I’d been mentally preparing for a significant life transformation since we’d neared our outbound line in Panama. But I had never considered that the world would experience such a seismic shift as we made our way homeward.
As a result of COVID-19, our plans to return to the US (me) and Italy (The Captain) are on hold. We are currently sheltering-in-place aboard Amandla in La Paz, Mexico. Getting here has been an odyssey filled with many with good memories to buoy our spirits during this unprecedented period spent in self-isolation.
It is surreal to think that in the time we’ve sailed from Pacific Panama to Baja California Sur, the coronavirus has circumnavigated the globe, leading us all into uncharted waters.
What follows feels like ancient history, but it began only a few months ago …
Passage From Panama to Mexico
It seemed feasible at the time. Meander our way up the Pacific Coast to La Cruz de Huanacaxtle, Mexico, by January 30th to disembark our beloved crew, Lucio, and meet-up with 12 friends arriving from the States for a visit.
Things started off well enough. Our friends Ed and Abby agreed at the 11th hour to fly-in from Brooklyn to handle our lines on Amandla’s second Panama Canal crossing. And our good fortune continued when the legendary solo sailor, Holly Martin, signed-on as well.
But delays in the form of repairs, weather, and fishing nets started on the Pacific side of Panama and continued into Mexico.
Luckily, we sailed without the engine about 40% of the time, exceeding our expectations. The sea was breathing, pulsating, alive. Bobbing turtles, fishing pelicans, surfacing whales, jumping dolphins, and back-flipping rays provided entertainment that kept our spirits up the entire way.
The night sky held the moon throughout all of her phases with both the Southern Cross and the North Star visible as she faded. A star falls, and a wish is made as we continue northward.
Boats traveling along this section of the Pacific Coast face two notoriously perilous weather zones: The Papagayos ranging from Central Costa Rica to the end of Nicaragua and The Tehuantepeckers between Chiapas and Oaxaca, Mexico. We’d planned to cross both by December 31st.
Sadly, we only managed The Papagayos by the beginning of the New Year and missed a weather window to continue across the Tehuantepec by one day. When it was clear that another window would not open in time to sail to La Cruz de Huanacaxtle, we decided to turn our disappointment into a 4800-kilometer road trip to meet my friends.
On The Road North
The ten-state, month-long overland voyage was a string of serendipitous moments.
A chance encounter in San Cristóbal de las Casas leads us to the indigenous town of Chamula. Here we were treated to cultural celebrations during the Festival of San Sebastian and delighted in the most beautiful church interior that I have ever seen.
The nave of Iglesia de San Juan Chamula is adorned with flowers and tree branches, and the floor is covered with grass to provide comfort for worshippers who sit upon her as they pray. Devotees light colorful waxed candles and line the walls with sparkling votives. Originally built as a Catholic church, it now serves a diverse group of worshippers, both Christian and animists. Photographs of the interior are prohibited.
We enjoyed Chamula so much that we returned for a second day.
Jorge, a local, invited us to his San Sebastian celebration, offering The Captain and Lucio a shot of very strong Mezcal as a welcome gift.
He suggested that we visit Sumidero Canyon, National Park. It was on our way to our next stop Tuxtla Gutierez, so we did.
Not only were we treated to a trip along the vast reservoir that fills the canyon. Our tour boat operator told us that we must attend The Fiesta Grande de Enero in Chiapa de Corzo.
The weeks-long festival honors the local patron saints Cristo Negro de Esquipulas, San Antonio Abad, and San Sebastián.
It is a feast for all the senses with food, music, dancing, and handicrafts, but our schedule only permitted a single morning to watch the dance of the Parachicos.
Legend has it that one day, a woman named Señora Maria de Angulo came to the village with her servants to find a cure for her sick son.
An indigenous healer told her to bathe him in the Cumbujuyú River for nine days, and the child recovered.
Years later, when an epidemic struck the area, the Señora repaid the village with gifts of food and money distributed by her servants ‘for the child’ or ‘para el chico.’
I later learned that my friends Alison and Don had enjoyed multiple days of this festival in 2017. Their posts are well worth a read.
We returned to Chiapas to disembark our crew, Lucio, so that he could fly home to Italy. The Captain and I continued onward the next morning.
Hotel Misión San Jose
Our next stop was at Salina Cruz at the top of the Tehuantepec. Not a very interesting town, but a perfect stopover between Chiapas to Oaxaca. The best (price and quality) accommodation we found in Mexico was at the Hotel Misión San José. Four-star service and accomodation at a two-star price.
The celebrations continued when we arrived in Oaxaca City. I’d dreamed of journeying here for many years, following in the footsteps of Janis Heppell. For some reason, it was The Dia de Los Muertos (Day of the Dead) celebrations, artistic tombs, and colorful doors that remained top of mind for me from her beautiful writings.
Apparently, I’d missed the wedding posts.
So we were curious when we saw flag-covered balloons and paper mâché figures being assembled in front of The Church of Santo Domingo de Guzmán.
And even more so when a small marching band and a cast of traditionally dressed characters began to fill the square.
Then the church doors opened.
The bride, groom, and wedding party emerged to balloons spinning, bands playing, and Guelaguetza (offering) groups dancing.
The whole community poured out from the center into the streets to celebrate.
There were three weddings that day with two fiestas de quinceañeras (15th birthday celebrations) held in between them.
It is difficult to be sad in Oaxaca, except when one is leaving here. We would definitely call in here again on our trip back to Amandla.
Next up was a visit to the Toltec Warriors standing guard atop the Pyramid of Quetzalcoatl in Tula.
They silenced me.
We’d shown up before the busses and had the place to ourselves.
Our last stop on the road to La Cruz was at the colorful, cobblestoned village of San Miguel de Allende; much charm remains here in spite of the ex-pat invasion.
And then it was onward to La Cruz de Huanacaxtle for the big reunion.
Image Courtesy Jean Thompson
I often say and repeat it, Lisa, but your lifestyle is a goal for me!
And not only that.. thanks for the great insight in yachting/sailing (of which I know zilch about – I watched Master & Commander with a dictionary at the ready) and the vicarious trip through parts of Mexico I didn’t know. Your pictures of people are just incredible – they are all so beautiful… What a great land.
To quote one of my favorite authors, “to achieve one’s dreams is a great feeling: to do so after having put some level of effort is even better..” I am looking forward to the day when the doors open once again, and we can continue to pursue our travel dreams once again. In the meantime, I will join you in consuming (and creating) new chapters for The Decameron. Thank you, Fabrizio, for your visit and lovely comment about the images. And thank you also for taking me back to those beautiful blue whales in Sri Lanka.
I need to spend more time in Mexico. My like button has stopped working.
Thank you for your visit, Peggy. Honestly, with Mexico being so close to my home, I hadn’t given much thought to traveling here, as if I needed to journey halfway around the globe to find awesomeness. I’ve been pleasantly surprised by the non-stop A-MA-ZING that we’ve seen here and am inspired to explore here more deeply …once the world opens its door again.
Marvellous times shown here, Lisa. Wishing you and the captain continued sojourns in parts of the world that haven’t gone panic-mad 🙂
We are fortunate to have experienced such marvels here and to now be safe and healthy with full provisions as Mexico implements restrictions. Given border closures around the globe, many of our fellow cruisers are stuck in countries they don’t want to be in, some being refused shore access. Two of our ‘buddy boats’ are en route from Panama to Mexico right now in hopes of getting here while borders remain open.
Looking forward to the day when the doors opening again. Until then, I am enjoying catching up with friends online.
So glad to hear you are in a ‘good place’ in all meanings, Lisa. Professor Michael Levitt has some sane things to say about the virus and its course should you feel inclined to google him.
Just checked our your Professor Michael Levitt and found comfort in his predictions. Thank you so much for pointing me in his direction.
Also Professor Dr Sucharit Bhakdi, Germany’s most eminent infectious disease specialist.
He offers a very intereting perspecitve. Thank you
He does! 🙂
Beautiful journey, Lisa. Stay safe and healthy.
Deb
The past few months in Mexico will have me smiling for years to come. Thank you for hanging out with me here, for making me laugh on your pages and for your good wishes.
Hey Lisa! So glad you not only made the best of the changed situation, but oh what a colourful adventure you had! Hope you’re ok hunkering down where you for a while… stay safe, healthy and planning ahead 😉
Thank you for joining me in Mexico virtually. We are safe, healthy and well provisioned. A little stir crazy and need to get off the boat more for some of your recommended sea, sand, and blue therapy. Delighted to know that you are safe and sound in Bali.
Be well; be safe; be kind.
Thank you for your good wishes and sound advice. Virtual connection filled with kindness is key at this time.
I love your colorful images, as usual! You always seem to know exactly what to do to immerse yourself completely and totally in a local culture. I so admire that about you. 🙂
I’m so glad to hear you are safe in the midst of CO-VID. What strange times we are living in. I’m sorry to hear you’ve had to delay your travels back home, but I’m hoping we can all make the most of this strange new normal we’re living in while it lasts. Stay safe and healthy, and here’s to hopefully crossing paths in person sooner than later when you do make it back Stateside.
😊🙏I was surprised by how much local culture we found on our travels here. I’d always thought of Mexico as just a string of hotels on beaches. I was wrong. Am blessed to have had such grand adventures and now be moored in a safe harbor and a good Captain (who is also a chef). Are you sheltering-in-place in DC, or did you return to Minnesota? I very much look forward to meeting in person when I return Stateside. Thank you for your visit and lovely compliments.
So glad Mexico was a surprise for you. It sure looks like you made the most of your time there. 🙂
I’m in DC, but keeping in touch with friends and family back home pretty regularly! Glad to hear you are safe, healthy, and eating well, and I’m so looking forward to meeting! It will be all the more meaningful to venture out and meet each other after this extended period of social distancing and isolation.
Glad to hear you are safe and surrounded by love, albeit virtually. Totally agree with you on the bright side of all of this; gratitude for in person connections and the old normal. Looking forward to meeting up.
Can’t believe we are so close yet so far! Wish you guys were still in Oaxaca so we could connect once again. It was interesting to read about your road trip as we are so looking forward to being in an exploration mode once the Corona virus is over, although it has not even hit here yet, so it could and probably will be months before that happens.
A few of your stops generated “ooh, we definitely want to go there”, such as the canyon and the Toltec warriors. Also we are super interested to visit some of the indigenous villages and we are right at the beginning of a discovery of what real Mexcian food is and loving it all so far.
Glad you got to connect with good friends just before the lockdown. Seems you might be in La Paz for a while? If you come back to the Oaxaca coast there is a bungalow right next to the house we have rented just waiting for you!! No outdoor bathtub though ahha.
The dolphin, stingray, whale sightings sound absolutely awesome!!!!
xoxo
Peta & Ben
We are delighted to inspire your travel itinerary and am happy to report that we have more locations to share in the next blog post. So disappointed that we are north of you and very tempted to make another visit to Oaxaca State when we are no longer sheltering in place. Hoping the doors open soon so we can all do some more exploring (perhaps with you visiting us here in La Paz?), but I think we are all going to be sitting tight for a while. Love that you are a ‘flexitarian’ so that you can explore all the excellent food here. Hugs!
Another lovely post, amiga. We’re aching to do more inland travel in Mexico once the COVID stuff has blown over, and now we have even more inspiration. Your photos are like postcards – so much color, energy, and life. And how serendipitous was that to land in Oaxaca City for all those weddings and quinceañeras!
Glad you two are safely hunkered in La Paz – hope you can get out to the islands soon. Big virtual hugs from both of us 🙂
Honestly, I would love to stay in Mexico for another year to explore here overland and sea. It would be great if I could figure out some way to replenish the cruising kitty remotely while doors are closed so that I could continue adventuring when they open again. But we are blessed to have enjoyed 7+ years of it, creating so many good memories to buoy our spirits now. There was a bit of bluster on Facebook yesterday with rumors of the closing of the ports, but the marinas intervened, and private vessels are still allowed to transit from place to place. I am keen to explore the Sea of Cortez once Fabio has recovered from his rib injury, but he currently prefers to stay in the marina close to stores and hospitals should we need them. We shall see.
Glad to hear you and the Captain are safe, Lisa. I was thinking about you and wondering how the COVID_19 pandemic affects your plans. Thank you for your updates and stunning photos that capture the beauty of the oceans, fish life, sights to see, the people and life in high spirits. Stay safe and be well!
Delighted to be in your thoughts and grateful for your visit, good wishes, and kind compliments. Looking forward to the day that we can all go exploring outside again, but in the interim, I am armed with your book recommendations while we adventure at the dock. Keep sane and healthy!
I’ve been wondering about you, dear. I figured you wouldn’t have been able to enter the US right now. So good to hear that you have taken shelter in a friendly place. Your Mexico odyssey is such a treat to behold. Oaxaca is the part of Mexico that I’d most like to visit. My own voyage to Peru has disintegrated, hopefully I can go in November. Safe travels to you, my friend.💕
I am so happy that you were not in the middle of your Peru odyssey when the doors slammed shut. I look forward to the day when they open once again, and we can all go exploring. Mexico has far exceeded my expectations, and I want to see more!!! We could have returned to the US but opted not to at this time. Our primary reasons to come home were to see friends/family and find work to replenish the cruising kitty. With self-isolation and remote working, it seemed to make more sense to stay put. Home is where the boat is, after all, at least until we haul her out for storage. Looking forward to a new blog post from you. Love your stories.
What an epic journey you’ve been on to get to your sheltering place. So many wonderful photos! I’m guessing you mean La Paz, Baja, Mexico? Which means you eventually got through another weather window for The Tehuantepeckers?
Your land journey sounds rich with people and places and rewarding experiences. The wedding in Oaxaca introduced you to many of the Guelaguetza Festival dancers we saw at the festival in 2013 I think it was – another amazing Mexican festival that is definitely worth attending. Thanks for the shout out re Grande Fiesta de Enero. That was an unforgettable experience for sure.
Although I’m not a sailor (I do believe I’d become afraid once losing sight of shore though I love being out on boats, and did do a cross-pacific voyage on a cruise liner way back in my 20’s and loved it)) I envy you the sightings of all those wonderful marine animals. The natural world is such a show stopper! Only every time!
Alison
I am delighted that we had an opportunity to taste of Mexico’s inner beauty and would love to explore more here someday. We did manage to transit the Tuhuantepec in mid-February (more on the crazy ride north in the next post) and are now safely docked in Baja California Sur. You are welcome for the shout out. I adore your wonderful Mexico posts and have been recommending them to others who plan to visit here (when the doors open again). I hope the world heals soon. Luckily, you’ve got many more stories to share before you need to go exploring again. Can’t wait to read them. Stay safe and healthy.
I am in awe of your beautiful writing and images, Lisa. Your words made me want to get on the next plane to Mexico – anywhere, really, but I dearly wish I could join you in La Paz. Thank you for the link to my Oaxaca posts. Your pictures of the celebrations brought tears to my eyes… it’s such a joyful city. And, you have given me more places to visit in Mexico; I would be happy just following your map from sea to sea. Take care, my friend. I am looking forward to reading Part 2.
Thank you for making me feel exceptional, as you always do, Janis! I am grateful for your visit, kind feedback, and beautiful series that lead me to Oaxaca in the first place. Missing that weather window was a blessing that allowed us to explore so much awesome within Mexico’s interior. I wish you were here in La Paz, too (under different circumstances, of course). Looking forward to visiting Parque Piedras y Pájaros in La Paz, and finding our way to San Diego when the COVID-19 situation stabilizes.
Awesome, as usual. Makes me feel a little less lonesome for the trip we missed to Guate. I loved the Toltec Warriors. Stay safe, and keep sharing your story.
Delighted that I could virtually transport you close to the Guatemala border with this post. I am still so heartbroken that Jackson’s birthday journey had to be postponed and look forward to the day that you can follow through with your plans. Keep laughing and loving.
I’m glad you’re save. It would have be disappointing for you to return to California and get the virus after having traveled the world.
Stay safe, take lots of sunset photos, fish, and dream about your next adventure.
I’m in the middle of a rewrite. I always think the book is perfect and there will be little to do. I’m always wrong. I’ll be glad when I’m finished. The book will be so much better.
This time through, I’m no longer writing with fuzzy thinking. As I get better, so does my brain.
We are so fortunate to remain in good health and have a safe place to isolate. Glad to hear that you have a rewrite to carry you through this crazy time and are tackling it with a clear mind. Looking forward to savoring the finished product.
We have on thing in common. We’ve both in a sense have been confined. You to your boat and me to my apartment. For us this “stay at home” is not so bad. For us it’s life as usually.
As for my book . . . have you considered writing a few reviews . . . one for each book? Every bit helps. Thanks.
Of course. Happy to do so. Added to my list of things I want to do while sheltering.
Thanks. ;0)
Hi, Lisa – I’m so glad to hear that you and The Captain are safe. The photos and descriptions of your journey are absolutely stunning. They are also greatly appreciated at this time of home-isolation. My itchy feet feel have been relieved by this virtual travel.
Stay safe and continue to keep us posted.
BTW – I also agree about the beautiful writing of Janis Heppell!
I am so glad that you and I both enjoyed a little Mexico love before COVID-19 hit, but sad that our travels didn’t take us to the same location. It would have been fun to meet up. Next time …and I hope it is soon :-). We continue to be healthy and safe on a marina dock in La Paz. I hope to get out on the bikes this afternoon to visit a small park recommended by Janis Heppell. She always steers us right.
Glad to see you are staying well and keeping connected with family and friends via group video conference. Your positive posts keep my spirits upbeat.
I absolutely love that church with flags image.
Thank you so much for your lovely comment on the image. It means a great deal given your photography prowess. I created it by stitching three RAW photos together as a Panorama. Love that Lightroom Feature. Thank you also for the Retweet.
Oh ok, I was wondering how you had created that image.
Oh, Lisa, what an epic post and trip! So many beautiful people and memories. I wish you both all well. Greetings and hugs from our home in Tuscany which is the best place in the world right now.
Ha! I feel the same way about our home being ‘the best place to be in the world’ right now. I so miss everyone in this time of isolation but feel so fortunate to have a safe, comfortable place to isolate with a Captain who keeps me well fed ;-). Thank you for your lovely compliment on the post and the RT. Loved the wisdom on the walls in your recent post and am linking to it here.
Your home is still Amandla, right? Oh yes, those feeding Italians… There is none better. 😉 And thank you for linking to my words on walls. <3
😃Home is still Amandla and we are blessed to be sheltered upon her!
<3
Sadly, we haven’t quite made it to Mexico as yet. But if we’re in need of inspiration, you’ve just supplied bucket loads! Beautiful photographs and writing again, Lisa. Stay safe!
A Mexico road-trip is in your future, I am sure of it. Glad that you have a safe place to shelter in rural France for the foreseeable future. Especially scary time for Nicky with chronic asthma.
I am looking forward to more of your gorgeous posts to keep us all dreaming for when the doors open again. Thank you so much for your visit, good wishes, and kind feedback. Always a treat to see you here.
I love how you and the Captain turned your disappointment into a 4800km roadtrip that turned out to be full of serendipitous moments, Lisa. I was wondering where you were, and am glad to hear that you are safe and in a good place to hunker down for this pandemic to blow over. Take good care of yourselves.
Ahoy Jolandi! Great to hear from you. We are very fortunate to have a safe place to shelter while this virus blows through. And I am looking forward to the day when we can unstrap ourselves from the dock and slowly make our way northward, isolating in some majestic anchorages along the way. Glad to know that you made it back to your beautiful olive groves just in time and that you are both safe and well.
Surrounded by warmth and colour wherever you go, Lisa 🙂 🙂 I doubt if anything ever drags you down. I hope not! Keep sharing your beautiful world- it’s a tonic. And stay safe!
I have much to be grateful for Jo – a safe place to isolate in the blue, a Captain who is a whiz in the kitchen, good travel memories, great friends and a healthy family. All that is missing is some of that yummy cake you’ve been showcasing in your posts. I am tempted to use a bit of extra propane to bake ourselves one 🍰
🤭🍰🍷💕
Lisa, I’m so glad your initial disappointment turned into a string of magical experiences. Your photos just pop! I was thrilled to read about San Cristobal, Chamula and the Sumidero Canyon—all places I have researched for a trip that we had contemplated taking next month. Perhaps it’s a blessing in disguise that this won’t be happening and I’ll take your advice about going during the January festival next year.
So you’re hunkered down in La Paz! Thankfully the incredible marine life there know nothing of this dreadful virus.Perhaps you will see the whale sharks in La Paz Bay! A good friend of mine is currently “stuck” in La Paz as she can’t get a flight home. It’s not a hardship for her as she’s renovating a house and enjoying the sun. However, as of a week ago, when we last spoke, she said that life has not changed much—no social distancing and lots of crowded markets.
All the best to you guys. Be safe!
I can not wait to see you both in Mexico and agree that the bright side of travel delays would be finding yourself in Chiapas in January. Alternatively, if things open up by July, and your feet start itching, you could head to the Guelaguetza Festival, also called the Lunes del Cerro in Oaxaca. I would love to see it.
I would love to be snorkeling with whale sharks in La Paz Bay, but we are strapped to a dock in Marina Palmira at the moment, contemplating our next steps; stay put or slowly make our way north in the Sea of Cortez. My preference is Door Number 2. We shall see. I am glad to know that your friend had a safe place to stay. Is she still in La Paz? Things are slowly changing here.
Hmm, technology is messing with me. I could have sworn I hit post comment…anyway, sorry if this is a sort-of duplicate. Your July suggestion is very tempting though I’ve been hearing rather pessimistic timelines for our isolation/social distancing.
Door Number 2 sounds interesting. Would you be sailing close to shore past beautiful spots like Loretto and Bahia Concepcion…?
My friend is still in La Paz and hasn’t had luck with a flight home. She doing fine though; thanks for asking.
Well if you friend needs local (albeit virtual) expat friends, have her give us a shout. We are part of an extended cruising community with VHF nets every morning and can raise any questions that she might have on the morning net.
We would be passing by Loretto, Bahia Concepcion and many others in The Sea (#dreaming). The biggest concern with Door #2 is access to provisions (or god forbid hospitals) as we move further north. Although I think we have enough provisions and would prefer to spend my last days sailing if the alternative is the hospital.
Having covered a fair amount of Mexico myself over the years, I know it is a colorful and fun place to spend some time, and your photos and stories certainly bear that out! I had no idea you’d done a road trip of that length (I also tend to forget how much Mexico rambles on; it’s always so much longer than I remember). But do you have all you need right now, or do you have to go back to shore for provisions? J is worried about Mexico (he is in constant touch as most of their employees are there) because until the last few days, they have/had been woefully complacent about what was/is coming.
Eager to catch up on the pre-virus decisions you’d made, but I’ll save all that for an email! Take good care of yourselves!
Ooooh, as I am now traveling virtually, I am going to have a wander through your Mexico posts to bathe myself in some more color!!!! We are good. Strapped to a dock with full provisions and dreaming of sailing in the Sea of Cortez. J is right to be worried about Mexico. They were slow to respond, which in a way, was lucky for us as we were able to refill the stores we’d depleted in anticipation of heading homeward. They are serious now.
Life looks so very colourful! Fabulous. Glad to read you are safe and well.
Rainbow filled memories of Mexico are just what I need to see me through this stormy pandemic. All good here. The smiles from your recent posts have made my April brighter. Always a pleasure to read you.
Aw, thank you!
Hi Lisa!
You’ve had some ups and downs the last months. Phew – but your flexibility and determination and creativity always pays off! You two often seem to stumble across celebrations as well, although in Mexico this is quite easy.
Such beautiful, colorful, and happy photos! I’m so glad you managed to meet up with all these friends. Especially right before this madness started! Stay safe in La Paz and know that we often think about you and the Captain! May our paths cross again soon! Xxx
Thank you for your love on the photos and your note in my in-box. We miss you both very much and were hoping to meet Maya in Puerto Peñasco. Despite all the corona-craziness, we are safe and healthy aboard Amandla with plenty of provisions for the foreseeable future. Mexico is still welcoming us and has not yet closed its borders to sailors seeking refuge from countries south of its border (we are monitoring a few buddy boats making way here from Panama at the moment). And memories of the past seven years of travel will keep us smiling for years to come. Still looking for ways to replenish the cruising kitty, but we have enough to keep ourselves afloat. I do miss our friends and family, but they are all healthy right now too.
In spite of all the delays, you should have fun in LaPaz, especially if you can swim with the whale sharks, Lisa! Otherwise, my mouth is agape reading about your epic road trip along with the ocean journey! Seems like Latin America was spared the nastiness of Covid19, so you are better off hanging out in Mexico until you can get back to the states. Glorious pictures as always, so much joy in the world, which says so much about the resilience of the human condition in uncertain times.
We feel very fortunate to be in Marina Palmira safely aboard Amandla. Restrictions in the time of coronavirus are limiting our explorations in downtown La Paz and excursions a sea. Only one person at a time from a household is allowed outside to exercise or to enter a shop. Tour operators are shuttered, and we are prohibited from making day trips on Amandla. We are weighing our longer-term options 1) slowly transit from here to Puerto Peñasco 2) self-isolate for an extended period in Sea or, 3) stay put. Delighted you enjoyed the images and glad to know you are as well as can be in the States.
Sounds like Mexico is doing things right by keeping people at home. The US should have done that here, sooner, but oh well. Please stay safe and enjoy the warm breezes, Lisa!
They are now… Mexico was a bit late in formulating a response to the crisis as well. Hopefully, not too late. Good article here on the subject. Still, Mexico seemed to be responding better than the US in late March. We had a crew fly out from here on 20 March. He was socially distanced at Mexican airports and his temperature was taken before he was allowed to board the plane. When he arrived in the US, he was cattle herded cheek to cheek with 500 others through customs, no temperature taken.
Interesting article! Thanks.
You saw, right on time, the brightest colours this country can offer. I just hope the country does not suffer too much from the epidemic and carelessness of its leaders…
Stay safe… Hugs to you and the Captain…
How lucky are we?!?!? #very It seems like a million years ago now, but the memories will keep us smiling for years to come. You and Amria will be making an appearance in the next post. Thank you so much yet again for showing us such great hospitality when we visited Mexico City. I can’t wait to see you both again when this storm blows over.
There will be a before and after, right? 🙂
It was such a pleasure to meet you both. We will meet again I’m sure. I think Julie is still holding us to that beer. 🙂 Her trip to a mysterious destination in April has obviously been canceled. BUt she sounds in good spirits. OH, just remembering. How’s your mother? Where does she live? Chicago?
Most definitely! Many more grand adventures to come for all of us.
Mom doing great. She had a cold few weeks back which freaked me out but she recovered and is doing just fine. She’s tough as nails and I am certain she will be with us for a very long time.
Amen to that. Yeah, a cold can freak you out. I had one for almost 2 weeks… Paft hay fever, part sinusitis… But I’m ok now. Touch wood. So good to know about your mother. Wherever she lives in the US, she has to stay home.
The slightest cough can give one pause for thought these days so I can appreciate how a two-weeks long cold would freak you out. Glad that you are recovered and safe. Mom is under strict instructions not to go out before April 30th. She has everything she needs at home.
April 30th is a good time-frame. Though it may take more… Who knows… Now my cold didn’t worry me so much. It was exactly like the 40 colds our grandson has given me over the past years. We seem to have a genetic affinity and any time he gets a running nose, I’m in for it… 😷Now, I had no fever, so I felt all right. ✌️
How are you guys doing? The Captain’s ribs? Healing ok?
We are as good as could be under the circumstances. The captain is 99% recovered from the rib fracture and making me Gnocchi.
Both are good. 👍🏻
Lisa, I am constantly in awe of your stunning photos … and then you weave them all together in a story that draws me in.
So sorry to hear you are ‘stranded’ because of this global pandemic. I think it’s safe to say none of us ever expected it would come to this. Stay well and I’m sure your ability to see the wonder in the world will find glorious scenes to enjoy even during this period of isolation 💕
Ahoy there, Joanne! Thank you for your love and good wishes. While we find ourselves unexpectedly south of the border, we are grateful that our friends and family remain healthy, that we have a roof (deck) over our heads, and that the sun is shining through the hatches. Hope this corona-storm dissipates soon
Hola! You seem to have an amazing radar for finding local celebrations and parades! I always love the photos of people in their traditional costumes. The wedding video was fun to see- so much happiness! It is sad to think that we now have no weddings, celebrations or even funerals right now. We are on week three of lock down here, and are doing as well as can be expected. Thankfully we can still walk outside. I was supposed to be heading to Italy for two weeks and am sad to not be able to go. In the meantime, we will work on house projects. I’m glad you are sheltering on the boat- Italy and New York are definitely places you don’t want to be right now. Mexico seems to be several weeks behind the rest of us in terms of cases and hopefully will not be hit hard. Stay well!
No weddings, celebrations or funerals right now, but discussions still underway about whether to hold a primary in Wisconsin on Tuesday. Crazy. I am glad that your daughter’s destination wedding happened before the time of coronavirus. My baby cousin had been planning a surprise 65th birthday party for her mother, but in the end, we sent video clips instead of ourselves. Things are getting a bit more severe in Mexico, but relative to the US, the numbers are still low. As we are stationary for a while, you and I should schedule a catch-up. It might be a brief one as things are so up in the air at the moment, but it would be nice to say hello.
Thankfully, most everyone I know has voted via mail. They are still fighting for a last minute shut down. The whole thing is crazy.
I have a fairly free schedule these days. let me know when you want to talk!
I don’t quite understand what any politician thinks they have to gain by forcing a primary vote tomorrow. It will be interesting to see how the Supreme Court rules. Glad to know that almost everyone you know voted by mail. I’ll send you a note regarding the catch-up.
I am looking forward to it.
Glad you are safe and healthy Lisa! Take care!
Thank you Nicole. Uplifted by your postcard from home and relieved to hear you are well.
Such light and colour! A marvellous post, looking forward to the next leg of your adventure.
Mexico far exceeded my expectations. Given that it is right in my backyard, I’d always overlooked it for places much further afield. I’d incorrectly envisioned it as something with lots of tourists in high rise hotels and crowded beaches. I was very wrong. All I saw was color, culture, and grand history. Tempted to stick around a little longer post-virus to explore a bit more deeply. Glad to see you are keeping well.
I’m also glad to see you are keeping well. I’ve been to Mexico a few times (Merida, Cozumel, Monterrey, Mexico City, various ruins, and just over the border from Texas when my parents wintered there) but not the rural, unvisited parts you describe. I always liked what I experienced.
It is a fabulous country. I can’t think of one place that we visited here (rural and urban) that we disliked. Mexico City coming up in the next post!
Pyramids too?
Indeed! Teuhautican, Milta and more …
Fabulous!
A little disappointed in the photos as there wasn’t one with street art!!! Good know you’re still floating and good to go. I’ve leased a villa in Bali…I guess I’m retired.
Ahoy Mr. Badfish! Gosh, I’ve missed your posts. Will you start writing again while you are in seclusion? Delighted to see on IG that you are safe and well in Bali. Can’t think of a better place to sit out the corona-storm.
I managed to sneak one piece of street art into the sole gallery in this post. More coming up in part two.
You attract vibrant colors everywhere you go. Thank you once again for sharing such beautiful culture…sounds like the universe is saying your travels are not yet quite finished. Enjoy yet another spontaneous adventure and be well.
I love your perspective (universe setting me/us all up unexpectedly for another spontaneous adventure). Grateful to be surrounded by color, the warm tones of rural Mexico fill my memories while we float at home on beautiful blue seas. Yes, we are in a marina at the moment, but hopefully, there is a remote anchorage brimming with sea life in our near future. Thank you, Cristina, for your visit and words filled with wisdom and love.
What a great way to turn a disappointment into something amazing. Those wedding celebrations look so beautiful! Looks like we could all look to Mexico for tips on how to celebrate 🙂
Thank you so much for your visit Erin. Lovely to meet you in the blogosphere.
Mexico’s culture is filled with a sense of endless celebration and lots of hugging. Difficult to put all that on hold right now, but so much to look forward to when the current storm passes. Grateful for the memories.
What an adventure! You got me to miss Oaxaca city. You’re right, you can never be unhappy there, seems like they have a celebration of some kind every day in the same plaza, in front of the church. When we visited, they also had something going on, I was surprised when I learned that it was really not an important holiday, just some company celebrated an anniversary; but it was so much fun! Besides that, they had dances every night in the zocalo. Oaxacans really know how to have fun 🙂 I love Mexico, the culture, the colors and the people; you couldn’t be in a better place right now.
Oooh, I missed the dances in the Zocalo! We tend to be in bed by 09:00 PM (cruiser midnight) and up with the first light. But you’ve given me another good reason to return to Oaxaca …and stay up a little later next time.
What a beautiful post. Have heard many great things about Oaxaca and that wedding is amazing! Beautiful stories thank you for sharing.
I hope your travels bring you Oaxaca way. I’d heard many good things too in advance of our visit, but it was still awesome beyond my wildest dreams. Cheers from La Paz.
Enjoyed your post very much. Beautiful photos: so full of color and so vibrant! I haven’t yet been to Mexico, but hopefully some day!
Delighted that you enjoyed the post. Thank you so much for your kind feedback. So much awesomeness in Mexico. I hope you find your way here someday soon!
Hi Lisa, You have such a beautiful writing voice. Aside from telling a story, your post conveys the emotions you feel and evokes emotions in me. Yes, “seismic shift.” I agree, an “unprecedented period…”. And yes, “uncharted waters.” I had better stop now, or I will start quoting your entire post.🙂
I loved your description of the sea. I greatly appreciate your map for a frame of reference. Your photos are stunning as always. The colours are brilliant. I also enjoy all of Janis Heppell’s posts and her wonderful photography. I look forward to Part 2. A visually beautiful and interesting post. Thank you! Take care and stay well. xx
Thank you for showering me with so much love this morning, Erica. You’ve really perked up my spirits with your very generous feedback and positivity …but then you always do. Pleasure to see you here. Keep safe and well.
A lovely recount of your experiences, and wonderful photos to match. Oaxaca is a place I want to visit the next time I visit Mexico.
BTW, I read that Mexicans were demanding the border wall be completed a few weeks ago, to keep covid-19 from entering Mexico with people escaping the USA. You have to take your laughs where you can find them in this time of crisis.
How about that border. The irony! I would love to see your lens on Oaxaca. Am still ooohing and ahhing over your Myanmar posts in my minds-eye. Adore your portraiture work ..and your landscapes too.
Hope you make it where you are going safely.
Well, how lovely to see your name pop up on my post?!?! I hope you are keeping safe and well. We are remaining healthy and sane aboard Amandla in La Paz. Hoping to sail slowly up the Sea of Cortez toward Puerto Peñasco soon.
What another wonderful post full of beautiful photos Lisa! The church at San Cristóbal de las Casas looks almost identical to the church in San Cristóbal in Bolivia near the Salar de Uyuni.
Yes, this horrid virus has halted everyone’s lives and hoping that it makes people appreciate how precious life is and not to be taken for granted!
Thank you for your love, Nilla. I am grateful for the memories and for having a safe place to isolate (with a Captain who just made homemade Gnocchi). Relieved to know you are safe and well in Brisbane rather than in your adopted home of Italy (although I think southern Italy is in much better shape than the north). I am enjoying your posts about your former liveaboard life.
Homemade Gnocchi! You are spoilt but sure you deserve it! 😉
I miss southern Italy and friends there but can’t see myself returning anytime soon.
Thank you! I don’t mind constructive criticism on my writing, especially from such a wonderful writer as yourself! 😉
😊🥰💞
Lisa what an extraordinary adventure. I am happy to hear you are in La Paz. I know many things we loved about it are closed now but it remains a location we feel very good about. As always I admire your flexibility and adaptability to changing situations. After these years at sea it must be an absolute requirement. Sending hugs across the miles and we hope this finds you both safe and well.
Not exactly how I’d envisioned my time in La Paz, but happy to be safe and sound here as I dream of experiencing it as you did. We are currently in a marina, but considering our longer-term options, stay here or isolate in the Sea of Cortez as we slowly make our way to Puerto Peñasco. With several 14+ day passages and many remote anchorages under our belts, self-isolation and provisioning for the long term are nothing new to us. Our biggest concern is for family and friends back home. Am happy to report that all but one remain virus-free and the one that ended up on a ventilator in a hospital for a time is now back home. Glad you are doing well and looking forward to contributing to your Views of COVID 19 Series Thank you for the virtual hugs!
What an incredible adventure! I’m glad you got to a safe place and I’m looking forward to hearing what happens next. Your beautiful photos are so colourful and crisp!
Thank you so much for your kind feedback on the images and the travel tales. Delighted to know you’re well and have devised a number of ways to stay sane at this time.
Happy to hear you are safe and healthy. I’ve loved Mexico ever since my first trip many years ago to the Yucatan Peninsula and I find myself returning again and again to the country. Your photos and accounts of Oaxaca brought back lovely memories for me as well of that region’s specific vitality and commitment to living harmoniously with the landscape. Take care!
Why I thought that Mexico would be nothing but high-rise hotels with gringo-filled beaches is beyond me. So wrong. I could explore here for YEARS and never get bored. Hoping health returns here and to the world soon. Crazy times. I loved your images of the Painted Hills in Oregon. Added to my bucket list. Great to hear from you.
I hope you’re safe there in Mexico. 🙂 This is my first time here and I think I’m gonna go back here frequently to read your amazing chronicles. 😀
Wonderful photos, Lisa. So much colour and vibrance. Stay safe and make lots more good memories whilst you wait this virus out. I await your next episode. xx
I would LOVE to be out making some good memories in The Sea of Cortez right now, but The Captain prefers to isolate on a dock. No worries. I am grateful to be safe and well. In the meantime, I am enjoying a bit of armchair travel and catching up with family and friends. Delighted you enjoyed the images.
Being safe and well is the main thing, Lisa. Enjoy your relaxing time. 🙂
If you’re going to be stuck on your boat for a while, it’s nice you were able to load up on so many good memories to carry you through. We were just about to discover Mexico for the first time (planned departure tomorrow) when the virus shut everything down. Maybe next year…
Oh my goodness. I am so sorry to hear that your first visit to Mexico was delayed by the pandemic. I hope that you were able to recoup your investment. Very much looking forward to seeing Mexico through your lens when the doors open again. And January would be an AMAZING time to visit if you are interested in cultural celebrations such as the Fiesta Grande in Chiapa de Corzo.
The tour company has offered an 18 month credit towards future travel, with any luck we’ll be able to take advantage of it. I suspect we’ll end up taking a hit on the airfare, the airlines don’t seem as generous with their timing. We’ll get to Mexico some day for sure.
Good to hear that the tour company is being gracious. Good business sense. I wish the airlines would be as wise.
Beautiful images and what an exciting trip! Mexico is an excellent country – with rich cultures, good food and friendly people. I am looking forward to your next story. Wishing you well and stay safe!
Lovely to see you here, Indah, and delighted to read that you are keeping safe and well in Jakarta. Mexico has over-delivered awesomeness, and we are fortunate to have created so many good memories here. Thank you so much for your good wishes and kind feedback on the images.
Hi Lisa, Fabulous images and travel storytelling. Thoroughly enjoyed. Looking forward to following you and wish you safe and healthy travels. (I also follow Alison and Don).
Hi Jane – Your kind feedback means a great deal to me, given your talent with a camera. Thank you! Any friend of Alison and Don’s (virtual or otherwise) is a friend of mine. Stay safe.
The trip looks incredible, in spite of the need for a change in plans at the end. It’s good to hear that you are in a safe place.
I feel blessed to have a safe place to shelter, but a visit to your blog today had me feeling very homesick with words from beloved grandmothers and recipes with dandelions. It makes me want to return home now more than ever. I am also grateful to have been able to create so many grand memories far away from home. Thank you for your visit.
so beautiful photos!
have a nice day 🙂
Grazie for your generous compliment and comforting words “Sei come il vento”
So glad to know you are in a safe place, Lisa. Your life at sea, watching whales, the star…is a life that one can only dream of in our current covid-19, but so immensely fortunate to read true experiences written from your heart. Mexico sounds fab, so colourful and so full of life a culture which I look forward to experiencing. Oaxaca is on my list. Stay safe, take care. xx
We are grateful to have a safe place to shelter aboard Amandla in La Paz. I can’t wait to see you visit Oaxaca (and me Italy ;-). Mexico has far exceeded my expectations with its history, vibrance, and warmth. Good to see you are continuing to create informative posts that are delightful both for armchair travel and the real thing when travel is allowed again.
This was an enchanting post to read about Mexico. Missing the window to sail through great weather by one day didn’t turn out too bad. Sounds like something different to see everyday on this month-long journey. From what you wrote – the festivals, weddings, celebrations – there is a strong sense of community over there and you captured that very well in your amazing, stunning and colourful photography. Everyone looks like they are having a good time. And so lovely to hear some of your sailing friends come join you for the ride. Good company is what makes it travelling all so much better.
All of that seems like another world away…for now. Stay safe. Mr Wobble and Star Wars crew send their well wishes to you and Amandla <3
Ahoy Mabel. Apologies for my delay in responding. We were without the internet on our passage from La Paz. And now have to dinghy to the marina at Puerto Escondido for the web. Such a pleasure to see you here and delighted that you enjoyed the post. Thank you so much for sharing.
I am looking forward to the day when Mexico is alive with celebration again. In the interim, we have secured our hurricane mooring for the season and hope to be sailing back into the Sea very soon.
I am glad that you have that rascal, Mr. Wobbles, and the adorable Star Wars crew to keep your spirits up in the current moment. Will we see any creative additions to the team in the near term? Love to you all.
That’s alright, Lisa. No need to apologies. Good to hear you are well, and the blog world will always be here when you are ready when you get wifi 😀
One day, the world will be in a better place. For now, enjoy the quiet. Not sure if there will be any creative additions, but who knows 😊
Wisdom! #enjoythequiet 🙉Hugs from The Sea
what a beautiful photos!
have a nice week end
I am delighted that you think so! I hope you had a wonderful weekend.
What a tonic your posts are Lisa! Love your photographs to bits! Hope all’s well with you.
Ahoy Richard. Thank you for your love. You put a smile on my face today with your eloquent feedback. We just arrived in Puerto Escondido, Mexico after a few days sail here from La Paz. It was a glorious trip with jaw-dropping landscapes the whole way. We have secured a hurricane mooring here for the season (just in case) and hope to be sailing back into the Sea very soon.
I hope that you are safe and well and continuing to create beautiful art.
Hi there! First to be on your blog and I just wanted to say hello. Your lifestyle a dream for me, I wonder how you manage family life and travelling?
By the way, I am new in blogging and I just recently I made a challenge to myself to do blog hopping for the next 21 days. Each blog I will have it’s link posted on my blog so you can check yours. Hope you can support me leaving a comment on my blog.
Lovely to meet you, Vanessa. Thank you for visiting my pages.
To answer your question, I have been blessed to have visits from my family in different ports around the globe. During the pandemic, we keep in touch via Zoom, email, and telephone.
Your journey is so incredible and truly inspires us! The colour pops and smiling faces in your pictures make me so happy. I don’t know how travel will be shaped in the future. And I also know that’s probably the last thing we should be worrying about right now. I’m enjoying armchair travelling and your post tops my list! A big thank you for brightening my day!
It must be hard to figure out a course when everything comes to a standstill. I do hope you are safe and well in Mexico. Take care and stay safe. xoxo
Ahoy from Puerto Escondido, Cheryl. I am delighted to have brightened your day. You certainly brightened mine with your visit. I am happy to report that we have a safe place to shelter aboard Amandla. We’ve moved on from La Paz and are currently resident on a mooring ball in Puerto Escondido. The internet is limited here so we may move again to one of the few remaining unrestricted anchorages, avoiding any place with small villages or the shuttered national parks. As good as things can be under the circumstances.
Ahh Mexico. A country I’ve been dreaming of visiting. Some bloggers that I’ve been following have written posts about the country that always make me even more eager to go. I love the colors, the different cultures, and I’d love to try the food. Being a land where many ingredients used in Indonesian dishes originated from, Mexico probably tops my list of a gastronomy destination. Then of course, the pyramids. As an ancient sites enthusiast, I’ve always wanted to see those Maya ruins — I gasped when I looked at your photo on the Pyramid of Quetzalcoatl in Tula. Thanks for writing this, Lisa, and stay healthy!
Many more ruins to come in the next post, and we only scratched the surface of the multiple sites here. So many more we want to visit when the doors open again. I thought of your beautiful Petra post when trying to created unique images of the pyramids at Teotihuacan (next post). I was inspired by your photographing the vestiges of the Nabateans’ ingenuity in water management while the other tourists had their backs turned with cameras focused on the infamous Siq. I do hope your travels bring you to Mexico. For me, the best part of the place is the extent to which rich traditions are intertwined in daily life. For the Captain, the best part is the food. I had no idea that some of the ingredients in your wonderful Indonesian dishes originated here in Mexico. Thank you so much for traveling with me virtually here. Keep safe and well.
I can’t wait to read your posts on the ruins, Lisa! When visiting some of the world’s most popular ancient sites myself, I realized that many interesting corners of those places are not often mentioned or photographed in people’s blogs. In a way, this gave me a lot of nice surprises when I saw them and thought to myself ‘oh, I didn’t know these existed!’ But on the other hand, this doesn’t do the place justice. Fingers crossed, one day I’ll make it to Mexico. Thanks and stay safe!
Always a treat to explore the world with you!
What a journey. Thanks for bringing me along with the amazing photos. And now… another journey to the surreal world where travel is stopped. For now.
Thanks for spending time with me on memory road today, Pam. Stay safe and healthy on your journey through the surreal world.