The sound of beating drums emanated from Isla Ustupu, increasing in number and intensity as we sailed closer to the village anchorage. Only an occasional, smoke-infused “crack, pop, bang” interrupted their rhythm.
We’d made way to here from Cartagena, Colombia, checking into Panama at Puerto Obaldia, a remote backwater along the edge of Guna Yala where we received the final passport stamp of our circumnavigation. No new country to add to the list with only 180 nautical miles remaining to our outbound line off Fort Sherman.
Bittersweet.
Translating this 6.75 years voyage into weeks, I am on the Sunday evening of my journey, longing to sail in the opposite direction. I find the prospect of returning from the sea to the ‘everyday world’ daunting. I don’t want to ‘arrive’ at my long-coveted destination.
We anchor overnight at peaceful Isla Ora, a day’s sail west of Puerto Obaldia, and then continue onward to Isla Ustupu in the pelting rain under lifeless grey skies. As we approach, the low, long rolling thunder gives way to the faint sound of beating drums. The island appears through the mist, with palm silhouettes framing ramshackle structures.
By the time we drop anchor, the rain has subsided, but the drumming continues, beckoning us to investigate ashore. The Captain and our friend Lucio set out as the advance-party, while I opt to remain aboard Amandla. My heart is still in Colombia, and I want to finish documenting the experience of it before exploring this new culture.
But those stories will have to wait. The boys return with exciting news. The whole island is preparing to celebrate Panamanian independence from Colombia!
This is quite curious as the Guna favored Colombia during Panama’s fight for independence, and Isla Ustupu was the birthplace of the 1925 Guna Revolution.
Lead by Iguaibilikinya Nele Kantule and supported by US adventurer Richard O, Marsh, the uprising sought to end 10 years of forced assimilation.
The Guna emerged victoriously and today are afforded the same protections and rights enjoyed by other Panamanian citizens while maintaining their unique culture and autonomy.
It is a riveting tale of the good that came out of a failed expedition and well worth a read.
We had Isla Usutpu all to ourselves, opting to cruise in the off-season and staying east of the more popular anchorages at Puerto de Carti, El Porvenir, Chichime, East Lemon Cays and the Eastern Holandes Cays.
It was a pleasure to see children shining in their school garb with some uniforms incorporating elements of traditional dress.
And it was an unusual treat to see the older students sporting celebratory costumes, including the Parade’s Queen and her court.
After the morning’s festivities in Isla Ustupu, we sailed onward until inclement weather found us seeking shelter at Isla Mono. Once idyllic, this remote anchorage was forever transformed six months before our arrival when a family of four was violently assaulted here.
Three masked pirates swam out to MV Aqua Lobo in the early hours of May 2, 2019, armed with machetes and a gun. As they boarded the boat, the owner, Alan Culverwell, went outside to investigate noises coming from the deck; he was fatally shot at close range. His wife Derryn and daughter Briar sustained wounds from a machete attack before they were able to secure themselves inside the vessel. The son, Finn, was unharmed.
A brutal attack rocked the typically peaceful San Blas. The perpetrators, Guna who’d long since traded their traditions for criminal behaviors after moving to Panama City, were quickly apprehended.
Weighing the weather conditions against the likelihood of another incident here, we opted to stop and implement other security precautions if necessary; some of which had been added to our plan after the MV Aqua Lobo tragedy.
The sole Ulu (dugout canoe) we saw early the following morning did not approach us. Lifting anchor, we sailed onward to Isla Tigre (Marmartupu).
Given delays in Florida readying Amandla for the Pacific in 2013, we’d bypassed the Guna Yala my first time through Panama, traveling instead to Shelter Bay in Fort Sherman.
But the Captain had sailed the San Blas (before it was officially renamed Guna Yala) in 2008 and again in 2009. He’d published stories and images in his book ‘AMANDLA La vita, la quasi morte e I miracoli del Capitano’ about his travels here and elsewhere.
We’d come to Isla Tigre in search of the seamstress who’d crafted the Molas he’d purchased here, which have since traveled around the world with us on Amandla.
Mola panels are used to make the blouses worn by the Guna women. The word originated from ‘bird plumage’ and Mola designs were once painted on the body.
In colonial times with the onslaught of missionaries, the designs were transferred to fabric and today they are crafted using appliqué and reverse appliqué.
The quality of a Mola is determined by the number of layers of cotton used, the complexity and content of the design, and the excellence of the stitching. Everyday Molas might be machine-made, but those for special occasions are always handcrafted.
We met some children after we’d landed the dinghy on the beach and showed them pictures from the Captain’s book of Ilsa Tigre and the Donna Kuna.
They introduced us to a village elder who in turn took us to meet the seamstress.
It was a delightful reunion. We purchased several more Molas panels and a blouse in the village.
Given the passage of time and their increasing popularity, prices for Molas have quintupled across Guna Yala since the Captain’s last visit. But ever the negotiator, and perhaps because of the relationships he’d forged here a decade ago, he paid just over a fraction of the 2009 purchase price.
With the exception of price increases, Isla Tigre hadn’t changed much since The Captain’s visit; the village was just as pristine.
We spent the remainder of our time in Guna Yala cruising Isla Verde, Esnasdup, and beautiful Cambobia.
Here we snorkeled the reefs, dined on lobster bought from local fisherman and spent time in the company the Captain’s (and now my) good friends from SY Panda who’ve been sailing these waters since 2009.
There was a sense of loss as we lifted anchor in Cambobia and set out for Fort Sherman on an overnight passage. Chasing the dream had buoyed my spirits and kept me focused for so many years, but as I neared its realization, I felt rudderless
Sleep had eluded me on passage most of the evening but in the early morning hours, it finally came and with it, a dream
…I’d been sailing in remote waters with no clear opportunities to continue my journey. I was panicked yet determined to finish my circumnavigation. Walking the docks, I met two twenty-something sailors and laughed when they asked me if ‘Lisa’ was my nickname; it was an uncommon moniker for their generation. They went on to assure me that I would find a way to finish my journey, and we started to strategize…
I awoke trying to figure out where in the world I was …and relieved to find myself comfortably nestled in Amandla’s forepeak, nearing Fort Sherman.
Image Courtesy Lucio Povoleri
I’d celebrated so many of the milestones along the way (the first offshore passage, the first ocean, the first equatorial crossing, the longest passage, the second ocean, the third ocean, the 360th degree of longitude, and of course, every one of those clean cancer scans). But when we crossed that outbound line, it felt like just another day. A few tears and a lot of smiles, but mostly, a focus on arriving and preparing for the passage homeward; ready to face the Monday morning of the coming decade.
~ For Mary, who inspired my circumnavigation and was with me in spirit for every nautical mile~
5 October 1962 – 18 January 2010
Lisa – Wow. Your writing reflects exactly who I remember you to be. You have a gift. I hope to see you on re-entry….but would also love to be there to celebrate your next bon voyage.
You’ve put a huge smile on my face this morning Carolyn. It is a gift to have a friend who remembers my voice from long ago as I rediscover it today. I look forward to seeing you when I return and at my departure. Thank you so much for your lovely comment.
This is an excitingly educational and wonderful written travel article. I have posted to my social media sites for all to read. Your journey is amazing and inspirational. I have place Guna Yala on my list of Overland destinations to visit. Thanks, 🙂
Always a pleasure to see you here Marty. Thank you so much for your very kind feedback and social shares. I am delighted you enjoyed the virtual visit to Guna Yala. I hope your travels take you here someday. It is a magical place.
I plan on overlanding to every location around the world to eventually transition to oversea travel. 🙂
I love your dream, Marty and look forward to watching you manifest it!
Fast Pam and I were just talking this week about what you were up to! Of course, this post does not help with that question… if I recall, it was back in … maybe November? … that you hit these islands and your outbound line. Anyway, it’s great to read your words again and, of course, see your magnificent photos. Why do these islands kind of remind me of the places we sailed off of Madagascar? Maybe it’s the parade, which reminded me so much of Nosy Komba that day we happened upon the boisterous horn players!
I am confident that no matter what choice you make about the next phase of life, it will be as successful as this one (and the ones before it as well). There will always be an outbound line to sail toward, even if it’s a delivered project, right?! We need to catch up for sure; I will be in touch!
Ahoy from San Cristobal; yes, we are still in Chiapas. We missed the weather-window by one day and are still waiting for the next one. Given this, we are traveling overland to Puerto Vallarta to meet my friends via San Cristobal, Tuxtla Gutiérrez, Port Chiapas, Oaxaca, Mexico City, and wherever else strikes our fancy. At this rate, we should sail into the Sea of Cortez by end-March. Luckily, you are heading to somewhere glorious in SE Asia in Feb rather than to Mexico for a sail aboard Amandla. But I am certain there is another shared trip (or more) in our future; perhaps Fast Pam will join us!
You know you were on my mind often in the San Blas, as I too felt the echoes of Madagascar there. Thank you so much for your encouraging words on the next phase(s) and the love on the post. I am very much looking forward to catching up.
I can feel so much in these words and photos. The gratitude, the dread, the weariness, the excitement. The sadness. The spirit of your dear Mary. I can feel her, too. 6.75 years. Wow. You’ve been to so many vibrant places, but for some reason, these islands seem to be particularly vivid. Maybe it’s because your strong emotions have permeated the words and images. Maybe it’s because I’m going to briefly visit Panama soon, and now I’m even more excited about the surprise stopover. Maybe it’s a little of both. It’s a place that never particularly interested me, but the more I learn about it, the more it intrigues me. Very interesting about the albinism. The Kanaks (Melanesians) in New Caledonia have a fair amount of albinos. They are considered magical.
Continued Bon Voyage to you, my dear Lisa, wherever you are.
Perceptive as always. Thank you for hearing me so completely. Guna Yala helped me to recover my writing voice and I wish that we’d spent more time exploring there. Sadly, we were in a rush to make a weather window in Mexico …which we failed to do in the end. The boat is still in Chiapas waiting on the weather. Man plans, God laughs. I remember the albinism among the Kanaks. Wonderful when people view differences as special rather than something to be loathed or feared. You’re going to visit Panama?!?! Whoop Whoop! Where are you headed? Will you visit anywhere else?
Beautiful post, Lisa. You remind me that there are so many lovely places and people on this earth for those of us brave and adventurous enough to seek them out. I hope your memories sustain you back on land, and that you will soon be on the seas again.
Deb
Your wish for me has perked up my mood immensely. I’ve been so busy creating memories that I’ve failed to think about how they will sustain me when I return home. You’ve got me looking forward to some downtime to digest all of the awesomeness of the past 7 years. The other good news is that I am pretty talented at finding adventure wherever I am. A friend once said to me that I could be locked in a room with no windows or doors and still find a way to entertain myself (no sexual innuendo intended). We have already started Leg 1 of the victory lap (sailing to Puerto Peñsco to store the boat while I am working), so I still have about 1800 nautical miles left to sail. Thank you so much for your kind and supportive feedback. Ahoy from Chiapas, Mexico
Hi Lisa – I haven’t realized that you’d re- enter this side of the world so soon.
Thanks for this powerful post which touched me immensely.
Congratulations to you and the Captain for the amazing and inspiring journey, and for having brought us along with you.
It’s a major accomplishment to overcome fears, barriers, technical problems, and the forces of nature, while circumnavigating oceans, adding nautical miles but above all much knowledge of new cultures, people, animals, landscapes, etc, that make the wealthy fabric of our planet diversity. Not many of us have the opportunity to see, to walk on these lands, and to be transformed forever after experiencing things bigger than ourselves. You are one of these people; and we are privileged to know you for you have graciously made this as much our journey as yours.
I’m proud and grateful to follow you and to have become your virtual friend.
I’m sad for not having been as brave as Lexie to sail with you, but I hope to meet you in the near future somewhere onshore.
Best of luck with your new chapter!
Hugs and love, Lucile
Your visits and eloquence always lift my spirits, Lucile. Mind-boggling to think that we’ve been sailing together virtually since November of 2014. It seems like just yesterday that we were in #Photography101 together. The feeling of gratitude for our friendship is mutual, and I look forward to the day that we meet ashore somewhere, someday, soon. Thank you as always for your love.
Wow, this is such a truly beautiful post Lisa! The colorful photos and the dress, and to arrive at such a time must have been amazing. I am in awe that you have been sailing for so long, seeing so many incredible places. Keep sailing!
We have been blessed with good travel karma on this circumnavigation Nicole. Not only have we managed to keep the boat afloat, but we often arrive in towns unplanned to find a major festival underway. Just this week we stumbled across two Mexico villages, Chamula and Chipa de Corzo, during their biggest celebrations of the year. Grateful.
I apologize for my delayed response to your lovely comment. Life has been a bit hectic as we travel overland.
Hi Lisa – So great to hear from you and read your emotional updates. Thank you for sharing your experiences from your journey as I learned more about Panama and its historical connection with Columbia through your post. I love the vibrant colours in Central America shown in your beautiful photos. You’ve achieved exceptional life experiences in this 6.75 years voyage. Congratulations, Lisa! I have no doubt you’ll make your next chapter the way you want it to be.
Thank you for your ears and your eyes, Natalie. I greatly appreciate your visit, heartfelt congratulations, kind compliments, and supportive feedback. I am encouraged by your sentiments for my next chapter. Sorry for my delayed response. Full-on travel overland in Mexico has kept me away.
This is a very moving post, Lisa. You are a true inspiration of what dreams can be achieved when we bravely follow our hearts.
I feel privileged and grateful to have had the opportunity to follow mine. Thank you for your kind and supportive feedback on the post. I apologize for my delay in responding. Full-on travel has kept me away.
Beautiful post with gorgeous photos, especially all the colorful costumes. The end of a very adventurous chapter, and the start of a new one. I have no doubt that you will find your ground and solid it will be until you are ready to return to the seas for yet more adventures. It is fitting that you close this chapter of your life at the onset of 2020, not just a new year, but a new decade. And oh, what the 2020’s will bring us, we are yet to discover.
We look forward to seeing where you drop your anchor (for a while) and hope to reconnect with you in person sometime soon.
Congratulations on an truly epic journey we have so enjoyed reading you and seeing your phenomenal photography!!!
Huge hugs and love
Peta & Ben
xoxo
Oh, I do look forward to reconnecting in the future. Perhaps we can enjoy a weekend together next time you are in the States visiting family. It may be a few years before I am back in SE Asia, but I will be back. I greatly appreciate your being there for me virtually and in-person as I made my way around the world. Thank you so much for the love and hugs. Ahoy from Chiapas, Mexico where we are currently traveling by land, and will eventually travel by sea.
Lisa,
I have followed your brave journey with such joy. The end of this chapter of your beautiful adventure was expressed with sadness but I feel your resolve to start another…perhaps different but always interesting and heartfelt.
Love to you!
Ahoy from Chiapas, Mexico Vikki. Thank you so much for journeying with me (with joy!) and for your encouraging words! I am starting to look forward to the next chapter knowing that adventure is whereever I look for it. Hugs and apologies for my delayed response; overland travel has kept me away.
Lisa – I was full on crying at the end of this post. Your writing is so wonderfully descriptive and moving – your photography equally so. While I can’t wait to see you again (and I KNOW you can’t wait to see me !!!!), I can only imagine the disquiet at the end of the dream. But it is only the last stop of this long and glorious dream – there are more ahead. And I look forward to reading about your future dream fulfillment.
You are totally right; I can’t wait to see you again :-). Thank you so much for the love on the blog and for your never-ending support over the past 19 years. Ahoy from Chiapas, Mexico where we are traveling overland – high winds have kept the boat in port for an extended period so we’ve decided to visit the interior until mid-Feb. See you in April!
Happy Monday Lisa, it’ll be great. And if it isn’t, go back to the sailboat!
Thanks for the insight into the Guna. Love how a difference – being albino – was turned into something that actually gave value to those who had it and made them, in a sense, special: guardians of the Moon!
Thanks for the cruise.
Fabrizio
The world would be a beautiful place if differences were always viewed so positively. Thank you for sailing with me and for your supportive words. We are land traveling in Mexico at the moment with plans to sail the boat north from mid-Feb to Puerto Penñasco for storage. Then it is back to the USA for the first time since 2014. Adventures await :-).
Oh, jealousy! Have a cracker.
😉
A beautiful, bittersweet tale! I’m so glad you managed to spend some time in the San Blas. Such good memories we have from there. You’ll have to go back to experience the western side as well, on your next circumnavigation. 🙂 While the eastern part was way more unique (and, lucky you for being in Ustupu during the celebrations), the eastern part is stunning as well. I really love the photo of that little palm tree island with the hut in the middle.
I had no idea about that assault in Guna Yala last year. How terrible!
And, hey, I think we met the folks from SV Panda there (or in Portobelo) as well! When I was reading about you visiting one of the master mola makers, I thought you would go and meet Lisa in Isla Tigre. She/he is also a tour guide there.
I think this was the most amazing circumnavigation and a fantastic end to that feat!
Ahoy from Salina Cruz, Mexico! We are on a road trip to Puerto Vallarta to meet friends. Amandla is safely tucked in at Port Chiapas. We’ll sail her north in mid-Feb.
I am disappointed to have bypassed the western San Blas, but we needed to transit the Canal before the year-end price increase. Next time around ;-). And I wish I’d met the infamous Mola Lisa. I knew that she sold Molas to the boats (Mike and Edie from Panda have several of her gorgeous creations in their collection) but I did not know she also gave tours of Tigre!
In addition to the tragic incident at Isla Mono, there were three armed boardings/assaults/robberies just outside Guna Yala in Bahia Nombre de Dios. Two happened while we were sailing in the area, so we opted for an overnight passage from Guna Yala to Fort Sherman. The Kuna were not involved.
Thank you for being a major part of this ‘most amazing circumnavigation’ (😊). We met you four months into our shared passage and loved every minute of our time together (not to mention that yummy birthday chocolate bar in the Gambier). Looking forward to seeing you again (soon?)
You are just the most amazing person, Lisa. So thoughtful and sweet and appreciative in your comments and in all that you do. Enjoy your road trip in Mexico. It looks like the “move” back to the US is not too imminent yet!? Either way, I agree – we will meet you and the Captain somewhere, hopefully soon!
😊😉 We are a little behind schedule but still plan to be in the US sometime in the late Spring. Currently in Oaxaca and LOVING it! Still trying to figure out where to go tomorrow.
I have enjoyed so much this journey with you, Lisa. Your photos and words have pulled me into your world and it’s been glorious. Bittersweet emotions for sure. I too had ‘wellie’ eyes towards the end. You’ve had so many great adventures and thank you for sharing them here with us. Can we expect that even though your circumnavigation is over, there will still be many more stories for you to share here?
Best wishes, Lisa, for the new adventures you face in the months ahead!
Ahoy from Oaxaca, Mexico. We’ve made a few more miles since our email exchange, enjoying many festivals and roadwork along the way. We arrived here last night after 12 hours on the road, 7 of which were spent waiting for a fuel spill to be cleared from an accident. The good news is that we spent our downtime in a lovely little town with friendly people, restaurants, and baños.
The travel has severely limited my time online, but now that I’m here, I’ll say it again. Thank you so much for being on board with me since SE Asia and for all of your love and support (and for saying that my writing could make a desk job sound exciting). I hope to have the good fortune to meet you at some point while I am in North America (and/or in some exotic locale when I return to the sea).
Perhaps we can create a few stories together.
Off now to enjoy some adventures on your pages before I head out to explore Oaxaca.
I’ve heard wonderful things about Oaxaca. I think you’re going to find many treasures 🙂
Someday, meeting in person would be wonderful!!
Oaxaca delivered big today! One museum, two great meals, and three wedding fiestas. I could move here!
Hahahaha!!! I’ve said that so many times! 🙂
🤣Me too.
What a grand sea-faring safari you have had, Lisa, and a whole new kind of voyaging ahead, ‘the Monday morning of the coming decade.’ Lots of challenges for sure: loss and renewal. But I’m thinking now of all the treasures you have gathered, not only memories, but the essences of it, in and under the skin. Future nourishment for sure. And so many makings too. All the very best to you, whatever happens next. Tx
Your comment brings me great comfort and joy, Tish, reminding me that the memories will carry me through life’s challenges and that there are many new adventures to come. Thank you for your supportive words and for being with me since we were sailing in New Zealand. Apologies for my delayed response. We are traveling overland in Mexico to meet friends in Puerto Vallarta. The boat is still in Chiapas, Mexico due to weather delays, but I love a road trip so I am not complaining. Ahoy from Oaxaca!
Safari njema! Happy travels.
This post has everything, Lisa, I don’t know where to begin with my comments! An amazing photo-essay, capturing the beautiful area and people. Your deep thoughts about your “re-entry” into the regular workaday world emanate so eloquently into a passionate summary of your life as a sailor. As you near this new way of life, you will enjoy it and handle everything with your passion and caring personality. Embrace these last legs of the journey, Lisa, and know your talents will be valued and appreciated when you start your next chapter (or next book)! 🙂
Ahoy from Tula, Mexico, Terri. Thank you for your lovely compliments on the post and your supportive feedback on my transition back to the ‘everyday’ world. I am buoyed by your confidence in my talents. Apologies for my delay in responding. We’ve been traveling overland to meet friends arriving in Puerto Vallarta at the end of the month. The boat is still in Chiapas, Mexico courtesy the infamous Tehuantepec winds. We should be back on board mid-February and sailing onward (slowly) to La Paz.
Looks like you are getting caught up online, Lisa! You are living the dream; enjoy every moment!
We have the luxury of an ‘afternoon off’ from traveling and I am spending it in the good company of friends (albeit virtually). Back on the road tomorrow #blessed
I went back to read about Mary, Lisa, and the adventure you’ve had in memory of her. I’m sure she was with you every step of the way. So many experiences you’ve lived through, good and bad. I hope that the good far outweigh the bad in the years ahead. You’ve made so many friends along the way, myself included. The warmth of your personality always shines through. God speed and good luck, in whichever direction you sail. 🙂 🙂
Ahoy from Tula, Mexico Jo! Always a pleasure to see you here. You made me teary with your lovely mention of Mary. Thank you for reading my tribute to her. Honestly, I wouldn’t have gotten off the dock without her. I often felt Mary’s presence along our way. Her favorite song was Somewhere Over The Rainbow. It seemed that whenever I was experiencing a dark moment on the journey, that song would come over the airwaves, whether on the radio, our boat’s cd mix, at a coffee house, a restaurant, etc. It happened too many times to count. I know it is a popular song, but the timing (and often remoteness of the location) made it uncanny. Apologies for my delay in responding to your comment, we are on a mad dash overland to meet friends arriving in Puerto Vallarta. The boat is still in Chiapas, Mexico waiting for more favorable weather to sail northward.
Safe travels, on or off the water, Lisa! Always good to have a guardian angel 🙂 🙂
What a beautiful, amazing post! Your words are magic and your images are stunning (a description that gets thrown around too much in my opinion, but definitely fitting in your case). I can feel you getting nearer to my corner of the world. I hope that you’ll alert me when you get close 🙂 . I look forward to reading your impressions and photos of Mexico (especially Oaxaca). It’s hard to imagine you existing in the “everyday” world but I’m sure you’ll bring your own special sparkle and panache to whatever you do.
Ahoy from Tula! As I mentioned in my email, we LOVED Oaxaca City and can not wait to return. Our mad dash to Puerto Vallarta allowed us only 36 hours, just enough for one great museum, two great meals, and three wedding Fiestas marching through the streets. I could move there! You were top of mind my entire visit. I am hoping to charm the Captain into at least two more days in Oaxaca on our way back to Chiapas 🤞. The weather has delayed our return homeward with the Tehuantepec blowing a gale most of January. With friends arriving in Puerto Vallarta at the end of the month, we had to implement our ‘Plan B’ and travel overland to meet them. But if it weren’t for that wind, I might never have seen Oaxaca City. The universe must have heard my pleadings. Anyhoo, we should be back under sail in mid-Feb day hopping our way to the Sea of Cortez. Thank you for seeing my ‘special sparkle and panache’ and for your lovely compliments on the post.
Hi Lisa
I have followed you on and off for years and i will continue to follow your posts!
Your adventures have added so much to the blogosphere and a few times I have prayed for you and the skipper – 💕 a few times –
And now onto a new life mode – with new adventures 😊
Grateful for your prayers and your visits here, Yvette, and thankful for your love and support. Apologies for my delayed response. Full-on travel has made me a poor correspondent. Ahoy from San Miguel De Allende
Be safe
Thank you, Yvette! We have sailed onward and are currently anchored off Salina Cruz with plans to proceed onward tomorrow. Great trip so far …except for the fishing net in the anchorage
Oh sorry about the net – and what a great place to explore – can’t wait to see some pics later 😉
Ahoy from Zihuatanejo. Arrived safely. Pictures forthcoming.
Woo hoo😊☀️🙏
Lisa your words and stunning photos leave me on the edge of my seat at the prospect of the next chapter. So much accomplished, so much seen. I have no doubt your journey ahead will not be a boring one.
We will be in Manzanillo at the end of the month. It sounds like our paths will be ever so close.
Ahoy from San Miguel de Allende. We will be quite close to Manzanillo as the Captain and I are traveling overland from Chiapas to meet friends in La Cruz de Huanacaxtle. While I am sad that the weather has kept Amandla in Chiapas, I am delighted that it gave us an opportunity to explore inland. We’ve visited San Cristobal, Chiapa de Corzo, Tuxtla Gutierrez, Salina Cruz, Oaxaca City, Tula and now San Miguel along our way; places that I would have missed if the winds had been favorable in January. We will sail through Manzanillo on our way up the coast sometime in late February, but sadly, you will have completed your visit by then. At least we had a catch up in Australia and I am certain we will meet up somewhere, sometime again. I can’t wait to see what you experience in Manzanillo. Thanks to both you and Dave for your love and support during my journey around the world.
What a joy it has been to follow your journey Lisa. I admit to feeling a bit sad that it is coming ot an end. I hope it will be a wonderful new chapter in your life about to begin. XO
😊🙏 I am feeling more positive every day about the adventures to come! Ahoy from La Cruz de Huanacaxtle. We’ve arrived here by car today and will have the pleasure of arriving a second time by sailboat in the latter half of February. You’ll be just a few bays away from me at Manzanillo tomorrow!!! Can’t wait to hear the stories!
Wonderful post, Lisa – as others have said, bittersweet. I have so enjoyed travelling part of this journey with you – I can’t remember where I came in, but it was certainly much more recently than 6.75 years ago. Drat, what have I missed?! I also didn’t know Mary’s story and, like Jo, went back to read about her. How lovely to have been friends since you were 6. My very best wishes to you and The Captain for the next chapter of your lives.
We’ve been sailing together virtually since Fiji, September of 2015 and it has been a delight every nautical mile. Thank you so much for your supportive comment and for clicking through to read Mary’s story. The mere mention of her name still makes me weepy after 10 years. Feeling very positive about the future. Slowly making our way to Puerto Peñasco, Mexico where we will store the boat while I return to work. Sorry for my delayed response. Full-on travel has made me a poor correspondent as of late.
Totally forgiven! I’m sure being a correspondent is a low priority as you travel.
It is always a delight to see you here. I greatly appreciate your understanding of the challenges of blogging from the sea/road.
Oh my! Facing the “Monday morning of the coming decade” suddenly sounds like the most terrible thing in the world. I didn’t know that your sailing is coming to a halt! I thought it was just another landmark among your many but that you shall continue! So happy for the reunion, beautiful celebratory photos of proud people. Whatever happens next, you will always have these 6.75 years on the sea. What now? Are you coming to Italy? Next best thing…
Ahoy from Mexico! Crossing that outbound line truly felt like a ‘forever ending’, but my spirits have perked up significantly since we’ve made our way west-northward (boat currently in Chiapas, crew in La Cruz). I’ve realized that adventure is wherever I find it and that the best is (always) yet to come. The plan is to store the boat in Puerto Penñasco, Mexico and return Stateside for work. Italy is in my future, I just don’t know when. Thank you for being on board for the journey and for your supportive feedback.
What a great post. We are so glad you got to experience San Blas and the wonderful Kuna people. This is a very special place and your words and photos covered it so well. You made us feel like we were there with you and it brought back fond memories.
Hugs!
Ahoy from La Cruz! We made it!!! Overland at least. Amandla is still in Chiapas. Thank you so much for the love on the post and for revisiting the San Blas with me virtually. Apologies for my significant delay in responding, our overland odyssey has kept me offline. We’ve visited Salina Cruz, Oaxaca, Tula, San Miguel de Allende and now La Cruz and look forward to more exploring as we return to the boat. Hugs back!
Wow, sounds like a fab Mexico road trip. We wish we’d done more inland traveling when we were cruising Mexico. La Cruz was one of our favorite places but the anchorage is so different, now that they built that huge marina. What is your ETA to get back to Amandla?
We will be back on Amandla on 13 Feb and start heading northward with the next window.
So much in this post. I can feel your sadness at the end of this epic adventure. And your trepidation for the future. And always of course your heartfelt connection with the people in the countries you visit, and your curiosity about them. How fabulous to arrive in time for a local festival. I always seek them out. I read you’re in Chiapas. Did you get to the January Festival in Chiapa de Corzo. I hope it’s not too late. The year we went it was on 14-23 Jan (approx). I wrote 3 posts about it, it was so amazing. Here’s one: .
Maybe you’ll catch a bit of it.
Thanks for writing about Guna Yala and the Guna. I confess ignorance that I’d not heard of them.
Looking forward to continuing stories of Mexico (you seem to be, or were, in a part of the country we explored well). And also looking forward to stories of your new adventure on land.
Wishing you every happiness and success!
Alison
Ahoy from Puerto Vallarta. We finally made it here (overland) to meet up with 12 friends from Chicago. As you know from our email correspondence, we passed through Chiapa de Corzo during the Fiesta and LOVED it. Your magical post seriously deepened the experience for me as your visit was far longer than ours #wanttogoagain. Since then, we’ve visited Salina Cruz, Oaxaca, Tula, San Miguel de Allende and now, Puerto Vallarta. On our return to the boat, we hope to call in at Morelia, Teotihuacan, and Mexico City.
Thank you for your insights, your supportive words, and the inspiration you provide me in your visual storytelling.
Thank you for the same!
How wonderful! Congratulations!
Thank you so much, Coral! Ahoy from Puerto Vallarta, Mexico!
Wow! Lisa you had such a wonderful opportunity to fulfill your dreams!Thank you for sharing it with us! I often think of you and the captain and how wonderful it was to meet you here in South Africa! The Molas panels are absolutely gorgeous! Love the patterns and the vibrant colours!
I am grateful to have sailed the world and to have met so many wonderful people along the way. Thank you for making me feel welcome when we visited South Africa. I can’t wait to visit you in Saldhana for a Braai next time around. I wish I’d bought enough Molas to make a quilt, but know I am blessed to have any at all. Ahoy from Puerto Vallarta, Mexico. Sorry for my delay in responding. We were on a mad-dash to meet friends visiting here.
Enjoy your time there and I will always cherish our time together
Ahh, Lisa, that will be nice if you can come to visit one day. I will always cherish the time we spend together in Cape Town enjoy visiting with your friends
Isn’t serendipity great? Your story of running into a cultural celebration at Isla Ora seems like a cherry on top of your trip (to mix metaphores). And again, with finding the same seamstress all those years later at Isla Tigre. Ah, the things you’ve seen and photographed – I can see how the end of this chapter could be bittersweet.
But new beginnings often mean new adventures…
Serendipity is indeed the best tour guide, Dave. She seems to have been at the helm of our voyage from the very start, and I trust that she will guide us for many adventures to come. Thank you so much for your visit and your positivity. Ahoy from Tlaquepaque, Mexico. Apologies for my delayed response. Full-on travel and a recent visit from 12 Chicagoland friends have kept me away.
Such a wonderful post, Lisa. Your photos are really wonderful, especially the rainbow one. What a journey you’ve had and such colourful adventures. I guess it will take you some time to find your land legs again, but wherever you are, I’m sure life will always be exciting and I know that in your mind, you’ll be planning that next odyssey. I look forward to future post from you. Hugs to you and the Captain. xx
Rainbows make everything more beautiful. Thank you for all the love along my way and for your encouraging words. I’ve become increasingly positive about my future since the wave of sadness knocked me off balance as we neared that outbound line. We are now in Mexico traveling overland with plans to sail the boat to the US border for storage later this Spring. Just enjoyed the company of 12 good friends who came to greet us in Puerto Vallarta and I am looking forward to spending more time in their company when I return home.
So true about the rainbows, Lisa. How wonderful it must have been to be greeted by those twelve good friends. You must have felt like celebrities. 👯♀️Enjoy your Mexican adventure. 😘🤗
We felt very loved! It was a grand reunion #blessed. Have made our way to Guanajuato now and are enjoying the sites.
Sounds great. 😘
We have followed your wonderful journey through your blog and lived vicariously through you for so long. You are such an inspiration my friend. It is so bittersweet: we are all looking forward to seeing you again but I think our lives will be just a little less colorful when you step off that boat. You will have to find some new adventures to broaden our horizons. Big hugs buddy!
Thank you so much for your big-hearted comment and for being with me since the very beginning of this grand adventure. I don’t think I would have ever gotten off the docks without the support of friends like you and Olivia. Looking forward to seeing you both when I return home. Ahoy from Guanajuato, Mexico. Lovely to catch up with you via WhatsApp when we were in Puerto Vallarta!
Lisa, I greatly appreciate you sharing your amazing adventures with all of us. You describe your emotional roller coaster of ending your journey of 6.75 years, yet beginning the ‘everyday world.’ When I read your posts, I smell, see, hear and feel the drums, the mist, the vibrant colours and the humanity of the cultures. Thank you for explaining the albinism. It was initially a puzzle.
All of your photos, Lisa, are exceptional! I am reluctant to single any out. The sailboat and the rainbow is a goosebump moment.
Huge hugs on the clean cancer scans. Your adventures are not over, Lisa. A new chapter in your life is just beginning. Thank you for sharing your adventures and most of all, thank you for sharing you.
I am delighted that my storytelling piqued your senses, Erica, and am grateful for all of your love and encouragement. I’ve become increasingly optimistic about my next chapter as we’ve sailed onward from Panama. We are currently traveling overland in Guanajuato, Mexico, returning to the boat in Chiapas, after a grand time with friends in Puerto Vallarta.
Hello Lisa! How serendipitous that you landed to a village parade. It reminded me of the Fourth of July parade in my little neighborhood. Every single child in town and most of the adults are in the parade, so there is no one to actually watch the parade. I am in love with those gorgeous costumes and the beautiful colors in those dresses. Your photo of the girls in the colorful dresses is just happiness in a photo! But my favorite picture is the one of you arriving at Ft. Sherman. Despite your mixed feelings about being at the end of your journey you look beautiful! Let me know when you are in a place and ready to talk again. I can’t wait to see what is next for you. I don’t think you’ll ever be really rudderless. You have too many options.
Making me blush, Michele. Thank you for all of your love and support here and along so many nautical miles of the journey. Happy to report that I’m optimistic about the next adventure as we sail homeward. Only 1800 nautical miles left to go before we store the boat in Puerto Peñasco and return to the States. I look forward to speaking with you again as soon as we stop moving. We’re a week away from completing a month-long overland loop to spend time with friends in Puerto Vallarta. We’d planned to sail there by mid-January, but the wind had other ideas, so we turned our disappointment into a 4500 km road trip, and we’re delighted by the experience. In Guanajuato now, heading back to the boat in Port Chiapas.
PS. Parades, where everyone participates, are the best kind. I would love to celebrate (and photograph) The Fourth of July parade in your neighborhood someday.
Hi Terri I have been telling her about that book too!
You write of lands and seas and people I have only imagined in my dreams. Yet, with your words and photos, you bring it all alive to this landlubber. You write and bring us all together globally, as different as we may seem to be. We all smile, we parade, we laugh and cry and wonder about the stars above. Oh dear, you’ve made me lyrical, reading this post. Thanks so much for sharing so much of journey. I wish you joyful discoveries in this new decade.
From your comment here to the wonderful storytelling on your pages, I am captivated by your eloquence. While I enjoy the uniqueness of each place I visit, I am far more drawn to the similarities; the emotions, the wonder, and the love. Thank you so much for your affinity and your good wishes for the future. Apologies for my delayed response. An overland odyssey across Mexico has made me a poor correspondent. Ahoy from Salina Cruz.
Ahoy to you! I’m sending you Aloha greetings from the land of love. Happy Valentine’s Day!
Love received and welcomed! Sounds like Valentines is an everyday thing with your guy 😉
It’s a great way to live! 🥰
Indeed 💘
How enriched your land and sea voyages have made you, and we who read your words, see what you have seen, are in turn enriched by this greater understanding of our amazing planet. I have loved your generous sharing of so many explorations. Will you continue to write a blog?
Also, I only yesterday discovered your review of my book The Gift of Memoir on Amazon. Many thanks for the detailed comments – I didn’t know you had a copy. I think a memoir based on your insights and visuals would be valuable both for you to distill and others to ‘marinate’ in.
My hands-on world travelling now has a smaller orbit as a tutor in ESL (English as a Second Language) classes, but I relish the opportunity to open those doors.
All good things to you, fellow ocean spirit, on the road ahead.
xoxox
I thank you so much for helping me rediscover and hone my voice along my journey. I’ve had your wonderful ‘The Gift Of Memoir’ onboard since September 8, 2016, purchasing it from Amazon while sailing in Indonesia. But as you know from my comment, it took me a bit of time before I finally cracked the book open. Once I did so, I’ve returned to it often.
In my youth, I wrote incessantly, but life got in the way in my late 20s and I stopped doing so. Now that I have rediscovered the joy of the art form, I plan to continue to do so no matter where life’s adventures take me.
I apologize for my delayed response. We’ve been an overland odyssey in Mexico. Headed back to the boat tomorrow with plans to sail her to Puerto Peñasco for storage. Hugs from Salina Cruz.
What a journey, and I don’t just mean this final chapter. If only I had a virtual passport and could stamp it with the places you’ve taken me, that I doubt I will ever see. You must have mixed feelings as you return to the starting point – I won’t say home, because Amandla is your home.
Did the Captain give a copy of his book to the seamstress?
PS Since upgrading my Mac OS, I have trouble visiting your site. I get timed out regularly and it doesn’t recognise me as a WordPress member, which is why I’ve signed in differently as a non WordPress commenter.
I love the idea of a ‘virtual passport’. We’ve been traveling together virtually since Fiji in 2015. I have very much enjoyed your company here and greatly appreciate my travel experiences on your pages. Along the way, you’ve taken me to places I’ve longed to visit in person and offered me different experiences of the places I’ve had the pleasure to tread. My pending return to the every-day world is definitely filled with mixed emotions, but they are trending toward the positive now and I am very excited to see what the future holds. Ahoy from Mexico where we’ve just spent the past 27 days on a mad-overland loop to Puerto Vallarta. Returning to the boat tomorrow with plans to sail her northward to Puerto Peñasco for storage.
PS. We did not leave a copy of the book with the seamstress as it is in Italian. However, looking back, I wish we had as she certainly speaks the language of pictures.
You’ll have to return on the next circumnavigation and give her a copy then.
😂Another reason to go around again!
Oh Lisa, what a beautiful heartfelt post. I can’t even begin to imagine the emotions you are going through. I’ve had trouble adjusting after a few months of travel…but 6.75 years! I love reading your wonderful posts and feel like I’m right along the journey with you. The things you have seen, done, felt are truly remarkable. Though it’s the end of a long chapter, I have no doubt that there are many adventures ahead for you.
Your photos are stunning. The drab weather seems to highlight the colourful traditional clothing all the more, and I love the happy expressions, grace (and skirts hiked up) in the rainy conditions. The story of the captain and his reunion with the seamstress is lovely.
Are you heading to Mexico now? I know you were looking forward to the Sea of Cortez.
Congratulations on your epic journey! All the very best to you guys wherever your paths may lead.
Ahoy from Salina Cruz, Mexico. Our destination is still the Sea of Cortez, but the weather finds our boat in Chiapas with us returning to her after a 27-day round trip excursion to Puerto Vallarta. We’d originally planned to sail there to meet friends, but the raging Tehuantepec winds had other ideas, so we finally sucked it up and took a road trip. As always seems to be the case, the ‘inconvenience’ was a blessing, and we had a marvelous 10-state excursion. Sadly, the full-on travel made me a horrible correspondent and I apologize for my delayed response to your welcome comment. It has been a pleasure getting to know you on this global adventure and sharing many destinations, albeit at different times. I can’t wait to experience all the awesome that you found in The Sea of Cortez and hope to have the good fortune to share a destination in person with you someday.
Lisa, no need to apologize! Your Plan B sounds amazing. I love that you can just switch gears and do a 27 day excursion in Chiapas. San Cristobal de las Casas and Palenque, among other places, are on our short list for an April trip. I may have to pick your brain if we decide to go.
I really hope we find ourselves in the same place someday!
Ahoy from Marina Chiapas. We are back on board after a 10 STATE, 27-day, round trip excursion to Puerto Vallarta. The state of Chiapas was definitely a big-time highlight (San Cristobal, Chamula, Chiapa de Corzo, and Tuxtla Gutierrez rocked!) but we were unable to make it to Palenque. Long story short, the direct route from San Cristobal to Palenque was deemed so unsafe and we didn’t have the time to visit using the indirect route that the buses use. We had to settle for ruins at Tula, Teotihuacan, Yalpa, and Mitla, but if you can get to Palenque, do it as it is supposed to be the best. Needless to say, we’ve fallen in love with Mexico inland, and are hopeful to love the 1800 nautical miles of coastline we are about to sail along. Thank you so much for your understanding of the challenges of blogging delays (comments, visits, and posts) while on the road. And thank you for commenting twice as you were uncertain that your first comment was received (it was).
All good again. It seems I wasn’t the only one who had problem with the Mac update to their browser. An update has solved the issue.
Appreciate your making a second attempt to leave your comment. I am glad that MAC has resolved the commenting glitch with an update. Ahoy from Salina Cruz, Mexico!
A thoughtful post, Lisa… Sunday evening blues, right?
Remember another week starts on Monday…
You must be in Puerto Vallarta by now. All good?
Ahoy from Marina Chiapas. Meeting you and Amira was a highlight of our Magical Mexico Tour! Thank you so much for making us feel at home and treating us to such wonderful goodies. Looking forward to seeing you both again, whether in Mexico City, the USA or somewhere on the high-seas.
Hi Lisa. It was lovely to meet you and Fabio. I hope you found the boat in good shape… When is your next sailing window?
We’ll meet again. 🙂
Fingers crossed that we’ll be leaving tomorrow. Whether we will day hop along the coast, take a straight shot up to Zihuatanejo / Barra de Navidad, or do a mix of both is yet to be determined.
Fair winds tomorrow. Bons vents mon amie… 🙂
All the best to the Captain…
Ahoy from Salina Cruz …now visiting here by sea
So you have sailed. Not sure whether the dire winds Fabio showed me are behind you or not… I see you’re not far from Puerto Escondido. If you have time, you can stop there. It is a lovely little place. Fair winds.
Ahoy from Zihuatanejo. We made it safely across the Tehuantepec but bypassed Puerto Escondido to make time with some favorable weather. We are now waiting for the next window and hopefully leaving here on Wednesday.
Winds seem to be the limit to a sailor’s freedom. 😊 some other time. How did you find Zihutanejo? Haven’t been there in ages. Fair winds
Have yet to tour the place. Sadly, the Captain slipped down the companionway ladder on the morning after we arrived here and bruised (possibly fractured or broke) a rib. Hoping to get to shore tomorrow, but he may need another day or two to get himself in a the dinghy. Yet another delay on our crazy trip up this coast.
Darn… I hear rib “injuries” hurt like hell because of the so many nerves between each rib. So he hasn’t seen a doctor yet or taken an X-ray? Zihuatanejo is/was a bit of a hole in the map. Maybe you can get better medical attention in Ixtapa, a much more touristy resort where they might have better clinics? If I remember it’s about 1/2 hour away in a car/taxi?
Luckily, we seem to have found a good doctor in Zihua (he serves the large ex-pat and sailing communities here). He’s prescribed pain meds (which I procured this afternoon for the Captain along with groceries) and an X-Ray. The next challenge will be to get Fabio off the boat and onto the shore for the X-ray. We are at anchor and the seas are somewhat rolling here. It is a 5-minute bumpy ride to shore and disembarking in the surge will make the trip even more interesting. The slightest movements are excruciating for him. We may need to leave him onshore at a hotel until he heals (once we get him there). Watch this space.
I will watch this space. Leaving him onshore is an excellent idea. At least for a few days until you get your bearings. Glad you found a good Doc. And I still hope the X-Rays will come out good. Like I said, rib injuries even the slightest can hurt like Hell. Best wishes to the both of you.
My best wishes to Fabio. If it is a broken rib, hopefully not, he does need prompt medical attention. And even if it’s not, a bandage or something… Darn. Keep me posted.
Another beautiful and thoughtful post. I appreciate you speaking honestly about the transition you will be going through as you finish this voyage.
Ahoy from Marina Chiapas, Mexico, Amy. Thank you so much for lending me your ear! Expect more ‘transformation’ stories as I return to the US in April. We’ve just finished an overland tour of Mexico and are now preparing to sail the boat north to Puerto Peñasco for storage. I apologize for my delay in responding. Full-on travel kept me away.
Wow, that does sound busy, I guess you will have plenty to write about this Spring! I’ll look forward to that.
I have 2000 pics to sift through. Hopefully, there will be 20 or so gems among them 🙂
What a great way to relive your journey 🙂
This time, it is necessary to stop the clock, because on this trip it is like entering another dimension. Your chronicle leaves us a spectacular visit to those islands. Each of the photos, are spectacular that do nothing but transport us to a fantastic dream. Good for you and thanks for allowing you to accompany this adventure that has been wonderful.
I apologize for having let time stop for a little too long between your poetic comment and my response. We’ve made way to Mexico and spent the last 27 days exploring overland. Back onboard the sailboat now and heading north with the next good weather window (Sunday?). Thank you so much for bringing your eloquence to my journey. Your visits always uplift my heart.
Sometimes that happens and to pretty women, more often. Your sailboat will always have the right direction because your effort to explore will lead you to fruition. Your heart is always in communion with adventure and your eyes give us the most beautiful landscapes through your photos. I will follow your steps because I love the chronicles of your trips. Good weekend wherever you are.
😊🥰Making me blush. Currently, in Chiapas, Mexico hoping that we have favorable winds to carry us northward tomorrow ⛵️
Then, good crossing. a big hug
Wow Lisa, so many things to say about this post – I too was in tears at the end. This is so beautifully written and documented with some incredible images. I absolutely adore those little girls in the green – so full of strength and confidence. I also saw the exchange with Lex K above – I would love to see you both together! It has been incredible following your journey around the world. I know that whatever comes your way next, will be as equally amazing – one day and one step at a time right?
Ahoy from Marina Chiapas. We are back on board after a whirlwind road trip to Puerto Vallarta. It was MAGNIFICENT. Sadly, we did not make it as far as Tulum so I am delighted to have traveled there with you virtually. However, I am happy to report that we saw much more of Chiapas than originally planned. You and Lexie are/were both so close yet so far. Looking forward to when we are all in the same place #someday. Thank you so much for your lovely feedback on the story and your support for my next adventure! Hugs!
Wonderful post Lisa! Good luck with the next stage of the adventure!
Thank you for your kind feedback and good-wishes. We are currently in Chiapas, Mexico waiting for a window to sail northward. I’ve come to realize that adventure will find me wherever I may wander.
Coming to an end? Well I’m disappointed. Even more sorry I arrived some 6 years last. Yes I know I can go back to the beginning and read through until now. It won’t be the same. ;0(
Still, what an adventure. I can’t imagine that you returning home and just settle in.
I bet you come up with a new adventure soon.
Thanks for the tour. Blessings on your return trip and reentering life on dry land.
I do hope this is not the end of your blog.
Phyllis
Ahoy from Chiapas, Mexico. We are sailing the boat north to Puerto Peñasco for storage and will return to the US by mid-April. While this latest life chapter is concluding, there are many more adventures (and blog posts) to come. Thank you for your good wishes to carry us safely on our way. Apologies for the delayed response. We were on a 4500 km road trip through Southern Mexico. New blog post soon!
I will wait with bated breath. ;0)
This is such a lovely story! I love all of the colorful outfits and the history that you provided as well. Thank you for all of the information.
Lovely to meet you in the blogosphere, Nina! Thank you so much for your visit and kind feedback on the post. Delighted that you enjoyed it.
It seems my first attempted reply did not go through. Sorry if this turns out to be a duplicate. First of all, no need to apologize. I think it’s awesome when you can just enjoy the travel experience without pressure of blogging/social media. Great that you were able to switch gears and make the best of a poor weather situation. Chiapas, and particularly San Cristobal de las Casas and Palenque region is on our short list of travel options for spring. I may have to pick your brain.
I share your hope that we will one day find ourselves in the same spot!
PS – if you have the option to delay your visit until next January to attend the Fiesta Grande de Chiapa de Corzo celebration (there is something similar in Chamula at the same time) do it. Like Alison and Don, we found out about it word of mouth and had a delightful experience.
Thanks so much for this tip!
Con Gusto!
Oh my, what an adventure you have been on, I am green with envy!
I love the way you showcase their handcrafted itemns, they are really pretty 🙂
😊I am a very lucky gal. Delighted that you enjoyed the Guna’s handicraft. Given limited room aboard our boat, we buy very few things on our travels, but the Molas panels were so eye-catching that we purchased several.
Lisa this is so beautifully written, the emotion floods out from your words. I know you followed our travels so you probably noticed that in between Colombia and Panama we didn’t manage to visit these legendary islands. It’s a future trip we’ve promised ourselves, but not having a Captain (or even a boat) on hand, I’m not sure our trip could touch yours for authenticity. It must have been truly touching for Captain to return after all those years and to have met the same seamstress that made those panels too? Well that’s serendipity!
You’ve made my morning with your kind feedback on the post. I do remember that you bypassed the San Blas on your last trip to this part of the world, but I also recall that you managed to find your way onto a yacht or two when you were here.
It is a small ocean and it holds many surprises. When you start planning travel to these parts again, I would be happy to help you investigate ‘rides’ in the San Blas. We are aware of a couple of (not exactly legal) charter companies and have a host of sailing friends that frequent different ports around the globe. Sadly, our best mates who have been sailing here for over 10 years (SY Panda) just completed their last season and are putting their boat on the market.
I love your article. What a great voyage! It’s always interesting to learn about local culture. To me, it was a new thing about mola panels, used to make the blouses worn by the Guna women. Interesting transfer from body to fabric! Thanks for sharing!
Thank you so much for your love, Anita and for joining me virtually for a voyage through the San Blas! Culture is my favorite aspect of travel and it is always a treat to meet peoples whose long-held traditions are still generally intact.
Wow Lisa, I can’t believe I have only just been introduced to your adventure…and so near the end! I honestly knew nothing about this part of the world (only having mental images of pretty islands, a quick read through of a rough guide and a true crime podcast to go by). It must have been such a pleasure to carve your own path through that blue water and meet such amazing people. It’s not everyone who gets an introduction to the chief! I have been considering a trip to Panama in the next year or so and I feel like I know it so much more now.
I’m sorry that your journey is almost at an end, and it comes with such a heavy heart but I am sure you will keep adventuring in some way.
Rosie x
Crossing that outbound line was bittersweet, but I am feeling much more upbeat these days. We’ve already started our victory lap (currently sailing the boat to Puerto Peñasco in Mexico for storage while I return to work to replenish the cruising kitty) and I’ve come to realize that adventure awaits everywhere. The San Blas Islands are very special. I do hope you find your way there. Lovely to meet you in the blogosphere and I am looking forward to following more of your escapades. Thank you so much for such a lovely comment.
Hats off to you for sticking to this journey and this plan for so many years. 6 years is quite a while to be away from home. But then again, I guess home is always more than just one place. Congratulations on all your accomplishments these past 6 years.
Thank you so much for your congratulatory note. The best part of traveling under sail is that wherever I go, I am home. Returning to a land-based life in my native country will have its challenges, but I look at it as just another leg in this adventure called life.
What a beautifully written piece. I have dreams about sailing around the Caribbean. You seem to appreciate the same things I like. I enjoyed learning a pout the Molas and the history!!
Thank you for your very kind feedback on the writing, Laureen. I much appreciate it. We definitely share the same love of culture in our travels. That is why I enjoy reading your blog. I hope you find yourself on a sailing boat in the Caribbean someday. My circumnavigation started with a dream formed during a Captained Sailboat Charter.
Wow, what an amazing experience. It’s on our bucket list to one day sail the world. Currently we are mainly going overland to visit places but sailing is still the dream. And what a nice experience to sail through the San Blas, how beautiful is this place.
We spend 6-8 months a year on the boat and the remainder traveling inland. The best thing about traveling the world under sail is that wherever you go, you are home. Happy to answer any questions that you might have when you pursue your sailing dream. Thank you so much for your visit.
Every time I read you, I admire your great ability to navigate your goals of knowing the deepest of our planet. No one like you to give a complete view of what your eyes can see (as beautiful as the blue of your seas). When I want to travel through these dream places, I just have to close my eyes after reviewing your comments and your photos. You have an audience that loves you and you are going to leave a vacuum difficult to fill when you decide to take a break. This trip was more incredible and the photographs tell us that you achieved the perfect expedition. The memory of the person who inspired you is a great personal recognition. A hug as big as the vastness of your seas.
You melt my heart with your eloquence both here and on your pages. Wherever life takes me, it will be an adventure and an opportunity to weave another yarn. Thank you for your love. Ahoy from Zihuatanejo
It must be like that. Keep enjoying Mexico and please listen to the song “Malagueña”. Goes for you
🎶🥰 You are such a charmer.
Absolutely beautiful post. And you know one journey ends and the next begins. I think you should spend a wee bit of time with those 2 sailors from your dream. I bet they have some good thoughts for you. 😁
I am looking forward to the adventures that lie ahead, wherever the winds take me next. My dream to circumnavigate has been my guiding light for so many years. Now that I’ve fully manifested that reality, tapping into the wisdom of those two sailors is just what I need to navigate my way to the next destination.
I have heard so many great things about the San Blas. We passed through too quickly on our way through the canal, but maybe someday we will go back. It’s good to read your feeling and emotions on finishing a circumnavigation….we are counting down the days.
I am very excited to see your goal within sight. Do you envision a victory lap in your future? It would be wonderful to see you spend some time exploring the San Blas.
Before I set sail, I imagined arriving at my outbound line to crowds cheering, bands playing, and cameras rolling. But when I got there, I was so happy to cross it anonymously, alone with my thoughts. In hindsight, the fact that it was just ‘another day’ made it a glorious one.
I ended up going to Bocas del Toro last time I was in Panama. I loved it there! Next time I’ll have to check out San Blas region too! It looks incredible!
I am disappointed to have missed Bocas del Toro as I’ve heard fantastic things about the place. You are so lucky to have visited there. I hope you find your way to the San Blas someday. It is magical
Another adventure! I love it when you say -“… longing to sail in the opposite direction and do not want to arrive….” I have not been to this part of the world. It is very interesting to read about your adventures based on your passion for sailing! Hats off to you! 🙂
As we head further north along the Pacific Coast of Mexico toward home, I fantasize about running away to French Polynesia (once again). But the need to return home for a few years overrides that sense of vagabonding, because I want to see family and friends, replenish the cruising kitty, and complete the circle fully (e.g., ‘I left, I saw, I returned, I loved, I conquered, and then I left for more.’)
I love your usage of words, reading your stories is like reading a song 🙂 I greatly appreciate you sharing your amazing adventures!
Your poetic compliment fills my heart, Ann. Thank you so much for your love!
I have enjoyed my virtual travels with you under the sails–it’s always an enlightening experience and always so inspiring. I look foward to you taking me onto the next adventure wherever and whatever they maybe.
Lovely to see you here, Cristina. It seems like forever ago that we were sailing in the San Blas. We are currently adventuring indoors in self-isolation aboard Amandla in La Paz, Mexico. Thank goodness for virtual connections around the globe to keep our spirits afloat.
Love the vibrant colours of South America – beautiful photos Lisa!
Would have loved to sail through the San Blas islands but you probably know the story. I was however gifted a couple of Molas from the skipper on his return to Australia, which was a lovely and kind gesture.
The island tragedy reminds me of 2008 in Venezuela at an anchorage in Caraballeda that
we left and 2 weeks later a French catamaran was boarded by pirates. The skipper was shot and later died from gunshot wounds – dangerous part of the world.
While you missed the San Blas, I am happy that you sailed onward (so to speak) to a life that you love. The gifting of the Molas was a very lovely and kind gesture. And the San Blas will be there waiting for you to visit someday when the doors open again. Everything in its time. Fabio was sailing Amandla in Venezuela when pirates boarded the French catamaran in Caraballeda. He (along with a shed load of other boats) left Venezuela after that and never returned. Heartbreaking on so many levels, and personally for me as we bypassed Los Roques this time around given continued deterioration in the country. Fabio says it is the most beautiful place he has ever sailed.
Hope so, one day. 😉
Wow, we must of just missed Fabio then in 2008, what a shame. We hardly met anyone in Venezuela, but loads of yachties in Bonaire and Curaçao.
Los Roques is gorgeous and I have a post including the island but the photos aren’t that great as I didn’t have a good camera on Reality.
Jealous!
I recognise this bittersweet feeling of accomplishment plus a desire for it not to end, tho my own adventures have lasted mere minutes on your one-week timescale. I only got to ‘know’ you towards the end of your epic, I may start at the beginning and see how you got to this point. Can no longer claim I don’t have the time!
I never expected we’d still be out here. Our pre-pandemic plans would put us Stateside by now (with The Captain traveling onward to Italy for a visit). Of one thing I am sure; both you and I both have many grand adventures to look forward to in our futures. I am enjoying my downtime with a mix of writing, entering photo contests (a girl can hope), catching up virtually with friends and family, repairing the boat, and visualizing what I want my life to look like post-pandemic. We may throw-off the dock lines in 10 days to go sail in the Sea of Cortez but have not yet fully committed. Thank you as always for your visit. Always a treat to see you here.
Love everything about your comment, Lisa. Your comments are still coming through my inbox and I felt compelled to respond. Your photos are beyond worthy of winning photo contests. I am glad you are entering so more people can enjoy them. I LOVE your phrase “visualizing what I want my life to look like post-pandemic.” I was meant to come across this today. I needed to hear this. And, Karen/Elizabeth, well worth starting at the beginning of Lisa’s journey. Have a great Easter weekend, everyone! Take care and stay well.💕
Oh my, I hope you signed up for the comment responses, and my blog isn’t sending them to you in error. Whatever the reason, it is lovely to be on the receiving end of your love and positivity once again. And I am delighted to have inspired you to start visualizing your own post-pandemic life. It is going to be awesome. Happy Easter weekend back at you 💞
“We may throw-off the dock lines in 10 days to go sail in the Sea of Cortez” – sounds marvellous, I wish I could join you!
I wish you could too. We are rethinking throwing off those dock lines as in-country ports and parks are beginning to close.
uh oh. Not a good situation if you couldn’t return to land!
What we’ve decided is to take an overnight trip to Puerto Escondido where we can pick up a mooring. It is a good hurricane hole, away from the general population, with access to marina services. It seems like a good place to isolate.
Best of luck!
Lisa, it is always a pleasure to read your adventures. Beautiful cultures! Your journey is amazing and inspirational! I hope to travel to South America at some point, over land when the world opens up again.
Travel memories are good for the soul during this challenging time. I look forward to seeing South America through your lens when the doors open again. Thank you for your visit. Always a treat to see you here!
You took me back to the early 90’s when I worked as an entertainer on a cruise ship. I LOVED it when we stopped in the San Blas. Cartagena first, then San Blas. I have a mola somewhere. One of my fellow entertainers saved magazines for the seamstresses for their inspirations. I saw a mola of…I think it was something like Apollo landing on the moon..it was cool and unexpected and why did I not buy THAT. God, I loved being at sea.
[…] (note: from Amandla Enjoy. Here is my (b)log entry from there if you need any ideas of where to visit http://lisadorenfest.com/2020/01/18/sunday-evening-a-sail-through-the-san-blas/) […]
Lisa what a gorgeous place. We heard great things about San Blas during a recent trip to Panama from travelers who headed down that way. I love the colors of your images. Awesome eye you have.
Ryan