If our South Pacific transit was all things James Cook, our return to the North Atlantic was infused with Papillon, the infamous escapee from Devils Island.
I was engrossed in his autobiographical novel as we made way from Brazil to the Caribbean via the Íles du Salut, home to the Devil’s Island Penal Colony.
Henri Charrière, aka Papillon (so named for the butterfly tattoo on his chest) tells the story of his wrongful imprisonment in these unforgiving islands and surviving with a dream of escape.
His first cavale took him round trip from incarceration on French Guiana’s mainland to reclusion in French Guiana’s island penal colony via Trinidad, Curaçao, The Guajira Peninsula, Santa Marta, and Barranquilla); many of the places we’d soon be sailing.
His last cavale took him far beyond to ultimate freedom. Gripping and entertaining, his tales are the stuff of legend.
Charrière was a masterful storyteller. Initially, his desire to break out was powered by revenge but eventually only for winning his freedom.
Sailing through hurricanes in a boat crafted by lepers during his first cavale, living with Amerindians on his second, preserving through two multi-year stints in solitary confinement after several more failed attempts to escape, and leaping from a cliff into treacherous waters in his final quest for freedom; I suspended disbelief as I devoured every word. Whether his tome is literal in its entirety, the facts that he survived the place and emerged victorious from this man-made hell are not disputed.
The French operated this island prison from 1852-1947. The general population was detained on Île Royale. Those sentenced to solitary confinement were sent to Île Saint Joseph.
Political prisoners, including the scandalously incarcerated Alfred Dreyfus, were housed at the most terrifying island of all, Íle du Diable. In addition to the prisons in Íles du Salut, there were three more facilities on the mainland which were rumored to be even worse.
Few of the inmates imprisoned at the Devils Island Penal Colony ever returned to France. Conditions were harsh with up to two-thirds of the prisoners dying in residence from a tropical disease, the inmate on inmate violence, malnutrition, or failed escape attempts.
But it is all good here now. If you are sailing or traveling these parts, I highly recommend a stopover at Íles du Salut. The visit broke up our 12 days passage from Brazil into two; 8 days to French Guiana and 4 days to Grenda in the Caribbean.
Don’t have your own sailboat? Not to worry. You can still visit the place on a day trip from the mainland or stay overnight at this penal colony turned boutique hotel. The L’Auberge des Îles has something for every budget.
Live like an inmate with your very own hammock accommodation from just € 14 excluding food and beverage. Or why not upscale to a private room in the Guard House to enjoy all the privilege that comes with freedom.
Whatever your accommodation, all visitors are free to wander the entirety of Île Royale and the portions of Île St Joseph not occupied by the military. Some buildings are beautifully restored, while others are still being reconfigured by Mother Nature.
Île Royale houses the museum, hotel, restaurant, bar and gifts shop with some accommodation allegedly available on Saint Joseph. Access to Île Diable remains prohibited although we did sail past it and see the military arrive there by helicopter one day.
Just make sure you organize your visit clear of any government or commercially sponsored rocket launches from the Guiana Space Center. The Íles du Salut are located beneath the trajectory and are evacuated during such events.
In July, a rocket carrying a satellite for the United Arab Emirates failed shortly after taking off, leading to the loss of the mission.
Happily, we’d sailed away by then.
Lisa, this post captured me entirely and I was right there with you. Charrière was a masterful storyteller, as are you!
😊 Aww. You are lovely to say Donna. Glad to have you by my side virtually.
Hello Lisa, yet another excellent article from you. I am looking forward to visit these islands in November. Best regards. Paul. S/Y New Dawn.
Ahoy from Colombia Paul! If it weren’t for Sukah and Tehani Li, we might have bypassed this place and sailed straight through. Thank goodness they talked us into stopping. I bought the book on my Kindle right before we left Brazil and was mesmerized the entire passage. Dale read it when we were in the anchorage and we all had lots of fun discussing it while visiting there. I wish you had been buddy-boating with us and wish you a safe passage when you do head that way.
What a glorious post. Thanks for taking me there.
Am delighted that you enjoyed it Peggy! I hope you are staying dry in Vietnam and enjoying time with your daughter
Not dry, but all good.
Chilling strands through this marvellous travelogue, Lisa. I remember being shocked to the core by the Steve McQueen version of Papillon. You have now whetted my appetite to read the book. That final quote could not be a more fitting commentary on why we now have a climate emergency – that our leaders are so studiously ignoring.
Tish, you took the words right out of my mouth … although admittedly my version wasn’t nearly as eloquent as yours.
Great minds…
Well said Tish. We’ve continued to ‘progress’ at an exponential rate since Charrière first penned those words and the leadership vacuum has exacerbated the negative results. A good time to be sailing. Thank you for your passionate feedback. And you’ve further whet my appetite to experience the Steve McQueen film.
All of this is pretty mesmerising and hard to grasp that such a prison is now a boutique hotel. I read the book at a (too) early time of my life but it was useful because it told me to never ever ever ever land in prison! 😀 I love all your photos and the one of you is suitably devastating. I want to rescue you! To lucky escapes and happy sailing on!
The movie ‘Midnight Express’ was my inspiration for staying out of trouble. Not sure if you ever saw it but it was definitely a good motivator. I love that you love the photos and especially the one of me behind bars. That quote below resonated with me the most of any in the book as I near the completion of my first “cavele” and contemplate whether to return to the ‘every day’. Your rescue will always be welcome ;-).
I read the book and saw the movie as a teenager. To say I was appalled would be an understatement. I can imagine how rich the experience would have been to visit these islands shortly after reading the book. Your storytelling is compelling and pulls us in with you.
I loved your line “Some buildings are beautifully restored, while others are still being reconfigured by Mother Nature.” Yes, Mother Nature is a tireless decorator 🙂
The picture of the rainbows is magnificent!! What an adventure you’ve had!!
Not sure why I hadn’t read the book or seen the movie in my tween years as both were all the rage at the time. But the delay was well worth it to experience the book ‘in the moment’. Mother Nature is my favorite artist and she has definitely improved man’s shameful creations. If we are not careful, she’ll have the entire globe to work with …solo. Delighted that you found my storytelling compelling. Thank you.
Amazing.
I knew nothing of this penal colony. It brought me back to Port Arthur in Tasmania.
No escapees from that prison either!
And now another book to read in my ever growing list of books! Papillon.🦋
The pictures are gorgeous, the rainbow and the boat: perfect!
I knew of the Port Arthur Massacre given its relevance to what is going on in the States right now but was not familiar with the prison. Just read up on it. Yet another example of mankind’s excessive brutality. And to think the place was once hailed as the enlightened version of incarceration. A sail to Tasmania is on our list for our next time around. Always a delight to see you here Barbara. Thank you for your lovely feedback on the images.
What a special treat to read about a place before visiting it. Henri Charrière’s autobiographical novel sounds quite enticing. I’ve added it to my to-read list. Sounds pretty scary to be imprisoned on an island across the ocean from one’s homeland!
That last quote speaks to me hardcore. We humans are too engrossed on discovering the next best technological development/life hack that we fail to enjoy what we have. Sounds like Charrière was a man after my own heart. 🙂
Always lovely to see an update from you. I always learn something new about the world when I read your posts, too!
Being able to time the read with the visit really made the book come alive for me but it would have been amazing to read wherever …it is really that good. I can’t believe it took me so long to read it as it was all the rage when I was a tween. Still so relevant and insightful today. And you are right-on… the best life hack would be to learn to savor the the moment and be grateful for the abundance of our everyday lives! Thank you for coming along on this ‘field-trip’. Always a treat to travel with you virtually. Hugs from Colombia 🤗😘
How far away you seem now! But also how lovely to still be enjoying your stories from a distance. I remember Papillion, the book and the original film. They fascinated and appalled me. Did you sense sorrow as you walked about taking photos?
More than halfway around from you at this longitude but headed back your way eventually⛵️💞🇳🇿
On Íle Royale, I was surprised to find myself relaxed, cheerful and longing to linger in the former penal colony. Papillon’s sentiment (‘if you didn’t know what was there besides, you might want to live there the rest of your life’) resonated. But on Íle St Joseph, there was definitely a deafening silence brought about by reminders of man’s brutality. It was crawling with ghosts.
Hi Lisa – What an adventure you’ve had! Your wonderful story telling and beautiful photos made Papillon alive in my mind again. I read the book a long time ago. Thank you for taking me to these islands.
Ahoy from Cartagena Natalie! So pleased that you enjoyed the latest travel adventure! Thank you for the love.
Masterful, Lisa! What a wonderful vicarious journey you took us on. As others have said, you made me want to read the book. Glad you escaped the rocket, and thank you for giving your readers a great escape!
Hard to believe neither of us read the book when we were tweens. I remember the Steve McQuuen version of the movie playing at the Deerpath in 1973 but I never saw it. Perhaps my parents didn’t think an originally ‘R’ rated negotiated down to ‘PG’ by an appeal from the movie studio was appropriate viewing for their beloved 11 y.o. Although they were pretty liberal with me, so who knows. Thank you so much for escaping here with me and for coming through to the blog to leave such an enthusiastic comment. Ahoy from Cartagena
Great photos and descriptions of a place I’ll never visit, but your updates give me the feeling I have. Good to see how past brutalities have been both acknowledged and reconfigured. I read the book when it first came out, but had forgotten Charriere was such a philospher. Thanks for bringing beauty to my desk.
Multi-year stints in solotary either break a man or turn him into a sage I guess… luckily for Papillon it was the later. Thank you so much for coming along for the adventure and for your valuable insights that are helping me to hone my storytelling skills. Ahoy from Colombia
Excellent post, amiga. Love the pic of you behind bars – you look so forlorn! John and I both read a very worn copy of Papillon when we were traveling on our own boat. We must have picked it up at some book exchange in some cruiser’s hangout on the Pacific coast, probably Mexico. We were both enthralled, even when the pages fell out of the book as soon as we read them! Even if Charrière embellished some of it (likely), it’s still such an incredible story of survival and determination. We’re looking forward to visiting these places when we get to French Guiana.
Ahiy from Ferro Alquimar. Amandla came out the water this morning and we are headed your way! Medellín here we come. See you tomorrow morning!
The inspiration for the ‘Lisa Behind Bars’ picture was the Charrière’s quote underneath. It really resonated with me as I contemplate returning to the everyday world after my own grand cavale around the globe 😂. When are you headed to French Guiana?
Such beautiful islands to have seen so much misery. 🙁 Incarcerated in Leeds, surrounded by high rise building projects, and I constantly ask myself why anyone wants to live so high. Though if I were living rough on these streets I’d be grateful for anywhere, Lisa.
High-rises are not my cup of tea either. I lived in one for a year but felt too far removed from just about everything to enjoy it much …but far better than the streets indeed. When will you be sprung from your steel and glass surrounds?
A week tomorrow. But there are other compensations, Lisa 👪💕
…making it more than worth it to be in a concrete jungle 🏙💙
Prison theme again. So many island prisons. Loved the story behind it!
Indeed. So pleased you enjoyed the story. Ahoy from the bus to Medellin 🚌🇨🇴
It is heartbreaking that such rich and beautiful islands were used for such dark and cruel purposes. I know I saw the movie (the 1973 version; I noticed that a new one was filmed in 2018), but I wonder now if I read the book. Either way, It is now on my library borrowing list. How magnificent that you were able to read the author’s words as you walked through the buildings and imagined the horror of his, and the other prisoners’, existence there. Like many of the commenters, I was struck especially by your last quote and how it resonates today (maybe even more so than back then). In a way, many of us are prisoners of the advancement of technology, aren’t we?
Eloquently put Janis. Technology has advanced exponentially since Charrière penned those words making them more relevant than ever. I am reminded of another favorite quote from My Dinner with André that I think could be used to describe many of our recent technological advancements. I’ve replaced “New York” in the quote below …
” [The Internet] is the new model for the new concentration camp. Where the camp has been built by the inmates themselves, and the inmates are the guards and they have this pride in this thing they’ve built.
“They’ve built their own prison, so they exist in a state of schizophrenia. They’re both guards and prisoners and as a result, they no longer have, having been lobotomized, the capacity to leave the prison they’ve made, or to even see it as a prison.
Ahoy from the road to Medellín. We should be arriving in an hour
Such a well-constructed post – you had me enthralled.
😀🤗😘 Thank you for your very kind feedback Anabel. Am so pleased that you enjoyed the post. Ahoy from Medellín
Ahoy!!
Your photos are wonderful, even if the history of the islands it not. So much suffering, I hardly want to think about it. Perhaps all todays’ visitors, including you, will help cleanse the place. It looks beautiful.
Alison
ILe Royale had a surprisingly peaceful feel to it but Ile St Joseph still seemed to be filled with a sense of loss and saddness. it was difficult to stay there very long. Thank you for your lovely feedback on the images. Ahoy from Medellin. Just arrived today
Fascinating info, much of it new to me. I did not know much at all about Charrière (I have vague memories of Steve McQueen playing Papillon but can’t remember a single thing about that movie). And “cavale” – I am intrigued by this word! Never heard it and am eager to study its etymology. I get its meaning, but it’s an odd term to me, not quite noun-like as it’s used. Anyway, fun post and wonderful connection of your images to his words.
Ahoy from Medellín. Though of you as we snaked our way across the mountain pass at sunrise this morning. I’ve barely experienced the place but immediately felt that you’d love it here. Looking forward to exploring between medical visits. I wonder if you’ve started your adventures in Utah and Idaho yet
Am delighted to have intrigued the Mpanjaka Of The Word with the term ‘Cavale’. It has become a new favourite for me as well given a sense that my own cavale from the everyday world is coming to its conclusion. Glad you enjoyed the post.
Idaho and Utah start at the end of this week! I love my new title, but the end of that sentence arrested me – are you really at a conclusion of sorts? We will have to discuss offline … will write you later!
Looking forward to some Lexie wisdom as I craft my next act 🙂
I read the book and saw the movie so many years ago that I don’t remember the whole story, but now I want to go back and read it again.
Not sure my older bones would want to spend the night there in an inmate’s hammock, I think my back would thank me in the morning if I opted for the guardhouse accommodations 😉
And stunning photos as always Lisa!
😂 I have advanced beyond my hammock years as well. Luckily our accommodations aboard Amandla make the liveaboard life comfortable. Otherwise I would have opted for the guardhouse myself. Thank you for touring the islands with me and for your generous compliments on the images.
Brilliant post, Lisa. I can feel the despair and hopelessness of the place. I’ve heard of Papillon (the word is French for butterfly, btw). But I don’t know the story. The quotes inspire me to read it. I think I may have told you that I lived in another French territory that was a penal colony- New Caledonia. Spent 7 years there. The descendants of prisoners still populate the island. There are incredible stories of escape to Australia. It’s a place haunted by its past. I was very unhappy and physically ill during my time there. French Guiana intrigues me because it’s so far off the beaten path. Thank you for always taking me to such mysterious places.
I was aware that you’d lived in New Cal but had no idea it was for such a long time. I was in Noumea for 2 weeks and found the energy toxic. Too much anger between the three groups wanting to dominate the place. I can imagine what seven years there did to your soul (although you seemed to have emerged from your layers of darkness beautifully). Thank you for joining me on cavale virtually and for your friendship 🤗😘
So not surprised you picked up on that energy. Toxic is exactly the word for it. Poison. My dear, I’m so honored to be a part of your journey. ❤️
…and I don’t use that word lightly. Of the 62 countries I have traveled to, New Cal is the only one I would describe that way.
I love how you’ve combined pieces and quotes from Papillon’s story (I can resonate with the last one the best) and real-time photos and your own experiences, Lisa. What a captivating group of islands. It makes for a very fun and interesting narrative. I’m glad to find out one could visit on a budget. Have you ever seen the movie as well?
Ahoy from Medillín Liesbet. Thank you so much for the positive feedback on the post. I had a lot of fun writing this one. It actually flowed pretty easily for a change. I have never seen either the new or old film but now want to see both! Big hugs to Maya and Mark.
Oh, great! Now I have to add a re-read of Papillon to my every lengthening list of books 😉
JK – I enjoyed reading this post and the gorgeous photos. I doubt I will ever have the chance to visit these islands but I’ve had the pleasure of visiting them through your post, Lisa. Thanks!
Deb
😂You always make me laugh Deb! I need a bit of humor today as we are in Medellin for the Captain’s cancer scans 🤞. Thank you so much for taking the trip with me visual and adding a bit of levity to my everyday.
Sending positive thoughts for good news for the Captain and you!
Thank you Deb!
Like so many others, I also love your quote, Lisa. I always find it interesting to see which words resonate the best with me, when reading, and I am a sucker for a good quote. The information is fascinating, and I marvel at how a place that looks so tranquil and serene, can have such a violent history. Shocking and sad. I’m glad you got to visit it, as I could get to know of a place I never knew existed, and which I will never visit. And that is where technology is wonderful – that I can have a travel experience without leaving my couch. 🙂
Connecting people in a positive way is definitely the upside of technology. I too love a good quote and am especially moved by insightful voices that seemed to understand our ‘of the moment’ issues so many years earlier. While I had expected the amazing adventure stories that Papillon delivered, I was even more delighted by the unexpected insights. Thank you for sojourning with me in the blogosphere. It is always a pleasure to have you by my side.
It is a joy to be by your side, Lisa. Happy sailing!
So interesting to see this island. I only remember the classic Dustin Hoffman/Steve McQueen movie, great to see the real history.
Maybe Wild Heart will bring you here someday! Thanks for sharing it with me virtually, Ahoy from Medellin
What a wonderful story and beautiful photos Lisa!
Such a shame that these gorgeous islands are used for such dark purposes and their isolation breeds a free-for-all with guards against incarcerated inmates.
I read Papillon when I was quite young then saw the first movie. But, now you’ve inspired me to read the novel again as you brought to life vivid memories of reading the novel.
It’s hard to believe that it was first published in 1969. It’s way ahead of its time and reminds me of Orwell’s 1984.
While I expected adventure from Charrière (and he delivered) I was pleasanly surprised by the sagely wisdom throughout. It was wonderful to be able to experience the book real time. Always a treat to see you here. Thank you so much for your gorgeous feedback.
I saw the movie, way back when and it was one that actually imprinted itself in my memory. So to read your post and enjoy your photos really brought it back “to life” for me.Enjoyed how you wove the story into your own reality! I have not read the book, but would, now, if I could get my hands on it. Im not one for kindle, I need paper!
Peta
You and the Captain are both paper lovers! The Captain always picks up a new book or two at anchorage swaps. I read books on my phone :-). I never saw the movie but I am keen to do so now. Both versions. Hope you are loving life in Vietnam (and I know younare :-). Appreciate your kind words on the post. Big hugs to Ben. Ahiy from Medellin.
How interesting to read this story and your images punctuate it beautifully, Lisa! I read from your comment that you are in Colombia now (where my hubby was born)–we are intrigued by Medellin! It’s nice to know such an interesting place can still be visited! You really have to let me know when you get close to North America!
Medellín and surrounds are a must visit. The drug wars are a thing of the past here, the people are seriously welcoming, the mountainous landscapes stunning all for a very affordable price. World class medical care too which is why we are here (Captain having cancer scans and some other diagnostics.). The current plan is to sail to La Paz by Jan/Feb then onward overland into the US by April to find work to replenish the cruising kitty for a victory lap. Thank you so much for your love and suppoert. Cheers!
Hi Lisa, I enjoy reading autobiographies and Henri Charriere’s sounds intriguing especially your description “gripping and entertaining.” The sites would hold more significance when you know the stories. I am in awe as to how Papillon survived. Like you said many prisoners did not make it for many reasons. I like your addition of the map and the Wikipedia descriptions. I don’t know about the option of the boutique hotel, although you gave many suggestions. It actually sounds like fun. A very interesting article Lisa! Thank you for introducing me to the person and the writer Papillon. Your photos are spectacular!
Thank you for such heartening feedback on the post Erica. Delighted that you found the images spectacular and the article interesting. Knowing the story of a place definitely enriches the experience and I need to make a point of reading autobiographical and/or historical work of each of the places that I visit to bring them even more alive. This place was tied for ‘favorite’ experience. When I was traveling in Hanoi, the Ken Burns documentary on the Vietnam War had just come out and was available for free streaming. I would watch the history each evening and then walk in those same places during the day. Wonderful way to travel.
The book sound interesting, I don’t enjoy reading any prison or prisoner’s story. The cruelty terrified me…
Thank you for the tour of the island via beautiful photos, Lisa. It always a privilege to travel with you. 🙂
Thank you for joining me here Amy and for your kind compliments. I am not much for prison stories for the same reasons you mention and likely wouldn’t have picked this book up if I’d not been traveling here. But in the end, I delighted in the escape adventures and wisdom found within.
I don’t often think of the dark side of the Carribbean, although I was conscious of the slave culture and slave revolts in Jamaica when we were there. It is good to understand the history of such places. It keeps us from getting too comfortable in our Americanized resorts. My husband would love touring these islands. I haven’t read the book or seen the movie, and was vaguely aware of the context of them. I would visit, but probably pass on the penal colony boutique hotel!
There are options to visit here on a day trip (via Catamaran) but stay on the mainland in Kourou if you ever find yourself in French Guiana. We’ve made our way to Colombia now (via Grenada, Bonaire and Curacao) and I am loving learning about the history here as well as watching a bright future unfold. if you’ve ever considered an ex pat life, this is the place to move. Universal Healthcare ranked higher quality than the US by World Health Organization (WHO) …Colombia’is #22 in the world and the U.S. is 37th). We are here for The Captain’s cancer scans and a variety of other checkups (although we are private pay given we are not residents).
Papillon? Hmmm. Read that (in French) when it came out. Early 70’s if I recall. Quite a story. Charrière eventually moved to Venezuela. He was interviewed by the French TV. Strangely enough he’d forgotten a lot of French.
Enjoy Medellín. And the coffee and the “Bandeja paisa”. (Ask for it)
Really interesting that Charrière forgot a lot of French. The Captain has been living outside of Italy for almost as long as Charrière was in Venezuela, and while he may occasionally forget non-native words, he has never forgotten any in his mother tongue.Perhaps is was Charrière’s imprisonment by French speakers that caused the block.
No idea. Glad the Captain hasn’t forgotten niente. I think Charrière hadn’t spoken any French at all when he came “back” in the limelight. His Mémoires were largely written by a ghost writer. I must admit sometimes, I stumble on a French word, because other languages (Spanish or English) come more easily to mind. Arrivederci. 😉
Spanish and English are definitely easier than French. Interestingly, I am picking up Spanish in Colombia more easily than I have ever picked up French even though I have actually spent more time in French-speaking countries. While I’d never heard that Papillon was ghostwritten, I have read that Charrière HEAVILY borrowed from other inmates in telling ‘his own’ story.
French is a Romance language sopken and written with a Germanic accent. Many sounds are borrowed from German: the EUH sound. ON, IN, AN, etc. And the R is typically Germanic. Plus the grammar is very complicated. 🙂 Good that you’re picking up Spanish.
About Papillon, it is a rumour. At that time many books were ghost-written with no mention of the real writer. And yes, it is rumoured he borrowed heavily. But that’s what makes a good story. 🙂
(Bandeja paisa is a local dish)
Have not yet come across Bandeja Paisa but I just googled it and it looks yummy. Will seek it out.
Very typical of Antioquia and Medellín. They are nicknamed “paisa” by the rest of Colombians, and it is yummy. Tell me what you think afterwards.
We had Bandeja paisa last evening and it was like having a fat-laden breakfast at dinner; delicious but dangerous for the heart.
Haha! I had not thought of that, but for dinner it might be a bit heavy. 🙂 And you’re right, similar to an English breakfast sans kipper. Have you had lechona? (For lunch preferably)
🐽no but we have had mondongo …at least The Captain has … I don’t do tripe
Haha! Mondongo is hard. I don’t do it in Colombia. In France yes, though it’s been a long time. You probably have noticed that heavy stuff should be eaten at lunchtime, right?
Or breakfast 😂
Haha! Actually “Paisas”, what the people of Antioquia are called eat beans for breakfast, lunch and supper.
A fascinating place I doubt I shall ever see but a very interesting read. You made Papillon’s story come alive. From Paradise to Hell then back to Paradise. Your rainbow photo seems quite symbolic. Lovely photos as usual, Lisa.
Thank you so much for your supportive and encouraging feedback on the post. Delighted that you found it both interesting and visually lovely.
Yes, progress certainly has consequences and if no parameters are established, a dangerous road it leads us to. A great time to be sailing, it’s the present and the water…happy sails.
A great time to be sailing indeed 😉. Thank you for your visit and thoughtful comment.
Lisa it must have been eerie to be there knowing all of the history. I had a case of serious goosebumps just reading the post and following along with your gorgeous photos. Interesting how the boutique hotel has opened . I’m definitely in for a room at the guard house. also glad to hear of the day trips or overnights if you don’t have you own boat. As I was reading that had been a question on my mind. Safe travels onward my friend.
Eerie indeed, especially at Ile St Joseph (the solitary confinement island). One needn’t even read the book to experience the feeling of ghosts still lingering in that place. Ile Royale was far more peaceful; even Charrière said that if you didn’t know what was there, you might want to live there the rest of your life. I too would be a guardhouse gal if I hadn’t had a sailboat to sleep on… my hammock days are way behind me at this point. Thank you so much for your visit and retweet. Apologies for my delays in responding. Juggling our time between tours and doctors visits here in Medellin has made me a poor correspondent.
Hoping the doctor visits are routine checks Lisa. Sending hugs.
Good news! The Captain’s cancer scans were clean! To celebrate we are going to do a Colombia road-trip then slowly sail our way up to Baja, Mexico. Thank you so much for the hugs!
I’ve learned new things once again. What a fascinating place. I may have to spring for the Guard’s House as I’ve never managed to doze off in a hammock (weird, I know)!
Ahoy from Colombia! Lovely to hear from you. Delighted in your recent post on hiking Brandywine. What a glorious place.
Honestly, you are not missing much never having experienced a hammock doze. I’ve never found them very comfortable.
So many books, so little time. I saw the movie years ago and have forgotten most of it, but your quotes, pictures, and narrative suggest maybe that book should find itself in the to be read stack. (Which, alas, rarely diminishes.)
Ahoy from Medellín Dave! Papillon is well worth the read! I hope the book finds its way to the top of your stack!
Never heard of the guy so I looked him up. Tough life, tough man. So many books—so true.
I ordered the movie form the library, but I’m not sure it follows the life I just read about. I’ll watch it anyway.
I so want to see both versions of the movie. It is my undestanding that each stray from the book (which in itself strays from the factual) but both are billed as seriously entertaining.
“Seriously entertaining” is relative. It was a bit intense for me.
I was hoping for a story about his many escapes and his adventures in between incarcerations.
The movie was mostly about his imprisonment. I fast forward to see what happened after his escape, but the imprisonment went on and on. I stopped watching.
This is why I prefer fantasy to reality, more fun. ;0) Hugs.
Ha! I probably should have used ‘riveting’ instead of entertaining and I can completely understand how watching hours of imprisonment might not be everyone’s thing 😉
Yea, and not everyone likes to live in the make believe. It’s common ground that makes friends. ;0)
…well luckily we both love make-believe 🧜♀️🛸
;0)
A great write-up of the history of Devils Island and crisp shots of what it is today. Sounds like a place where you can roam to your heart’s content so long as you don’t step anywhere off limits. The hammock accommodation looks impressive –and I’m guessing it’s supposed to be a quiet space to take a nap or have a bit of rest 😀 The shot of you behind the bars is a great one. Love that look on your face. Safe travels and the Wobble clan wishes you well. They are prepared to send food to you if you need it 🙂
Ahoy from Medellin! Great to see you and the whole Wobbles clan here for a visit. I laughed at your offer to ‘bring food’. Glad you enjoyed my sense of humor ‘behind bars’. I am feeling a bit ‘caged’ (or should I say rudderless) as I try to figure out what is next after this first circumnavigation. Am currently enjoying a bit of ‘me’ time in Medellin while The Captain shows a friend around Cartagena. A good place to relax and get clarity. Thanks for your visit and love!
Good to hear you have some down time Lisa. I am sure you will figure where to from here next. Maybe round 2 round the globe. Sail safe 🙂
Would love to take a victory lap 😍
enjoyed this post – well done – entertaining and educational
🙂
and love the one of you with the bars in your hand. ha!
also, the hammocks- I need to show my hubs this post because he will like that photo –
he is really into hammocks these days and has a few different types for camping.
Delighted that you enjoyed the post Yvette! My hammock days are behind me but I still enjoy camping (well probaqbly more like glamping). Do you go camping with your hubby? Ahoy from Le Ceja, Colombia
Hope Columbia is enjoyable – and no – I am not that into the hiking and camping (but maybe a little glamping…)
Wishing you a nice day- 😊
Colombia is lovely and very affordable …allowing us to stay in some lovely little Pousadas along our way (no camping or glamping for us this road-trip 🙂
Right on!!!
A marvelous post, Lisa. You’re quite the raconteur yourself and the photos are great. I saw the original Papillon movie in 1973 and now have to see the new version. Enjoy your stay in Columbia and safe travels. 😘
Thank you for your visit and the lovely moniker Sylvia! I far prefer ‘ranconteur’ to ‘workaholic who really needs to leave the office’ which is how I would have described myself for many, many years. We are currently enjoying the picturesque pueblo, Jericó which I highly recommend if you find yourself in Colombia!
What an interesting story!!! I now want to watch the movie too. That photo with the rainbow behind the boat is a stunner. When I was a kid (little) I thought penal colony meant something else. haha. I would love to visit this place – thank you for sharing!! I have never slept in a hammock, but recently bought a shelter used to hammock camp (I used it for something else). Maybe I will give it a go. Have a wonderful day!
Apologies for my delay in responding. Your comment ended up sadly miscategorized as spam (far from it). I’ll be interested to hear how your hammock experience goes. I used to fight with my sister over ‘rights’ to the backyard hammock when I was a kid, but now far prefer a sailing berth or comfy bed :-). I’ll be interested to hear what you think of the movie when you see it (and you made me roar with your youthful understanding of ‘penal colony’). Ahoy from Jardin, Colombia.
haha – sister fights – so much fun. I’ll let you know on all fronts!! have a wonderful week!
Wow! Portals into another dimension all together, this! I love that final quote from Papillon. What is the tragedy that 50 years later, his words ring just as true? I’ve watched the 1973 film starring Steve McQueen and Dustin Hoffman but now am really intrigued to read the memoir you’ve finished.
I was taken aback when I read those sagely words that are more true now than ever. While I did not see the film, my understanding is that it primarily focused on the horrors of imprisonment. There were many more adventure tales than I was expecting and a great deal of wisdom that made the book (and the visit here) such a delight for me.
You’re absolutely right. The film not only shows the brutality of prison life, but also Charrière’s indomitable desire for freedom at any cost. Shades of “Shawshank Redemption.”
I would love to see the movie. It was a hit in my tweens but I have never managed to see it.
[…] Read the rest here: Sailing to Freedom: Our Escape to Devils Island […]
It must have been wonderful to have the words from his memoirs fresh in your head whilst visiting. Hugely moving I can imagine. Thank you for sharing this with us, your insights are extremely thought provoking!
The experience was seriously enriched by his words Nicky. I expected a lot of prison horrors and adventure tales but was most moved by the unexpected wisdom. Thank you so much for your visit, social shares and most of all, for the wisdom that you and Ian shared on Colombia which has made our travel experience here. Expect a shout out on my upcoming Colombia post.
Old prisons really fascinate me, and this one is in such a beautiful location! The photo of the rainbow is especially lovely.
The tranquil beauty of the main island (Royale) was such a contrast with its brutal past. But somehow, an overwhelming sense of sorrow seemed to emanate on the solitary confinement island (Île Saint Joseph). The rainbow that appeared in the anchorage provided some much-needed positivity after our tour. Lovely to meet you here in the virtual anchorage. Thank you so much for your lovely comment.
What a fabulous way to explore a place especially through the eyes of someone who lived the terrible history! Amazing read 🙂
Since our sails to South Africa, I’ve committed to reading at least one non-fiction or historical fiction book in each region we visit. Currently devouring Gabriel Garcia Marquez in Colombia, Will have to hit you up for recommendations when we sail back to Australia on our victory lap! Thank you so much for traveling French Guiana with me virtually!
I absolutely enjoyed this post, Lisa! Love how you blended the story of your visit with the story of Papillon, and the history of the island. You are great storyteller. Now I need to read Papillon. The story reminds me of the Count of Monte Cristo, though unfortunately it’s not fiction. How terrifying must have been, and what an interesting idea to turn a prison into a boutique hotel. I’m not so sure I’d stay there, it would feel so eerie… I get chills when I visit historical prisons (not a great feeling). Thanks for a great read.
You absolutely made my day with your lovely compliment about my storytelling. Thank you!!! Interestingly, while Ile St Joseph (the solitary confinement island) seemed to be filled with negative energy, Ile Royale (home to the once general prison turned boutique hotel) was incredibly tranquil. Even Charrière described it as such when he arrived at the islands. But still, I think I would have been a bit challenged to stay overnight on Ile Royale. Being able to anchor outside in our floating home was really a blessing here.
The story of Papillon would definitely have made this visit more meaningful to you, and that shows through in your writing. Did you see the movie as well as read the book?
An island paradise with a dark past and a living Hell to many. The stuff of nightmares.
I have yet to see the movie but I am quite encouraged to do so now that I’ve experienced the islands first-hand. The Steve McQueen version of the film was quite popular when I was a tween, but my parents wouldn’t let me see the movie. Reading the book while visiting here definitely deepened the experience. Thank you so much for traveling here with me virtually.