Olinda: To Carnival Or Not to Carnival

After 13 months of ‘full-on awesome’, sailing 11,853.7 nautical miles across two oceans, and visiting 13 countries along our way, we needed a break.  We’d arrived in Brazil but the blog was still in South Africa, waiting patiently to share tales of ghostly towns, desert expanses, elephant parades, and whale shark kisses.

Luckily, we’d moored at Marina Jacaré Village; comfortable enough with access to good internet, provisions, talented tradesmen to help The Captain with the inevitable list repairs, and little nearby to inspire exploration …or maybe I was just too tired to look for it.

We unpacked the air-conditioning unit that had been stowed safely on the bow before departing Thailand, hoping it would provide relief from the stifling heat and abundance of mosquitoes. Having crashed through many a wave en route, we were pleasantly surprised when The Captain powered up the box and cool air emerged.  With the exception of troubleshooting a few urgent repairs and replenishing our stores, The Captain and I remained shut inside Amandla doing little for the next week.

We finally emerged from the boat to accept a generous invitation to visit The Captain’s friend Lorena at her beachfront Pousada Maleleo in Porto de Galinhas; a 3.5 hours drive south from Jacaré. Relax, refresh, and renew were the only items on the agenda.  And that is exactly what we did.

At last, two weeks after arriving in Brazil, I was feeling reenergized.

Perhaps that is why I connected immediately with our next destination, Olinda. Had we come during Carnival, we would have found the streets filled with revelers.

Midnight Man would have been leading a parade of Giant Dolls (Bonecos Gigantes) through the streets to the sounds of Frevo Musica, a unique mix of Brazilian Indian and Africa Maracatu beats.

But the Carnival crowds were long gone by the time of our arrival, and we had this beautifully preserved colonial city all to ourselves.

Only a smattering of tourists visit this UNESCO World Heritage site during the off-season, most of them Brazilian.

We found refuge at the delightful Pousada Convento da Conceição. Erected in 1585, this haven is centrally located at the top of the historic section of Olinda with a perfect amount of privacy and quiet.

Once a retreat for abandoned women and later home to a reclusive order of nuns, The Dorthea Sisters of the Conception have opened their doors to welcome wayfaring strangers seeking affordable, minimalist comfort. 

Loved it so much, I returned a month later with our good friends Jean-Pierre and Dana of SY Vanille.

Each morning, I’d start off drinking-in a bird’s eye view of Olinda, with its terracotta roofs framed in greenery, eventually giving way to the beaches and city spires of nearby Recife.

From there, I’d wander down the very steep Ladeira da Misericórdia, (Slope of Mercy) and then lose myself exploring Olinda’s expansive network of cobblestone streets and alleyways.

I was treated to colorful dwellings occupied by families who have resided here for generations, small locally owned shops, and studios with artists actively creating. 

Unspoiled by mass tourism, the population remains accessible and easy to engage in conversation.    

Realtors have yet to bid-up the price of properties and fill them with high-priced, flavorless restaurants and curio shops. 

Honestly, in the off-season, Olinda felt like a sleepy hamlet waiting to be discovered.

Hopefully, you’ll find your way here before the masses do.

And although the revelers had long since departed Olinda for the year, the spirit of Carnival could be found everywhere.

Giant Dolls remained on display in museums, libraries, and studios.

Musicians were in the streets and at school preparing for the 2020 festivities.

Vibrant street art recalled Carnival’s pageantry …

…and its promise to keep alive brutally silenced voices.

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There are a few special places calling me to return when we drop the hook or take that victory lap.

Strange lands that had quickly turned into old stomping grounds such as Penang, Hanoi or Nosy Be.  Locations where I’d like to linger for a year or two.

Olinda is one of those places; a travel destination where the locals made me feel at home.

Sadly, there was no time for a third visit to Olinda this time around. The Captain successfully worked through the lengthy list of boat repairs, I managed to write and share three stories from our Southern Africa Road Trip, and then it was time to sail onward. We gave the 220-volt air-conditioner to appreciative friends who’d remained behind at Marina Jacaré Village. We had no need for it as we were heading to 110-volt Colombia via French Guiana, Grenada, Bonaire, and Curaçao.

We are currently on standby in Curçao waiting for favorable weather to continue onward to Colombia. Lucky us, our friends John and Susan from Latitude Adjustment blog were here on holiday and joined us for supper aboard Amandla.

We look forward to catching up with them again (and taking their picture 😉 ) when we arrive in their adopted home, Colombia.

Once we are underway, I’ll be sending daily updates from our satellite phone. Follow us using our position updates on Farkwar and sea tweets on Twitter. Sail along with us, won’t you?