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Kiss And Tell Saint Helena

Panorama of whale shark taken from side in Saint Helena

What is it like to be kissed by a whale shark? As with any first kiss, once you get over the initial shock, the experience leaves you wanting for more.

After tiring myself out swimming vigorously in my quest to photograph the five whale sharks we’d spotted, I started to treading water in place to catch my breath. That is when these curious, ginormous creatures started heading my way, apparently preferring to be the pursuer rather than the pursued. 

Lisa Dorenfest snorkeling with Whale Shark in St Helena
Image Courtesy The Captain

Whale sharks are harmless despite their name and their size; the largest confirmed individual had a length of 12.65 meters/41.50 ft and a weight of more than 21.5 metric tons/47,000 lbs. They have a large mouth but a narrow throat, smaller than a fist, preferring a diet of plankton to the flesh.

Video Courtesy Thom D’Arcy

Our knowledgeable guides Craig and Keith from Dive St. Helena introduced us to this pod, having brought us to a feeding area on the northern cape by powering through crashing waves for forty minutes; a surprisingly comfortable journey in their large, rigid keel dinghy.

Close up of Whale Shark swimming into frame
Image Courtesy The Captain

Whale sharks frequent St Helena’s waters from November of any given year, and general disappear April/June, peaking in Jan/Feb.  Unlike my traumatizing whale shark experience in The Maldives, this one was dreamlike given St Helana’s strict rules about interacting with whale sharks ….

Whale shark overlaid with text of guidelines for snorkeling with them

 …and few tourists; it’s remote location and limited options to access keeping the masses away.

Saint Helena Island taken from sea

An uninhabited island discovered in 1502 by Portuguese admiral Joao ad Nova, St. Helena grew over time as a stopover for ships traveling the world, becoming home to soldiers, refugees, freed slaves, and prisoners of war. But with the opening of the Suez Canal in 1869, its popularity as a port soon diminished.

Panoramic view of colorful Jamestown St Helena with sea in backgrund
Jamestown, St. Helena

Until October 2017, most tourists found their way here via the RMS St. Helena, a romantic 6 days passage (one-way) from Cape Town.

Jamestown Saint Helena street with church and immigration and police office
Jamestown Streets

‘The age of the airplane bypassed St. Helena because it offered no flat land for a runway and was consistently buffeted by treacherous winds sweeping off the water…

Vintage Longwood Hardware Storefront Saint Helena

But in the hope of stoking the tourist trade, the British spent almost $400 million to fill in the valley with some 800 million pounds of dirt and rock to solve the runway problem and build an airport…

Governors House In Saint Helena under blue skies
Governors House

The expense did nothing to mitigate the winds. Today, only a special, stripped-down Embraer 190 jet with the best pilots in the world can stick the landing”

View of St Helena Airport Runway
St. Helena Airport runway in the distance

The six-hour flight to Jo’burg departs each Tuesday and Saturday, weather permitting.  In 2018, the airport welcomed 991 non-Saint Helenian tourists.

Anchorage at sunset Jamestown St Helena

We reached St. Helena’s shores the old-fashioned way, under sail, traveling 1900 nautical miles from Cape Town via Lüderitz, the halfway point on our trans-Atlantic passage to Brazil. (I’d come full-circle en route, sailing across my 360th degree of longitude at 04° 53.42 E.)  

St. Helena’s most famous resident, Napoleon Bonaparte was top of mind as we approached this ‘lonely black rock’ from the sea, imagining his first impressions after a 2+ months voyage from Plymouth in 1815, defeated and exiled for the remainder of his life.  The sounds of waves crashing against a barren, craggy coast with squawking birds circling an undulating anchorage lent to the sense of hellish desolation. He only spent one night in Jamestown, the coastal Capital, before heading inland to live amongst gentler, verdant backdrops.

Longwood House Saint Helena home of Napoleon with gardens in front
Longwood House

It is here at Longwood House where he wrote his best-selling memoirs ‘Memorial de Sainte Hélêne’. ‘

Panoramic view of Stiches Ride under blue skies in Saint Helena

During his time on Saint Helena, The Emperor of France would visit every corner of the island, sometimes on foot, at other times on horseback, selecting the picturesque Sane Valley for his posthumous entombment.

Verdant pathway to Napoleon's Tomb in Saint Helena

In1840, nineteen years after his death, his remains were exhumed and returned to Paris with full honors.  

  • Entry gate to Napoleon's Tomb in Saint Helena with tourist entering
  • Directional sign pointing toward Napoleon's Tomb with rich foliage in background
  • Birds-eye view of Napoleons Tomb on Saint Helena

Unlike Napoleon, I enjoyed our time wandering colonial Jamestown as much as our time spent inland.

St Helena Arch

We’d picked up one of the twenty-three steadfast moorings supplied by the Port Authority for a nominal fee and reached the shore using the town ferry.

White Harbour Master Building Framed In Canons Saint Helena
Port Captain

Disembarkation was an adventure in itself, needing to be timed with the rising surge and executed quickly with a leap of faith onto a concrete platform, grabbing hold of a rope or hand offered by locals ashore.

Saint Helena Ferry with passengers watching approach

The locals or Saints as they are called are a friendly, colorful lot with many stories to tell. While the Queen’s English is spoken here, a local dialect sounding more like a mix of Downeast Maine lobsterman and seafarer-Pidgin dominates. 

Street photograph of man feeding birds from white windowsill in Saint Helena

The Consulate Hotel was ‘the meeting place’ for Saints, guests, visiting sailors, and even for tourists staying at other accommodations.

Close up of balcony with man and Napoleon Statue

It may have been the cakes and coffee (or something stronger when the bar opens at 17h00) that attracted the diverse clientele but I think it was more likely the innkeeper, Hazel Wilmot with her finger on the pulse of the island and the comfortable surrounds decorated in all things Napoleon that made the place feel so inviting.

Interior of Consulate Hotel in St. Helena facing mirrored coffee bar

We ended up taking a few days of relaxing shore leave here during a particularly rolling period in the anchorage, sleeping in a stable bed and delighting in hot showers and the hearty breakfast served on English ceramic dishes each morning.    

Jacobs Ladder taken from base looking upward in Saint Helena

A Jamestown highlight for me was an ascent up the 699 steps of Jacobs Ladder to the fort at Ladder Hill. Originally built as a tramway in 1831 to haul manure out of Jamestown for use by inland farmers, it eventually gave way to regime changes, disuse, fire, and insects.

Panoramic view of Jamestown with sea and Jacobs Ladder steps in foreground
The View Is The Reward

The step remained after the incline was dismantled in 1871. Today it is either ‘an exhilarating climb’ (my perspective) or ‘699 steps of torment’ (The Captain’s view which kept him at sea level).

Lisa Dorenfest Ascending Jacobs Ladder
Image Courtesy Kim Maclean

Unlike Napoleon, we were free to leave St. Helena at the time of our choosing.  We’d been buddy boating with three other vessels since Cape Town and when they lifted anchor, we decided to continue with them.

In hindsight, I wish we’d stayed longer to snorkel one or more of the numerous wrecks, to crisscross the island on foot along St Helena’s many scenic trails, and/or to swim with the whale sharks again; two days after our departure two friends that had remained here swam with twenty whale sharks.

Fairyland Trail Panoramic View Saint Helena
Trail To Fairyland

I wonder whether Napoleon would have liked St Helena any better if he’d swum with the whale sharks. One kiss from them and his quest for world domination might have faded away; the glory of the present moment superseding that of past victories or at least softening the blow of unending internment.


Next up: Olinda, Devil’s Island, and the Caribbean Sea ⛵️

119 comments Kiss And Tell Saint Helena

Oooo, what a view! And the kiss! The shark seems as if it approached you and then remembered: “Ah right… my throat is too small!” 😀 I wish you happy Caribbean and thank you for climbing up there for this view!

Thank you so much for reading me and for the share on Twitter. Honestly, after the St. Helena adventures, Grenada has been a bit of a letdown. Perhaps it is the boat work and ‘spring cleaning’ that awaits in every port or maybe it is the proximity to home #toocloseforcomfort #wanttokeepgoing

What a place, Lisa! And how you breathtakingly you bring it to life. Whale sharks to fallen emperors and those 699 steps – straight out of a novel.

St. Helena packs quite a punch for such a small little island. Delighted that you found my reportage breathtaking. Thank you for voyaging here with me

Always my pleasure.

Isn’t that the way of life? When you stop pursuing, the good things seem to come to you 🙂 That must have been quite the experience!

I had trouble placing St Helena until you mentioned Napoleon. It sounds like a wonderful place rather untouched by the madness of rampant tourism. Your boat takes you to the most interesting place.

The picture that I found most striking was of Jamestown nestled tightly between the 2 mountains. What a view!!

Ahoy from Grenada Joanne. Thank you for putting a smile on my face with your visit and thoughtful feedback. Just what I needed as I find myself suffering from a bit of culture shock now sailing closer to home. Am hoping that it is only temporary and that six years of cruising full-time hasn’t ruined me 😳

I too find that happens when I travel. Sometimes the difference from where you were to where you are is too great and the transition feels a bit rocky.

I’m guessing that 6 years of being a nomad has likely changed you in ways you’re only beginning to grasp 🙂

Appreciate your empathetic ear. I am trying to look at the reentry as an ‘adventure’ to manage the transition back to the ‘everyday world’

I like your approach! It is true … everything is an adventure if we choose to make it so 🙂

What extraordinary experiences you’re amassing! You’re going to be the most interesting, exotic, cool aunt ever!

😊🙏Apparently that ‘coolest Aunt’ fan club is already forming. One of my nieces is coming for a visit to Colombia in August. Can’t wait to have her onboard. Now if only I could figure out how to get The Captain to agree to a visit from my nephews Stanley and Ollie 🐶🐶. Ahoy from Grenada!

Oh how fun that your niece is coming! You realise Stanley and Ollie can’t come without a chaperone 🙂

😆chaperones welcome

So glad you’ve made it to St Helena. We tried to get there years ago when a dear friend was the Queen’s Governor there. Is your next stop Tristan de Cunha?

Wow! That is seriously cool. Would have loved to have an invitation to that gorgeous Governors House. I hope you find your way to St. Helena one day. It is a pretty special place.

We are in Grenada now having sailed here from St Helena via Brazil and Iles du Salut in French Guiana. Sadly we were unable to stop at Tristan de Cunha. Next time around.

I can’t imagine what that must have been like, but it is fun trying to imagine.

Humbling. Exhilarating. Zen. I hope you find your way into the water with a whale shark in the near future.

I would love that.

I know I would love it.

Lisa those first two photographs are absolutely incredible! Wow! The captain did well. The videos is amazing as well. Good to know these giants are so gentle, or it might have been a scary experience.

Fascinating for Ben as a Frenchman hearing about the current St Helena. A location drummed into every French boy’s history books, but of course without any understanding of what St Helena might be in fact. Two immediate thoughts come to mind… One, why would they stick Napoleon as far as Cape Town? Surely they had closer islands to exile him to? And secondly, I am wondering what house/building/prison he might have lived in. Is that something that one can visit there?

That airport does not sound like a place that anyone would choose to land. This is where arriving the old fashioned way sure sounds preferable.

Terrific post!

Peta & Ben

Ahoy from Grenada Peta and Ben! Delighted to have you traveling by my side (virtually) in St. Helena. This place could seriously benefit from Ben’s logistics insights.

To answer your thoughtful questions on the Napoleon story …The predominance of Napoleon’s exile was spent at Longwood House with the first two months spent at ‘The Briars’ with a local family. St Helena was chosen for the exile given its remote location to make ensure Napoleon remained inaccessible to his many followers. There was a wonderful article about Napoleon in St Helena published in Smithsonian Magazine in April right after our visit there that you might enjoy.

I hope that you have an opportunity to walk Napoleon’s trails or swim with the whale sharks here someday (am certain you both could find a crew position with a yacht crossing from SA if you don’t want to brave the flight ;-). The whale shark experience was pure bliss for me. Fabio’s photographs of ‘The Kiss’ and the whale shark’s face are priceless treasures as is Thom’s video. Thank you for your lovely compliments on each.

Andrea Miller says:

Wow, wow, wow. Watching your video I felt like I was right there with you. The sharks are such beautiful gentle giants. I loved learning about St. Helena through your eyes…there is always more to learn about this beautiful place that we call home. Thank you for sharing your journey.

Ahoy from Grenada Andrea! Thank you so much for sailing along with us to ST. Helena and for your lovely feedback. Glad you enjoyed the virtual swim with the whale sharks via Thom’s video; footage that I will most certainly treasure always.

Margo says:

What a phenomenal experience. Gorgeous creatures!! Fantastic video and photos. Thanks for sharing.

Thank you for your very kind comment, Margo. Wish you and Steve could have been there with us. My favorite image is Fabio’s close-up of the Whale Shark’s handsome face. It is difficult to get him to take out the camera most days but whenever he does, he manages to create magic. Ahoy from Grenda Margo #almosthome #comevisit

Fascinating report! Very cool experience for sure. Don’t blame you for staying in the hotel to avoid the rolly anchorage!

I’ve been in more challenging anchorages but Jamestown was definitely a tough one. Apparently, we were there at the worst time of the year. Friends who came later said the anchorage was flat calm … although they missed the whale sharks who’d swum away with the swell. The rolling was more than worth tolerating for the whale shark experience. And the hotel was definitely a welcome break. Ahoy from Grenada. So excited to meet you both in Colombia later this year.

Kissing a whale shark? I can’t even imagine! That would have taken a bit of courage. I did know anything about St. Helena other than Bonaparte exiled there. It looks like an interesting place with a lot to explore off the beaten path. The sign post pointing to Fairyland is just too perfect! Who wouldn’t want to follow that sign?

Even though I’d read in advance that whale sharks were docile creatures, when that first one came swimming my way, I admit feeling a bit overwhelmed. He was HUGE but thankfully, also as gentle as advertised. Loved that Fairyland sign and longed to skip down that trail but sadly, we left before I could do so. Ahoy from Grenada. Surreal to be in the USA’s backyard #almosthome

J.D. Riso says:

This is my kind of place…so off the beaten path and mult-faceted. Those creatures are so intimidating and magnificent. The various influences and overlapping layers of history are fascinating. I can see why you wish you’d lingered a little longer. It’s one of those places that you rarely make it back to. Good to hear from you, as always, my friend.

I think that the only thing I will regret at the end of this circumnavigation is that I didn’t linger in several places longer. While I did manage to slow myself down a lot (the oringal plan was 2 years) there are so many places I’ve yet to visit and so many others I long to return to #canyousayvictorylap! I’ve been thinking about your return from YEARS on the road and wonder if I will ever get to a point where my original sacred space calls me ‘home’. Always a pleasure to see you here Julie. Thank you for your thoughtful comment

J.D. Riso says:

You’re so welcome, Lisa. It’s not so much that I call my original sacred space home, but that I now carry home inside me. If I were to take off again- which is always a possibility. I’m open to anything- I’d feel at home no matter where I find myself.

I’ve always said that I love the sailing life because ‘home is where the anchor drops’ but to feel at home ‘whereever’ (boat or no boat) as you now is a very good place to be in this life.

Such a beautiful place, Lisa and of course, your photos are incredible and make me happy! I adore your whale shark encounter! I had a similar experience, although I didn’t kiss one. Like you, I had three completely surround me and they just floated along for a few moments. If I go back to La Paz, Mexico, we’ll do the excursion again but I will have a better camera for underwater photography. Thanks for the uplifting update!

I loved that post when I happened upon it in 2017 and think it is something you should consider republishing (or relinking to again) #wisdom
#swimslowly I can not wait to sail La Paz someday #onthelist. Maybe I’ll get lucky and we can swim with the whale sharks there together!. Thank you so much for your visit and positive feedback on the post

That would be amazing, Lisa! Thank you for your encouraging words about the post!

MythRider says:

Now I have another place to add to my bucket list. St Helena not as sure about the whales. That’s a definite maybe.

I do hope your definite maybe turns into an affirmative yes. You won’t regret it.

MythRider says:

The desire is there, I’m waiting on the fiances.

Finances. The dream kiiler. May exponential books sales fill your coffers.

MythRider says:

I’ll take that, thank you. ;0)

Really interesting stop on your journey.

Thank you! I am looking forward to the day I can add Hornby Island to my list of ports

I’ve seen pictures of St Helena before, but yo’ve rally brought it to life for me.

Awww 😊you are lovely to say so Anabel. It’s funny …some of the architecture surrounding the marketplace in your beloved Haltwhistle reminds me of that in Jamestown. Ahoy from Grenada.

Ahoy! Looking forward to hearing about Grenada.

Norm 2.0 says:

What an amazing set of shots with the whale sharks. Humbling stuff. I can only imagine the emotions… 🙂

Delighted that you enjoyed the whale shark images, Norm. Humbling indeed. I hope you have a whale shark kiss in your future.

Wow, wow, wow! Your photos are breathtaking, Lisa. Do I see a hint of a rainbow in one of the photos, or possibly how the light hits the rock area. A great first paragraph. Although, I can’t even remember my first kiss (or my last:) a long term marriage:). I did not know anything about whale sharks until now. Interesting story about building the airport, yet Mother Nature intervenes. A very descriptive, informative and fun read:) Erica

Good eye!. We were treated to a sunset rainbow in the anchorage. It was a consolation for missing another rainbow shot earlier in the day as we rushed to shore for an important errand; that one looked as if it was leading to a pot of gold on the other side of the island. Thank you for such supportive feedback on the post. Wishing you and your husband a million more kisses to come.

I am delighted to learn about a place I had never heard of (I guess I wasn’t paying attention in history class) and slightly irked that my geographic knowledge failed me. First thing I did after reading your post was look up Saint Helena on Google Maps. Wow is it remote!
I am envious of your whale shark experience and happy about the strict rules around interacting with these amazing creatures. Your photos and video are spectacular. We had a wonderful time snorkelling with whale shark in La Paz Bay, Mexico under the guidance of a local marine biology institute who also had very strict rules. Sadly, I have no photo evidence!
Saint Helena looks like an awesome place. That narrow strip of development that is Jamestown is really spectacular. I would have hiked up those steps too!

Travel has brought history alive for me. I reread history books with new appreciation after visiting a country. The best gift a parent can give a child is the gift of travel.

I so hope we sail into La Paz someday, not only to have another swim with the whale sharks but also to drink in all that beauty on display in your posts. You are blessed to have swum with the whale sharks sans tourists. How were you able to arrange a tour with Maritza, the local marine biologist?

Thank you for all the love on the whale shark images. Hugs from Grenada

I totally agree with you. I’m so grateful to my parents for schlepping us all over the place. I think my son appreciates our family trips too (perhaps one too many crazy market excursions).
Our whale shark tour was arranged through the folks we did our kayak trip with—ROW Adventures. They have a relationship with the the marine institute in La Paz.
Enjoy Grenada!

😄I am sure your son is very grateful for all the ‘crazy’. Thank you so much on the intelligence on ROW Adventures.

lexklein says:

This was FAR more intriguing than I ever would have expected! Now I’m bummed because the flight in seems super scary, and what are my chances of ever getting in by boat? I knew I should have stuck around on Amandla longer! You know I would have hiked those steps with you, and the reward of that little gash of a town is a great prize. (Nice skort, by the way. 🙂 I love how that baby has traveled!) Super fun post, and I must say you are getting pretty darn good at landscapes these days!

We’d be glad to take you to St. Helena on our second go around. Personally, I think you are ready for an off-shore passage. Maybe I can convince you to do a test run on the 100 nm passage from San Blas to Shelter Bay 😉

I adore my ‘victory skort’. It will look especially lovely accented with a glass of champagne when I cross my outbound wake at Shelter Bay in Panama. i hope you will join me there.

Thanks for the love on the landscape images.

lexklein says:

Nooooo, no open seas for this chicken!

😄If you can fly into Paro, you can fly into St. Helena …or spend a night on the open ocean. Fabio says we could do two day hops from San Blas to Shelter Bay via Linton f you want to sail along for the big finish. Otherwise, we can just luxuriate in the San Blas together beforehand, always in sight of land.

Lisa we have gone swimming with whale sharks on two occasions and both extraordinary life experiences. The photo the Captain took is absolutely astounding. Wonderful to be with these gentle giants with very few others.

Just had a wonderful swim through your posts. You’ve got us both excited to sail into La Paz on our #victorylap when we take one. The Captain is chuffed with your compliment on his whale shark image. It is difficult to get him to bring out the camera but magic is created whenever he does. Precious keepsakes.

Fabulous post. I hardly know where to start except to say your entire life is magic! Even just being in St Helena, and then kissing whale sharks. What a fascinating place. I love the photo of the man with the pigeons, and I’d have been with you climbing those stairs.
Alison

Thank you for such kind feedback Alison. I am a lucky girl indeed. As much as I enjoy photographing wildlife, seascapes and landscapes, people remain my favorite subjects. The citizens of St. Helena were so approachable and willing to be photographed. A camera is a wonderful tool to forge connections. Of all the memories I have from St. Helena, this moment with with the man and the pigeons is my favorite. Just don’t let my whale shark know. I don’t want to make him jealous.

Absolutely extraordinary, your circumnavigating journey, Lisa. I think this is one of the most beautiful pieces you have written. As Tish says, it could be fantasy, but so clearly isn’t, as you haul up those steps 🙂 🙂 Such a stark contrast, that view! Thanks for making the climb for me (and for kissing the shark 🙂 )

😃😊😘Many thanks for all the love Jo and for sailing over 1/2 way around the globe with me. Hard to believe we’ve been traveling together virtually since January 2015 when you were in Portugal and I was in New Zealand #antipodes. Its been a pleasure journeying through the blogosphere together ever since. Hugs from Grenada.

New Zealand is still a dream destination for me. Maybe even Fiji. But only in my dreams. Hugs lovely lady 😍💕 xxx

You will get to both. I feel this to be true

PS – Thank you so much for sharing this story on Twitter. Greatly appreciated.

Jean says:

Wonderful reading and the photographs make me so happy. The whale shark video was amazing
and I am green with jealousy

Thank your for coming through to the blog with so much love. Wish you and Snaggy had been there with me. Really hopeful Genevieve can join us in Colombia …we’d have a blast!

I’ve been waiting for this post on Saint Helena and it’s amazing!

The photos and videos are fantastic – I’d love to have snorkelled with those sharks – so beautiful. How clean and clear is that water…lack of humans may be the reason. 😉

How lovely are you to have been awaiting this post?! #very. Delighted that you liked the visuals. I hope that you have a snorkel with whale sharks in your future (and that I have another one). I think that cruising has ruined me. Finding Grenada ‘too civilized’ and longing to venture far off-the-beaten-path again.

Cruising does spoil you as we tend to find the most pristine remote or untouched places – it’s hard to go back to the ‘norm’.

Tara Dolan Wright says:

Lisa – I will probably say this after each post I read — your writing is so gorgeous; your pictures are spectacular. You words and images have opened up the whole world to me. Such glory everywhere.

Gosh, I miss you. Thank you as always for your endless love and support. The world is a glorious place indeed. I hope one day we get to explore a bit more of it together someday soon.

Susi says:

Damn, I love your blog. You guys are experiencing life on this diverse planet. And I love how you are so scrappy at sea, but still relish a hot shower and Queen’s accommodations ❣️ My alohas to to you and the captain 🌴

Ahoy from Grenada Susi!

Captain Fabiolous finished his circumnavigation aboard Amandla with our arrival here. Am blessed to be sailing with him. He has made this an adventurous yet comfortable and safe voyage satisfying both the scrappy and Queenly sides of myself. Any interested in coming for a sail in the San Blas? I love that you love my blog. Always a pleasure to see you here.

Saint Helena seems like one of those places straight out of a history or pirate novel. The view from up top would have been incredible.
I’m glad they have rules about interacting with whale sharks. It makes for a more pleasant experience for all concerned and ensures we respect our aquatic friends and environment. Maybe that was a thank you kiss?

A pirate’s novel indeed. That is exactly how I felt when visiting there. I would love to see St. Helena’s views through your lens. I have just finished salivating over your post on Le Mont Saint-Michel and silenced me with your mastery.

Fantastic ‘kiss and tell’ reporting, Lisa.😅 Loved the video. St Helena looks like a beautiful island and with so much history too. Congratulations on climbing Jacob’s Ladder and what a great view from the top. Was the descent more difficult than the ascent? I always find coming down steep steps is hard on my knees. Glad you enjoyed your taste of civilization for a few days. What luxury it must have been to sleep in a stable bed. Did you still feel as though you were at sea for a while? I so enjoy reading of your adventures. Smooth sailing to you and the captain. 😘

Uphill is my strong suit but I struggle with descent every time. I felt no pain going up Jacobs Ladder, but down was killer on the knees. A hike up Table Mountain earlier in the year felt far more challenging than ascending Jacob’s Ladder. But at Table Mountain, we took the Tram rather than the trail down and I felt no pain afterward in Cape Town. Fast forward to ST. Helena and it tool a few days to recover from the descent down Jacobs Ladder #killer.

It always takes me a bit of time to regain my ‘land legs’ when we come into a port and St. Helena with its rolling anchorage made that even more so. I wobbled quite a bit as we made our way from the boat to the hotel the first time, but I was fully recovered by the time I lay down in that comfy bed in the evening :-).

I am so happy to have met you here in the blogosphere. I wish we’d had the chance to walk the beautiful shores at uMhlanga together but it is nice to visit there again through your lens. Maybe we will get a chance to meet when we bring the boat up Florida way. Hugs from Grenada.

Going down hill or down stairs puts far more weight in one’s knees than climbing up, so it can be a challenge. I also took the tram down Table Mountain. I intend to keep my own knees intact if possible. So many of my friends have had knee replacements. 😳
Enjoy Grenada and safe onward travels, Lisa. We’re here for another ten days before driving up to Johannesburg to spend a few days with our daughter who will be back from Ireland next week. Then it’s on to England to see more family, including my fabulous MIL. 😘

Enjoy your time in Jo’burg with you daughter. Looking forward to seeing your fabulous MIL.

Wow, amazing. 🙂

Awwwww 😊, thank you Drake! Delighted to see you here.

What a truly magical place! I imagine that the residents are perfectly OK with the difficulty outsiders have getting there. Throngs of tourists flooding these streets would be heartbreaking. Fortunately, it seems that Mother Nature has had the last word on that subject. I would love to be able to swim with (and be kissed by) those magnificent creatures. I saw your reply to Terri… I’ll definitely join the two of you in La Paz… just tell me when! I couldn’t help feeling a little sorry for the Emperor of France; after spending so much time finding the perfect location for his final rest, someone felt it necessary to move his bones back to France. Not nice at all. Anyway, as always, I was thrilled to see a new posting by you. Your descriptions and pictures were well worth the wait.

Its a date! A girl’s weekend with the La Paz whale sharks is in our future …although it may be a year or three before I can get myself there. Watch this space.

PS. What is the news with you?

What an incredible island, Lisa. This is where you get me jealous! Being able to explore a place this remote with so much history and wildlife, a place so unique and little visited, to be able to intermingle with the locals and the thrill to even get ashore. Fantastic!

I’m glad you climbed the ladder as well and decided to stay on shore for a few days to leave that crazy ocean be. Of course, as you already know, snorkeling with the whale sharks would be my all-time high! I like how you tied the entire Napoleon thing into your story as well. I bet St. Helena ends up in your top five, now that the circumnavigation is completed. 🙂

Well, maybe you will be able to join Janis, Terri and I for a whale shark snorkel when I find my way to La Paz!

Am having trouble coming up with that ‘Top 5’ list. We’ve just seen so much awesome out here on the high seas. One that would certainly be on the top of the top list is The Gambier …and not just because we met you there.

PS. I’ve rounded 360 degrees of longitude but still have to cross one of my outbound wakes (most likely Panama) to complete my circumnavigation.

Ah, what an experience swimming with, AND getting kissed by a whale shark. The video footage is fantastic. It felt like I was right there. Well, at least as close as I ever want to be. 😉 I love your photographs of St Helena. It is a place that has always fascinated me, and I got very excited when Michael was offered a space on one of the boats that participated in this year’s Cape Town to St Helena Yacht Race. Unfortunately he couldn’t go, so my dream of flying in to meet him was dashed. Well, at least for now . . . Your post made up for that disappointment, Lisa. Thank you.

I hope that Michael has another opportunity to do a Cape Town to St. Helena Yacht Race in his future so you both get to visit this remarkable place in person. Thank you so much for all the love. Always a pleasure to see you here.

I trust we will, Lisa. So lovely to explore places with you I may never visit, and see those places I’ve visited through your eyes. A real treat!

What a delightful post Lisa. Some of the buildings are well-know through photographs, but the layout of the island is quite unexpected. I don’t think I would take a 6 hour flight from Capetown in an Embraer. 🙂
And why are the inhabitants called the Saints? (Or did I miss that?)
I imagine your are now at your next destination, the island of… Ooops. Tip of my tongue. Take good care of yourself.
B.

Ahoy from Grenada! Delighted that you enjoyed my take on Saint Helena. The Saints are so called because of their friendliness and commitment to protect this beautiful the island and her inhabitants.

A nice “nickname”. Not many peoples can compete for such a name. And yes, I liked your post very much, despite the wretched historical content the name “Sainte-Hélène” may mean to the French. 🙂
Fair winds.

rxfrazier says:

Andrea said for me: wow, wow, wow! What a terrific adventure and fantastic post. Thank you.

Thank you and Andrea for reading the post and for the very kind feedback, Rawls. Always a pleasure to see you here. Ahoy from Grenada

Extraordinary Lisa. Not much more to say beyond that. Everything you do is so incredible. Wow. 🙂

Ahoy from Grenada, Nicole. Thank you for all the love on my blog this morning. The feeling is mutual 💞

Amy says:

The video is incredible! Good to know that Whale sharks are harmless.
Beautiful views you have captured, Lisa. A long stairway to climb, stunning views up there. 🙂
Thanks for the post!

Delighted you enjoyed the whale sharks and the views Amy. St. Helena packs a lot of punch for the small space it occupies on this globe. Thank you for your visit and kind feedback.

Bama says:

There’s something alluring about remote islands where you can only see water as far as the eye can see. To me Saint Helena, the Azores, Easter Island, the Banda Islands in eastern Indonesia are some of the places that fit into this category — I’ve only been to the last, but my two-week stay there still is among the best travel experiences I’ve had so far, which makes me curious about other far-flung islands.

I am with you on the allure of remote islands and long to add the others from your list to my ports of call. We almost sailed to Easter Island but the winds were not favorable so we needed to continue onward to The Gambier Islands. I had so wanted to go to your beloved Banda, but The Captain’s cancer treatment had us cut our journey short and we sailed through Indonesia from Timor westward. The Azores is in every sailor’s soul. All these places beg for a victory lap and when I go around again, I will travel armed with your delicious Spice Odyssey . If you had an ebook version of it, I’d scoop it up in a minute.

Natalie says:

Such a beautiful post with stunning photos, Lisa. It’s an experience of a lifetime to be kissed by a whale shark. Jamestown location is beautiful and hats off to you for conquering the 699 steps. The steep climb at many sights around the world is one of the reasons I want to explore a place sooner rather than later, before any knee pain or mobility issue occurs. I’m late commenting after being away for two weeks. Thank you for sharing your incredible journey with us.

I have ‘whale shark fever’ after the experience in St. Helena. So much so that The Captain and I have rethought our plans and have changed our destination to La Paz to have another swim with them in 2020. My long term goal is to get to Alaska and then down to Canada so maybe we will have a chance to meet you in person if you find yourself down Vancouver Island way again when we sail there. Thank you for traveling along with me Natalie and for your enthusiastic feedback.

Whoa. That’s my comment the entire time I read your post. Whoa. What an incredible experience with the whale sharks. A love affair begun! And I enjoyed reading the history of St. Helene, and Napoleon’s forced refuge, and what it all looks like now. Fascinating.

Delighted that you enjoyed the post Pam. St. Helena packs quite a punch for such a little island. I just wish we’d lingered longer. Thank you for traveling with me here.

LOVED the trip!

All I knew of St Helena was the Napoleon was exiled there. Your post makes it sound very interesting — but I wouldn’t climb those 699 steps of torment either! And what an incredible whale shark encounter, wow.

Ahoy there Karen. Lovely to see you here. Apologies for my delay in responding. I was sailing from Grenada to Bonaire when you left your note. As you were able to ascend the rigging on Lord Nelson, I think those 699 steps of torment would be a walk in the park for you.

What a lovely trip around St Helena and no less an informative write-up of the town and its history, Lisa. Wow The Captain did get close to the whale shark, and they all looked like such a friendly bunch. Small town with a small airport with flights twice a week weather permitting…guess they like to keep things quiet and simple in this modern day. What a climb but what a view indeed at Jacobs Ladder. You look like you are having such a good time with those stairs 😛 Mr Wobbles and clan wave you on to your next sailing adventure <3

Does Mr. Wobbles snorkel? I’m certain that this whale shark pod would have loved to smother him in kisses. I know I would. I miss that little cheeky monkey. Hugs from Bonaire. Can’t wait to explore the waters here.

Mr Wobbles says he doesn’t snorkle. He is happy to stay dry on the boat and wave at the passing sea creatures 😛 We hope you have the time of your life exploring Bonaire <3

Well the sea creatures wish he was waving to them from right now from Amandla’s bow #someday

ninazee78 says:

Well it was a first kiss worth waiting for Lisa! I am sure at the time the hike up the stairs was a bit of a pain but wow that view was so totally worth it!!
To be honest, Napoleon would have said he did everything right. I don’t think he thought he did anything wrong. Such an ego. Too bad he missed out on that amazing opportunity. 😁
Thank you for this great post!

Thank you for joining me virtually in St. Helena. The hike up Jacob’s Ladder has become my benchmark for assessing hike difficulty. I have yet to find an ascent as difficult. Amazing to think that runners from around the world compete annually for the best time up the steps. I believe that Graham Doig’s record has held since 2013 (5 minutes, 16.78 seconds); it took me far longer. But it was worth it, and I feel lucky to have been able to experience it.

I really enjoyed your post and the pictures were amazing. About 5 years ago, I also swam with whale sharks. It was an unforgetable experience and it sparked my love for whale sharks.

I am delighted that you enjoyed the post and even more so to know that you had the good fortune to swim with whale sharks. Your adventurous spirit will take you far.

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