is still in Colombia. I hope to share the second chapter of our visit there soon but we are so crazed with passage prep that I may not get to it before we hit Costa Rica.
It is incredible to see you sailing all the way round the globe. Felt like yesterday you were in Australia, and now in Colombia. This was such a down-to-earth write up and I felt like I was seeing everything through your eyes. Outstanding street photography. Really like the shot of the café place with the locals drinking at the table and the shot right after of the dog standing up on the horse. It looked happy to see you 😀
That was very resourceful of you to check out digs in person before booking straight up. Sometimes you just never know the quality of a place until you get there, especially if you want a bargain.
I have vaguely heard of Jericó at some point…but not much. Sounds like a quiet town yet to be discovered and as you said, not on the Lonely Planet yet. Nothing like Colombia without coffee 😀 Hope you had a few good cuppas over there to tide you over your travels.
Travel safe to your next destination. Mr Wobbles and his Star Wars crew wave hi and wish you all well 🙂
Ahoy Mabel! It has been an amazing adventure. It seems like just yesterday that we were dining out and photographing street art in Melbourne! I cannot wait to do it again. Thank you so much for your virtual visit with me to Colombia and very thoughtful feedback. I have to admit that it was the Captain who first spied the cowboys drinking milkshakes at the café. He is a great wingman. The dog riding horseback was my absolutely favorite moment of the whole trip. I caught it on film but it was so short (due to all the editing out of the ground shots taken in all the excitement) that I didn’t include it in the post. You can find the four-second film it here if you want to watch it. I highly, highly recommend reservations free travel to validate the quality of the digs before committing. It would be great if there were a search engine that did that rather than just (mis)advertised. Thank you so much for the RT! We are back in the Pacific now and just a hop, skip and a jump from Australia …but it up to Mexico then back to work first to replenish the cruising kitty before we sail westward again. Always a pleasure to see you, Mr. Wobble and his Star Wars crew here 🙉🚀✨
Aha, so the cowboys were drinking milkshakes. I was wondering what they were having and thought they’d go for something more alcoholic. But a milkshake is always amazing. Thank you for sharing the four second film. That dog sure has some great balance lol!
See you around, Lisa. Mr Wobbles and the ever-expanding Star Wars crew say may the force be with you and Amandla 🙉🚀✨
Thank you for watching the canine caballero film. Brings a smile to my face every time I see it. Hugs and may the force be with us all 😘🐒❤️
The colours and scenery, down to the cowboys on horseback had me reminiscing about Trinidad in Cuba. You’re in a beautiful part of the world. This is National Geographic-esque. Thanks for showing us around, Lisa.
Colombia is a very special place that I could have lingered in for a few years. And how I would love to visit your beautiful Trinidad Cuba. We’d hoped to sail to Cuba this season but the current US Administration doesn’t look too kindly on visits there so we’re carrying onward to The Sea of Cortez in Mexico. I’ll treasure the place through your pages until I can visit there myself
At the end of reading the chronicle of his trip, I am pleased to have kept you company in that adventure. His writing of each of his visits is to dream that you are looking directly at her and, if we add the photos so magnificently achieved, the image is complete. There is no paragraph to ignore. I was in Colombia during the 66s of my university youth and could hitchhike without problems. But your trip is another dimension. I enjoyed reading you. Regards.
Ah, the wonderful days of hitchhiking! The Captain tells me stories of traveling Europe and the US by thumb in the 60s, but by the time I was a young adult, hitchhiking was deemed “unsafe” and fell out of favor. The good news is that hitchhiking is making a comeback. We transported two Austrian hitchhikers in the Zona Cafeteria and later, two Italian hitchhikers for several days from Mongui to Medellín. It was a delight to have their youthful spirit aboard. Thank you for such lovely feedback on the post delivered so poetically.
The years came over and there is only the memory of those trips with the dust of the road and the moon as a blanket to alleviate the cold. It is lovely estra in your blog and travel with you.
Your words took me immediately to the heart of those memories ❤️
You certainly are adventurous and fearless. And I am a bit jealous.
Did I tell you that you inspired me to do more exploring in my area? I started a One Park at a Time postings. There are thousands of parks in the Minnesota. I planned to spend the summer doing one park a week, but I ran out of energy.
I thought I was over Adrenal Fatigue. Turns out I wasn’t. But I’m very, very close to being done with all of this.
I have five chapters left of my final rewrite of the third book in my trilogy. Then I send it to my editor for her comments.
Continue having fun on your adventures.
I enjoyed the launch of your ‘One Park At A Time’ series and am very sorry to know that a recurrence of adrenal fatigue has kept you away from cycling in the latter half of the year. Great to hear that you are feeling better now and to know that the third installment in the trilogy is near!
While I’ve stretched my boundaries over the years, you might be surprised to know that fear and comfort cravings can plague the grandest of adventurers. For example, I loathe airplane travel …even if I delight in interplanetary voyages on your fabled rocket ships.
No flying could be why you’re sailing around the world. Nice trade off.
I prefer to fly only because get sea sick.
If and when I take a cruse it has to be on a ship large enough where I can tell I’m on the water.
I’m 20 pages being finished with the 3rd book. Then it goes to the editor.
I’ll be so glad to be finished.
PS Thank you for being a fan. ;0)
Looking forward to reading your next creation! Ahoy from Playa Herradura
Thanks for being a fan.
I’ll let you know when it’s ready.
Now Costa Rica is one place I very much want to go. But not now.
Enjoy Playa Herradura.
Wow what a whirlwhim of an adventure all in one spot! You definately make the most of your time on land. Those Tipico satchels are as colorful as the towns and its people! What were your cultural rock stars drinking in the photo, curious minds want to know.
The cowboys were enjoying a round of milkshakes in that photo …although others seemed to favor beer in the evenings ;-). We’ve sailed onward now to Costa Rica via Panama, but my heart still remains in Colombia. So easy to get off the tourist trail there and find the culture unspoiled and welcoming. Wishing you a Happy, Healthy and Adventure Filled New Year. It will be fun to watch your baby bear blossom in the coming decade.
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🥳Happy New Decade, Yvette
Crazy – eh? And so ready for it ⏳💜
Lisa, I am loving this post! This is just a totally different way of life here. The pictures are great and give us a great view into their world. I especially love the picture of the dog balancing on the horse and Pope Francis!!!!! Monguí looks amazing and I am with you, the weather is perfect! I love how colorful every place is and I really like all of the street art (I know big surprise).
Colombia is a very, very special place. I am longing to return here. Spying that horseback ridding pup was my favorite moment of the whole visit. Thank you so much for all of your love on the post. Ahoy from Zihuatanejo where were are spending a few weeks while the Captain heals a few broken ribs 😱
Fascinating. I love your writing style and photographs. I’m signing up today to follow your amazing adventures.
Ahoy from Zihuatanejo, Sarah. Thank you so much for the follow and for your lovely feedback on the posts. You’ve made my day with your comment
Your post are so nice to read. Interesting information, great photos and places I may never visit myself. I love your sailing adventure. I am not into sailing (too scared of deep and wide water) so I’ll never get to see the world from your point of view. And that’s why it is so fascinating to glimpse into your sailor life and travels.
You are lovely to say, Slavka! Thank you so much for your very kind words. It made my day. I do hope you find your way to Colombia someday. It was a really special place, very affordable and outside of Cartagena, relatively untouched by mass tourism.
The photos are amazing and the words make it even more beautiful. 😀
Thanks for taking us on an armchair travel to Colombia, Lisa. I met amazing friends, a Colombian couple, later last year and they told wonderful stories about their country–we even swapped coins. This post has made the image of Colombia more vivid for me. 😀
Thank you so much for traveling with me virtually to Colombia. I hope your wanderlust will take you there physically someday. Delighted that you found beauty in my words and images. Cheers
You’re most welcome, Lisa. And I’m gonna take another “tour” on your blog this afternoon. 🙂
Gorgeous photos. And thank you for describing your favorite stops. I’ve already saved them on my map and hope to visit someday. Safe travels to you!
I hope that you do Peggy! Colombia was a very special place and one that we long to return to. Thank you so much for your visit and kind compliments.
It was a pleasure! I have limited my travels to Europe and the UK, really just because of finances. I hope to someday start exploring different corners of the earth. Colombia has always fascinated me. 🙂