Deviations From Course: Sailing Homeward Part 2

Sue Slaught from Travel Tales of Life has published a compelling series of coronavirus stories from readers around the world. I was delighted when she asked me to contribute to her recent article, Views of COVID-19 – Life As A Nomad. You can find our latest news on Travel Tales of Life here.

Amandla At Puerto Los Gatos

What follows below is the second installment of our travels through Mexico at the dawn of the global pandemic. Thanks for giving me a little extra time and attention today.



Find Our Roadtrip Map Online Here

When it was clear that another weather-window would not open in time for us to sail to La Cruz de Huanacaxtle, we decided to turn our disappointment into a 4800-kilometer road trip to meet my friends there…

From Deviations From Course: Sailing Homeward Part 1

A Welcome (Almost) Home

As we descended the Sierra Madres from Tepic, the clouds started to roll in; the first we’d seen in Mexico. 

But there was plenty of light at Casa Ysuri, our oasis for the next five days in La Cruz Cruz de Huanacaxtle.

This group of friends initially formed for me in college, although half of them have known each other since grade school.  I wouldn’t have survived my twenties without them. 

Many years had passed since we’d seen each other. Jean and Cago were crazy enough to visit us in Bora Bora in 2014, and Barb and Peter saw us off in Florida in 2013.

Cago and Jean in Bora Bora in 2014 – Image courtesy Jean Thompson
It was love, at first sight, the day my BFF Nancy introduced our college friend Cago to her BFF from high school, Jean. Well, at least for Cago, it took three dates before Jean knew he was ‘the one.’

The rest had never met The Captain. The last time I’d seen the others was in Chicago in 2012, …with the exception of Sheri’s handsome new beau, Jeff, who joined the gang three years ago.

Sheri and Jeff

Yet it seemed that, rather than sailing away, I had traveled backward on my timeline. Yes, we’d all grown older physically, but mentally, it felt like if I’d seen these friends just the day before.

Left to Right Tim, Doug, Nancy, Sheri, Dave, Celeste, Barb, Cago, Peter, and Jean
Not Pictured: The Captain, Jane, Jeff, and Jet

While some went hiking, whale watching, deep-sea fishing, paddle boarding, and beachcombing, I remained at the house to catch up with those who’d stayed behind. I didn’t want to do anything but hear their stories and share mine.

We talked of career successes, frustrations, and transitions, of building and selling businesses, of starting bands and returning to the stage. We spoke of the friends and family members we’d lost over the years and of personal health scares. I marveled at the incredible children they’d raised: one is now a parent, several have entered the workforce, and the remainder are either enrolled in a university or solidly on the path to figuring it all out.  

We celebrated three birthdays including a milestone for Cago. Mostly, we just laughed — a lot. 

Image Courtesy The Captain

I couldn’t wait to see them again when I returned home in April.

But first, Fabio and I had to drive 2400 km south to Chiapas and then sail 1500 nautical miles north to Puerto Peñasco, where we’d planned to store Amandla.

Space Case Comics Issue 3
And the icing on the cake was that Nancy brought me Issue #3 of my beloved Space Case Comic (that is me drawn in as the star an extra on the bottom middle of the page)!
Space Case Comic is an action-packed, all-ages comic book series written by my cousin @drew_dorenfest, penciled and colored by @hazen.becker, and inked by @gene_margora_illustrations. Get your copy today!

The Road South

Mexico continued to deliver awesomeness on the return trip to Chiapas. 

Tlaquepaque street art featuring mariachi player wearing day of the dead mask
Tlaquepaque Streets

We rang in the start of our eighth year together in the funky artist community of Tlaquepaque, just outside of Guadalajara. 

Guanajuato's historic center is accessible through a series of winding tunnels

Then it was onward to the former silver mining town of Guanajuato, accessing its historic center through a series of winding tunnels.

Panoramic view of colorful Guanajuato
Guanajuato

Mariachi bands and wandering Callejoneadas keep this colorful college town alive well past midnight.

Callejoneadas Of Guanajuato Taking Selfie | Lisa Dorenfest
Callejoneadas Selfie

After a few restless nights in a place where only the mummies manage to sleep, we traveled further back along humanity’s timeline to ascend the pyramids at Teotihuacán.  

Pyramid Of The Moon Teotihuacán
The Moon Pyramid is approximately 141 feet, and it was constructed in seven phases between 50 CE and 400 CE. Many sacrificial offerings, human and otherwise, were found here during excavations.

The Aztecs rediscovered the ancient city centuries after it fell and named it Teotihuacán, believing that the gods created the universe at that site.  

Pyramid of The Sun at Teotihuacán
The Pyramid of the Sun is 206 feet high and was built in one single, massive construction effort around 150 CE. At its peak in, Teotihuacán was the largest city in the pre-Columbian Americas, with a population estimated at 125,000 or more in 450 CE.  The city covered over 30 km² (over 11 1⁄2 square miles) and was home to a multi-cultural, economically stratified population. A drought fueled famine, and internal strife caused its decline.

We knew little about the site besides the challenging height of the pyramids but learned a great deal more about Teotihuacán from our gracious host, Emily K. Grieves, at the nearby hotel and retreat center Villa Las Campanas.

Feathered Serpent Pyramid detail
In 2003, Mexican archaeologists discovered a large tunnel, the length of a football field, running west to east underneath the Feathered Serpent Pyramid. This tunnel was made early in Teotihuacan’s history, around 100 CE, before the construction of the pyramid above. The site was designed to re-create narratives on the origin of the universe. The years-long excavation uncovered multiple artifacts, including pendants and pyrite mirrors, thought to be portals to other realms. Most notable were four greenstone statues believed to be the creative forces responsible for maintaining order in the universe

Emily was drawn from her life in San Francisco to Teotihuacán, relocating here permanently in 2004. She’s created a body of artwork influenced by the cosmological imagery left in the ancient pyramids and maintains her studio at the hotel Villa Las Campanas.

Fisherman or Divers mural fragment at Tetitla
Fisherman or Divers At Tetitla
Murals like this one decorated the walls of over 2,000 apartment compounds throughout Teotihuacán. The murals were painted onto wet plaster, creating an extremely durable surface that preserved them for the millennia.

In addition to running Villa Las Campanas with her husband, Victor Manuel Reyes Contla, she is a mother, teacher, creativity coach, and guide into the transformational energies of the pyramids and into connection with the Divine Feminine.

Time only allowed us to stay in the area for 24 hours, but I was so moved by my experience that I want to return here to explore more deeply.

Mural fragment with single hand on display at the Museo Nacional de Antropologia in Mexico City
Mural Fragment Museo Nacional de Antropología, Mexico City

Still craving a bit more local history, we headed straight for the Museo Nacional de Antropología in Mexico City. We only scratched the surface, touring a few rooms in its massive collection before meeting up for lunch with blogger friend Brieuc-Martin Onraet, better known as Brian from Equinoxio. Brian’s tales have entertained me since The Captain and I were sailing in Australia. As soon as I mentioned to Brian that we’d be driving through Mexico City on this crazy road-trip, he and his wife, Amira, opened up their home and their hearts to us.  

With Brian and Amira in Tlalpan
Image Courtesy The Captain

We enjoyed a late lunch at Le Relais de Venise, L’Entrecote in tony Polanco, a cut above our usual street-side fare. Afterward, we returned to Museo Nacional de Antropología to have a coffee with Ken and his son Elan, friends of Fabio’s living in Mexico City.

Toltec Seashell Armor
Toltec Seashell Armor #wantone

In the evening, we headed out to Brian and Amira’s charming home in Tlalpan for a yummy dinner, easy-going conversation, a good night’s rest, and a berry and baguette filled breakfast. They invited us to stay on another day, but The Captain wanted to get back to Amandla to prepare for our upcoming voyage.

We said our good-byes and got back on the road to Chiapas.

Yagul Aerial Image
Yagul, also known as Pueblo Viejo (Old Village), was a city-state of the Zapotec civilization of pre-Columbian Mesoamerica. The Spanish relocated the population to Tlacolula where their descendants live today.

Luckily, that road led us back through Oaxaca for one more visit, and to the pre-Colombian sites of Yagul and Mitla for the first time. 

Mitla Rear
What makes Mitla unique is the elaborate and intricate mosaic fretwork and geometric designs that cover tombs, panels, friezes, and even entire walls. These mosaics are made with small, finely cut and polished stone pieces, fitted together without the use of mortar.
Mitla Front

I didn’t want to end this road trip, but when I smelled the ocean before it emerged on the other side of the Santa Elena Tunnel, I knew I was ready to set sail once again. 

We spent our final night on land in Salina Cruz at the elegant yet affordable Hotel Misión San José, dreaming of the sea.

View From Amandla’s Stern At Sunset
Santa Maria Replica ~ Marina Chiapas

Next Up – The Sail North

117 comments Deviations From Course: Sailing Homeward Part 2

Hi, Lisa – Once again your photography and your quest for life are absolutely breathtaking. I also just read your post on Sue’s site. So great to see you there.
Thank you for the wonderful updates. Stay well!

Thank you for your love, Donna, and for traveling with me for so many nautical miles. Amazing to think that we were sharing the same country just a few months ago…

There is no doubt that this virus changed our lives completely. But, in bad weather, good face.
The memories of your travels fill the empty spaces of the mind with satisfaction when we feel like prisoners in our own home. The photos invite us to dream and solar costs nothing.
I hope that you are very well and that soon you can raise your sails in search of the non-walked roads. And we can see your smile again that fills the entire horizon with indescribable joy.
A big hug
Manuel

Be still my heart. Your eloquence always manages to charm, Manuel. Thank you for your ear as I rambled about personal moments that seem forever ago now. We are blessed to be able to raise our sails in these inauspicious times, as port-to-port navigation is still allowed in Mexico. I am glad to have once again found an anchorage with the internet to be treated to your lovely words—Ahoy from Puerto Ballandra, Isla Carmen.

I have seen the images of the port where you are. It is a dream to look at that transparent blue water. It seems that your reflection in the sea is going to take the tide to my new imagination. And so I will see compensated the wait to receive your precious communications.
I’m glad you’re safe from mobility crises. You are in what you like to do the most. And that has to be enjoyed.
 Here in Chile, with the quarantine but it seems that in a few days the measures will be relaxed. In any case, I think it will not be the same. One has to have the idea that the change will last a long time until the blessed vaccine appears. Well, this is not worth talking about.
Things will get better when you send the photos of your trips and the places where you go.
A big kiss and a better week for you
Manuel

I am happy to know that you are safe in Chile and continuing to work your magic with words. I look forward to reading what the transparent blues of Isla Carmen inspire in your soul. I wish I could take a time-lapsed film of how the anchorage here changes color throughout the day. Last evening, the bay turned to gold as the sunset on the surrounding hills. My limited photography skills failed to capture its magnificence 🤗😘

I have images of the sea of ​​the island and surely, accompanied by your smile, I will shine my inspiration for you. Good that you are enjoying the sea of ​​colors. That makes me very happy.

Friends, great places, great laughs… and Equinoxio! Sounds like THE trip. I was meant to be meeting Brieuc when I planned a trip to Mexico City but it fell through… but great to see him there!
Looking forward to your next instalment, Lisa.

Fabrizio

I am looking forward to the day when you can make that trip to Mexico City, Fabrizio. Brian and Amira were A-MA-ZING hosts, and we will be going back for a visit when the doors open again. It is always a treat to meet blogging friends and to find them to be as delightful in person as they are on the page. Thank you as always for your visit here.

Once again a heady travel quest. My grounded-to-earth persona gets a boost reading your sailing/land adventures

You certainly gave my spirits a boost with your visit and persistent attempts to leave a comment. Thank you!

Hope you are safe wherever you are at present

We are blessed to be resting comfortably at anchor off Isla Carmen. We will sail slowly south in the coming days, back to Puerto Escondido to provision, and then set out once again to isolate in the islands. I hope you are findings ways to laugh and dream everyday.

Brought back memories of my time in Mexico, Oxaltuco, san Miguel del allende, puerta Vallarta. I always enjoy your posts. Donna Retirementreflections and i often talk about them when we talk to each other.

Ahoy from Isla Carmen, BCS, Ann. How lovely to be a topic of discussion between you and Donna. Delighted to evoke memories of your time in Mexico. I had no idea that you studied at Emily Carr University of Art and Design and the Instituto Allende in San Miguel De Allende until I came across your Art For Heart website. Bravo. BTW, how is your brother faring in CR or was he able to get back to Canada for the lockdown?.

Lisa, as I’ve been following your travels around the world, the one thing that jumps out at me is that you’ve gathered with friends at every step along the way. While your life could easily fill volumes with all your adventures, it’s the people you’ve drawn to you and included in your story that stands out to me. You and The Captain must be very special people indeed! ❤️

To be rich in friends is to be poor in nothing and you’ve just made me feel like the richest girl in the world. Move over Alice Walton 😉 All kidding aside, one of the hardest things about setting sail was saying goodbye to old friends. But an unanticipated benefit was meeting so many new ones along our way until we eventually came full circle back to old friends once again. I don’t know if we are special, but we are most certainly lucky. Ahoy from Isla Carmen

❤️

J.D. Riso says:

You are weathering this storm with your usual grace. I’m glad your mom is being watched over and is in good shape and that the Captain’s daughter emerged victorious. What a way to end your long voyage! I wish you continued good luck and serenity in Baja.

…and the long voyage is not over yet ;-). Thank you as always for your love and support, Julie. I hope your good fortune and bliss continue in the wilderness.

Lisa, you are always an inspiration! I am particularly taken with prehistoric details, the state of our oceans, and the joy that your discoveries bring.

Those prehistoric sights continue to beckon me in a way I had never anticipated, Diane. I hope to return to Teotihuacan as I think there is some truth waiting for me there. I am happy to report that the seas in Mexico are teeming with wildlife. We saw humpbacks as we sailed into Banderas Bay and passed a pod of 100+ dolphins when sailing from San Juanico to Isla Coronados. Honestly, there is no place I would rather be than on a sailboat upon the sea.

I hope you are keeping safe and well. I think of you often and am wondering if you would ever consider teaching your writing course online. I loved your book and want more.

Lisa so fabulous to read of your early explorations in Mexico because we are very eager to start discovering once the pandemic lifts and there are lots of good ideas and inspiration here. So thank you! Wonderful photos and interesting history.. so much culture and so much to discover. Can’t wait. I am going to head over and read you on Sue’s blog.

Much love your way and stay healthy and safe. Looking forward to our next reunion whenever it will be..!!
xoxo

Mexico is a place that one could explore for a lifetime and never get bored. So many sites I long to return to and so many yet to be discovered. I look forward to meeting you and Ben along the road or upon the sea when the doors open again. Thank you for following me over to Sue’s blog and for your love and good wishes.

Hi Lisa,
Once again, thanks for taking us with you! We are all quarantining. (Since March 13, 2020) Just today 5-2-20, some parks are opening up. It is been dreary; rain and cold, so it’s time for reading, cleaning out closets, and taking naps.

Looking at your gorgeous pictures, can I suggest a book that directly links to the areas you are highlighting? The Moor’s Account by Laila Lalami. It’s true story of a Spanish expedition (1527) through Florida, onward to what is believed to be Mexico. Of course the King of Spain was interested in gold, but that wasn’t to be. Most interesting is the account of the fist African on board: Estebanico.

Our wanderlust will almost certainly be curtailed this summer because of Covid. Probably days on the Jersey Shore. And that’s not too bad either.

Take care, and stay safe.

The McFadden’s

I adored the Moor’s Account. Read it while sailing from Australia to Indonesia. Your recommendation has encouraged me to read it once again. And thank you for your brilliant IG recommendation to read Ten Thousand Doors of January #lovedit.

Were you able to get some time in the parks on Sunday? Exploring the Jersey Shore sounds like a wonderful alternative for summer travel. Glad to know that you and Dan are safe and well in these unprecedented times.

Such a wonderful Mexican road trip, peppered with amazing sights and wonderful people encounters. So glad you got to have such a great time with your friends, just before the whole world changed. You pics of Tlaquepaque took us back to our road trip to Guadalajara, so many years ago when we were sailing. And now we can say we know a true comic book star 🙂 Hugs from John and me.

When I was a kid, my dream was to create a comic book series. Sadly, my pencil artistry never progressed beyond stick people, but being immortalized in Space Case Comic is a wonderful consolation :-). I am so grateful to have had this visit from this gang of friends. Who knows when I will see them next? Or you guys for that matter 😢

We WILL see each other again soon. Count on it!

And it will be grand!

Loved your entry for Travel Tales of Life, BTW!

😊🥰 Awwww, thank you! Loved yours as well.

I was directed over to Travel Tales via Liesbet’s blog – good to read the two of you there! This sounds quite an adventure, along with a wonderful friends’ reunion.

Delighted to be sharing a virtual anchorage with Liesbet over on Sue’s blog, but wish we were sharing a real one. I met Liesbet and Mark in The Gambier Islands in 2013 when they were still floating about. We’d planned to see each other again somewhere when I returned Stateside, but that will have to wait. Having my college friends visit Mexico was a real blessing as it may now be sometime before I see them again.

So many things having to wait! Hope all is still well with you.

Everytime I read about another Mexican city or town, I make a mental note to visit “one of these days.” I had never heard of Tlaquepaque before but it sounds like somewhere I would love to spend time. Your friend’s art is stunning. I’m glad that you were able to arrange a few meet-ups along the way… good friends feed our souls. Headed to Sue’s blog now. Hugs.

I am grateful for your visual stories of Mexico as they were the initial inspiration for my visit to this magical land. Hopefully, one day, we will tread/sail here together. When I was visiting with the artist Emily at Villa Las Campanas, I thought about arranging a meet up there with friends, virtual and actual, who I knew would enjoy Teotihuacan’s vibe. Of course, you were on the list.

Natalie says:

Hi Lisa, Once again it’s wonderful to receive your journey update, learn about your adventures, and see your stunning photos. I look forward to reading your next journey update. Hope all’s well with you. I stopped by Sue’s site earlier and left a comment. Thank you for sharing your story with us.

Always a treat to see your smiling face pop up on the blog, Natalie Thank you so much for your gracious feedback and for clicking through either Liesbet’s or my blog onward to Sue’s. I am in an anchorage without connection as I write this, but I will post this and be over for a visit just as soon as we sail past a cell tower.

Nice post sailor. Strange to see oneself in another blog. 😉you guys were so lucky to fit all that in before the sh.. hit the fan. Delighted to have you home and hope you will have more time on the next visit. Meantime…
Stay “home”, stay safe 😷🙏🏻💕

I hope to see you in future posts! It would be great to visit with you and Amira again. I am so grateful for all the experiences that we had pre-COVID and that ‘home’ is aboard Amandla in The Sea of Cortez. I wonder how are your children faring on the front-lines? Now that we have cell phone reception again will stop over to your pages to find out.

The MD and her husband are doing their job as best as they can. They see the numbers rising and the hospitals near collapse. They are taking every precaution in the book. We can only wait.
Stay safe.

lketchersid says:

Hi Lisa! You’ve given me more places in Mexico to visit. We loved Teotihuacan (our trip log is at https://www.duskbeforethedawn.net/2019/07/teotihuacan-mexico-city/) and your blog has renewed our desire to visit Oaxaca. Hopefully the pandemic will ease enough so that some travels can resume. Stay safe, happy sailing.

Lovely to meet you both here. We are fortunate to be able to continue our Mexico adventures by sea, but miss our overland travels very much, especially interactions with people. I look forward to touring the interior again through your Teotihuacan blog post. Thanks for stopping by and dropping a link. I hope that you are safe and well and can resume your travels soon.

lexklein says:

Great to read your update on Sue’s blog yesterday (even though I already knew everything!), and perhaps even more fun to go back and see exactly what you did on that road trip. I’m not sure I knew that you’d hit Tlaquepaque and Guanajuato, two awesome spots!

This overland adventure seems like a lifetime ago. I remember seeing signs for Guatemala as we were returning to Chiapas and trying to convince the Captain to keep driving so we could see Lexie and J.

Tlaquepaque and Guanajuato were remarkable indeed; I could have written an entire post either, but breezed past both in a crazed attempt to bring my blog into the present.

Thanks for coming along for the virtual ride. I hope that everything is going great with your little firelight E.

Pete says:

Guanajuato looks like a cool little spot! Thanks for sharing, Lisa.

Guanajuato was fantabulous and deserving of its blog post, but my mad rush to bring the blog up to The Sea of Cortez had me breeze right past the place here. I wish you and Nayoung were sailing with us here. Your lens would be on fire in this place!

Oh, Lisa, she who holds the secret of how to do a life right. <3 What an epic trip! With Equinoxio and all!! So great to see that you had fun together, and all other amazing sights and sounds of it. I'm also hoping that your mother continues to be well, and all the rest of you and your dear people. You will have to come to Italy too sooner or later… Much love!

Manja!!!! Thank you for savoring the moments with me virtually and for your good wishes for my mother and my people. I am looking forward to the day that we make that trip to Italy, and you, Marco, and Fonzie are on these pages. Ahoy from Honeymoon Cove where we are enjoying a few relaxing days sans internet. I will post this when we are back in cell range and come over to your place to say hello. I much appreciate the share!

Ahh, Honeymoon Cove sans internet!! I’m so glad to be on your pages. <3 All well!

Your time in Mexico was well spent with cherished friends and wonderful images, Lisa. It is at once a mysterious country overlain with daily strife and threats in its border towns. Your exquisite photo essay shows the heart and real soul of Mexico! I was so pleased to read your guest post along with Liesbet’s and Ingrids’ both whom I’ve spent time with IRL! Our world is forever changed as a result of COVID-19, but the resilience of human beings is stronger than ever. Safe travels my friend!

I look forward to the day when I am added to the category of bloggers you’ve met IRL. We’d hoped to come through Sacramento on our trip back east, but that meet-up will have to wait a while longer. I am grateful to remain in The Sea of Cortez. It is everything you promised. I am writing this in a secluded little anchorage called Honeymoon Cove and will send it as soon as we return to Puerto Escondido and cell phone service.

What a trip! So full of rich experiences. I can only imagine what a great time you had meeting with all your friends again. And with few words and wonderful photos you took me on a journey through my beloved Mexico. In Mexico City we went to the Museum of Mexican Folk Art, which is extraordinary, but missed the Anthropological Museum. Guess I’ll have to go back. I remember being awed by Teotihuacan, but knew nothing of the tunnel!
Stay safe. Hope all is well aboard Amandla, and that you’re allowed to remain in place until it’s safe to leave.
Alison

I was thrilled to learn of the tunnel from Emily and delighted by how the discoveries have influenced her work. When I was a kid, I dreamed of being part of an excavation team. While that is probably not in the cards for me, I am heartened to know that such things are still possible. Who knows what the future will bring. I am happy to report that things have improved for us greatly since we ventured into the Sea of Cortez. While our interactions with other people are still limited, we are being treated some of the most magnificent landscapes I have ever seen… like sailing in the Grand Canyon. I hope your travels bring you and Don back to Mexico when the doors open.

Britta says:

Always delighted to give you a little extra time and attention, Lisa. 🙂

I loved, loved, loved seeing your reunion with college friends! Your throwback pictures were delightful also. I’ve had a couple virtual happy hours with my college friends since the beginning of quarantine. They’re all in Minnesota, still, and it’s been so nice to catch up with them during COVID. I’m five years out from undergrad this year…who knows where the next few decades will take us! Seeing your pictures and reading your stories is a good reminder that there’s never a bad time to reconnect with old friends.

I loved seeing the rest of your photos as usual, too. I particularly enjoyed reading your New Years experience. Sounds like such fun! The history nut in me is drooling over your images of the historical sites. Gah they look fabulous!

Hope you are continuing to stay well and healthy! Will head over to Sue’s blog to read more. You know, I follow Travel Tales of Life on IG but am not subscribed to their blog. Hm.

Your visits always put a smile on my face, Britta. Thank you so much for all your love. I am so pleased to hear that you are enjoying happy hours with college friends virtually. I so look forward to when you are hanging out with them in person again. These are the friendships that last a lifetime. Hard to believe that I met the first one of these 40 years ago!!! Think of me when you have your 40th reunion with yours :-). Two grade-school friends were also planning to visit me in Mexico, but pandemics prohibited the meet-up. You’ve given me a great idea to reach out to them on Zoom. Thank you so much for road-tripping with me through Mexico and following me over to Sue’s blog. Hugs from Honeymoon Cover in the Sea of Cortez (no internet here, so will post this when we sail past a tower).

Lisa I felt as though I was traveling on your shoulder. Such joy in the meeting of old friends where one feels like no time has passed at all.As Peta mentioned in her comment, so many inspirational ideas for future exploring. Although we have been to Mexico many times, most of our experiences have been coastal.
Thank you kindly for linking back to our blog post. Your fascinating contribution and stunning photos a true gift.

I thank you so much for including my voice is your very compelling and supportive series, Sue, and for traveling with me overland (virtually) through Mexico. We are now getting to experience some of the fantastic coastal-world you’ve written about and am happy to report our post-pandemic situation is much improved since we ventured into The Sea Cortez. Ahoy from internet free Honeymoon Cove where we’ve spent the past few days hiking and exploring by dinghy. I will post this when we find a connection again.

Your time in Mexico City, Teotihuacan, and Oaxaca brings back such lovely memories of my own explorations there. Through your photos I taste these landscapes once again. Hope you are finding the strength to manage during this time. Sending love.

While I am dreaming of returning to Mexico’s inland-scapes, I am happy to report that we are finding peace and tranquility on her coast. No place I’d rather be than on a sailboat upon the sea. I hope that you are staying safe and sane in the present moment, and planning for the adventures tomorrow will bring. I apologize for my delayed response. We were unexpectedly offline for a few days and are just returning to an internet connection at Puerto Escondido. I will be by your pages for a visit shortly.

it’s a very beautiful travel!
bye,have a nice day

Grazie. Sending love from the sea.

Hi Lisa, this post is filled with culture and art, but what I noticed most is that it is really all about people and friendships. It is fortunate that you were able to connect with so many friends through this journey. I hope memories of the fun and laughter and camaraderie is sustaining you in these times of social distancing! So many of us are starting to miss being with other people.
Also there is this, which made my writer heart sigh…
“when I smelled the ocean before it emerged on the other side of the Santa Elena Tunnel, I knew I was ready to set sail once again.” And this one”, We spent our final night on land in Salina Cruz at the elegant yet affordable Hotel Misión San José, dreaming of the sea.” Your inner writer chick is alive and well.

Prior... says:

Michele – that was an awesome comment – 🙂

It was indeed!

The hardest thing about sailing away was having to say good-bye to family and friends. But an unanticipated perk of this whole adventure the great people I met along the way. I feel blessed that my college besties made the journey here before the pandemic took hold. It makes the delays in returning home less painful. And my inner writing chick appreciates your love. Hugs from Puerto Escondido.

Sheryl says:

Beautiful photos – I enjoyed being able to vicariously visit Mexico via this post.

Thank you for joining me on the road Sheryl and for your kind feedback on the images

Something I’ve wondered — had you planned to spend anywhere near this much time exploring Mexico? Deliberately staving off The End? Or has this marvellous adventure been the result of outside forces? Either way, it’s great to see so much of the country through your posts. 🙂

Outside forces shined brightly on us in Mexico. If it weren’t for the weather delays in Chiapas, we would have missed Mexico’s interior altogether. I am grateful for every moment of it. Thank you so much for sharing it with me virtually.

morishige says:

The first part of this post is so heart-warming. And I love the photo of Guanajuato. The town seems so packed but beautiful.

Thanks for the virtual tour, Lisa. Have a wonderful day and stay safe. 🙂

Thank you so much for hanging out with me here and for your kind feedback. Ahoy from Puerto Escondido!

morishige says:

You’re most welcome. Ahoy from Yogyakarta! 🙂

The artwork I saw briefly looked beautiful, Lisa. As are your many friends 🙂 🙂 Stay safe!

Memories of time spent with good friends are buoying my spirits during this time of isolation Jo. And Emily’s artwork is all that! I wish I had a wall to hang it on.

I love the pictures and the narrative is perfect….makes me feel like I am traveling with you! Thank you so much for sharing!

Thank you so much for joining me on the road Kirt and for the follow! Lovely to meet you through Sue’s pages.

And you also!! Love your travel tales!!

Oh Lisa! I can just imagine your disappointment with not being able to sail towards your friends – that darn weather/timeline thing when sailing, right? But hurrah for overland transportation – you met up with your friends (what an awesome bunch and so cool they all made it there and arranged the meet-up) and managed to see some more amazing sites along the way. Stunning photos as ever! You two are very resourceful and adventurous and fortunate to have so many friends all over the place! Hugs from MA!

The foul weather turned out to be a blessing in disguise. We would have never ventured inland otherwise. Thank you for the love here and on your pages. We miss you big time and wish you were sharing an anchorage with us. Maybe when this is all over, you will come join us for a sail in The Sea.

I could just feel your joy coming through when you spoke about being with your old friends.There is something extra special about the relationships that have endured since our youth even if there are long periods of not seeing one another.
Your road trip looks amazing. I’m in awe of Mexico’s richness; one could spend an entire life just exploring this country. I have mostly stuck to the coast and desperately need to expand my horizons.
A few years ago, we had a half-day layover in Mexico City and charged to the Museum of Anthropology—I know what you mean about just scratching the surface.
So cool too that you met up with a blogger friend. I remember how thrilling it was to meet Ben and Peta, and Alison and Don. Hopefully you guys one of these day!
Take care Lisa!

OMG, The Sea of Cortez is everything you promised and then some. The seascapes are amazing and we are managing to get a bit of time off the boat in the more remote, unpopulated anchorages. Can’t think of anyplace I’d rather be isolating.

I am so grateful that my friends made the trip to Mexico, especially given our delay in returning homeward. And the blogger friendships forged around the globe have been an unexpected benefit of throwing off the dock lines. I look forward to the day I add you to the list of bloggers I’ve met IRL

I do hope the doors open soon so that you can make your way to Mexico’s interior. I know you had to delay plans for a trip to Chiapas (and am still routing for a January visit).

Hugs from Puerto Escondido

I’m so glad that you’ve been enjoying the Sea of Cortez. It is a special place. I’m hoping that Chiapas in January will be a go; you’ve got me very excited about this.
Hugs back from Vancouver.

Lisa, I loved your post on Travel Tales of Life. Your blog is full of exciting adventures. What a fabulous reunion with old friends you had. Great photos and fantastic writing. I will subscribe to follow your adventures.

Thank you so much for your lovely feedback on this post and on my contribution to Sue’s wonderful series. Greatly appreciate the follow and am enjoying being part of your adventures at home and away.

Prior... says:

Oh I love being part of your adventures, Lisa
🙂

Delighted to have you along on the journey, Yvette!

Prior... says:

PS I also love that photo of you with Brian and Amira

Thank you, Yvette. They were gracious hosts and lots of fun to hang out with.

Hi Lisa, I thoroughly enjoyed your post. Your photos and stories about your treasured friends is a reminder how closely we need to hold onto those special memories. I smiled reading it! And your adventures through such culturally rich places on your journey through Mexico is a delight to read and also to see your photos.

Awwww, thank you for all the love, Jane. Good memories will see us through until we can all be together again. Ahoy from The Sea of Cortez.

Hi Lisa, It is hard to believe the dawn of the global pandemic was only about two months ago. Life on our planet has changed significantly since then.

Powerful statement, “I wouldn’t have survived my twenties without them.” The priceless gift of good friends. Great how you have the before and now photos to share! Many laughs makes for a great get-together.

Fascinating on the comic. Fun! I immediately knew it was you on the bottom middle. The resemblance is uncanny.

The tunnels through the town are unique and interesting. First time I have heard of this.

I get it, on the smell of the ocean, even from a distance.

I loved everything about this post! I did pour myself a glass of wine tonight and sat down to read your post, Lisa. I always know I am in for a treat. Now, I will head to Sue’s site and read more.🙂

I always appreciate your thoughtful feedback, Erica. I thank you for such detailed read of this post and visit to Sue’s site. I’ll join you in that glass of wine the next time I am treated to one of your posts. I saw you today on IG with your beautiful girls and delighted in your grandchildren on your blog a few days earlier. I so look forward to the day that I see you in their company again. Happy Mothers Day to you from Puerto Escondido.

What a wonderful read and eventful road trip!
Catching up with so many friends again and meeting Brian sounded like a fabulous experience. Regardless of lines, sags, and aches, old friends are eternally young and the connection never fades.

Awwww, thank you for coming along for the ride Nilla. The visits with old friends and meet up with Brian and Amira mean even more now that we are spending an unanticipated period sailing alone again. But the good news is that we’ve just met up with some friends of The Captain’s that he last saw in Colombia in 2010. We’ll buddy boat with them from tomorrow to check out a hurricane hole 200 nm north of here. Initially, there will be no potlucks or sundowners, but we can share an anchorage and catch up on the VHF.

Hope you guys stay safe.
Sounds like a lovely time despite lockdown/isolation…think it’s time to buy an island! 😉

Awesome that you’re in a cartoon! “Talks of starting bands and returning to the stage”, that’s my kind of talk. 😀

😊I always wanted to be a cartoonist. Being memorialized in ink is the next best thing. I am delighted that you decided to return to the stage. Your creations are on fire #sogood

Hi Lisa, Once again and always, your stories, especially your photographs always amaze me. I am glad you are safe from the crazy. Keep safe.
Love Eva.

Always a delight to see your smiling face here and on IG, Eva! Thank you so much for your visit and kind feedback. I hope you are managing to keep safe and sane in the madness. Hugs from La Paz.

Sartenada says:

Hello.

Excellent post. I love it and its beautiful photos. Thank you. Last photo captured my attention, because I love tall ships. in 2013 Mexican tall ship called Cuauhtémoc, visited Helsinki. I give here the link, if you are interested to see i:

Tall Ships in Helsinki

Have a good day!

Thank you very much for your visit and delight in the photos. I adore Tall Ships and enjoyed your post.

I somehow missed this post, Lisa. I loved seeing the happy, smiley photos of you and your many friends. What fun it must have been sharing tales of all your adventures. Mexico looks like a wonderful country, full of interesting culture and colourful artworks. Your sunset photo is quite breathtaking. Good luck to you and the Captain wherever you may be heading at the moment. xxx

Thank you for you visit and kind words on the post, Sylvia. Your well wishes for the Captain are especially welcome right now. We were sailing in the central Sea of Cortez when the Captain developed an intestinal issue. We sailed back to La Paz for medical treatment and he is on the mend.

Oh, I’m sorry to read about the Captain’s medical problem. So happy he got treatment and is now on the mend. Hugs and best wishes to you both. 🤗😘

I greatly appreciate your good wishes. Thank you.

Bama says:

There are so many things I really enjoyed about this post. First, that warm feeling of reconnecting with your old friends, then the picturesque town of Guanajuato, the brilliant Space Case Comic and the beautiful artworks by Emily, and of course, the magnificent pyramids of Teotihuacán — the latter are something I’ve been dreaming of seeing for a long time. Then, when I thought your trip couldn’t get better than that, you took us to Yagul and Mitla. They look so fascinating, and with those ornate friezes, Mitla really caught my attention. It’s been a delight following your trip across Mexico, Lisa.

I profusely apologize for my delayed response to your very welcome comment. We’ve been weathering a significant medical storm here in La Paz, Mexico, and are only now catching our breath. I feel so grateful for all of the memories that we were able to create in our early days in Mexico. They’ve buoyed our spirits now. And I am thankful for your lovely feedback on all the art (Emily’s, the Space Case Comic Team, and the Mesoamerican masters).
I look forward to seeing your lens here someday. Mexico is full of delightful surprises that you will cherish for years to come.

Joe says:

Wonderful!!!!

Ahoy, you! Thank you so much for coming through to the blog. Sorry for my very delayed response to your comment. We’ve been experiencing a boatload of medical mayhem south of the border, and I am only now just catching my breath from the whole episode. I hope you are doing great, making lots of magic, and keeping your girls happy.

MythRider says:

I almost forgot to read this post. I remember seeing the email and meant to get back to it, but . . .
I’ve been wondering if you’d made it home as of yet. I can’t imagine safely going around the world, then learn you can’t go home.
But what a trip. And what a great ending, your long time friends joining you. You have been blessed with all you’ve accomplished and have seen.
If you decided to write a book, you already have he first draft written.
This has been a fun read. Thanks.

Hi Phyllis! Apologies for my delayed response. We’ve been dealing with some medical madness, and I am only now getting my head above water. Thank you so much for your visit. I am grateful to be reminded of all of the wonderful times that proceeded (and will follow) the current moment. We are back in La Paz, Mexico. We’d been monitoring the COVID-19 situation in the US and were making our way north to the border very slowly when the Captain faced a medical emergency that had us return here for treatment. The good news is that he is on the mend and I look forward to having him back on the helm soon.

MythRider says:

Scary time. So glad he will be alright. Praise God it didn’t happen at sea.

Roger that! We were very fortunate not to be on an ocean passage.

Lorena says:

There IS no doubt you are an extrsordinary human being.
I am só very Glad I had a chance to meet you and ser my friend Fábio Just before the biggest storm you had to face.
Love
Lorena

AWwwww. Thank you for your love, Lorena, and for opening up your heart and home to me when we were sailing in Brazil. I look forward to seeing you again somewhere someday. Fabio is improving exponentially now. Mentally, he is ready to go back to the boat, but physically, he needs another week on land. Keep safe and well. And Fabio tells me you’ve reposted this on Facebook #grateful 🙏

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